My First Outdoor NW

Jalepandro

Jalepandro

Active Member
atvman84 said:
hows your grow going?
are you doing anything outdoors, or is washington to wet/cold for outdoor?
Click to expand...
They are doing well. I am a medicinal patient well within my legal limit. I am glad to be able to cultivate my own remedy, ya digg?
This is actually my second time Growing.

First time:
3 gallon and 5 gallon pots
Popped about a dozen bag seeds in some branded "organic" soil mix under the sun. Watering when needed.
Only used Fox Farm Tiger Bloom every other watering once flowering occurred.
Once they were about a foot tall, I force-flowered 10 of them early by manually hauling them around every day. This was to avoid the dreaded rainy season. Unfortunately, mold was still an issue I had to deal with :/
Used a soap and vinegar solution once to combat pests.
Flushed the plants prior to harvest.
Final harvest yield was smaller than wanted, about four ounces of dried medicine.
I had a couple plants thrive and a couple plants struggle along.
I also admittedly got a little impatient right before harvest, so I need to be more patient now. It should help a lot.

Second Time:
All 3 gallon pots
Growing some clones in a greenhouse this time, a much better climate with no rain! :D
(And that is my answer to TheGoldenGreenThumb's question above me, the best place to grow in the pnw with consistently good weather is a greenhouse, because our weather is bullshit from September to April.)
Using a branded "organic" soil mix under the sun.
Watering when needed.
Using Fox Farm Grow Big every other watering during vegetative growth.
Will also use Fox Farm Tiger Bloom every other watering during flowering growth.
I am not forcing any of them to flower early. I want them to have a long vegetative cycle in their greenhouse.
Using Azamax solution to combat pests, spider mites are a much bigger problem now than they were.
I would really like to upgrade my soil on my next season, and of course sanitize the bloody greenhouse!
I also need larger pots! I want to do less plants that are much larger next time.
 
Last edited:
calicocalyx

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
You don't need a greenhouse, although they can help. That plastic holds moisture in as much as keeps it out, and with our damp night air a plastic cover only buys you so much time once the skies turn gray. Having the right strains is just as important as any other factor. Proper thinning, bud structure, preventative spraying, are important to avoid mold. As you noticed the mites are worse in a greenhouse, PM will likely be worse due to low airflow. I say if no rain is on the horizon, leave them uncovered for as long as possible. And of course the bigger the pot, the bigger the plants, the longer veg, bigger plants. What clones are you growing?
 
A

atvman84

Active Member
calicocalyx said:
You don't need a greenhouse, although they can help. That plastic holds moisture in as much as keeps it out, and with our damp night air a plastic cover only buys you so much time once the skies turn gray. Having the right strains is just as important as any other factor. Proper thinning, bud structure, preventative spraying, are important to avoid mold. As you noticed the mites are worse in a greenhouse, PM will likely be worse due to low airflow. I say if no rain is on the horizon, leave them uncovered for as long as possible. And of course the bigger the pot, the bigger the plants, the longer veg, bigger plants. What clones are you growing?
Click to expand...
what is -thinning- actually? what do you do, trim fan leaves?
 
calicocalyx

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
Many plants put out more fruit/flowers than can actually mature. This is to ensure that some offspring can make it. So professional fruit growers ect... prune off unnecessary fruit/flowers so that the plant can focus on what will mature. With the herb, thin off anything that is in the shade. I keep the outer 15 inches or so of canopy. Cut off anything that won't stretch out into the light. If you do this throughout the growing season, you are forcing the growth hormones to go to just the places that you want and not just all over. By thinning out the inside of the plant you also help air to flow through the middle of the plant helping to dry it out and preventing PM and mold. These plants can handle rain even when they are budding, the trick is getting them to dry back out. Also by topping aggressively you end up with many more buds that are smaller than if you let the plant just grow naturally. Many times when you find the mold, it's in the big dense beautiful top nugs. harder to dry out. I'm talking about shoots/branches being trimmed not just fan leaves.
 
calicocalyx

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
Also keep in mind that the sun moves in an arc and drops to the south as the season progresses. So the canopy is more of a sphere rather than a flat top, like you would have indoor
 
calicocalyx

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
@oragrow, that DK is getting tall, it'll probably be well over that fence if you don't try and spread it a little. Looking good though. @atvman84, plants look good, I'd thin some of the inner/lower stuff and of course top em. That is I would actually spread them wide first, then thin and top.
 
Jalepandro

Jalepandro

Active Member
Hello, calicocalyx :)
I am actually using a brick and glass greenhouse structure, rather than a PVC and plastic setup.
The rain hasn't really been an issue for me, the greenhouse is solid as far as that is concerned.
The humidity has definitely been spiking from time to time these last couple of days though. There is a window opposite of the door, so I've been leaving them both open to get some fresh air flowing.
This being my second grow and with a new strain, I want to see how she behaves with different methods:
I've left some of the plants completely untouched except for removing yellowing leaves. These plants look very "natural" and "wild" to me. They appear to be focusing on growing outward now, producing better branching throughout the plant.

I've topped some of them, and they are definitely bushing out much more. They are not as tall, but they look like little bushy balls of leaves that have a lot of new growth sites.

On some of them, I've just cut off the bottom-most branches and trimmed off all of the small growth on the bottom half of the branches. These plants have thicker growth near their tops, and have a lot of open area in their core for air and light.

On the plants that I am topping and pruning, I am also removing any leaves that prevent light from reaching lower growth. Mostly fan leaves at nodes that already have a lot of growth.

I'm not too comfortable posting pictures. I mean, I would love to share. I'm just not sure how safe it is.
What are you growing?


PS: I actually did post pics of my last grow before I moved, so you could scope that out in my post history. It was in a subject on the climatization of strains through seed generations, in order to make them adapt to our limited summers.
And I will subscribe to this thread :D
 
Last edited:
A

atvman84

Active Member
yeah i have trimmed off some fan leaves on the sour boggle, because there is so much over growth that air/light cant penatrate through, im gonna trim them. Man the plants sure are taking a beating in this heat, it shows from damage :(
goodluck to you all.
 
A

atvman84

Active Member
calicocalyx said:
Many plants put out more fruit/flowers than can actually mature. This is to ensure that some offspring can make it. So professional fruit growers ect... prune off unnecessary fruit/flowers so that the plant can focus on what will mature. With the herb, thin off anything that is in the shade. I keep the outer 15 inches or so of canopy. Cut off anything that won't stretch out into the light. If you do this throughout the growing season, you are forcing the growth hormones to go to just the places that you want and not just all over. By thinning out the inside of the plant you also help air to flow through the middle of the plant helping to dry it out and preventing PM and mold. These plants can handle rain even when they are budding, the trick is getting them to dry back out. Also by topping aggressively you end up with many more buds that are smaller than if you let the plant just grow naturally. Many times when you find the mold, it's in the big dense beautiful top nugs. harder to dry out. I'm talking about shoots/branches being trimmed not just fan leaves.
Click to expand...
yea iv delt with many giant buds full of mold before :( :( its costly to grow thats for sure
 
A

atvman84

Active Member
oragrow said:
Update pics, plants in sun, most of my pic have been morning.
Planted a dk clone, just to see how it finishes.
in the family pic,
front left, snowdog ,
right front looks like a hungry plant , afghan black domina skunk. give it some fish fert.
right rear afghan black domina skunk, side view, that plant reaches from the snowdog to the path.
What do you guys think of these plants. Do I need more stakes? are my plants a mess?
Give it to me straight.
Click to expand...
the middle pic is my favorite :cool:
 
A

atvman84

Active Member
calicocalyx said:
I spray an hour or so before direct sun, in the morning. Do it a few days in a row and you should knock that stuff down. Many of the oil based stuff works well but not 100% unless you get a little relentless. I like to rotate organocide, nukem and azamax for both bugs and PM prevention. Morning spray is better than evening spray simply cause they can dry out a little quicker. Stay on it now, so that you don't have it in the buds later. And you don't want to spray buds and risk mold.
Click to expand...
Adding Nukemx on top of been using, The plant doctor, wont hurt the plants from to much of the product on them? or should you wait untill the other drys off? thanks
 
calicocalyx

calicocalyx

Well-Known Member
I don't know about mixing sprays, I wouldn't. But that nukem says you can apply multiple times in one day, in fact that is recommended for treating russet mites. Just change what your spraying and maybe back to back days or something
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top