I am in the second week of flowering in a DWC set up in a 2x2.5 tent with a 400w HPS, using a GH Lucas Formula and I have been dealing with severe Rams horn on some of the new growth and more of the older growth with tip clawing. PPM 1290 (.50 conv), PH5.8, RH 47% day time and 60% at night. Have stopped LST and the overall growth/health seems good, but I am worried about this condition affecting the quality. Please let me know what you think.I have attached some pics for the teams evaluation.
Need Help with Claw and Rams Horn Leaf Tips
- Thread starter Tman20
- Start date
two2brains
Well-Known Member
What is your water temp? How do your roots look? Do you have anything in the rez water that looks like pepper? Are you using cal mag?
Solution Temps are 66F; Roots are white to light tan and rez solution looks and smells clean. I'm using CaliMag with my RO water.
two2brains
Well-Known Member
Wow ok everything seems ok. It kinda looks like a potassium problem but if your ph levels have been right the whole grow it shouldn't be on gh Nutes.
Have you ran that strain before? Are you running other strains with the same problem? It could be a genetic disorder.
Have you ran that strain before? Are you running other strains with the same problem? It could be a genetic disorder.
This is my first ever grow. It is a hybrid NL indica strain so I guess it could be genetics. I think I had a Mag Def early on but the CaliMag has seemed to have corrected that. I still have some yellow spotting on some of the older veg but not on the new growth. I just have not seen the radical curling of leaf tips on any of the researching I've done.
Resinhound
Well-Known Member
The plants telling you its had enough,thats the start of a nitrogen toxicity.If you stay the course my guess is it will be fine.However if the clawing gets worse ,id drop that ppm down a bit.Keep in mind when those leaves are curled up they cant do their job.
TheFuture
Well-Known Member
How often do you change your reservoir? I feel like you too high of a pH even though 5.8 is good range and have lockout occurring on the Fe and maybe toxicity of Potassium or Phosphorous. Plus you have some stressing due to mites. What do the roots look like? are they white and fuzzy? or yellow? god forbid brown or slimy.
I missed that it was in second week of flowering AND 1200ppm. I agree with @Resinhound you need to back off the nutes a little for transition.
I missed that it was in second week of flowering AND 1200ppm. I agree with @Resinhound you need to back off the nutes a little for transition.
Thanks Resinhound & Future. I will go ahead and dilute down a couple 100PPM and see if it improves. I change my rez every 7 days religiously which was just done yesterday. I had these conditions before then. As for pest, I sprayed Neems Oil a week ago, and that also seemed to stress the girls even though I sprayed PH neutral H2o a couple days ago to wash off the Neems. Are either one of you guys recommending a flush at this point? Is the light green color of the new growth a concern? What would you lower your PH to?
Resinhound
Well-Known Member
the light green of new growth is fine,when it hardens off it will darken up,I think in flower i like the higher end of the PH scale 6.0-6.2 or so to help with the uptake of P and K ,calcium during the budding phase.
Alaric
Well-Known Member
Hey Tman,
First grow----thus new grower mistakes.
If this ec conversion chart is correct and the parameters you gave are accurate.
~1300 ppm, .5 conversion is 2.6 ec--------or 1820 ppm, .7------way too strong.
I suggest drop it down about half, take a
, cross you fingers and toes, and see what happens. If that doesn't work, more detective work required.A~~~
TheFuture
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't flush. Changing res every 7 days is Kosher. Wait until the end to flush. For now just run same nutes either less or mixed with more water to dilute it down. I'd say now that maybe even less of a P K problem, because I suspect Neem oil as to causing the leaf burn spots. If you apply Neem oil with the lights on at any point the oil is still on the surface wet, it will act as a heat sink or magnifying glass and burn the surface of the plant that it is in contact with. Also, neem being a thick oil will coat the leaf surface until it is dried. This will cause asphyxiation of the plant cells underneath if left too wet for too long.
When I transition plants organically, I am usually around 900-1000ppm and I drop them down to 750ppm for the two week transition period. They yellow a little but I am still feeding Ca Fe Mg and Micros foliar because I flush between transitions hydro or dirt. With DWC I was getting up to about 2000ppm, dropped it down to 1250ppm for the transition. In both cases, I would go right back to wherever I topped out at before transition on the next feeding.
A~~~, good to talk to you again. Sounds like I have a couple issues going on. Hopefully the Neems Oil knocked out the pest and I'm running too hot on my nutes. If you recall I switched from GH Flora Simple to the Lucas Formula at a 7/14 strength instead of the recommended 8/16, but may have switched too close to the flowering transition period. But as you said, I'm making newbie mistakes, and hopefully will learn from them.Hey Tman,
First grow----thus new grower mistakes.
If this ec conversion chart is correct and the parameters you gave are accurate.
~1300 ppm, .5 conversion is 2.6 ec--------or 1820 ppm, .7------way too strong.
I suggest drop it down about half, take a
A~~~
Thanks Future, that all makes good sense. What do you recommend for pest treatment. I just ordered some Hot Shot vapor strips from amazon. Have you ever used any of these?
http://www.hotshot.com/Products-and-Solutions/All-Products/No-Pest-Strip.aspx
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Alaric
Well-Known Member
So your running that dry powder mix instead of the gh flora?
I strongly suggest getting your nute strength down.
As for the critters----if spider mites-----only way I've ever gotten rid of them----AVID, highly concentrated, half life of 30 days. Can be ordered on-line
NEVER APPLY WITHIN 30 DAYS OF HARVEST.
Just pray to the weed gods you never get white flies.
A~~~
No, I am still using the GH Flora Micro and Bloom liquid (no Grow), but I'm mixing at a Micro=7ml/gal and Bloom=14ml/gal instead of Lucas recommended 8/16 ratio. I'm running with you guys advise to lower my PPM. I just diluted down to 1100 PPM from 1300, it sounds like I need to go more?
Alaric
Well-Known Member
Something doesn't sound right. Are you sure your ppm meter is .5 conversion?
Yes, I would go down some more to around 800 ppm and watch the leaf symptoms.
A~~~
70's natureboy
Well-Known Member
Nutes are definitely too strong. I hope you aren't confusing your meter readings with PPM's. Everything else sounds fine.
Nute strength has been lowered to around 800 PPM on my CWP Monitor.
Please explain comment on "I hope you aren't confusing your meter readings with PPM".
Thanks
70's natureboy
Well-Known Member
When you included the (.50 conv) in the first post I wasn't sure if the reader is supposed to convert it or not. If that 1290 was the meter reading then the PPM's would be way high.