8 CXB3590 SCROG

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Half way done with the new room. All I need now is panda film, to cover the inside. I had some spare black film sheets, which I used to cover the outside. Had a test run, for light leaks and there was none, Completely spot on dark.... Carbon filter coming in next week, and so as the panda film. Once they arrive, Ill cover the inside, then I have to put some wires in there, and see if I need some ventilation in there. I might have to get a filter for the intake, so no bugs or dust can get inside there.. After that, I can then start moving in the plants to the new room.
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Finished with the flowering room. Tried to remove my main plants into the new tub, but the root are too heavy to lift them without breaking them. So I left them in there original tub.
All I need now is to install my exhaust fan with its carbon filter, and add some fans inside & intake.

Inside temperature are now 25C/61% Humidity. Currently I'm at the start of 2nd week of flower. Plants have already shown its pre-flower.
 

bruce786

Well-Known Member
Hey when will you be uploading pics? I think I'm about 3 days ahead of you 12/12 wise. Would be good to see if we share stuff we notice with the cobs.

Thanks
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Hey Bruce786,

Here some picture. Just finish installing the carbon filter, but I don't have a intake yet.
Temperature inside are at 21C/64% Humidity.
Its pretty cramp inside, I built the flower room to be, 5.24ft x 5.24ft. Sorry about the photo quality. Using a phone to take them. Also I don't have much room inside to move around and take a good shot of the whole plant. But I can tell you its pretty packed inside there.

In two weeks, you guys will have a better picture. These were pop at May and about 3 month veg or longer.
 

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CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
Already got a potentiometer on it, but SupraSPL or someone can't re-call who, said it safer to add a resistor on it, when lowering the light output to a minimum.
@stardustsailor has a thread HERE about dimming functions of meanwell drivers. Probably where you seen the resistor trick from. Theory is that dimming lower then 10% might not be good for the drivers so add a resistor so that when potentiometer is fully counter clockwise you never drop below 10%
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Temps at night with light off were at 18C, seems a little cold for the plants with exhaust fan on.
With lights on and the exhaust on, temp raise by .1C pretty slowly. 18c to 19c took like 2 hours, with lights on. So I turned off the exhaust, now currently the room temps is at 21.7C @ 73% humidity.
With exhaust on, it reduces my humidity to 55%-65%. Today, I will wait for couple of hours, to see how high the room temps gets to, with the light on, and no exhaust fan running. Then I'll turn on the exhaust fan, to see if it will keep my temps stable, with the humidity dropping.

Found two bugs, and killed them. I swear they were lady bugs too, couldn't risk it though. However, I will have another inspection and take a picture for you guys to check if they're ladybirds. If so, I will let them roam around my plants. 99% they were lady bugs. Too bad I didn't take a photo on them before I squished them.

“Many cultures believe that ladybirds are lucky. Killing one is said to bring sadness and misfortune. The nursery rhyme ‘Ladybird, ladybird, fly away home’ encourages children to catch the beetles and blow them on their way in return for a wish. It is thought this was a way of getting the children to disperse the beetles amongst the crops to destroy pests and avoid famine.”

I killed two.
 
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BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
I found a dead one, best shot I can take at the moment. I try to find a live one next time, did some research on this bug. Does it look like a varied carpet bug instead of a ladybug?

My arms are going to get bigger from me, climbing up into that square entry/exit point to my grow area.
 

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CanadianONE

Well-Known Member
I found a dead one, best shot I can take at the moment. I try to find a live one next time, did some research on this bug. Does it look like a varied carpet bug instead of a ladybug?

My arms are going to get bigger from me, climbing up into that square entry/exit point to my grow area.
Yep sure looks like a ladybug to me. Different colors then I'm used to seeing.
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
This ladybug that I found, doesn't have any distinctive pattern. More like 3 different paint colours (brown, black , yellow), mixed together. I just want to make sure its not the plant eater one. Does all ladybug eat aphids? I can buy live ones, but there only two types.... One eats mealybugs, and the other eats scale insects?
 

bruce786

Well-Known Member
Hey Bruce786,

Here some picture. Just finish installing the carbon filter, but I don't have a intake yet.
Temperature inside are at 21C/64% Humidity.
Its pretty cramp inside, I built the flower room to be, 5.24ft x 5.24ft. Sorry about the photo quality. Using a phone to take them. Also I don't have much room inside to move around and take a good shot of the whole plant. But I can tell you its pretty packed inside there.
In two weeks, you guys will have a better picture. These were pop at May and about 3 month veg or longer.
Shit dude that stem is crazy! 3 months veg you should hit some crazy yield off of that. Ive got thrips in my tent, there very annoying and do cause damage to the leaves. Not enough for me to worry about. I think ladybugs are pretty harmless. Do you have a scope at all?
I think the onset of flowering is taking slightly longer, do you find that the same with yours? I could be imagining it!

All the best
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Shit dude that stem is crazy! 3 months veg you should hit some crazy yield off of that. Ive got thrips in my tent, there very annoying and do cause damage to the leaves. Not enough for me to worry about. I think ladybugs are pretty harmless. Do you have a scope at all?
I think the onset of flowering is taking slightly longer, do you find that the same with yours? I could be imagining it!

All the best
Not sure if its the right pest, thrips, but if it is. The fully matured thrips just breed, while its the larva that eats the roots or something like that. They like to hide, in humid & wet areas, where your roots are.
No I don't have a scope..... Also I noticed, when I was vegging, before I was going to flip to flower, she had some white pistils already showing. I heard that when plants are fully matured, they start to show their sex earlier. I was using 200w CXA 5000K, during veg. 24/0, 20/4, 18/6. I think by decreasing the hours of light, it could've thought the season was changing, which could've triggered the pre-flowering.

Hey also, how many drivers are you using? One or two? Also what timers & do you use a relay, for safety? I have purchased two different timers, digital and the other push/pull. Digital, was not reliable for me, so I switched to the push/pull. Now today the push/pull didn't turn off, and gave my plants 30 extra minutes of light. - Won't affect it.

I read this thread, where this guy builds some PCB relay, that turns on 1 led driver first, and then the second after 10secs or so. Have you done that?

No I don't have a scope. I was reading on your thread, that you might be getting 3500k chips? Whys that? 730nm is more for flowering, triggers the flowering growth faster. More dark hours ripens the bud faster. It nearly two weeks with us, am I right? You don't see much pistils on yours? Just wait at week 3 man, thats when our pistils come out shooting. Also takes about 2-4 weeks, for the stretch to stop. Well I know, that the first two week, make the plants show it sex, the next two weeks is the stretch?

Make sure your temps room temps are pretty constant. No light leaks @ light off. Have you also read the far red section???? I have read books about it also, and whatever I read from the book, links to the thread.
 

bruce786

Well-Known Member
I think thats fungas gnats that attack the roots. Thrips just munch the leaves, id much rather thrips, then spidermites! Yea preflowers do indicate maturity that she can be flowered.

Ive got 3 drivers 1 per panel. I use the 1500w 13A timers the push and pull ones. I just plug the drivers into the timer and the timer into the outlet. Ive had that with cheaper timers and it was a ballache - not saying yours were cheap, but did you buy a well recommended brand.

I have not done the PCB mainly because i have no clue what any of that means. This is probably the most complex thing ive done related to electrics!
I think ill be sticking with the 3000k chips as im very happy with the way the plants have grown. I wont be complicating the design to try and gain that extra 2%. I think because of it being my first run with the led lights im being hyper-critical on the grow. Yes ive seen a couple members implement 730nm to come on after the lights go off for about 15mins. I wont be doing that anytime soon as i havent seen results that are definitively conclusive. Im on day 22 of flower today, ill be posting an update in my journal later. What day of 12/12 are you?

My plants have definetly moved into the flowering phase, im just under the impression that they are slightly behind where hps would have been. Now i am thinking that its a bit cool in my tent sitting at about 22C lights on, and maybe 17C off. I would like to be sitting at 24-26 on and 20 off ideally.

Purplebuz mentioned about far/deep reds and the 3000k not having enough of them, now although he may be correct; ive seen journals completed with harvests of very high quality with an exceedingly good yield by my standards. So for now i will be sticking to dialing in the cobs for a few runs, and if i feel that there is still something lackluster i will look at ways to improve.
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
I think thats fungas gnats that attack the roots. Thrips just munch the leaves, id much rather thrips, then spidermites! Yea preflowers do indicate maturity that she can be flowered.

Ive got 3 drivers 1 per panel. I use the 1500w 13A timers the push and pull ones. I just plug the drivers into the timer and the timer into the outlet. Ive had that with cheaper timers and it was a ballache - not saying yours were cheap, but did you buy a well recommended brand.

I have not done the PCB mainly because i have no clue what any of that means. This is probably the most complex thing ive done related to electrics!
I think ill be sticking with the 3000k chips as im very happy with the way the plants have grown. I wont be complicating the design to try and gain that extra 2%. I think because of it being my first run with the led lights im being hyper-critical on the grow. Yes ive seen a couple members implement 730nm to come on after the lights go off for about 15mins. I wont be doing that anytime soon as i havent seen results that are definitively conclusive. Im on day 22 of flower today, ill be posting an update in my journal later. What day of 12/12 are you?

My plants have definetly moved into the flowering phase, im just under the impression that they are slightly behind where hps would have been. Now i am thinking that its a bit cool in my tent sitting at about 22C lights on, and maybe 17C off. I would like to be sitting at 24-26 on and 20 off ideally.

Purplebuz mentioned about far/deep reds and the 3000k not having enough of them, now although he may be correct; ive seen journals completed with harvests of very high quality with an exceedingly good yield by my standards. So for now i will be sticking to dialing in the cobs for a few runs, and if i feel that there is still something lackluster i will look at ways to improve.
After today it'll be on its 14 day.
Same goes for me. I spent over $1500 making these lights.
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
Last day of week 2.
PK13-14 on week 3. Lower base nutes down to about 400-500 ppm, and adding PK13-14.
I need a inline water pump to drain the nutes too. I can't wait for this harvest to be over, so much work with this setup.
 

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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
How do you like the lighting thus far? What have you noticed about them and how they affect the plants?
 

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
I never ever finished a harvest myself. If I manage to finish this one, this will be my first, and with LEDs.
I could of built a CXA 3070 setup, years ago... but waited couple of years until the top bins arrived. The purpose of building these, were to minimize the heat. Distributing the light spectrum to the canopy evenly - however I didn't really do it with this setup. Stuck the Cobs vertical/hori side by side, which way you look at it.

These leds are best when you scrog your plant evenly and having them tied down. We are able to distribute our light evenly to the canopy... too bad I took my scrog net off, and had to relocate.

I vegged with 200w 5000k CXA3590 (4 x cxa3590 + C700B), in a 1.65m length x 0.6m wide x 1.6m high tent. Had the light, mostly on one side of the tent. I say a 200w, would be perfect for a 3ft x 3ft grow space, with plants under a scrog net.
My plants that weren't scrog, but that were left in the DWC tote, without topping. Left on the other side of the tent, grew perfectly fine without even being under the 200w panel. It's a indica strain and at 2ft, cloned from the main plants..

400w panel CXB 3000K. Once I changed the lights, they started to stretch for a week.. Nothing that bad, now they're 4-8" from the light, and it seem like this is the height they like to be at. Now seems like they're starting to pack in some size soon.
 
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Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
I never ever finished a harvest myself. If I manage to finish this one, this will be my first, and with LEDs.
I could of built a CXA 3070 setup, years ago... but waited couple of years until the top bins arrived. The purpose of building these, were to minimize the heat. Distributing the light spectrum to the canopy evenly - however I didn't really do it with this setup. Stuck the Cobs vertical/hori side by side, which way you look at it.

These leds are best when you scrog your plant evenly and having them tied down. We are able to distribute our light evenly to the canopy... too bad I took my scrog net off, and had to relocate.

I vegged with 200w 5000k CXA3590 (4 x cxa3590 + C700B), in a 1.65m length x 0.6m wide x 1.6m high tent. Had the light, mostly on one side of the tent. I say a 200w, would be perfect for a 3ft x 3ft grow space, with plants under a scrog net.
My plants that weren't scrog, but that were left in the DWC tote, without topping. Left on the other side of the tent, grew perfectly fine without even being under the 200w panel. It's a indica strain and at 2ft, cloned from the main plants..

400w panel CXB 3000K. Once I changed the lights, they started to stretch for a week.. Nothing that bad, now they're 4-8" from the light, and it seem like this is the height they like to be at. Now seems like they're starting to pack in some size soon.
Some of my tops are seven or eight inches from my cobs and they are doing fine, your plants look healthy,
 
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