Limo's CXB3590 build

Abiqua said:
@CanadianONE

read page one, after a moment of weakness and being incorrectly "corrected" and by two members I really enjoy no less, I just wanted to clarify to @Limosnero [It is not per cm^2/cm fyi]

-200 watts of cooling would be with ACTIVE cooling only... on 36" of 4.9, so maybe that was a typo, my bad if so.....eairlier, incorrect calculation were given for 200 watts of passive cooling, I want to make that CLEAR!


:peace:
Click to expand...
Sorry bro you were right.

It's indeed in quite interesting units cm^2/in. Using only perimeter would be more natural. Similar concept as using µmol/s/W instead of µmol/J.
formulas.jpg
 
The published extrusion data shows natural convection performance for a three inch section with a centrally located point source heat load. Because the heat load is assumed to be at a point rather than uniformly distributed, thermal resistance does not change linearly with length. (The ends of a very long extrusion would be cooler than the center and therefore the transfer of heat to the surrounding air is little, if any.) It is therefore necessary to apply a correction factor to published data for extrusion lengths shorter or longer than three inches. The corrected thermal resistance for different lengths of extrusion is obtained by multiplying published °C/W/3-in data by the appropriate factor from the following table:
tables and more here... Length Correction Considerations

BTW.
placing cobs near the Edges and Corner of a heatsink also shows me that the Supra Lednurse has no Idea how cooling with Heatsinks really works!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/heatsinks-for-diy-led-lamps.851907/page-55#post-11896376
846-x-62-400w-png.3497734

 
guod said:
The published extrusion data shows natural convection performance for a three inch section with a centrally located point source heat load. Because the heat load is assumed to be at a point rather than uniformly distributed, thermal resistance does not change linearly with length. (The ends of a very long extrusion would be cooler than the center and therefore the transfer of heat to the surrounding air is little, if any.) It is therefore necessary to apply a correction factor to published data for extrusion lengths shorter or longer than three inches. The corrected thermal resistance for different lengths of extrusion is obtained by multiplying published °C/W/3-in data by the appropriate factor from the following table:
tables and more here... Length Correction Considerations

BTW.
placing cobs near the Edges and Corner of a heatsink also shows me that the Supra Lednurse has no Idea how cooling with Heatsinks really works!
https://www.rollitup.org/t/heatsinks-for-diy-led-lamps.851907/page-55#post-11896376
846-x-62-400w-png.3497734
Click to expand...
You're right, from the thermal point of view. But that isn't the only one. There's evenness of distribution of light and more. One also has to realize that most of the HS used there are quite overkill compared to commercial LED fixtures, and you can do quite well even if the sink doesn't use its full potential. I'm pretty sure that he knows there could be a better placement, thermally.
 
Bonjour
My first concern about my cob/pannels is light spreading not thermal management...but since I have one cob per hs and that it is at the center of the hs I believe I have both...
Have a great day ★
 
Does anyone have a suggestion on where to order connector kits (wires/plugs) for the Ideal holders 50-2303CR? Also, the drivers have a dimmer option...looks like I need to supply the dimmer...suggestions?
 
Bonjour
For the dimming option...I believe you have an hlg-...-....b?!?
So, you have the thread 3in1 dimming fonction...or, if it is for 1 driver you need a 100k ohm potentiometer and a 10k ohm resistor between dim+ and dim- to go from 10% to 100% power...and you have pwm and arduino, but I do not use it and I do notknow how it work!
Have a great day ★
 
littlejacob said:
Bonjour
For the dimming option...I believe you have an hlg-...-....b?!?
So, you have the thread 3in1 dimming fonction...or, if it is for 1 driver you need a 100k ohm potentiometer and a 10k ohm resistor between dim+ and dim- to go from 10% to 100% power...and you have pwm and arduino, but I do not use it and I do notknow how it work!
Have a great day ★
Click to expand...

Yes it's B...I know I need a 100k pot for each driver or 50k for 2...not sure what W it should be rated at?
 
Bonjour
Nice build...is all the hs are attached together?
Or you can move left, middle and right independently?
Have a great day ★
 
Bonjour
Easier to move up and down and very practical for a scrog...I will do this for my 4x4 because all my plants have the same height!
But in the smaller one I need flexibility that's why I separate my 4 cobs...it is more a test light...I am going to try indica, hybrid and saliva with differents nutes and medium...to observ strains reactions and try to have a better "understand"of my lights.
And so to be able to have different plant size in the box...
I will go for 9 cxb 3590 in my 4x4...thanks to hlg-240-1400b!!!... (16@700mA is my goal...but who know what's going to be available in the next months...cxc???!!!...lol)
Have a great day ★
 
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