Organic Feeding 101.

testiclees

Well-Known Member
I just do them twice per flowering, three times if you count coco-water.
I do very, very little to the plants when they flower, just let them go to town, I've found the more I interfere, often the less I get.
And honestly it's not like overnight you see huger trichome development, it very well could be in my head, but I don't think so.
Along with my compost, my homemade EWC, and all the other weird things I do, it very well may be solely because I wanna believe that i'm unique.
But considering that, I've grown the same clone-only strains that everyone else does, and when they smoke mine, they literally accuse me of growing a different strain, that's happened with the blue dream, purple paralysis, and the jack herer.
SO maybe? Maybe not? But I have a lot of other "hair-brained" growing techniques

Sprouted seed teas.
Ive used sst's for a while to speed up veg growth. Just recently i read a hyroot post where using sst straight through flowering is suggested. I tested it out weeks 5-10 flowering and it seemed to bring on the frost. The first few times i mixed it with a ~25ppm.agsil solution..Those particular applications seemed to elicit the most pronounced response.

Those buds are about to be harvested. They are impressive. Ill likely post a pic when i chop.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Those buds are about to be harvested. They are impressive. Ill likely post a pic when i chop.[/QUOTE]
my experiences as well, i also prefer it over coco-water because coco-water is loaded with potassium, my soil has enough of that, and I've slowed flowering due to too much potassium before..
Yrs ago when i thought BSM was a miracle bud-developer.. :wall:
 

testiclees

Well-Known Member
Those buds are about to be harvested. They are impressive. Ill likely post a pic when i chop.
my experiences as well, i also prefer it over coco-water because coco-water is loaded with potassium, my soil has enough of that, and I've slowed flowering due to too much potassium before..
Yrs ago when i thought BSM was a miracle bud-developer.. :wall:[/QUOTE]
Ya i grow with docs brix kit. i avoid k as much as possible. That includes zero use of ordinary garden compost. I do grow red worms and feed em scraps of mj and other selected appropriate grub.

I used the agsil at the super low rate because i was showing a bit of k deficiency.
High k, to some, is equated with lower quality and lower nutritional density.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
my experiences as well, i also prefer it over coco-water because coco-water is loaded with potassium, my soil has enough of that, and I've slowed flowering due to too much potassium before..
Yrs ago when i thought BSM was a miracle bud-developer.. :wall:
Ya i grow with docs brix kit. i avoid k as much as possible. That includes zero use of ordinary garden compost. I do grow red worms and feed em scraps of mj and other selected appropriate grub.

I used the agsil at the super low rate because i was showing a bit of k deficiency.
High k, to some, is equated with lower quality and lower nutritional density.[/QUOTE]
no garden compost?!
well.. shit.. that's one of my secret weapons....
pure humus and composted amendments... and bazilions of worms
 
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testiclees

Well-Known Member
Ya i grow with docs brix kit. i avoid k as much as possible. That includes zero use of ordinary garden compost. I do grow red worms and feed em scraps of mj and other selected appropriate grub.

I used the agsil at the super low rate because i was showing a bit of k deficiency.
High k, to some, is equated with lower quality and lower nutritional density.
no garden compost?!
well.. shit.. that's one of my secret weapons....
pure humus and composted amendments... and bazilions of worms[/QUOTE]


Ya it seems counter intuitive but based on soil analysis, compost (depends on source) is gonna bring up the K. In high brix style the Ca is way higher and K is kept to a minimum.

This is not something everyone subscribes to but it embodies the mineral ratios advocated by Reams, Albrecht and others. They base their approach partially on brix readings. Soil analysis is an essential starting point when taking the high brix path.
Compost is nearly always too high in K. Also overly abundant organic matter does not sustain the correct environment for sufficient microorganism processing of soil minerals.

Im not an expert on this school of thought. There are loads of interesting reads onlins regarding high brix. John Kempf, a frequent ACRES contributor, has some youtube talks on the topic. He is well respected by farmers in my neck of thewoods.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
grease monkey you forgot FAT :)
yeaaa... not totally sure on using that, but i know you say you have great results from it... And i respect that, for sure.
my issue is two things
One, if i do cook bacon (mmmmm) i use the leftover grease to fry me up some eggs (pancakes made with bacon grease? Yummmm)
And Two...
my dog is spoiled... i started drizzling a speck of bacon grease on her dry dog food and she went nutso over it..
So yeaaa...
not any extra really...
plus we have mountain lions around here... like literally photographed ON our mountain, paw-prints and all...
My dog is a pitbull but she is only about 50lbs, and mountain lions are ambush predators.. if they can kill a 150 or 200 lb deer in one bite, they can kill a pitt.
I don't know if i could literally survive if my dog was killed by a cougar. She's my best buddy.
just look at her..
 

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greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
no garden compost?!
well.. shit.. that's one of my secret weapons....
pure humus and composted amendments... and bazilions of worms

Ya it seems counter intuitive but based on soil analysis, compost (depends on source) is gonna bring up the K. In high brix style the Ca is way higher and K is kept to a minimum.

This is not something everyone subscribes to but it embodies the mineral ratios advocated by Reams, Albrecht and others. They base their approach partially on brix readings. Soil analysis is an essential starting point when taking the high brix path.
Compost is nearly always too high in K. Also overly abundant organic matter does not sustain the correct environment for sufficient microorganism processing of soil minerals.

Im not an expert on this school of thought. There are loads of interesting reads onlins regarding high brix. John Kempf, a frequent ACRES contributor, has some youtube talks on the topic. He is well respected by farmers in my neck of thewoods.[/QUOTE]
hmm, that's interesting.
To make my compost i use probably 75% leaves, 24% redwood pineneedles, and the remaining one percent is the goodies.
fish bone meal, neem meal, shrimp meal, crab meal, kelp meal, LOTS of alfalfa (i use it as my N source to activate the thermophilic breakdown)
Hmm lets see what else... oh, minerals, langbeinite, greensand, a lil leftover azomite.
Fresh bull kelp right from the beach...
It's the best stuff, at least for me, it fixes damn near everything.
hell even a compost tea knocked back my mites a lil bit too, course that could be just from spraying them, but either way.
not to mention a compost tea will erase powder mold too, works like magic there.
I honestly wish i started composted back in the 90s
I'd be the grow maestro if had.
 
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mouse1818

Well-Known Member
Organic feeding provides great results. A good organic grow starts with the soil. (look at subcool's section on that. he knows soil.) Im going to go over strictly what to do once the plant is in the dirt, and you still need to feed them something. Feeding the plants the right stuff is key to successful grows, and knowing what to feed and when, is needed for every grower.

If your plant has some sort of issue, theres threads on that https://www.rollitup.org/marijuana-plant-problems/488004-guide-nutrient-deficiency-toxicity.html . this thread is gonna cover what do to AFTER you notice a deficiency, or just to keep a healthy garden. this will be using only organic nutrients. Ive purchased bottles of guano, and molasses and wondered... what now? well this is what now.

**note: most of these teas/mixtures involve some mixing, but a lot of wait time. this is to fully let the properties of the substance combine with the water, and for microbial activity to start. Do not skip the waiting**

Vegetative Teas:

Worm humus:
Origin:this mix is produced from the excrement of worms. they ingest organic material and you end up with this. The best quality of worm humus is going to be from the Californian worms.
Provides: water soluble, and boosts microbes in the soil
Preparation: In 5 liters of water, add in 400gr (about 2 cups) and let it sit for 2 days. stirring every so often to keep it well mixed and the water somewhat oxygenated.
Application:During the watering, mixing 1 part of poo-juice with 3 parts water. you can add this in weekly.

Blood Meal:
Origin: After removing and drying blood from animals(usually in a slaughterhouse), it is ground up into a fine powder.
Provides about 12-15%N, 1.2%P, and 1%k
Preparation: in a container, add 1 part blood meal to 9 parts water. cover. over 1 week, open to burp the mix, and stir. after, filter with coffee strainer.
Application: Applying usually only when N deficiency is noted, add to water to create a 10%-25% strength solution.

Gypsum
Origin: CaSO4. Its a rock basically, you can find it naturally outdoors, or (probably easier) at a local plant shop.
Provides: Activates healthy microbial activity. Corrects salinity (toxic salt levels). Provides sulfur, calcium and potassium. Regulates pH, and most importantly, helps in the absorption of N.
Preparation: add 1 pound of gypsum powder (use a mortar and pistil if its too coarse) to the inside of a nylon stocking, or other fine screen material. place this inside a container with 5L of water. Cover. leave for 1-2 weeks, opening the container to stir briskly every few days.
Application: Add it in with the water when pH is unstable, max 10% strength (so dilute it!). dilute it to 5% if mixing it with a N tea, and can be used weekly.

Fishmeal
Origin: obtained from dried, ground fish.
Provides: 8%N, 7%P, trace elements.
Preparation: mix 10% of this powder with 90% water in a container. leave it a week covered, and opening it to burp out the gas (dont breathe it in, smells). Filter at the end of the week.
Application: Dilute the mix, 1part fishgoop with 10 parts water. add in weekly with the feedings, or when a N/P deficiency is noted.

Bat Guano
Origin: decomposed bat poo. preferably pasteurized (since bats can and do carry disease, like rabies!)
Provides: High in N, but also contains P and trace elements. Fresher guano has higher N rating
Preparation: 2 tablespoons of bat poo in 4 -5 liters of water. let sit for 1 week
Application: mix the finished poo water, 1 part to 3 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

Mixed Teas: This is ok for veg + flowering.

Compost Tea (one of my favorites, as i use ground up male plants, or the sticks/stems/fan leaves of the harvested females for this)
Origin: The easiest to come across commercially, or to make at home. this is used worldwide with a variety of ingredients.
Provides: A big boost of microorganisms, helps feed the plants, and boosts a plant's immune system. NPK ratios vary depending the type of compost made.
Preparation: Place a bunch of dead plants in a nylon stocking or screen, put that inside a bucket with about 15L of water, adding water as it evaporates (which means leave it uncovered). after 2 weeks, dump the inside of the bag/screen/stocking back with the rest of your compost pile outside or throw it away or whatever.
Application: If you want to foliar feed this, filter it well, then 1:8 ratio of tea to water. otherwise, just add it in when watering, at a 1:5 ratio. use it every 2 weeks.

Alfalfa Tea. (can also be used during flowering)
Origin: your rabbit's food. this is ground up alfalfa, leaves, stems.
Provides: 2.5%n, 5%p, and 2%k.
Preparation: grabbing a nylon sock and filling with 1 part of the alfalfa, setting it into a bucket with 10 parts water. leave it for a week to create a strong tea.
Application: use every 2 weeks, diluted 1part tea with 10 parts water.

Manures
Origin: the business end of various animals.
Provides: This really depends on what the animal ate, and what the animal is. Rough estimates are:
Cows: .6%N-.3%P-.3%K
horse: .6%N-.6%P-.4%k
Rabbit: .5%N-1.2%P-.5%K
Sheep: .8%N-.5%P-.4%K
Pigs: .6%N-.6%P-.4%K
Preparation: 1 part crap to 10 parts water, in a bucket. 2 weeks, stirring periodically. (again, this is better for the nylon stockings, otherwise your gonna have to filter it - yuck)
Application: 1 part poop water to 1 part water. can be used every 2 weeks.

Fruit tea, with or without Molasses.
Origin: made with fermenting fruits. its recommended to add molasses for flowering.
Provides: Rich in NPK, but also contains calcium and some other trace elements. Very rich in microbial activity. Using molasses adds a large amounts of carbs and can contribute to fungus (in high heat grows)
Preparation: Cut fruits into small pieces. place in a container and cover them with molasses( OR cut up fruits, place into a ziploc bag with NO molasses or air) Let it sit for 2 weeks, opening it periodically to let out gases. filter.
Application: 1 tablespoon of fruit rot juice (ew) to 1 liter of water. use it every 10 days.

Flowering Teas:

Banana Peel Tea.
Origin: Bananas. Cheap to make. eat the banana, use the peels.
Provides: Strong Potassium Boost. ideal for flowering.
Preparation: after selecting 4 bananas, and eating the insides, place the 4 peels into a pot, with 4 cups of water (1L). You can also add in 2 tablespoons of molasses. Bring to a boil. let boil for 5 minutes. remove the peels. let cool. place in jars for storage.
Application: mix this 1 part banana goop to 2 parts water. use every 2 weeks.

Sea Weed
Origin: algae or kelp, dried, ground into a powder.
Provides: Lots of K, and trace elements, aminoacids, vitamins, hormones.
Preparation: 100grams of algae powder + 2Liters of water, let sit overnight.
Application: mix 1 part of sea weed juice to 3 parts water, and apply during waterings. can be used every watering.

Paper Ash tea.
Origin: This powder is obtained from burned paper. make sure the paper has no pigments (inks), glues, adhesives, or plastic covering. just plain paper. the cheaper the stuff, the better.
Provides: 5% P and 2% K
Preparation: Burn the paper fully. Ground up the ash. 100g of ash mixed with 2 L of water. let sit 10 days, then filter.
Application: use every 15 days, mixed 1 part ash juice to 2 parts water.

Bonemeal
Origin: Bones, crushed, ground up.
Provides: some N (3%?) and around 7% of P. high in calcium
Preparation: cook in a pot for 10 minutes, 200grams of bonemeal with 6 liters of water, and 1/2 cup of baking soda. let cool, then remove any grease that may have formed at the top. filter the rest of the mix.
Application: Use 1 part bone water to 3 parts water. use it at the start of the 12/12 cycle, or the start of flowering. will last the entire grow.



if you guys have other recipes, post them on here!
What would be a good simple veg tea to help my plant grow more?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
What would be a good simple veg tea to help my plant grow more?
alfalfa, kelp and molasses.
OR fish hydrosolate, kelp meal, and BSM.
OR comfrey tea.
BUT before doing any of this make sure you NEED to feed, more often than not it's not a deficiency that slows growth, usually its other things
 

mouse1818

Well-Known Member
alfalfa, kelp and molasses.
OR fish hydrosolate, kelp meal, and BSM.
OR comfrey tea.
BUT before doing any of this make sure you NEED to feed, more often than not it's not a deficiency that slows growth, usually its other things
I just want to give my plant a boost in veg it seems like its growing slow maybe I'm under watering? I water it every other day with 15 fluid ounces. It dries out pretty fast now.
 

Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
What would be a good simple veg tea to help my plant grow more?
urine :)

Grease i here yeah on mountain lions / Cougars and although people tend to think pits are tough
a cougar will lick it up in a heart beat hell a full grown bald eagle will take out a pit in a second ..
to combat Cougar problems you need one of these :) 270 pound monster with a stronger bite force then a lion one killing machine head the size of a Grizzlies
 

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mouse1818

Well-Known Member
urine :)

Grease i here yeah on mountain lions / Cougars and although people tend to think pits are tough
a cougar will lick it up in a heart beat hell a full grown bald eagle will take out a pit in a second ..
to combat Cougar problems you need one of these :) 270 pound monster with a stronger bite force then a lion one killing machine head the size of a Grizzlies
Its interesting you say urine because in my organic gardening book says urine is high in nitrogen although it has to be composted first.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
urine :)

Grease i here yeah on mountain lions / Cougars and although people tend to think pits are tough
a cougar will lick it up in a heart beat hell a full grown bald eagle will take out a pit in a second ..
to combat Cougar problems you need one of these :) 270 pound monster with a stronger bite force then a lion one killing machine head the size of a Grizzlies
I totally agree on the urine.
ANND holy shit man... that dog would cost me more than my rent in food alone!
That thing would EAT my pit...
Shit i would be afraid to go to sleep next to that thing...
Fun-fact.. did you know that the german shepherd has a bite force THREE times the PSI that a pitbull does?
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Its interesting you say urine because in my organic gardening book says urine is high in nitrogen although it has to be composted first.
Absolutely not true, a bladder full in a five gallon bucket is THE best fast acting nitrogen supplement.
If you ARE having a nitro def, you'll see a difference in about two to three days with urine.
Just make 100% SURE it is a nitro def though.
And maybe pop a couple mulitvitamins about four hrs prior too...
Neon-glow-in-the-dark urine...
From what I've researched, @ a dilute rate of 12/1 its roughly a 14-0-0 nutrient.
So sorta around the same as blood meal.
 

mouse1818

Well-Known Member
Absolutely not true, a bladder full in a five gallon bucket is THE best fast acting nitrogen supplement.
If you ARE having a nitro def, you'll see a difference in about two to three days with urine.
Just make 100% SURE it is a nitro def though.
And maybe pop a couple mulitvitamins about four hrs prior too...
Neon-glow-in-the-dark urine...
From what I've researched, @ a dilute rate of 12/1 its roughly a 14-0-0 nutrient.
So sorta around the same as blood meal.
Yea I had a mag def so I probably wont use urine.
 
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