DUET 2400 (LED FIXTURE) - UP TO 2400 WATTS (Flip Chip Opto)

[Johnnycannaseed1]

It would be like a photon torpedo in a tent. A phaser on stun more appropriate. But it is dimmable. Lighting a bowl with propane torch maybe. Smaller coming, right?
Super incandescent on the horizon. Big red present there. CRI is what it is is. Yep, I did say that.

The issue I have with these Giant "spot" light fixtures, is that such a design is not really utilising the true advantage LED tech has to offer, e.g splitting that 2400watts down into 10 smaller spots spaced out would equal a better distribution of the light over a like for like footprint and you would achieve a more uniform growth pattern over the entire canopy.

Sometimes more equals less, think light saturation, photo-inhibition on centre even if such a fixture was hung at say 3 feet away, this now limits where such a lamp can be used.

With regards to dimming it seems kind of pointless to buy a fixture that you could only ever run at say 50% of it's max potential, you might as well get a smaller, cheaper fixture.

The only place I can see such a lamp finding a suitable home, is in a glasshouse setting.

 

[Johnnycannaseed1]

The result is ... a mixture of absorptance & RQE per nanometer ...
A combined curve that shows the overall photosynthetic potential (! ) per nanometer ...

View attachment 3586772
The highest " photosynthetic potentional " ( PP ) ,at the range of 400-700 nm ,
is located at 625 nm ( PP=0.893 ) .

Interesting curve SDS I like it, although I must say I have a slightly different take on your curve although it is not a million miles away from what you have produced here.

Being the steady Eddie that I am I want to test mine out first before committing lol. I think in the interest of progress it would be great to get your curve produced as well and run some comparative tests to see how each one stacks up, if I can get it sorted I shall let you know.

 

[tstick]

I really like the idea of super-powered COB chips!

As far as power and intensity go, I would rather have a fixture with 4 super COBs being run at 50% or 25% -with the option to increase the intensity via some kind of potentiometer (or whatever way), than I would to have a fixture with a bunch of traditional COBs being under driven -with no headroom. I'd rather have the horsepower and not use it…unless I happened to be growing some strain that likes super-intense light….in which case, I've got that extra power.

And what with all these new anduino controllers…a super powerful light like the one the OP is showing, could be controlled to come on dim with a blue spectrum (a la morning light)….and then come up to extreme power white light at "noon" and then begin to dim down at the end of the cycle with more of the yellow/red spectrum accentuated. That application insofar as grow lights are concerned, seems awesome to me!

I think it's a great new product/idea! More power to you! (pun intended!)

 

[Johnnycannaseed1]

And what with all these new anduino controllers…a super powerful light like the one the OP is showing, could be controlled to come on dim with a blue spectrum (a la morning light)….and then come up to extreme power white light at "noon" and then begin to dim down at the end of the cycle with more of the yellow/red spectrum accentuated. That application insofar as grow lights are concerned, seems awesome to me!

I think it's a great new product/idea! More power to you! (pun intended!)

Ok let me put it another way... You could never run that light full power in your "noon" scenario unless you had a seriously tall room lol.

Lets say for arguments sake you want to grow 6 foot tall plants in a 6 x 6 footprint, how far away do you think you would have to hang that light above the canopy in order to be able to take it up to full power, and thus realize its full potential?

This game is all about efficiency and how much yield can I get out of a given area, lets take the 6 x 6 foot example above and lets say the room is 10 foot high, well in that scenario with the right LED set up I could could grow triple stack, with a 2.5 foot high scrog on each level, and I could illuminate each level comfortably with around let's say 500 watts a level. In that scenario I can guarantee you for 900 watts less power I could produce over double, possibly even triple what that 2400 watt fixture could in exactly the same footprint, so not only would I be producing more, I would actually be using less electricity to boot, which equals a far more efficent grow.

That is why I cannot see such a lamp working out in the average growroom, and that is why I say such a fixture would be more at home in a glasshouse setting.

 

[tstick]

I guess it would be best to apply that 2400 watt fixture driven at half power in a huge greenhouse setting….and I know some people who run a 30,000square foot recreational grow facility, so they would be interested in knowing more about this light.

But, for me, in my small grow, I could definitely see using one of the 300 watt super COBs being driven at half power (or less) on a dimmer and then being able to open it up wide, if I want….same scenario as I described before. The "noon" power would only be on for awhile, anyway.

 

[Johnnycannaseed1]

For sure a 300watt COB would work out in your average growroom although if you want a lamp that draws a max 300 watt I would suggest going for a larger chip say a 450watt and driving it at guessitmate maximum 60-70% of its max power rating in order to preserve the life of chip...Rather than running a 300watt at a 100% for any length of time.

I guess you should speak to the guys at opto chip to find out if the above 60 -70% drive would be ok both short term and long term, because below a certain current the COB's efficiency will drop off, and the same goes for above a certain current so it's about finding out the sweet spot range of their chips

 

[Yodaweed]

That thing kinda seems like a waste, 2400 watts for one light I mean how high are you gonna hang that thing and then it loses intensity... I think for gardening a 300-600 watt led would be more useful.

 

[hillbill]

Nice pail of yellow perch.

 

[URSA LED]

Ok let me put it another way... You could never run that light full power in your "noon" scenario unless you had a seriously tall room lol.

Lets say for arguments sake you want to grow 6 foot tall plants in a 6 x 6 footprint, how far away do you think you would have to hang that light above the canopy in order to be able to take it up to full power, and thus realize its full potential?

This game is all about efficiency and how much yield can I get out of a given area, lets take the 6 x 6 foot example above and lets say the room is 10 foot high, well in that scenario with the right LED set up I could could grow triple stack, with a 2.5 foot high scrog on each level, and I could illuminate each level comfortably with around let's say 500 watts a level. In that scenario I can guarantee you for 900 watts less power I could produce over double, possibly even triple what that 2400 watt fixture could in exactly the same footprint, so not only would I be producing more, I would actually be using less electricity to boot, which equals a far more efficent grow.

That is why I cannot see such a lamp working out in the average growroom, and that is why I say such a fixture would be more at home in a glasshouse setting.

Hi There!

You are absolutely correct. The Duet 2400 is designed for large commercial grow facilities. Yes, the marijuana industry is huge, but in countries where marijuana is not legal (not even medical), we are seeing the orchid, ginseng, and other high value crops switching to LED grow lights. Greenhouses, huge hydro farms that produce lettuce, etc.

 

[bassman999]

The issue I have with these Giant "spot" light fixtures, is that such a design is not really utilising the true advantage LED tech has to offer, e.g splitting that 2400watts down into 10 smaller spots spaced out would equal a better distribution of the light over a like for like footprint and you would achieve a more uniform growth pattern over the entire canopy.

Sometimes more equals less, think light saturation, photo-inhibition on centre even if such a fixture was hung at say 3 feet away, this now limits where such a lamp can be used.

With regards to dimming it seems kind of pointless to buy a fixture that you could only ever run at say 50% of it's max potential, you might as well get a smaller, cheaper fixture.

The only place I can see such a lamp finding a suitable home, is in a glasshouse setting.

I see it this way, if you have a 400hp Cadillac, that can go 155mph, should you go that fast all the time?
Maybe it would make more sense not to allow 100% dimming control to pass 65% of the max current so it isnt fully revved ever since not only is it too powerful, but its not efficient,
A 1200 watt cob at full power may be 30% less efficient than the 2400watt dimmed to 50%.
It may seem like wasted potential, but it really gained efficiency and reliability

 

[Johnnycannaseed1]

Hi There!

You are absolutely correct. The Duet 2400 is designed for large commercial grow facilities. Yes, the marijuana industry is huge, but in countries where marijuana is not legal (not even medical), we are seeing the orchid, ginseng, and other high value crops switching to LED grow lights. Greenhouses, huge hydro farms that produce lettuce, etc.

Hi Alex,

Your answer here makes perfect sense, with regards to slotting your 2400watt fixture into a commercial agri type setting.

I have thought of another potential application for your light, not sure if your company has considered it but it would be perfect for stadium lighting and high bay warehouse lighting applications albeit with a much simpler spectrum/chip set up.

With the type of power you are able to crank out with that fixture I reckon it is another avenue for your company to explore as that type of powerful fixture would be perfect in those settings also.

Good luck on your venture

 

[Johnnycannaseed1]

I see it this way, if you have a 400hp Cadillac, that can go 155mph, should you go that fast all the time?
Maybe it would make more sense not to allow 100% dimming control to pass 65% of the max current so it isnt fully revved ever since not only is it too powerful, but its not inefficient,
A 1200 watt cob at full power if maybe 30% less efficient than the 2400watt dimmed to 50%.
It may seem like wasted potential, but it really gained efficiency and reliability

Kind of said that in my post below, guess you missed it

For sure a 300watt COB would work out in your average growroom although if you want a lamp that draws a max 300 watt I would suggest going for a larger chip say a 450watt and driving it at guessitmate maximum 60-70% of its max power rating in order to preserve the life of chip...Rather than running a 300watt at a 100% for any length of time.

I guess you should speak to the guys at opto chip to find out if the above 60 -70% drive would be ok both short term and long term, because below a certain current the COB's efficiency will drop off, and the same goes for above a certain current so it's about finding out the sweet spot range of their chips

 

[bassman999]

Kind of said that in my post below, guess you missed it

Yeah missed it. I was skimming on my way out the door

 

[littlejacob]

For sure a 300watt COB would work out in your average growroom although if you want a lamp that draws a max 300 watt I would suggest going for a larger chip say a 450watt and driving it at guessitmate maximum 60-70% of its max power rating in order to preserve the life of chip...Rather than running a 300watt at a 100% for any length of time.

I guess you should speak to the guys at opto chip to find out if the above 60 -70% drive would be ok both short term and long term, because below a certain current the COB's efficiency will drop off, and the same goes for above a certain current so it's about finding out the sweet spot range of their chips

Bonjour
You said that driving our cob too low will decrease efficiency at some point...I always heard the contrary...lower we run them higher Is efficiency!
I have cxb 3590(137w) @1400mA (half nominal current...50w)...some use it @700mA (23w) some even [email protected] when it will become less efficient...not according to datasheet!!!
CU

 

[URSA LED]

Hi Alex,

Your answer here makes perfect sense, with regards to slotting your 2400watt fixture into a commercial agri type setting.

I have thought of another potential application for your light, not sure if your company has considered it but it would be perfect for stadium lighting and high bay warehouse lighting applications albeit with a much simpler spectrum/chip set up.

With the type of power you are able to crank out with that fixture I reckon it is another avenue for your company to explore as that type of powerful fixture would be perfect in those settings also.

Good luck on your venture

Hi Johnnycannaseed1,

Thanks for the suggestion! We actually have another team working on general lighting (stadium, lighthouses, airports).
The Acer Aspire Park in Taiwan is actually fitted with our lights. You might be able to find some youtube videos from early testing from our team in Taiwan.

We're also in talks with border patrol lighting, but that's classified atm-

-Alex

 

[coolbreez1]

I saw the press release about the Acer Aspire Park in Taiwan a few days before this post went live on the board here, talking about Flip Chip Opto, and your patented process which removes a layer of substrate and creates a far better thermal transfer?

I would agree with Johnnycannaseed1, ideal applications for commercial agriculture, in the long run, will be shelving systems with lower powered LEDs maybe in the 100 watt range, allowing one to better utilize vertical space. For example if I am running 100 watt lights why not grow two levels of 3 foot tall plants in a 8 foot tall space. Lower veg time, faster turn over per sq ft.... why bother with 8 feet of head room if you can avoid it?

 

[ttystikk]

And this is our team testing it for the first time.

Haven't you guys ever heard of sunglasses? Geez!

 

[Grandpa GreenJeans]

Sorry but this Proto looks alot like the spectrum king. We're not trying to copy cat are we? I remember the crap Chinese panels on ebay, all blue and red. While plants do have peak wavelengths in the blue and red, they still need the caratenoids from the yellow and orange. White light is for a high CRI and allows short wave to travel further.
You better come out with some white light amongst all those reds and blues.
And..... it doesn't matter the amount of power your drivers deliver or your cobs can handle, what matters is the quality of light. 2400w of improper spectrum is worth jackshit.

 

[sethimus]

Sorry but this Proto looks alot like the spectrum king. We're not trying to copy cat are we? I remember the crap Chinese panels on ebay, all blue and red. While plants do have peak wavelengths in the blue and red, they still need the caratenoids from the yellow and orange. White light is for a high CRI and allows short wave to travel further.
You better come out with some white light amongst all those reds and blues.
And..... it doesn't matter the amount of power your drivers deliver or your cobs can handle, what matters is the quality of light. 2400w of improper spectrum is worth jackshit.

op already stated the intended use for that chip, read it again and try do understand it this time

 

[2cent]

Haven't you guys ever heard of sunglasses? Geez!

gg lol hahz
Aldo
They tested it in an office off lol...makes sence for grow light....
Wait look In the distance there is an office plant looks about 30foot from light
Is it from seed? And is first time you test so bout 1hr growth yeah?