Issues with the Organics, PIX

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
it'll make you so happy to see them all get better at once. i'm happy for you, thinking about how worried i was until I switched to a plant food with Mg. After that, everything was great.
 

Seamaiden

Well-Known Member
it'll make you so happy to see them all get better at once. i'm happy for you, thinking about how worried i was until I switched to a plant food with Mg. After that, everything was great.
:lol: Ok, cee, so if I prefer to feed via roots, how would you mix it up?
 

kirby

Well-Known Member
Foliar feeding is the recommended, and best way to solve nutrient deficiencies, especially for Mg since it takes the plant a few hours to suck up and use the nutrients compared to the few days it takes roots to do the same thing. However, you have super organic plants with mycorrizahe wich is like superman living in your soil, so you can water it in I suppose. You can even mix some molassess into the foliar feed mix, it will give it a good boost of micronutrients, NPK, and the molasses will act as a chelate as well which will allow the plant to make more and easier use of the nutrients it receives.

If you want to water it in, use a rate of 1 TBS Epsom Salt / Gal
 

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
hmm. lemme check resources.

RIU stickie sez 1tbsp / gallon for roots, 1/2 tsp / quart foliar. I've never used Epsom personally.

If you haven't since you potted them, I'd take a couple and give them a good flush and then follow with a soil feed of Epsom. If that does the trick, you're $.
 

organick

Well-Known Member
I have not seen dolomite lime mentioned once during this thread.

dolomite lime has both mg and ca. Should be in soil first, if not put in areated tea or top-dress with compost and lime pre-agitated/soaked for about 20min.

Watch overwatering.
 
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LiveVibe

Well-Known Member
Fulvic acid or humic acid should help the plant and soil digest the fertilizer better. Stuff like Liquid Karma and Diamond Nectar or FulMag should have micro-nutrients in it too. I know Karma does but looks like nute burn to me (really jungle green dark leaves are a big sign). You can get Fe-Mn-Zn supplements from Down to Earth fertz. PEACE.
 
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Seamaiden

Well-Known Member
I have not seen dolomite lime mentioned once during this thread.

dolomite lime has both mg and ca. Should be in soil first, if not put in areated tea or top-dress with compost and lime pre-agitated/soaked for about 20min.

Watch overwatering.
Interesting, I used to use dolomite instead of crushed coral in my saltwater or alkaline freshwater aquariums. :) What sort of dosing rate would you recommend? I've seen it at the garden center, I know it's available.
 

Seamaiden

Well-Known Member
Fulvic acid or humic acid should help the plant and soil digest the fertilizer better. Stuff like Liquid Karma and Diamond Nectar or FulMag should have micro-nutrients in it too. I know Karma does but looks like nute burn to me (really jungle green dark leaves are a big sign). You can get Fe-Mn-Zn supplements from Down to Earth fertz. PEACE.
More so that the mycorrhizae and other microbes I've been dosing with? I have two sources of live mycorrhizae, one wet, one dry, and the mulch I used also has mycorrhizae.
 

HookedOnChronic

Well-Known Member
also wondering about my plants, they are slowly yellowing

im using organic nutes(raingrow) and have only used once (july 25th) put a cap full into a 1l bottle and watered the plants

could it be nute burn? or just a lack of something
hope u dont mind me askin in here SMaiden:peace:
 

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Seamaiden

Well-Known Member
I don't mind, but I really don't think that's fertilizer burn that you're looking at there. Can you get a good close up of the affected leaves?
 

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
also wondering about my plants, they are slowly yellowing

im using organic nutes(raingrow) and have only used once (july 25th) put a cap full into a 1l bottle and watered the plants

could it be nute burn? or just a lack of something
hope u dont mind me askin in here SMaiden:peace:
if they were yellowing before you added nutes, it's not nute burn. like SM sez, post closer pics of the affected leaves.
 

Seamaiden

Well-Known Member
On a side note (or to get back on topic), last night I applied a middling solution of the Epsom salts. I wasn't sure if I should use your recipe, or Kirby's, so I decided that since he'd just used it with good results, but that I didn't want to go overboard, I would meet in middle. I used 4 teaspoons Epsom salts mixed into 2 liters water (it was supposed to be a 1/2 gallon, but I found a little weed and got stoned while I was measuring, passed the 1/2 gallon mark), along with my seaweed extract (they actually list the exact genus and species used, I so dig that). I applied it to three plants, and then this morning decided to put it on all of them.

So, we shall see! I assume I'll need multiple applications, and then I need to figure out how to address the issue long term. I'm thinking the dolomite mentioned above would be a good way to go, and top dress it in.
 

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
Dolomite lime in my soil was not enough to stem Mg deficiency.

I would just include epsom salts as part of your regular watering regimen, keeping in mind that it too will contribute to salts that will need flushing regularly.

As far as foliar feeding being faster - it is, but not that much. If you're ever seen an underwatered plant revive within tens of minutes of watering, you know that water travels quickly into the plant.
 
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ceestyle

Well-Known Member
I mix my soil with something like 2 tbsp per gallon of soil, or 1 tbsp per gallon of my Happy Frog, which already has some in it.

The faxt is that pot needs lots of Mg.
 

Seamaiden

Well-Known Member
Dolomite lime in my soil was not enough to stem Mg deficiency.

I would just include it as part of your regular watering regimen, keeping in mind that it too will contribute to salts that will need flushing regularly.

As far as foliar feeding being faster - it is, but not that much. If you're ever seen an underwatered plant revive within tens of minutes of watering, you know that water travels quickly into the plant.
Completely understood and agreed. I don't have to flush so much now, because The Man set me up with the cannibalized Mr. Clean carwash kit ionizing filter (don't think it actually ionizes, but it brings down the tds significantly). Based on this knowledge, and not wanting to overwater, I think I will combine waterings with foliar feedings, then, along with a good top dressing. :D
 

ceestyle

Well-Known Member
Completely understood and agreed. I don't have to flush so much now, because The Man set me up with the cannibalized Mr. Clean carwash kit ionizing filter (don't think it actually ionizes, but it brings down the tds significantly). Based on this knowledge, and not wanting to overwater, I think I will combine waterings with foliar feedings, then, along with a good top dressing. :D
Sounds good.

I still think flushing every other week or at least every month is a good idea, and certainly can't hurt. It helps to have fast-draining amendments in your soil, however, like perlite.

It's not just the TDS in your water that need to be flushed; it's the salts formed by the counterions of the nutrients your plants need. For example, MgSO4 leaves behind SO4 when your plant takes the Mg. It sticks around in increasing quantities for all the Mg your plants use. As you accumulate the sulfate, it binds to other counterions, such as Ca, Mg, Zn, Mn, whatever. They are there, but bound species - this is what a nutrient "lockout" is. It's there, but your plant can't use it...
 

kirby

Well-Known Member
Wait what?! You used 4 TBSPs? Did you water it in or foliar feed, and how many tbsp / gal did you do ?
 
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