Going commercial

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
Diy cxb 3590 3500ºk 36V CD x 4 on a MW hlg-185-1400b...about 220w...cooled by a big hs 40x6.6x1.4 inch cut in 4 pieces of 10 with a 120mm fan @4.5v on each...I split my 3.5x3.5 box in four and put a mono cob panel in the middle of each quarter to have the best light spread possible and it vegg and bloom better than any hps or mh I know! 1 cxb can light a 2x2 area but it is better over 1.5x1.5 @1400mA...!
But the panels people sell here are very good...I understand it is not possible to space each cxb from 18inch to each other...it will be too big!
But for me it sound logical to space well the cob to use all the available light to prevent leaves bleaching and get the best of
those hps killerz!
I said more than gpw...I guess because it is my first cob bloom...1.3/1.5gpw...compare to my other grow under 600hps (I want to throw it away from me...I will as soon as possible...no more heat...more light!) It is not comparison...I have a cheese clone in each to see evolution...it is like there's 2 weeks difference and they are healthier, greener, bigger...one third to half less nutes, soil don't dry too much on the top, cool temps 26ºc without extra/in just a square fan...
I use soil + coco 20% + EWC 20% + zeolite 5% + perlite 5% and batguano bloom + flourworm guano 22-47-34! (Strong shit...lol!) Tap water (48h rest) and molasses 1/week...even with half doses i had claws and the very end of some leaves burn almost nothing but the one under hps use 3 times liquid organic grow and some more EWC and guanos...just a bit of flourworm casting no more! Hps are light green and cob dark green...!
Buying cob is the best advice I can give to a good friend...to make him happy!!!
Have a great day ★
 

BiG PuFFer

Well-Known Member
For the first half of your post i have no idea what your talking about.

Are you saying COB out preforms hid?
How is the resin production with them?
If one of the colors in the chip burns out can they be fixed at home like they advertise?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
For the first half of your post i have no idea what your talking about.

Are you saying COB out preforms hid?
How is the resin production with them?
If one of the colors in the chip burns out can they be fixed at home like they advertise?
@littlejacob DIY'ed his own panel of CXB3590 chips. He built some on individual heat sinks so he could spread them further apart.

He's been raving in several threads now about the performance difference between his old 600W HPS and his new chips. He's mentioned better color on the plants and much faster flowering response just above and elsewhere.

I don't believe he's currently using anything but CXB3590 chips, I think he's mentioned a panel but I'm not sure if he owns one or was just discussing what he'd seen here.

Of course CXB3590 is a broad spectrum light emitter, 80CRI, your choice of color temperatures from 2700 Kelvin on up to 6500 so it's all the same 'color'. The chips themselves are easily replaceable for those with a small amount of ability to assemble small electronics. At forty bucks a pop, they are also not cheap.
 

BiG PuFFer

Well-Known Member
Im looking to purchase a led or cob light from an established company with proven results.
I don't really need to know all the tech and specs.
Im just a grower. I want the best light for my money and the right spectrum and intensity.
And i need this light in the next week or two. I've heard good things about the CX-9 from Johnson lights, by the owner. I was originally intrested in the KIND 750w and I've heard good and bad stuff about that too. I just want the best bang for my buck and best light for the plants.
 
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topcat

Well-Known Member
Im looking to purchase a led or cob light from an established company with proven results.
I don't really need to know all the tech and specs.
Im just a grower. I want the best light for my lights and the right spectrum and intensity.
And i need this light in the next week or two. I've heard good things about the CX-9 from Johnson lights, by the owner. I was originally intrested in the KIND 750w and I've heard good and bad stuff about that too. I just want the best bang for my buck and best light for the plants.

Choose a COB. I'm a dinosaur and a novice to this, so I've been absorbing pages of DIY and grow shows for about 2 weeks. I'm still learning the tech-speak. I decided on Area 51 W90 because I like the modular design and low price. There are only a handful of manufacturers and some of them are out of stock frequently, particularly Area 51. It's a young sector and hasn't fully grown. The light by Johnson looks good. I know nothing about it. Others that get high marks are Optic and Tasty led. The good thing is, at this time, the lamp makers I've researched are concentrating on quality first.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Lol this IS @Rahz 's thread about his LED panel building company... TASTY LED!

I'd say if anyone has any questions about his product lineup, here is the very best place to ask him.

I went with a custom builder for my panels because I had some specific needs to fill, but the chips and drivers I'm using are the same as Tasty's or equivalent (I'm running Meanwell drivers, not sure if this is the exact same or not). Johnson Grow Lights also uses the same chips from Cree and same/similar drivers. He's also on RIU, has his own forum, so it would be appropriate to discuss his equipment there instead of on the competition's thread. Just lookin' out for everybody.

If the panel comes from China, frankly I'm not interested.
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
i really prefer fanless led units..ie high bays..can these 3590's be run with just heat sinks..?

if so how high out put watts before its not good..

and installing no lenses
and reflectorless would allow for more heat dissapation??
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
thanks yes passive and wonder how high wattage one can run a 100 watta 3590 or if i could have two to 4 0n a 10 " unit

@ 50 w each

re lenses.. but but ..i read here[its true ..its true..i read it on the interent..]..how at least one of the resident led cool guys[compliment] are using big cree cobs sans lenses..

i am ok with lenses though..
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
thanks yes passive and wonder how high wattage one can run a 100 watta 3590 or if i could have two to 4 0n a 10 " unit

@ 50 w each

re lenses.. but but ..i read here[its true ..its true..i read it on the interent..]..how at least one of the resident led cool guys[compliment] are using big cree cobs sans lenses..

i am ok with lenses though..
There are better guys than me to get into the finer points of heat sink limits and lenses.

Suffice to say that in my own design, I chose active cooling and lenses to answer concerns about focusing enough light to the target and protecting the COB chip itself from either thermal or physical damage.

That's obviously a design choice and you may conclude differently based on your needs and situation. I'm not well enough verses in the particulars to be able to offer more specific advice.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
ye i know thanks anyway..i was just hoping to get a definitive answer

i want enought light too..i can use extra heat..
@Rahz will surely be more than happy to explain his panels, their construction and design philosophy in detail.

I believe you'll find it difficult to improve on his products' performance even if you DIY to save money and get the best components. I speak from recent personal experience!
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
thanks..i just like certain highbay designs and wish to incorporate with cree cobs

if he makes panels for sale i would jump on em ....but i also live in another country
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
A general rule of thumb is 120 sq/cm per watt for a passive design. This is based on heat dissipated. You can determine that by using the efficiency of the cob at your chosen drive current. A CXB3590 for example at 2.1 amps will produce about 39 watts of heat and need 4680 sq/cm of heat sink surface to keep temps down in the 40s.
 

littlejacob

Well-Known Member
Bonjour
I don't have lens nor reflector...and I maybe will use 90º reflector when I will have 1 per sq/ft @700mA...
Why focus a light with cob placed so tight?
My guess is for safety...no more mo less...I know my panels don't like sprayed water...I will never do that...but with commercial panels you can...commercial panels bleach the leaves mine don't...it is because of lens and too many light beam crossing! IMO
Have a great day ★
 

OLD MOTHER SATIVA

Well-Known Member
A general rule of thumb is 120 sq/cm per watt for a passive design. This is based on heat dissipated. You can determine that by using the efficiency of the cob at your chosen drive current. A CXB3590 for example at 2.1 amps will produce about 39 watts of heat and need 4680 sq/cm of heat sink surface to keep temps down in the 40s.
i think its too tech for me



but is AREA " just" the factor and if my heat sync had fins and "mass.." ie. depth not just sq cm's..would that not allow me to use
a smaller area?

like a thicker, 10 circular finned highbay:

i am trying so hard[not hard] to "not" sound like i know anything

but using just sq # of sq cm does not compute..what about thermal mass and yes the fins have sq cm's too

forget me i am in too deep..lol
 
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