Old houses and repairs..need some advice

sunni

Administrator
Staff member
hmm interesting, i have no real opinions on the matter, hope you resolve it
 

abe supercro

Well-Known Member
Floor joist are solid, not a spot of rot in them..thank god. The structure of this house is way overbuilt..at least compared to anything built in the last 20-30 years. I figure the cement is about 20lbs/sqft, so it's about 1000 lbs of concrete..lol.


renovations still good eh. hey, how'd the tile patch go?
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
renovations still good eh. hey, how'd the tile patch go?
Never finished it, been living with a hole in the floor. Things haven't gone well around here and until i hold a title to this place I'm not putting one more dollar or minute into it..but thanks for asking!
 

Flaming Pie

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't want to put any money into repairing a house from the 40s.

Personally, I would look for some plywood to cover it and a heavy rug plus table.

Then I would look for a house built in the 70s.

Or you could wait until tax return to pay someone to remodel it.
 

Elwood Diggler

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't want to put any money into repairing a house from the 40s.

Personally, I would look for some plywood to cover it and a heavy rug plus table.

Then I would look for a house built in the 70s.

Or you could wait until tax return to pay someone to remodel it.


you'd be most likely trading a well built house for a lesser quality house
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
House was built mid 40's, bathroom hasn't been touched since it was built..awesome pink and black.... :spew:The floor rotted out and collapsed next to my tub, so i figured I'd do a patch for now until i can afford a full remodel. Started tearing up the area and there's 1 1/2" of concrete poured on top of tar paper on top of the floorboards( old 1x9 tongue and groove). Once i replace the rotted boards, can i just lay some more tar paper and pour self leveling concrete in there then thin set on top of that? I've talked to a couple buddies in construction and they aren't 100% on how to do a repair, they both said tear it all up and replace it, but they say my plan sounds reasonable. I've already opened the can o'worms more than i wanted. I'm not looking for perfection, just something to get me by for a couple years that won't start cracking and falling apart in a few months. Ideas?

u fucked up

since u started this all the work has to be to code ..........1940s code was shit allowing them to do the tar paper .......legally u have to for your insurance to still be active or to allow u to sell/live in the house

rotting a floor means water the tar paper is not doing shit but trapping the water ....this most time means mold (pray this is what happens ......u contact a mold guy that has ties to your insurance ppl ....it test positive u file a insurance claim ......they ok it ) this gives u a large sum of cash to remove the mold clean the house up and basic rebuild to the room (they will not pay designer prices ) so the money u have now u can use for finer fixtures
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
u fucked up

since u started this all the work has to be to code ..........1940s code was shit allowing them to do the tar paper .......legally u have to for your insurance to still be active or to allow u to sell/live in the house

rotting a floor means water the tar paper is not doing shit but trapping the water ....this most time means mold (pray this is what happens ......u contact a mold guy that has ties to your insurance ppl ....it test positive u file a insurance claim ......they ok it ) this gives u a large sum of cash to remove the mold clean the house up and basic rebuild to the room (they will not pay designer prices ) so the money u have now u can use for finer fixtures
shut up
 

ricky1lung

Well-Known Member
For a temp fix (which I wouldn't recommend but I do understand the need)

The sub floor doesn't look structurally sound near the tub at all, so drop a chalk line and take out the sub floor from end to end a minimum of two feet away from the tub 3-4 feet would be better if you can.

That will give you enough structure In The high traffic area around the tub.

You will need to build up the sub floor to match the level of the tile so you don't create a pool in front of the tub and trap more water.

Cover it all with some cheap Lino in one piece (whole floor) and seal the edges. That will get you through until you can afford a proper fix and keep you from falling through and causing more damages from water or weak spots.
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
sorry man

but it is the truth .......can check the laws
i am telling u this so u are covered ........if u do not handle it right it is a loop hole that your insurance ppl will use so they do not have to pay for anything (u broke the terms of the contract)
 
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