JimmyIndica
Well-Known Member
I would rec par38 3000K and no CO2 for u.What kind of light bulb should I use? I'm going to be using a clamp lamp. Also is Co2 needed?
Thanks!
I would rec par38 3000K and no CO2 for u.What kind of light bulb should I use? I'm going to be using a clamp lamp. Also is Co2 needed?
Thanks!
Is it a flood light? Cuz there's one with a 120w but I'm not sure what a rec par38 3000k isI would rec par38 3000K and no CO2 for u.
So I'd need more then one? I'm going to a hydro store to check out some local stuffamazon has decent ones.phillips/GE/Sylvania I would say 1 is = to 75watts hps. I would rec making sure you have adequate exhaust when using a bunch together? After I said all that! I would really look into a quality LED with adequate Module cooling?
For that price he could buy a dimmable 600 watt ballast, cooltube, and still have money left for a centrifugal fan.. Way too much overhead for something that's supposed to get him started.Ive been looking at bulbs for ya and found one I would buy if I was looking in that direction. Its on amazon Osram Sylvania zelion 17PAR38HL/25NFL/P3 for 54.99. I would say 4 those cover the area.,200bucks
I am trying to get him to buy200watt vero29 3500K for every 2x2,I don't rec him usin par38 but I did find a good one.For that price he could buy a dimmable 600 watt ballast, cooltube, and still have money left for a centrifugal fan.. Way too much overhead for something that's supposed to get him started.
Look into cmh man
Care to elaborate on "You can run timerless and use a loop or bell siphon to run the pump continuously but that has it's own failure points as well."Honestly, a recirculating ebb and flow is going to be subject to many of the same hassles as a regular DWC. But with the added drawback of possible timer failures. You can run timerless and use a loop or bell siphon to run the pump continuously but that has it's own failure points as well.
If you're dead set on an ebb&flow. Use the smaller of the two containers as your rez so that you can't overflow the plant chamber in the even a timer fails on or the siphon fails. If you can get a second reservoir, I'd recommend going drain to waste style. Then you can just top off your nutrient res and drain the waste res. No need to monitor pH or PPM swings quite as much.
Danner mag drive pumps are great for this application, I think the 190 or 250gph model would be more than sufficient for your setup.
As far as nutrients go. Start off simple and use the lucas formula. It's cheap and effective. I don't recommend playing with additives/bloom boosters/snake oil until after you've gotten a few good runs in with lucas in order to establish a reliable baseline.
Drysalts are tempting, but require a bit more precision. Down the road this is a good cost saving measure but can be a headache for a newbie.
Care to elaborate on "You can run timerless and use a loop or bell siphon to run the pump continuously but that has it's own failure points as well."
I always had an idea kinda like a toilet flush kicking around in my head if it could be balanced where once the pump fills up the tray and overflows it would close off the suction and empty the tray