how does my grow flow

im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
hello all, I didn't see a place that says "introduce yourself" so maybe here is as good a place as any

I am new to this forum and hadn't been on forums they've always made me paranoid ..lol

I run dtw in rockwool using 2 dosatron injectors

2 30 gln tubs that make about 4000 gallons of fresh dtw nutrient

no air stones, no pumps other than the well pump no need for root disease additives like hygrozyme, sm90, or h202

roots as white as my teeth on the day of harvest

no ph adjustments

I set it up and really don't have to look at it again for the entire 12/12 run

I feed the same nutrient ratio from start of 12/12 to finish... no flush needed

I don't ever need to flush since I feed a low EC there is no need
In my experience flushing is only needed if your over feeding

if the humidity is in range or low I drip 1 minute every hour I feed EC 0.9 from start of 12/12 to finish
if its high humidity or if im worried about mold I can reduce the drip to 1+ minute every 2 hours if I raise the EC slightly to 1.0 or 1.1

I never need to flush... my waste samples test EC 0.9 to 1.0 start to finish

the smoke is very smooth and great flavor

if memory serves for flower I feed something around

N 70
P 65
K 130
Mg 40
S 42
Ca 85
Chl 12

I prefer the high P formula compared to the low P high S option

I have done it both ways and in my experience the high S affects the flavor of the finish product and the high P does create firmer buds so I personally do not follow the new trend of low P feedings

without co2 I yield about 1.5lbs in a 4x4 tray with a 1000 watts (62 watts per sq ft)... if I raise the watts up 75watts per sq ft I can get 2lbs with some strains

so in my experience, an extra 15watts per sq ft will increase yield 25%

fan control box I use the sentinel evc-2
which is bar far supior to any other ive seen and its not much more expensive than the others..well worth the extra few dollars

I do also have an igs co2 controller and I burn propane for co2 in the winter
I have had both of these units for a loooong time and they both still work like brand new
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
I'm extremely impressed at your in depth knowledge of nutrients and dosing.

Do show us more!
Click to expand...
thank you but
dont be too impressed

I screwed it up a bit at first
I got most of what I learned about nutrient ratios from 1 book but I ready it front to back several times over several years

I started in ebb n flow but was always fighting soggy medium = root disease
no matter what I used I could finish a plant 10 weeks into flower without the roots going brown toward the end

eventually I switched ebb nflow to drip to reduce resevior size
then I read about some guys using raw salts and realized if I wasn't spending so much on the name brand nutes I could easily go dtw and still save

at first it seemed hard but after I got my mind around it I realized its actually very very easy
I have the excel format (its floating around) that does the math I just have to plug in the correct % for each nutrient
I also compare that result to hydrobuddy which is another format that will do the math

there are many who are real masters at it.... I am not a master but I hope to get there

I started with a large 300 gln holding tank or resevior and would mix dry salts in the tub to my desired EC and let them dtw
but I was replacing pumps and fighting warm or cold water temps depending on the ambient temp
and air stones for a tub that size
cleaning the 300gln tub was a bitch lol

eventually I saved up and got the injectors... money well spent!

I can let plants go 12 weeks into flower and have roots as bright white as they where in early veg
 
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im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
im4satori said:
View attachment 3435845 View attachment 3435845
Click to expand...
in this pic you can just see the 2 blue dosatron injectors behind the plants... the water line has a standard outdoor irrigation valve that you would use in an outdoor irrigation system for your yard.... I plug the irrigation on off valve into a c.a.p. 1 min interval timer which you can also barely make out in the pic

if someone had a large garden or a green house this system could be set up to irrigate different zones by adding additional on of valves

but I only run 9 to 18 drip stakes under a 4x4 tray so a batch of salts last a long long time

if theyre small I can pack 1 per sq ft but usually I put 9 per sq ft after a couple weeks under t5

if i go 9 plants i use the 6" cubes if i have them.... but 4" will work

i double stake each plant just in case a dripper clogs

but with these filters and this set up i have yet to have one clog

they clog more often with a recirculating tub

oops the pic didn't follow... im speaking of the first pic i posted

i will provide better pics of the set up soon
 
guerrilla medic

guerrilla medic

Well-Known Member
this is a pretty nice write up you've done here. nice pics. i hope you don't mind a few questions. where are you ordering your salts from? what micros and amounts are you using? are you using any fulvic or enzyme products in conjunction with your feeding? what is your early and mature veg ec?
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
guerrilla medic said:
this is a pretty nice write up you've done here. nice pics. i hope you don't mind a few questions. where are you ordering your salts from? what micros and amounts are you using? are you using any fulvic or enzyme products in conjunction with your feeding? what is your early and mature veg ec?
Click to expand...
the micro info I will get back to you

i get my salts from a few places..
. first i get what i can local from the farmers co op calcium nitrate and if im feeling brave they are willing to order the mpk

i get my magnesium sulfate from the grocery store (Epsom salt)

most everything else i get from
https://customhydronutrients.com/zencart/monopotassium-phosphate-c-1_45_61.html?zenid=rs9q39rogghuo6glk5212cc4j7

my EC in veg is about 1.2

i don't use fulvic or kelp or aminos in my drip system
it gets everything nasty clogs drippers and promotes root disease in rockwool
if i was in coco or soil i would consider it since microbes play a roll in those mediums but it is my experience rockwool is better suited for a sterile environment with no organic materials

hydrogen peroxide is about the only additive i consider adding to my roots but i only have a need for it in a recirculating system

you can get the benefits of foliar feeding your kelp and aminos
i get those from

kelp4less.com

and there kelp works much better than anything you buy bottled off the self and its a fraction the cost
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
those pics are all you need to mix 5 gallons part A and B of concentrate

lets use the veg for example;

I do this for a friend its not difficult

looking at the pics I posted the veg mix is for 4000 gallons

fill 2 five gallon buckets up 1/2 way with hot water

label each bucket veg A and veg B

add calcium nitrate, magnesium nitrate, potassium nitrate and iron to bucket A
(I do it slowly over a few days allowing each to have time to dissolve before adding the next)

add the mono potassium phosphate, magnesium sulfate,, potassium sulfate, potassium chloride and the balance of the micro nutirents (not iron) to bucket B

so all my nitrates and the iron in bucket A and everything else in bucket B

after about 4 or 5 days of sitting and shaking buckets one time a day its ready

5mls of bucket A and 5mls of bucket B should yield about EC1.2

and the 5 gallon concentrate should make about 4000 gallons of solution
 
im4satori

im4satori

Well-Known Member
for flower concentrate I do the same thing

so you have 2 buckets part A & B for veg
and 2 buckets part A&B for flower

the flower mix is about EC 1.0 for 5ml part A and 5ml part B
 
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