Does nitrogen hinder bud development?
- Thread starter Milovan
- Start date
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
It could yes. If you look at some diff brand feeding schedules you will see the N tapering off at the last month.
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
What does it do if you don't taper off the N?
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
They could remain in a veg state if too much N
theexpress
Well-Known Member
It causes leafier and fluffier buds....
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
What about photo period?
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
what theexpress said
It can cause it stress and be leafy and crappy. depends on enviro, etc
mr sunshine
Well-Known Member
Organic growers don't believe this at all..I see their point. Don't fall for the marketing gimmicks. Regardless what anybody says you don't need 40 bottles of different shit that's really all the same shit in small doses.. that being said I'm sure to much of anything isn't good..
qwizoking
Well-Known Member
in some strains it can take longer to flower. many equatorial strains will flower if n starts to dwindle. for some reason most dont recognize that cannabis is not an "obligate photoperidic" plant. in the same way sex is largely determined by environment even though we can create a large percentage of male or female seeds if so desired. the main issue with too much n is that it hinders the cure and can make for lower quality bud. it can be slightly leafier but overall flowering isnt effected. this is one of the things nature does right. the only person i know that advocates what you seem to be suggesting is uncle ben. if kiss is for you, like ben. nothing wrong with deciding furthering education isnt fpr you
Sativied
Well-Known Member
No. N is an essential element during the entire cycle. Based on 3-12-6 I'd be a lot more worried about a lack of N but don't know what's in your guano. Mine is 2-15-2 and 15 Ca which would totally fuck up my plants if combined with 3-12-6. Keep 'm green.
Fixed*.
And yeah, obviously N(ything) can be overdone. Won't by itself cause it to reveg though. That would be great, save me 12 hours of light for a few weeks...
Well... Yellow/light harvest can be dried faster without getting hay, foolproof, but proper dried (includes cure) green bud from a plant that has been kept healthy till harvest day results in better quality and quantity than anything else.
GOLDBERG71
Well-Known Member
I use dyna gro. The bloom lacks enough N. My leaves use to yellow to fast in the cycle. Homebrewer has a thread up on dyna gro that is worth your time to read. I'm mixing in floliage pro (9-3-6) with my bloom. To keep the leaves green. I haven't dialed it in completely. But that's what needs to be done. But to be clear I don't use anything other than DG so I can't tell you how it would effect the medium with bat crap.
420mon
Well-Known Member
Mon doesn't use bloom until week 4-5. Mon using npk of
15-16-17 and only adds a tad of hawwain bud n bloom npk of 5-50-17 WITH the same amount of 15-16-17 that mon used all through veg.
Not sure what it comes out to together but it keeps em green until mon tampers off last week with just plain water and molasses, then when some fan leaves start yellowing and falling off and mon choppy chops.
15-16-17 and only adds a tad of hawwain bud n bloom npk of 5-50-17 WITH the same amount of 15-16-17 that mon used all through veg.
Not sure what it comes out to together but it keeps em green until mon tampers off last week with just plain water and molasses, then when some fan leaves start yellowing and falling off and mon choppy chops.
Milovan
Well-Known Member
The guano is 10-1-1 and I add 1 tablespoon to 1 gal water and spread it out from there about
1 cup per plant every feeding and the plants are at 4-5 ft big. So far so good. Looks
like it's working fine just a little slow at bud development at the veg to bloom transition.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Sounds like all you need is a small dose of patience. If you added so much to cause negative effects they would/will not look "good/fine". Using high PK / bloom nutes isn't going to make them flower any faster.
1 tblspoon per gallon does sound like a lot compared to what I use but I'm not familiar with high N batshit. If your leaves get dark green obviously stop using it. I wouldn't add it till the very end either.
Helping good folks ignore parroted forum nonsense and biased perceptions from folks who don't know what makes a plant tick.
MjMama
Well-Known Member
I was picturing a Jamaican dude talking.... pmsl
topcat
Well-Known Member
In my experience, trying to keep the plant green with added nitrogen stimulated leaf. Trichome covered leaf, but that's not what I was going for. Yellowing fan leaves are natural, just like a lot of other foliage at this time of year turns all colors. Timing "the fade" is important and I want to eliminate as much nitrogen from the plant before harvest. I want that green to fade. Nitrogen contains magnesium, which is the culprit of the "bite" you sometimes get. It's a delicate balance to give enough N for the plant to thrive but not be detrimental. Experiment and observe.
MjMama
Well-Known Member
Ive found if you stop feeding N before they finish stretching the plants will yellow hard too early and run out of steam. But you don't want too much in the last few weeks either. It's a balancing act.
I typically feed a good amount of Nitrogen until they finish the stretch in early flower. That's when they need it the most. Then around now when they're finished with upward growth I let off the high N amendments. Logically they don't need as much N now that they aren't producing new fans. The amount in your bottled stuff should be great for the last month or so I would imagine. Then flush the last two weeks.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Indoor this "problem" does not have to exist. Indoor growing is not about mimicking outdoor.
Of course not. What you probably heard/read is that chlorophyll contains at the center an Mg atom with bunch of N elements around it.
"Magnesium has an important role in photosynthesis because it forms the central atom of chlorophyll"
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_deficiency_(plants)
It's the Mg atom that gets excited by photons hitting it. Yellow/light leaves suck at photosynthesis, THE energy source, producing THE nr 1 building block for plants, including bud.
http://science.howstuffworks.com/dictionary/plant-terms/chlorophyll-info.htm
"Chlorophyll is the molecule that absorbs sunlight and uses its energy to synthesise carbohydrates from CO2 and water. This process is known as photosynthesis and is the basis for sustaining the life processes of all plants."
Yellowing leaves reduce transpiration, respiration, and pretty much every important process that if ran optimally would result in the higher quantity and quality genetically achievable.
Hence why pro farmers use chlorophyll meters...
Etc.etc...
Exactly. Switching to bloom products low on N early is a common cause for premature yellowing. The chlorophyl production is not finished in a fully grown leaf either, it's a continues process.