Oh my the frosty is coming in nicely things are looking amazing so glad this system is working out for you sure there will be bugs in a beta but once you iron them out this will be a well oiled machine great job can't wait to see them in full swell mode it's going to be unrealChapter 3 Update
Day 63
Flowering Day 30
Things are going great still. The girls are really starting to put out some flowers. I am very impressed with all 3 HSO strains so far. Not too much to say for this update so here are some pics.
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Hey cc,Sounds like a Plan HdS, been thinking about 8th side, would be a pain, but like you say means less Plants Alternating Water direction if not...hmm No way to Raise up Octagon? so you could crouch under slightly. ..
How You gonna hang the bulbs next time(still Vertical i know)..what about one of these.. ..
Of Course You wouldn't have the Reflector on, for 360 spread..but you could blow cool air through from the bottom and out the top Hanging it Vertical as You have the bulbs anyway... just an idea, you won't burn yourself or plants.. just a thought, though you do lose they say about 10% of Lumen output..what ave you from using a CoolTube..
atb
I'd like to avoid using that for the mentioned 10-15% loss. I don't think I'm going to have any problems with heat...particularly as I enter the fall and early winter months for the next go around. These things are great, conceptually, but I've taken enough light readings now that I just don't think I need it.Sounds like a Plan HdS, been thinking about 8th side, would be a pain, but like you say means less Plants Alternating Water direction if not...hmm No way to Raise up Octagon? so you could crouch under slightly. ..
How You gonna hang the bulbs next time(still Vertical i know)..what about one of these.. ..
Of Course You wouldn't have the Reflector on, for 360 spread..but you could blow cool air through from the bottom and out the top Hanging it Vertical as You have the bulbs anyway... just an idea, you won't burn yourself or plants.. just a thought, though you do lose they say about 10% of Lumen output..what ave you from using a CoolTube..
atb
I could certainly raise it up. I'm currently using cinder blocks for the feet to rest on and they are 16" tall. I could another 1/2 block...don't see any problems doing that.Sounds like a Plan HdS, been thinking about 8th side, would be a pain, but like you say means less Plants Alternating Water direction if not...hmm No way to Raise up Octagon? so you could crouch under slightly. ..
How You gonna hang the bulbs next time(still Vertical i know)..what about one of these.. ..
Of Course You wouldn't have the Reflector on, for 360 spread..but you could blow cool air through from the bottom and out the top Hanging it Vertical as You have the bulbs anyway... just an idea, you won't burn yourself or plants.. just a thought, though you do lose they say about 10% of Lumen output..what ave you from using a CoolTube..
atb
I've put some thought into that and the best I've come up with is to make the octagon in 2 parts. The 2 parts would have have to operate independent of one another. Separate feed lines, separate drain lines, etc. Not a biggie and can certainly be done. The biggest risk for me now is in how the thing is constructed. With no framing, I just would not feel comfortable doing this. The octagon is stable but I don't know how well it would move...there is risk of it tipping over. To put the thing on wheels and make it so it could open and close...I would really need to frame out a skeleton for it.Could you make it a clamshell and have it on wheels? Then you could open it to work on it and close it for operation.
This would work...almost like a cave door feeling. Speaking to the directional water change...the only reason I wanted to avoid that was due to leveling issues. The current setup is not 100% level and when the water moves in both directions, I lose the ability to shim a side. But yes, perhaps the compromise is exactly as you said. Good idea and thanks.Hot Diggity, I have a different idea for the eight side. If you change directions between the bottom and second to bottom (and the second and third tube if you don't mind the extra direction change / loss of planting space) you would have a mini doorway. You would have to duck, but not crawl.
I know this is old, but I'm just seeing this....I'm so glad I found this thread. I can't believe the strain I was going to use (critical kush) was one of the lowest yeilders! I'm also starting a sog , and Ive did a bunch of research on the best dense single cola strains with highest yeild, and I thought ck was a win!....that just goes to show, no research or recommendations or verbal reviews are better than an actual visual grow review from seed...I really appreciate this yeild comp....the funny thing is, northern lights was my initial pick based on it being one of top 3 favorite tasting buds. But I chose ck based on what I've read. Glad I saw this before I actually started everything. Lol.Summary Results
Average Yield across 27 plants and 18 strains: 12.1 Grams. If we exclude the G13 that was taken early due to nanners, the average becomes 12.4 grams
Smallest Yield: Early G13 @4.8 grams. If we exclude her, smallest was 5.4 grams followed by 8.5 grams.
Largest Yielders: 20.6 grams, 19.9 grams and 18.1 grams.
8 were 14 grams or more.
9 were 10 grams or less.
10 were between 10 and 14 grams
I've come up with a clever solution for this (maybe). I have not decided the exact orientation but here is an example of how each row would end and then transition to the next row.Thanks, glad to help. If you are going to put in dams at the end of the levels like Sativied said a while back, you should be able to decline each whole section more. Levelling might still be a pain, but should make it a little easier to avoid spots that aren't flowing
Yup, Chapter #1 was done under a single 600 Watt. Almost entirely with a metal halide! Chapter 2 was also done under a 600 until the very end when I brought a 2nd 600 on board. Dont' pay chapter 2 any attention...it was a colossal failure. This current chapter started out with a single 600, then moved to a single 1000 and is now (2) 600's.I know this is old, but I'm just seeing this....I'm so glad I found this thread. I can't believe the strain I was going to use (critical kush) was one of the lowest yeilders! I'm also starting a sog , and Ive did a bunch of research on the best dense single cola strains with highest yeild, and I thought ck was a win!....that just goes to show, no research or recommendations or verbal reviews are better than an actual visual grow review from seed...I really appreciate this yeild comp....the funny thing is, northern lights was my initial pick based on it being one of top 3 favorite tasting buds. But I chose ck based on what I've read. Glad I saw this before I actually started everything. Lol.
P.s. hey and just to be sure, this was all done under 1x600w light???
Yeah, I've only read chapter #1, but I am reading the rest as we speak. Its a long thread, but very worth it.Yup, Chapter #1 was done under a single 600 Watt. Almost entirely with a metal halide! Chapter 2 was also done under a 600 until the very end when I brought a 2nd 600 on board. Dont' pay chapter 2 any attention...it was a colossal failure. This current chapter started out with a single 600, then moved to a single 1000 and is now (2) 600's.
Regarding all of the data I collected from Chapter 1...you have to take all of that with a grain of salt. I did not have a large enough sample size of any strain to be able to make definitive conclusions. Maybe Critical Kush is a rock star strain and I just got unlucky with a dud. The exact opposite happened with Chronic Thunder. I got 2 killer plants, invested a ton of money in more Chronic Thunder seeds only to learn that the strain is total shit...I must have gotten super lucky with the 2 seeds I had originally.
But hey...glad you're here and pull up a chair!
Those look like they would be easier to deal with than your current elbows.I've come up with a clever solution for this (maybe). I have not decided the exact orientation but here is an example of how each row would end and then transition to the next row.
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So I'll have a little bit of flexibility regarding how deep the water can be before it escapes. I actually somewhat disagree with @Sativied on this one (Probably the ONLY time I've ever disagreed). Had I run dams or something along the lines of this in the current setup, it would have been terrible...possibly catastrophic. I keep coming back to the leveling issue. If the thing is not perfectly level *and* the water is bi-directional (which is exactly what I have at the moment), I'll have a section (or an entire row) that is downhill and the water stays shallow. Once it hits the next row though, the water is now travelling the opposite direction...uphill. The bottom portion of the tube with water running uphill is that the depth is very deep. My current octagon is only out of level a small amount but the effect is dramatic. On downhill runs, the water is perhaps 1 inch deep...no more. On the uphill, it gets as high as about 3 1/4" deep in places. This has led to a few problems. The most obvious...possible overflow. When I connected a 2nd feed line to increase the flow rate, these high spots overflowed almost immediately...not good.
So there next pictures are the basic 3 options that I'm looking at:
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The 1st and 3rd option allow me to keep the water flowing in the same direction. Picture 2 would be alternating. Alternating would take up less space and allow for a few more plants. It would also allow me to make the transitions on the 8th side and leave room to walk in. Options 1 and 3 would not.
Yeah, for sure. It's too late in the game for me to try something completely new. I really would need to run small prototypes to figure that out. I'm going to stick with this for now, focus on keeping the water moving in a single direction and just suck it up and crawl under when I need to.You could run sprayers in the tubes and then you could have better control over water delivery.
If the hinge of the clamshell is strongly anchored, then you can open and close without any tipping issues. Your feed and drain lines could terminate at the hinge and join together with a T.