Troubleshooting: DIY Light on the fritz

[Waiks]

My family
Hello!

Slight complications right now in the house of Waiks. For the past few days I've had to jiggle the connection point between the driver wires and the cob wires to get it to light up. (18 gauge solid alarm wire, hlg 120h 350B) Today I had the time to redo the connection. I cut off the butt splice crimp ons, and installed Ideal ensure 3 port connectors. Next, I electrical taped around the connectors. I double checked every other connection was secure, (between the 12 cobs and 12 monos) then plugged her in. After the two seconds startup, all the leds lit up, but very very dimmed. Like on, but barely on. Lol. I'm not too sure what can be causing this other than loose connections, but I'm certain theyre secure. The drivers dimmer cables are taped off and dont touch each other.

Gotta mention, this morning I jiggled to get the lights on, then maybe an hour later they were completely off. Luckily it was while I had the plants out watering them, but looking back it makes me believe that maybe the driver is damaged? I really hope not.

I have girls in flower that really need the light back asap. What steps can I perform to find the root of the problem? I NEED to fix this soon

Thank you gurus

 

[Greengenes707]

My family
Hello!

Slight complications right now in the house of Waiks. For the past few days I've had to jiggle the connection point between the driver wires and the cob wires to get it to light up. (18 gauge solid alarm wire, hlg 120h 350B) Today I had the time to redo the connection. I cut off the butt splice crimp ons, and installed Ideal ensure 3 port connectors. Next, I electrical taped around the connectors. I double checked every other connection was secure, (between the 12 cobs and 12 monos) then plugged her in. After the two seconds startup, all the leds lit up, but very very dimmed. Like on, but barely on. Lol. I'm not too sure what can be causing this other than loose connections, but I'm certain theyre secure. The drivers dimmer cables are taped off and dont touch each other.

I have girls in flower that really need the light back asap. What steps can I perform to find the root of the problem?

Thank you gurus

What kind of holders? Could be a holder not making a good connection with the contact pads. I've had that.
Also that voltage could be an issue for the holder/connector. Or even the wire for that matter. Is it 600v rated or just 300v jacket?

 

[Waiks]

No holders, vero 10s. Pico connectors. I checked to see if those were secure also.

Trying to find voltage rating for the wire

 

[Positivity]

I'd guess a wire was shorting out somewhere. Did you notice some dim and some not. Lot of times the point it becomes not lit at is a trouble spot
Use a multimeter to test each star possibly...may now have a dead one..

 

[Waiks]

@Positivity All were dimmed down to the same very low level. That doesn't sound like fun. Let's hope it's simpler than that!

Turns out my wire is rated at only 150v.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-50-ft-18-2-Thermostat-Wire-Brown-64162140/204862204

I have over 300v from the 12 vero 10s and monos.
I figured out the other light that uses the same wire but more wattage, uses less volts.

Sooooooooo first step get better wire?
Then multimeter test can come after

 

[Positivity]

Does the wire feel warm? That's why I don't use thermostat wire... Low voltage. Radio shack online has a good selection, small quantity of higher voltage wire's

Maybe voltage calculation off? How many volts are you running and how much allowable on driver.

A wire that works when jiggled is usually a sign of the problem and the light shouldn't be run like that anyway. Really seems like it has to be a connection issue and now a possibly damaged led...

If the LEDS light... They work in my experience. I've never seen one "kinda work"

Stuff to get done.. Good luck... You'll get it

 

[Waiks]

215-430v rating for the driver.
I'm running about 340v

Never felt the heat, but I need them in the light now. Off to city mill for wire soon. 16awg 600v or so. Probably should grab a multimeter also.
All the leds light up, dimmed right now. Praying the new wire will make them glow bright again.

Positive news- all the girls can fit in the vegestation... under 2 vero 10's 5000k, moms back under 2 xml's. They've got decent light for now
Got this Da Buddha vape and it's keeping me and the braddahman distracted as fuck lol

 

[Greengenes707]

The 18 gauge is fine for the voltage. It's the jacket on the wiring that the ratings are for and some current could be getting through and possibly shorting somewhere.
You're definately on the right path and should have it fixed in no time.

 

[Waiks]

Swapped it out with 18/3 300v...not turning on at all now. I think I'm going to test each individual cob now with a driver rated to power just one. Luckily the connectors I used between each cob are easily swapped.

Hopefully I didn't fry something.. report back soon. Girls aren't too happy under the low light rn

 

[Rahz]

I've had several iffy connections using the Pico connectors. If they're seated wrong it can be hard to tell visually.

 

[bassman999]

Hopefully not a bad driver

 

[Waiks]

We are back online!



I think it was one of the connections between the solderless stars and the cobs. I was using a wire nut because I had ran out of slide on connectors. That or the connection between the driver and the wire was no good. Funny thing is, the lights and cab seem noticably brighter than before... Also, they all start up faster.

Stoked it was an easy solution. No parts needed replacing except a couple wire connectors and wire. One of the cheaper parts of builds but super important nonetheless.


THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP!
I LOVE YOU

 

[bassman999]

Glad to see ist working and no driver needed replacement

 

[J-Icky]

It could be the pico ezmates as they are only rated for something like 130v, so keep an eye on those and consider soldering them in the future.