Help please with insulation

[CanadianONE]

Fiberglass deffinately cuts down on sound but there are better choices if all your looking for is sound deadening.

 

[Rrog]

Unfortunately that is wrongo bongo. That is not a double leaf wall. It is a single leaf container.

See my previous post. Also Google IR761 and IR693. Those are the raw lab reports. Parse the data and look at transmission loss below125Hz. Fiberglass wins

Lab data is so much better than a carnival show, wouldn't you agree?

 

[CanadianONE]

Your a little more technical then I am lol I am only going off personal experience with products I have used for interior wall/ceiling sound deadening insulation. From all the products I have used the best performer (tested by human ear only) was the Roxul Safe & Sound while using risiliant channals to isolate the drywall from the joists to stop as much sound transfer through the structure.

 

[New guy joe]

Ok so I've been doing a lot more research and I'm very concerned with drywall and mold, will a panda film be enough to avoid this.
Is there an alternative to drywall I can use for sheeting on top of the foam pad??

 

[Carolina Dream'n]

R13.

 

[New guy joe]

Insulation from outside elements won't effect the moisture coming off the plants Carolina, not to mention water run off or a possible splash from a bucket.

 

[jijiandfarmgang]

I'm no expert but I have done this. 2x4, fiberglass and vapor barrier are all common things you can pick up anywhere and are as cheap as your going to get doing it an acceptable way. No special equipment needed.
I was very happy with sound deading and happy with insulation.

I never did the floating floor, but wished I would have.
I also wished I would have done surface mount emt conduit for electrical, no big deal though.

Personally I would do drywall. Some people put osb or plywood behind it everywhere to make it easy to hang things from, but you can just put in a couple horizontal 2x4's in where you plan on hanging stuff.
Look into a good paint. Search the forum, I've asked/talked about this before.
Remember drywall is freakin sweet for its fire resistance.
Like I said the sound deadening properties of fiberglass was awesome, I've never had a room with no window until then. But I spoke with contractors about sound deading, you can even do double drywall, or a party wall (how hotels are built) but I think its way overkill.

- Jiji

 

[New guy joe]

Would a water barrier primer like kills work on the dry wall?

 

[New guy joe]

I'm not concerned about sound, just worried about mold.

 

[CanadianONE]

I'm not concerned about sound, just worried about mold.

http://www.homedepot.com/s/mold%20drywall?NCNI-5

Top four results on that page are a great choice. Use a mold resistant drywall & make sure to use a good kitchen & bath paint which will also help resist mold.

 

[New guy joe]

Ok so here's the outcome of all this info,
Framing 2x4 and OSB
Foam spray for cracks and crevices
R-15 foam pads,
Line with 6mil poly eurathane
Do drywall
Paint with vapor resistant primer
Line with panda film

 

[Rrog]

Framing the studs at 24" would give you better sound isolation.

For what it's worth, using heavier materials will be better for soundproofing. Drywall is better than plywood, but you can't screw into drywall worth a shit

 

[New guy joe]

Sounds isn't an issue since this is outside, locked and legal.

 

[Rrog]

Just sayin

 

[CanadianONE]

Ok so here's the outcome of all this info,
Framing 2x4 and OSB
Foam spray for cracks and crevices
R-15 foam pads,
Line with 6mil poly eurathane
Do drywall
Paint with vapor resistant primer
Line with panda film

You only need the 6 mil vapor barrier if you are using a batt type insulation (Fiberglass etc) With the foam board you just want to make sure you tape any seams to stop air from passing through.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/TYVEK-HomeWrap-2-in-x-164-ft-Installation-Tape-D13841470/100422453

 

[adower]

Frame with 2x4. Use r/13 insulation. 6 mill barrier. Osb. Paint the osb with killz or similar mold inhibitor and hit with a high quAlity flat white paint. Caulk all seams to make sure its air tight.

 

[jijiandfarmgang]

My friend did his whole garage osb. Detached ofcourse, I doubt if code would even allow it if its not. It burned fast.

- Jiji

 

[New guy joe]

Haha sounds sketchy.
Well I got all the parts list and it's a little over my original modest estimate. About 350$ per room.

My carpenter friend will be helping me put it together in about a week and a half. The great thing is we're going to build the room separate so when I move I can transport them into a garage.

I'll post pics for everyone when it's all done.
Very happy with my planning. Total costs of my operation has been so low I can't ask for more.

Total room building materials and soil -700$
Nutrients -$120
Exhaust fans x2 (440 cfm)and a carbon filter- 220$
A/c 6inch blockbuster hoods and ballast 1000w x2- 200$
Hps + mh 1000w bulbs $120
Timers, thermostats, monitors, hooks- 200$

1580$ total.

 

[countrypickle]

Once u got the 2x4 framed and the osb on.. All u need is foam board on the outside.( seal all seams with a few cans of great stuff, If u use the extruded poly (heated and pressed ..not little styrfoam balls) it serves as a vape barrier in itself.. the great stuff ( someone referred to earlier) over all seams and imperfect cuts will seal up the rest.
To cover it ( on the cheap but still effective AND weather resistant), use corrugated plastic sheets.(or wait till elections are over,,lol thats wut all those election signs are made of ).Drywall isnt a very good idea on either side of the framing if this is going outsdie( u defiently will need mold resistant drywall if u do), With the temp canges between inside with the lights/plant etc and the changes outside in the tent u will defiently have condensation areas.. to avoid..stick with foam..less on the sound but more on the safe side. I may be wrong ,but thats what I would suggest...

 

[CanadianONE]

Once u got the 2x4 framed and the osb on.. All u need is foam board on the outside.( seal all seams with a few cans of great stuff, If u use the extruded poly (heated and pressed ..not little styrfoam balls) it serves as a vape barrier in itself.. the great stuff ( someone referred to earlier) over all seams and imperfect cuts will seal up the rest.
To cover it ( on the cheap but still effective AND weather resistant), use corrugated plastic sheets.(or wait till elections are over,,lol thats wut all those election signs are made of ).Drywall isnt a very good idea on either side of the framing if this is going outsdie( u defiently will need mold resistant drywall if u do), With the temp canges between inside with the lights/plant etc and the changes outside in the tent u will defiently have condensation areas.. to avoid..stick with foam..less on the sound but more on the safe side. I may be wrong ,but thats what I would suggest...

All you need to seal up the seams is house wrap tape over every seem, Unless its a wide gap then a little great stuff spray foam works great. If you cut the great stuff at all it removes the skin and therefore has no vapor barrier properties anymore.