WHO'S HAVING SUCCESS WITH MONSTER CROPPING?

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
@Darth Vapour

dude do you think these guys know what would happen if you monster crop a monster crop cut that was monster cropped before then? Mind blowwwn...:shock:
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
I agree that it makes sense to keep the plant green and healthy until the end. But it is an annual plant, it's natural course is going to be to die off at the end of the year. Do you think the natural yellowing of the leaves near the end of the season starts right after peak ripeness? or would it not start yellowing in the wild until well after peak ripeness? Assuming it had all the nutrients it needs and nothing else was out of balance? Or would it just stay green all the way until the snow flies?
this whole paragraph sums up how little you actually understand the functions of plant tissues and how plant cells adapt to changing extremes all the time. and, you also payed very little attention to what was already stated in a paragraph above. the yellow is there all year. chlorophyll production stops at a certain point in the season due to hormones triggered by plants stress to drought (which surprise is brought on by cold temperature) and also photoperiod, and determinate lifespan if the plant is determinate. they break down the important, hard to acquire elements/minerals from the leaves (which is where chlorophyll breakdown is occurring), along with sugars produced, and send them down into the roots which are the storage facilities for a plant that has shed its leaves. It's not that these nutrients that cause a plant to turn green are all used up. FOR EXAMPLE In a deciduous forest, it is drought (freezing temps cause a water drought even though there is h2o present in ice form) affecting the plants ability to transpire (which is what is responsible for nutrient uptake) which triggers hormones to signal the plant the end of the season is coming or there is so little water available that it's best to just go dormant. I mean seriously if i have to explain any more i'm charging you for a fucking class.
 
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Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
this whole paragraph sums up how little you actually understand the functions of plant tissues and how plant cells adapt to changing extremes all the time. and, you also payed very little attention to what was already stated in a paragraph above. the yellow is there all year. chlorophyll production stops at a certain point in the season due to hormones triggered by plants stress to drought (which surprise is brought on by cold temperature) and also photoperiod, and determinate lifespan if the plant is determinate. they break down the important, hard to acquire elements/minerals from the leaves (which is where chlorophyll breakdown is occurring), along with sugars produced, and send them down into the roots which are the storage facilities for a plant that has shed its leaves. It's not that these nutrients that cause a plant to turn green are all used up. In a deciduous forest, it is drought (freezing temps cause a water drought even though there is h2o present in ice form) affecting the plants ability to transpire (which is what is responsible for nutrient uptake) which triggers hormones to signal the plant the end of the season is coming or there is so little water available that it's best to just go dormant. I mean seriously if i have to explain any more i'm charging you for a fucking class.
lmao class is dismissed todays era of growers do not worry about plant anatomy or functions they worry about light spectrum's and yield dismissing the most important part of what makes a plant tic
one wonders why people try to help but in turn get replies of non sense
from new growers alike is beyond me sometimes it better to ride the surf that gives everyone bad info then to try to direct them to good info.. you can bang your head non stop but its there head that needs banging
 

MammothGrow

Well-Known Member
this whole paragraph sums up how little you actually understand the functions of plant tissues and how plant cells adapt to changing extremes all the time. and, you also payed very little attention to what was already stated in a paragraph above. the yellow is there all year. chlorophyll production stops at a certain point in the season due to hormones triggered by plants stress to drought (which surprise is brought on by cold temperature) and also photoperiod, and determinate lifespan if the plant is determinate. they break down the important, hard to acquire elements/minerals from the leaves (which is where chlorophyll breakdown is occurring), along with sugars produced, and send them down into the roots which are the storage facilities for a plant that has shed its leaves. It's not that these nutrients that cause a plant to turn green are all used up. FOR EXAMPLE In a deciduous forest, it is drought (freezing temps cause a water drought even though there is h2o present in ice form) affecting the plants ability to transpire (which is what is responsible for nutrient uptake) which triggers hormones to signal the plant the end of the season is coming or there is so little water available that it's best to just go dormant. I mean seriously if i have to explain any more i'm charging you for a fucking class.
You are an extreme deuchebag ROFL! Obviously you have some knowledge about plant tissues, but nonetheless, you are a total D-BAG! Thanks for sharing information with us, oh wait, you want money for your time spent on a forum that is free for everyone to share information and gain knowledge through eachother so we can all become better growers. Why be such a dick.....dick!
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
I read somewhere you want to remove the all the budsites except for the top one. Have you heard this?
yes I removed all the bud sites, but cut the top one in half as this is where the shoots grow out of the bud site (loads of shoots) but I leave all the leaves on the clone, try and get a few sets of heathy leaves on each cutting as this will help to speed the plant growth :) I found cutting with a few nodes/bud sites stunts the plant and it takes a longer to get back to normal
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
but the point of flower is to grow buds, not roots. you want the plant spending energy on flowers. this is why transplanting and taking clones a week or two prior to flower is SO damn important.

i'll be honest, i haven't read a thing about monster cropping... but i feel like there is some placebo effect going on here with growers. the plant has a GENETIC CODE. it's going to grow the way it grows according to the GENETIC CODE. seems like a pretty basic botany lesson here, does it not? I understand that plants have hormones that respond to stress and all kinds of things. but honestly... i'd like to see some proof that this concept is real. you mean to tell me that a plant remembers that it was once flowered after it has cloned and revegged?? I'll stick to LST and pinching for now. do you have like the next 7 cycles ready to go all the time because of how late you all are cloning? doesn't that eat up your plant numbers? I don't monster crop and i'm seeing harvest of 1.5+lb per 600. that to me is monster cropping ;)
plants grow quick in the first few weeks in flower 12/12 (they can grow 3 times there size or more) as the light penetration is not very good from any light, take a 600w hps you would be lucky if you get any good qualty buds more than 3ft below the bulb so removing all the lower growth will direct all the enegy to the higher canopy and give you larger buds
getting the plants to redirect the enegy to the roots should only be done up to a week before flower, small plants with a large root mass will give you a smaller plant and as the plants not as tall the roots can give the bud sites more nutes in flower and it takes less effect as the plants shorter as you stunt the growth in early veg

basically what I am trying to do is get a small plant with a large root mass, topping a plant a few time in veg or mainline also reduces/stunts the the plant size so in flower the roots and give the buds more nutes
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
this whole paragraph sums up how little you actually understand the functions of plant tissues and how plant cells adapt to changing extremes all the time. and, you also payed very little attention to what was already stated in a paragraph above. the yellow is there all year. chlorophyll production stops at a certain point in the season due to hormones triggered by plants stress to drought (which surprise is brought on by cold temperature) and also photoperiod, and determinate lifespan if the plant is determinate. they break down the important, hard to acquire elements/minerals from the leaves (which is where chlorophyll breakdown is occurring), along with sugars produced, and send them down into the roots which are the storage facilities for a plant that has shed its leaves. It's not that these nutrients that cause a plant to turn green are all used up. FOR EXAMPLE In a deciduous forest, it is drought (freezing temps cause a water drought even though there is h2o present in ice form) affecting the plants ability to transpire (which is what is responsible for nutrient uptake) which triggers hormones to signal the plant the end of the season is coming or there is so little water available that it's best to just go dormant. I mean seriously if i have to explain any more i'm charging you for a fucking class.


can't see this being true about weed but I would like to see someone remove every leaf off a large canbis plant and see if it redirect the enegy from the roots to grow a leaf, if not your not talking about weed and thats all I care about on this site :)
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
You are an extreme deuchebag ROFL! Obviously you have some knowledge about plant tissues, but nonetheless, you are a total D-BAG! Thanks for sharing information with us, oh wait, you want money for your time spent on a forum that is free for everyone to share information and gain knowledge through eachother so we can all become better growers. Why be such a dick.....dick!
yeah personal attacks... shows your level of maturity. also shows that you know nothing about the plant you cultivate. all i'm saying is educate yourself. wasn't anything personal at all. no one can take advice or info without being offended on this site. really sad.
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
can't see this being true about weed but I would like to see someone remove every leaf off a large canbis plant and see if it redirect the enegy from the roots to grow a leaf, if not your not talking about weed and thats all I care about on this site :)
seriously go take a basic botany class. you will learn how plants ACTUALLY FUNCTION, rather than feeding bottled nutes cause the formula calls for you to. if you can learn what the tissues are, i suggest you start with xylem and phloem. that'll clear up a few things about transpiration, nutrient and sugar transportation.

Edit: not to mention, no one said anything about stripping every leaf off of a cannabis plant to do this because who knows what hormones that would trigger? Further edit: pretty sure cannabis is determinate plant so ripping the leaves off would be a pointless experiment for this species because it is not genetically coded to regrow leaves every season. it produces flowers and dies after seeds are mature... in other words it has a programmed life cycle.
 
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Darth Vapour

Well-Known Member
One thing is stripping leafs off the plant other is prunning two different concepts pruning to remove lower bud sites that would not produce due to light penetration is good practice
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
seriously go take a basic botany class. you will learn how plants ACTUALLY FUNCTION, rather than feeding bottled nutes cause the formula calls for you to. if you can learn what the tissues are, i suggest you start with xylem and phloem. that'll clear up a few things about transpiration, nutrient and sugar transportation.

Edit: not to mention, no one said anything about stripping every leaf off of a cannabis plant to do this because who knows what hormones that would trigger? Further edit: pretty sure cannabis is determinate plant so ripping the leaves off would be a pointless experiment for this species because it is not genetically coded to regrow leaves every season. it produces flowers and dies after seeds are mature... in other words it has a programmed life cycle.
you don't need to know plant biology in depth to grow a plants lol
thats why you have farmers and scientists, one grows plants and one studies plants.
I learnt by growing plants over the last 10 year.


removing every leaf

I can tell you how the plant will react, it will die because all the food is stored in the leaves, that why you take cutting and they root. I also know that stripping a brach will kill the branch back to the first leave so I know it aftect the flow of enegy in that part of shoot.
it will die back to the first leaves on the shoot.
Often cut or remove leaves to reduces the flow of nutes and slows the growth down on that part of the plant, I do this often to control the canopy shape in veg
the other problem is growing plants under lights is so diffent to growing plants outside and most the rules are diffent
for example who cares about canopy shape outside as long as the plant large healthy and bushy
you have no control over the environment or when the plant flowers, only contral you have is where and when you grow the plant how much do you really know about how plant grow indoors under diffent light compaired to plants grown outside, you did'nt know a cannabis plant would die if you stripped the leaves ?
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
One thing is stripping leafs off the plant other is prunning two different concepts pruning to remove lower bud sites that would not produce due to light penetration is good practice
the point I was trying to make is if canbis plants store enegy in the roots a large canbis plant should not die as it can redirect some enegy from the roots and grow a few leaves but I am sure it will die prunning a plant works because you redirecting enegy from small weak shoots to the stronger shoots which will increase the heath and giver you larger buds also will increase the air flow inturn reducing the chance of mold and reduces the humidity
 

ShLUbY

Well-Known Member
you don't need to know plant biology in depth to grow a plants lol
thats why you have farmers and scientists, one grows plants and one studies plants.
I learnt by growing plants over the last 10 year.


removing every leaf

I can tell you how the plant will react, it will die because all the food is stored in the leaves, that why you take cutting and they root. I also know that stripping a brach will kill the branch back to the first leave so I know it aftect the flow of enegy in that part of shoot.
it will die back to the first leaves on the shoot.
Often cut or remove leaves to reduces the flow of nutes and slows the growth down on that part of the plant, I do this often to control the canopy shape in veg
the other problem is growing plants under lights is so diffent to growing plants outside and most the rules are diffent
for example who cares about canopy shape outside as long as the plant large healthy and bushy
you have no control over the environment or when the plant flowers, only contral you have is where and when you grow the plant how much do you really know about how plant grow indoors under diffent light compaired to plants grown outside, you did'nt know a cannabis plant would die if you stripped the leaves ?
actually the plant dies because the leaves are how it MAKES food. plant builds tissues and organs that make food for the plant in the leaf. not saying they dont store things in the leaves as well, but the root system is a storage facility for cannabis... or likely any plant. you have some scholarly literature that says cannabis DOESN'T store sugars and other things in roots?
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3504842 ^^^ Yup Its no different when a plant has no nutrients to uptake it will start eatting itself in order to survive so its starts on lower part of plant working its self up root development stops as well as growth development ,,
People got to realize that when a plant is stressed meaning no food cold temps or what ever ,, she stops what she is doing and puts all her energy into survival mode to combat either insect infestation, no nutrients in soil and so forth
this is why in every botanic book out there its stressed to give plants a well balanced nutrient at the beginning of its life if you go to a store and look at starter nutrients they most likely will be high in the P and K this is to develop roots and structure of plant as you head into veg the first number N and last number K should be higher in value as we progress into flower the middle number P should be the highest Value followed by K but lets not forget Nitrogen is needed for all processes of plant functions
The secret is not to delete the Nitrogen but its to have it as the lowest number so it should look like 6 18 12 for flower for veg 6 12 18
the yellowing of a flowering marijuana plant is a god dam myth we again as humans implement cause we see fall yellow leafs falling off trees this means our mj should be yellowing off this is just wrong
The yellowing is cause you fucked up in your indoor grow most likely locking up the plant cause of ph issues
Since when ???? when growing organically out door does a mj plant or any plant yellow off when the soil is rich in organics
the rules are diffent when you grow out side and this covers nearly every plant in the world so all books botanic are going to say this and I this is great advice for anyone growing auto's as they also have a set veg time they can't control
indoors under light, you contol when the plants are flowered and its all about filling a room with a level canopy
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
actually the plant dies because the leaves are how it MAKES food. plant builds tissues and organs that make food for the plant in the leaf. not saying they dont store things in the leaves as well, but the root system is a storage facility for cannabis... or likely any plant. you have some scholarly literature that says cannabis DOESN'T store sugars and other things in roots?
just saying canbis plants are not storing food in the roots as a way to survive in cold or bad weather ect
 

MammothGrow

Well-Known Member
yeah personal attacks... shows your level of maturity. also shows that you know nothing about the plant you cultivate. all i'm saying is educate yourself. wasn't anything personal at all. no one can take advice or info without being offended on this site. really sad.
You spoke your mind in a condescending deuchey way, hence the "personal attack". Go cry about it.
 

jacksthc

Well-Known Member
do you know what phloem is?
yes its the roots supplying the plant all the food it needs from the roots and with most plants allows then to grow new shoots when the plant is badly dammaged, or in the spring but as canbis plant only grows for a season the genetics of the plant doesn't allow the roots to grow new shoots so it works diffent, you probably know why but all that matters is canbis plants can't shed its leaves and store energy in the roots to pull around when the weather picks up
its set in stone where new shoots can grow on a canbis plant and its only on green brach/ stem, once you remove a leaf below a node/shoot it will never grow back
 
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