RDWC UC configuration

Velvet Elvis

Well-Known Member
hook this up to intake or exhaust fan. the new lights from dimlux have pretty sweet vapor pressure deficit settings along with tmp ones.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015RZX68?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


i bought the danner 700 and it doesnt seem like much flow, i thought it would be rumbling, swishing. more of a gentle flow.

danner 1200 might be better and you future proof urself if you ever add 4 more buckets. definitely need much better airpump. i have the airforce one and it is sweet and much cheaper than alita etc
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
hook this up to intake or exhaust fan. the new lights from dimlux have pretty sweet vapor pressure deficit settings along with tmp ones.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015RZX68?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00


i bought the danner 700 and it doesnt seem like much flow, i thought it would be rumbling, swishing. more of a gentle flow.

danner 1200 might be better and you future proof urself if you ever add 4 more buckets. definitely need much better airpump. i have the airforce one and it is sweet and much cheaper than alita etc
Good advice, thx
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
Should I go with an air force pro 40, 60, or 80? I'll be aerating the 4 grow containers, the controller, and the barrel reservoir
 

two2brains

Well-Known Member
Should I go with an air force pro 40, 60, or 80? I'll be aerating the 4 grow containers, the controller, and the barrel reservoir
And convert your gallons to liters and half of that is the least size you'll want your air pump.

For the water pump you'll want to circulate your rez every 5 mins so multiply your gallons by 12 and that will be your minimum pump size.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
And convert your gallons to liters and half of that is the least size you'll want your air pump.

For the water pump you'll want to circulate your rez every 5 mins so multiply your gallons by 12 and that will be your minimum pump size.

Great advice. Thanks
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
You may have misunderstood me. I was referring to the inside of the tent. You know how you hang a wired thermostat sensor from your hood so you know how warm the top of the canopy is getting? Same concept, only the sensor would be attached to the ballast. When the canopy reaches the threshold temp (say 85 degrees), the ballast automatically drops to 600w. The ballast would probably have a waiting period so the tent cools down before taking readings again.

Then, say, the temp at the canopy drops below the minimum threshold. If it was at 600w, the ballast could switch to 1000w.

Make more sense?

I think this would be an awesome tool to have. Especially if you're away and some hot days hit.
that's what gavitas do. if they are running at 1150w, and it senses the bulb area (not the canopy) is getting too hot, it will drop down to 1000 or 750 until it cools itself down and then will ramp back up.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
that's what gavitas do. if they are running at 1150w, and it senses the bulb area (not the canopy) is getting too hot, it will drop down to 1000 or 750 until it cools itself down and then will ramp back up.
I see.

I'll check them out. Doubt I'll need one, but thought it'd be a cool idea if it didn't exist.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
I see.

I'll check them out. Doubt I'll need one, but thought it'd be a cool idea if it didn't exist.
i thought it is pretty cool idea. those DE bulbs have to run at a hot temp to keep their output proper.

just wonder with a regular HPS bulb if it would mess it up if it was ramping up and down from 600 to 1000 on a regular basis? but you could be on to the next big idea! retire early.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
i thought it is pretty cool idea. those DE bulbs have to run at a hot temp to keep their output proper.

just wonder with a regular HPS bulb if it would mess it up if it was ramping up and down from 600 to 1000 on a regular basis? but you could be on to the next big idea! retire early.
I thought of presenting my idea to one of the ballast makers, but I think they're all made in China :-)

Anyways, already retired early...not to say a bit more wouldn't be nice.

But you're right, switching voltages may effect the bulb. But, maybe the bad effects don't take place until you've depleted the usable light.

Who knows. Hey, I need a partner out there who can handle all the BS, and I'll just be the "idea" man lol
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
And yeah, I was having trouble wrapping my head around the DE bulbs and how to keep the tent from getting too hot. I don't get it and I don't see it mentioned much so maybe it's still in its infancy, like LEDs.

It's been a year since I've researched LEDs. Are they ready to compete with a 600w yet?
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
And convert your gallons to liters and half of that is the least size you'll want your air pump.

For the water pump you'll want to circulate your rez every 5 mins so multiply your gallons by 12 and that will be your minimum pump size.
I estimated 80 gallons which gave me 960gph needed. I'm also going to have a 1/10th hp chiller. I'm guessing that going with the danner 1200gph would easily account for that, right?
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
It's been a year since I've researched LEDs. Are they ready to compete with a 600w yet?
definitely so. performance wise they are probably better with the full spectrum LEDs. cost wise and i think depth of canopy penetration HPS is hard to beat.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
i would double check that. i have a 1/10 but with maybe 20 to 30 gallons. chillers are like fans, better too much than too little.
gotcha

For 80 gallons I'm going with the danner 12 supreme 1200gph

For air, I am a little confused about the formula above. The numbers weren't giving me the pumps I was expecting. But, I would have to imagine one of the following would suffice:


BTW, I'm looking properly add the amount of bubbled for a true DWC, not just add some bubbles.

Apollo Horticulture 80 Watt 70-LPM Commercial Air Pump
Air Force Pro 80 Linear Air Pump

Alita 60
Alita 80


Am I in the right ballpark with these?

Also, these are the air stones I'll be running AIRSTONES
Those seem to be the most suggested.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
So maybe look at the 1/4hp?
i would. there is a formula for selecting chiller size. maybe check the webstite for the chiller manufacturers. if you plan on running your nute solution thru it, a titanium one would be better. but more expensive. i ran mine thru a wort chiller (homebrewing websites) with just plain water from a stand alone bucket into the wort chiller which was in my control tub.

i didn't run any airstones in my rdwc. i built a top watering fill system with some pvc fittings that i drilled holes in to create a waterfall in the top of each grow tote. and then a drain at the bottom of each tote to go back to the control tub. i think my pump was maybe 700gpm. waterfalls are better than airstones. and they don't clog up like stones do.
 

JSB99

Well-Known Member
i didn't run any airstones in my rdwc. i built a top watering fill system with some pvc fittings that i drilled holes in to create a waterfall in the top of each grow tote. and then a drain at the bottom of each tote to go back to the control tub. i think my pump was maybe 700gpm. waterfalls are better than airstones. and they don't clog up like stones do.
Interesting. I did something like that, only with sprayers. Roots hung in air and water drained after misted. Had trouble with clogging though. I could see how drips wouldn't have much of an issue with that. Would certainly save a lot of money.

Do you keep a constant drip, or 15 minute inc?
 
Top