Is this a cal mag issue ?

steezy wonder

Active Member
This is on a few lower fan leaves from my flower room. Is this calcium or magnesium? I have cal mag and Epsom salt. 10 gal ro res, flood and drain, 2 weeks into flower. I'm using Lucas formula and did a light dose after flushing. Is it time to bump my nutes and ppm up ? Also foiler feed or put in res, what Is the best or most effective ?
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anoos

Well-Known Member
I don't know about lucas formula but yeah if it's just near the bottom/on the older leaves, it looks like magnesium deficiency.
 

hotrodharley

Well-Known Member
This is on a few lower fan leaves from my flower room. Is this calcium or magnesium? I have cal mag and Epsom salt. 10 gal ro res, flood and drain, 2 weeks into flower. I'm using Lucas formula and did a light dose after flushing. Is it time to bump my nutes and ppm up ? Also foiler feed or put in res, what Is the best or most effective ?
View attachment 3528123View attachment 3528125
What is your current PPM? I know nothing about Lucas formula.
 

anoos

Well-Known Member
couldn't say on the epsom salts mate personally i don't use em, i just use cal mag, plants rarely seem to mind a bit of extra calcium, especially in flower
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
You think a bit of this will clear it up ?
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It should yes, but in your first post you mentioned that you were questioning on raising the ppm and ec. I'm also not familiar with the Lucas formula. Although if you have a K deficiency in the 2nd week of flower, I'd say yes, bump up the EC. And go over your nutrient parameters and make sure it's dialed in first before making any changes. If your EC is to high or nutrient values are out of wack, this will cause a deficiency.
When I feed salts instead of organic, especially with hydro, I drop back around 200 ppm less than when in veg when I switch to flower. Increase gradually. Personally I don't think any organic has a place in hydro where salts are being given. I'd only suggest organics when in an aquaponic set up. Foliar isn't a bad idea and is the route I'd go. Mix up a gallons worth and add 1 or 2 drops of dish detergent for a surfactant. It helps the nutritive foliar stick and evenly coat, instead of balling up or running off.
Remove the plants from direct light when u foliar, put a fan on them until dry, return to the light. I've burned alot of plants being careless with foliar and HIDs.
 

steezy wonder

Active Member
Yeah like I said about 2 weeks into flower so I did a flush then and added 1/2 strength from ro water with some cal mag, put some kelp and hydroguard in tonight and a bit more nutes, Ppm is at 600 now. I'll change the res in 3 days and maybe see how things are, may drop down my ppm if everything is still good.
 

bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
Using tap water is a natural source of cal/mag and should be all the plant(s) need. If you are using RO water in the res you'll have to add the appropriate amount of cal/mag as RO water is stripped of most of these minerals. The majority of NPK fetilizers don't add cal/ mag.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
How old are your plants? What strains are they?
All plants are different when it comes to how much nutrient they can tolerate. Your enviroment ie... air movement, light intensity, humidity, temperature regulation, ventilation all have an influence on plants needs and functions.
In my experience, less nutrient is always better at first, once the plants physically show me they need more, I'll bump up the dose.
 

Grandpa GreenJeans

Well-Known Member
Using tap water is a natural source of cal/mag and should be all the plant(s) need. If you are using RO water in the res you'll have to add the appropriate amount of cal/mag as RO water is stripped of most of these minerals. The majority of NPK fetilizers don't add cal/ mag.
I use tap, but very far and few. Where I live the tap water actually smells of chlorine, and we have the second highest floride levels in the nation. Just think of all those condoms and heroine syringes, shit and piss, who knows what else, that gets recycled back to the tap. Now think of all the chemicals needed to clean that water up making it acceptable for human consumption. It does have chlorides in it and I know that plants need some, but everyone should pull a water quality and content report (MSDS) on their local municipality. Assumption is, the mother of all fuck ups. (No pun intended)
 

ButchyBoy

Well-Known Member
[QUOTE="Grandpa GreenJeans, post: 12014735, member: 914796" go over your nutrient parameters and make sure it's dialed in first before making any changes. If your EC is to high or nutrient values are out of wack, this will cause a deficiency.
.[/QUOTE]

This right here! ^^^^^^

If you have too much of one thing it can lock out another nute. My tap water is hard meaning it is high in calcium. One of my strains gets a Magnesium lockout due to the high calcium content in my water. I can limp it to finish by adding epsom salt to my water but there is still an issue due to the calcium. For me an RO filter is in the future to cure this issue.

In fear of sharing this chart too much I will do it again!

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bird mcbride

Well-Known Member
Usually in a rock garden when the lower leaves turn yellow it means that it needs a bit more on the watering. Low air humidity(dryness) can also cause them to get a bit on the dry side prematurely.When my moms take to looking a bit yellowish I increase the watering accordingly. And you'll notice in the budding room that as the plant(s) progress into buds they start using way more water from the res. I top the res up daily with an electric valve and a timer and a water level cut off sensor...things you can prepare for and add as you go. So up to about week three you can get away with switching the res every seven days but after that you'll have to swap it out more regularly and towards the end you might find you'll have to do it every four days. I feed my moms with the spent water from the budders. That way I can't screw up on the mom(s).
 
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