Cal def? Mag def? Help!

upinthesticks

Well-Known Member
So I have some outdoor and indoor at about same stage doing the same thing.

All was fine through veg, never worried much about pH, tested a few times but everything went smoothly.

Outdoor - Couple weeks into flowering I've had RAPID leaf yellowing/dying. Lost a lot. Also some brown spots but not terrible. Yellow thought whole plant, mostly bottom or middle, but spread out, not concentrated to one area. Pic shows the yellowing, some had already been cleaned off also.

Indoor - couple weeks into flowering I've gotta yellowing, and some pretty severe brown 'mottled' spots, some large fan leaves have been totally covered, and it is spreading fast. Leave that is partially covering bud shows some spots on end of leaf. This was when it was just starting. Can get better pics later if necessary without hps.

I have hard wAter. I tested a while ago came out around 200. Tested last night, 236 from the tap. I've watered with pH adjusted water starting about a week ago, hoping that clears it up. Problem is continuing though.

My best guess is magnesium def.. Does this make sense? If so, should I be adding Epsom salts? I hate to make the problem worse! Any help is appreciated.
 

Attachments

the plant as shown in the pot looks really nice. i would bump up the nitrogen amounts. the fan leaf pic shows calcium deficiency and it's hard to tell but maybe some mite damage.
Agreed, except for mite damage. Don't see it and wouldn't wish an infestation on my worst enemy.

The outdoor plant needs N, looks like a straight sativa, expect it to take forever to finish. Indoor is showing brown spotting: a classic Ca deficiency, adding epsom salts will make it worse as Ca and Mg antagonize each other.

What are you feeding these ladies?
 

hantastic1

Well-Known Member
Agreed, except for mite damage. Don't see it and wouldn't wish an infestation on my worst enemy.

The outdoor plant needs N, looks like a straight sativa, expect it to take forever to finish. Indoor is showing brown spotting: a classic Ca deficiency, adding epsom salts will make it worse as Ca and Mg antagonize each other.

What are you feeding these ladies?
agreed. more N for outdoor and just add a lil cal/mag for the indoor
 

upinthesticks

Well-Known Member
Thanks guys for the quick responses!

Agreed, except for mite damage. Don't see it and wouldn't wish an infestation on my worst enemy.

The outdoor plant needs N, looks like a straight sativa, expect it to take forever to finish. Indoor is showing brown spotting: a classic Ca deficiency, adding epsom salts will make it worse as Ca and Mg antagonize each other.

What are you feeding these ladies?
Feeding tiger bloom now, the other ones I have have outdoor started flowering, but these two like in the pic refuse! and giving them big bloom every now and then. This is a pic of the leaves off the same outdoor. I switched over to the tiger a few weeks ago, and had given them a dose of grow big afterwards because of the yellow. Should I just have stuck with the grow big on those two plants a while longer? All 6 are doing the same yellowing/dying leaves though.

The indoor I am just feeding tiger bloom as well.

Thanks so much for the help and feedback guys.
 

Attachments

upinthesticks

Well-Known Member
adding epsom salts will make it worse as Ca and Mg antagonize each other.
I meant to mention this in my last post... I've probably got bigger problems heading my way!! Before I had gotten responses, and after reading what was prob bad info.. I watered them with some Epsom salts. Outdoor did 1/2 tsp per gal and watered 6 plants with 2 gallons total. Indoor I did 1/2 tsp per gal and watered 6 with 1 gallon total. Hope I didn't just make everything worse! Ahh! Things can fall apart fast.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Your P&K maybe a little high inhibiting N uptake.....It will make extra N seem like you can't give enough to make a difference....No more high P&K bloom foods on this run.....Use something like a 3-1-2 ratio after feeding only N twice and see what that does....Most likely the yellowing leaves will not recover with the P&K high.....

Might check to see if you have tiny fliers that look like fungus gnats but smaller......Root aphids.....If you find them from putting out a yellow sticky trap...treat for the right away to save the run....

Doc
 

upinthesticks

Well-Known Member
Use something like a 3-1-2 ratio after feeding only N twice

Might check to see if you have tiny fliers that look like fungus gnats but smaller......Root aphids.....If you find them from putting out a yellow sticky trap...treat for the right away to save the run....

Doc
Thanks so much for the info, Doc! Do you have a suggestion for a good 3-1-2 product? Also, when you say only N, what would you use for that? The only high N product I have or have used is Grow Big.

I have noticed flies lately around the plants, definitely yes. But.. I thought that they were just the fungus gnats. I'll have to look more closely. I have Azatrol (or azamax? I forget, will look tonight)... Should I give them any of this if it is aphids? Thanks again for your help!!

Edit.. Is the azatrol safe for flowering ?
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Azatrol as a root drench (where the problem is) is hard on your plants....NOT very effective either!
Botaniguard is an organic insecticide that works. About 85.00 a pound and you can google that to find the best price.....Try Ebay too!

A systemic called "Orthene 97" and it's generic "acephate 97UP" work well too and faster....The thing is it's not organic and is pretty Aggressive....You should use each to be sure you kill off the infestation though! But, If I had to pick one to use only It would be the Orthene/Acephate I would get the powder form.....If I remember right the mix is about 18gr of the powder per gallon....Treat once and 7 days later treat again by pouring the insecticide solution into the soil around the plant to cover all the root area you can....Use as directed for fire ant mounds!

Good Luck

Doc
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Oh shit, I forgot....2-1-1 ratio will work too. Like Age Old grow (12-6-6) at half strength (organic)
Um Foliage Pro by Dyna gro is another real good one for this problem (synthetic).

Doc
 

upinthesticks

Well-Known Member
Azatrol as a root drench (where the problem is) is hard on your plants....NOT very effective either!
Botaniguard is an organic insecticide that works. About 85.00 a pound and you can google that to find the best price.....Try Ebay too!

A systemic called "Orthene 97" and it's generic "acephate 97UP" work well too and faster....The thing is it's not organic and is pretty Aggressive....You should use each to be sure you kill off the infestation though! But, If I had to pick one to use only It would be the Orthene/Acephate I would get the powder form.....If I remember right the mix is about 18gr of the powder per gallon....Treat once and 7 days later treat again by pouring the insecticide solution into the soil around the plant to cover all the root area you can....Use as directed for fire ant mounds!

Good Luck

Doc
Thanks so much. I will do some reading on the products you mentioned. Really appreciate the info, and your time!!
 

upinthesticks

Well-Known Member
No problem Bro!

I just came to conclusion in life...that it was time to share and be helpful.
Hell yeah man!! Now if only everyone had that same mentality, we'd all be better off. I like to help where I can, but growing is not my specialty........ Yet. Hopefully a few years down the road I'll be able to give sound advice, until then.. I'll continue to give thanks to people like you spreading the knowledge!
 

Po boy

Well-Known Member
I meant to mention this in my last post... I've probably got bigger problems heading my way!! Before I had gotten responses, and after reading what was prob bad info.. I watered them with some Epsom salts. Outdoor did 1/2 tsp per gal and watered 6 plants with 2 gallons total. Indoor I did 1/2 tsp per gal and watered 6 with 1 gallon total. Hope I didn't just make everything worse! Ahh! Things can fall apart fast.

no problem there, they'll just get greener.
 
Top