Ph good. No pests. Temp ok. What's wrong with this plant?

Kili Frunza

Active Member
Your chasing the classic ghost deficiency associated with a rootbound plant. The fact that a 27 day old plant is in full flower is proof enough.

Best of luck.
Peace
1. That plant is not in full flower, it looks to me like it just shows sex
2. A plant that is 27 days old can be flowering. 27 Days is almost 4 weeks, if you start under a 12/12 a regular plant will flower after 3 weeks of life like autos do.

Be careful if you choose to flush it cause washing the roots will lead to no nutrients at all in the ground and can cause problems, you will see yellow leaves if you will flush. Perhaps it rootbound indeed, whats the ph of the runoff water?
 

HookahsGarden

Well-Known Member
1. That plant is not in full flower, it looks to me like it just shows sex
2. A plant that is 27 days old can be flowering. 27 Days is almost 4 weeks, if you start under a 12/12 a regular plant will flower after 3 weeks of life like autos do.

Be careful if you choose to flush it cause washing the roots will lead to no nutrients at all in the ground and can cause problems, you will see yellow leaves if you will flush. Perhaps it rootbound indeed, whats the ph of the runoff water?
Um..... It seems to me that your powers of observation might be off.
That is not a just preflowers. It's in flowering mode.
Maybe you should grow more before you try to help someone else.
Thanks.
 

Kili Frunza

Active Member
Um..... It seems to me that your powers of observation might be off.
That is not a just preflowers. It's in flowering mode.
Maybe you should grow more before you try to help someone else.
Thanks.
Ok. Lets get one thing straight. The fact that you "grow more" doesn't necesarelly mean you actually know your shit. You can grow and keep growing the way you do without actually improving your "growing skills", that is called empirical facts. On the other hand, reading trusted sources articles and studies and collecting information that from other growers, putting them head to head, that is more close to scientific facts.

That clearly looks like a week 1 flowering, or the end of pre-flowering, the buds have not even formed, it is said by many known growers that until the buds start to form you can't call it a flowering because the plant will still stretch. The moment the plant stops stretching then you can call it flowering phase and should change nutes to flowering. And i am just curious based on what assumption you are so sure of yourself when you say "grow more before you talk", how the f. do you know how much i've grown or not, based on your the trust you have on your information?

And also why is not flowering mode yet is because even a regular plant cannot flower under 3 weeks even if you start on 12/12 (that is a know fact) and most autos start flower after 3 weeks, and in the first week, week and a half after those 3 weeks of veg its still pre-flowering. So based on the timeline its not possible to be in flower yet.
 

HookahsGarden

Well-Known Member
Ok. Lets get one thing straight. The fact that you "grow more" doesn't necesarelly mean you actually know your shit. You can grow and keep growing the way you do without actually improving your "growing skills", that is called empirical facts. On the other hand, reading trusted sources articles and studies and collecting information that from other growers, putting them head to head, that is more close to scientific facts.

That clearly looks like a week 1 flowering, or the end of pre-flowering, the buds have not even formed, it is said by many known growers that until the buds start to form you can't call it a flowering because the plant will still stretch. The moment the plant stops stretching then you can call it flowering phase and should change nutes to flowering. And i am just curious based on what assumption you are so sure of yourself when you say "grow more before you talk", how the f. do you know how much i've grown or not, based on your the trust you have on your information?
I can tell you don't know your shit based on your half assed guess about the plant in this tread. I don't need much more proof. You are just one of many noobs giving advice on this forum. So don't take it personal.
 
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Kili Frunza

Active Member
I can tell you don't know your shit based on your half assed guess about the plant in this tread. I don't need much more proof. You are just one of many noobs giving advice on this forum. So don't take it personal.
Oh ok, my bad.... then in this case i need help with my plant cause i am not sure if its flowering or not so i have a dilema if i switch to flowering nutes or not. What do you think? Thanks

flowering or not.jpg
 

Kili Frunza

Active Member
The picture is unclear and I don't have enough info. Maybe you should start a thread.
Right, maybe you should not back off and try to find excuses if you think of yourself as a such "Knowledge master". This plant looks exactly like his, no buds are forming and on right ground cause its almost 30 days on 20/4 still vegging. You use the same arguments as religious people do "Because i say so, or because i think so". I may not know all when it comes to growing but i am sure as hell not pretending to like you do and also not being a hypocrite calling people noobs around just because I THINK SO.

Now to our boy here, brother before you flush take a ph test on the water and take one on the runoff. Also to make sure its not ph related at the root zone, try to take a sample of soil from around your roots, put it in de-mineralised water (what you use for your car radiator) you can find it in gas station (its important to not have minerals in it), test the ph for it , note it down then take the soil mix it well in it for about 5 minutes and test the ph again. See the differences, it should give you a clear reading on the ph at root zone. If the ph is too low/high there and nutes absorbtion can't be done by the plant you found your problem.

PS: If flushing is done and not needed you can cause more damage than good....especially if you are about to go into flowering when the plant needs key nutes to develop buds!
 
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HookahsGarden

Well-Known Member
Right, maybe you should not back off and try to find excuses if you think of yourself as a such "Knowledge master". This plant looks exactly like his, no buds are forming and on right ground cause its almost 30 days on 20/4 still vegging. You use the same arguments as religious people do "Because i say so, or because i think so". I may not know all when it comes to growing but i am sure as hell not pretending to like you do and also not being a hypocrite calling people noobs around just because I THINK SO.

Now to our boy here, brother before you flush take a ph test on the water and take one on the runoff. Also to make sure its not ph related at the root zone, try to take a sample of soil from around your roots, put it in de-mineralised water (what you use for your car radiator) you can find it in gas station (its important to not have minerals in it), test the ph for it , note it down then take the soil mix it well in it for about 5 minutes and test the ph again. See the differences, it should give you a clear reading on the ph at root zone. If the ph is too low/high there and nutes absorbtion can't be done by the plant you found your problem.

PS: If flushing is done and not needed you can cause more damage than good....especially if you are about to go into flowering when the plant needs key nutes to develop.
Lmao. I'm going to let you help him with no interference since you know so much.
But...
PH is not the issue. His thread title even says PH good.
If you had experience you would know this.
Lol.
Let the blind lead the blind should be this sites mantra.

(Washes hands)
 
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Kili Frunza

Active Member
Lmao. I'm going to let you help him with no interference since you know so much.
But...
PH is not the issue. His thread title even says PH good.
If you had experience you would know this.
Lol.
Let the blind lead the blind should be this sites mantra.

(Washes hands)
That's all he said PH is good. Did anyone asked him how he tested the PH, perhaps he only test the in ph? Did he test ph on every watering (i doubt so), if PH is off for many waterings at a time it will change the ph at root zone but you already know that. An off ph at root zone can simply cause problems exactly like this.
 

LouisB

Well-Known Member
The plant's an autoflower, it's northern light's from royal queen seeds, and ya i just went out to the growin center here and picked up some new nutes. The plant's have been flushed and tonight im going to use these with distilled water. Hopefully it bounces back. I'll update soon. Thanks for all the input
 

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tropicalcannabispatient

Well-Known Member
They are in 10" pots. And after reading most the day I'm pretty certain its a Nitrogen difenency. So I'm gonna work on that. And remove this, oh and temps are like 28ish. Hard to keep it there tho my light's to much for a tent.
Run lighys at night time. Lights off during the day. Put to fans in the tent blowing at canopy
 

anzohaze

Well-Known Member
The plant's an autoflower, it's northern light's from royal queen seeds, and ya i just went out to the growin center here and picked up some new nutes. The plant's have been flushed and tonight im going to use these with distilled water. Hopefully it bounces back. I'll update soon. Thanks for all the input
Why distilled water are nor another source
 

420PyRoS

Well-Known Member
I'd put it in a bigger pot, throw in more perlite if need be, blast it with fresh water a few times, then feed the bitch 1/2 str base nutes.
I'm prolly wrong though. Christ I grew both my girls with 10-52-10 their entire life. Look fine too.
 

LouisB

Well-Known Member
Run lighys at night time. Lights off during the day. Put to fans in the tent blowing at canopy
I actually haven't shut the lights off since i started growing. Since they're autoflower i read 24/0 increases yeild till the last day or so then give them a day or so of dark. Mind it is the internet and everyone has a different opinion. I just came across that cycle a few time's and thought it made sense
 

420PyRoS

Well-Known Member
I actually haven't shut the lights off since i started growing. Since they're autoflower i read 24/0 increases yeild till the last day or so then give them a day or so of dark. Mind it is the internet and everyone has a different opinion. I just came across that cycle a few time's and thought it made sense
I put my auto from 20/4 to 18/6 like an idiot because I didn't think she was going into flower. Once the other one is a tad bit older into flower I might push back up to 20/4 if it doesn't do anything? lol!
 

mista sativa

Well-Known Member
To be honest doesn't look like too much of a problem... I'd transplant like the chaps suggested, then your roots will be in fresh soil so not much need to flush, just start with recommended dose of ferts (do some research on the fertz and the strain, as to whether they are a heavy feeder). Also, I would trim that bottom growth anyway, even if it wasn't yellowing. It'll force more canopy growth and allow a gap from the soil to vegetation.
 

420PyRoS

Well-Known Member
The plant's an autoflower, it's northern light's from royal queen seeds, and ya i just went out to the growin center here and picked up some new nutes. The plant's have been flushed and tonight im going to use these with distilled water. Hopefully it bounces back. I'll update soon. Thanks for all the input
Its unfortunate from your pic of nutes that there isn't more nitrogen. Seems low to me but again Im not an expert. Ratio/mix could be higher for the bloom shit tho. I dunno what it says.
 
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