frica
Well-Known Member
A LED will only pull an X amount of Volt with a given current.
The Vero 29 pulls between 36-38V @1.4A
www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS33 Vero 29 Array Data Sheet Rev J 20150908.pdf
DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
The Vero 29 pulls between 36-38V @1.4A
www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS33 Vero 29 Array Data Sheet Rev J 20150908.pdf
lostenspacecadet
Active Member
Thanks for input, but answered nothing really. I've read the data sheets. 30v for 18, 37v for 29 @1.4. I'm only pulling 120v total at start. It should be 141v. Why the loss? Temps? Or something else? Anyone know best way to find loss?
Organic Miner
Well-Known Member
One thing you could do is use your multimeter to measure the voltage drop across each cob. The sum should add up to 120v (which you are currently seeing). Remember the specifications are only a range of expected Vf @ the given current. Depending on the grade of the actual batch you received, the "mileage may differ".
Note the power supply your are using is a "constant current" source; meaning that it will provide enough voltage to generate 1.4 amps of current through your circuit. In your case, it only requires 120V to achieve this. The voltage-current curve of an LED is non-linear especially around the "threshold voltage" (the voltage which the LED turns on). Since, the Vero series is meant to be driven "hard" (higher currents) I imagine the threshold knee varies at the lower currents and therefore you are seeing the effects. I bet if you drove those COBS with a 2.1A power supply you would see closer to the expected voltage drops of 37-39V a piece.
There is nothing wrong with your setup, IMO. My 2 cents.
lostenspacecadet
Active Member
Thank you for the response. I'm using v1 veros. I guess they run a little less powerful than current data sheets provide. I was hoping to get 45-50w out of each chip at 1.4a based on data on the sheets provided by bridgelux. Currently getting 160w out of the four on a killawatt. I wondered if they will improve brightness/lumens as they warn up through the day. They were tested on a cold heatsink 60F.
Ok not sure if I've asked this here but was wondering if it would be safe to run 6 Vero 18s ver 2 on an HLG-240H-C1400A driver. I know the amps are fine my only concern is that the driver is rated for 179v max and the cobs would need something like 180.6.
I know all about low amps better efficiency but I want to be able to crank it up when needed and could still run it as low as 700mah most of the time. Just would hate to spend that much just to overdrive and kill the driver when I know I can use the C185A safely but without the ability to run them hard if needed.
I know all about low amps better efficiency but I want to be able to crank it up when needed and could still run it as low as 700mah most of the time. Just would hate to spend that much just to overdrive and kill the driver when I know I can use the C185A safely but without the ability to run them hard if needed.
Organic Miner
Well-Known Member
Like I said in the previous post, these are constant current drivers, they will max out at 1.4A and whatever voltage that takes. in your case, the maximum voltage is 179V so you will be maxed out. The power supply should take this no problem because the spec says so. Even though you COBs would like 180.6V, they are not going to get it. So imagine the Vf of each COB is slight less than desired, i.e. 179/6. This means you will be just down the V-I curve.
The power supply is rated for this output according to the specs:
http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/HLG-240H-C/HLG-240H-C-spec.pdf
Attachments
REALSTYLES
Well-Known Member
You are all good, I checked the driver spread sheet.
ReddEyez
Well-Known Member
Hey guys, hope all is good today. After searching for a couple hours this morning for some affordable drivers I came across this site. Man they seem to have tons of drivers to choose and they are located in the US. (Pennsylvania) Im interested in the open frame Meanwells. They seem to be ALOT cheaper, and from looking at the specs would serve our purpose well. Am i missing something? Does anyone have any experience with this style driver? If so, what is the best way to remotely mount them? Thank you for your help.
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/
http://www.trcelectronics.com/48-volt-power-supply.shtml
http://www.trcelectronics.com/48-volt-power-supplies-open-frame-1.shtml
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/RPS-60-48.shtml
EDIT: I thought the open face drivers were 24-48v but looks like a straight 48v. I dont know if that is 0-48v or a constant 48v. I am assuming constant 48v. Damn it! Oh well, i tried.
http://www.trcelectronics.com/Meanwell/
http://www.trcelectronics.com/48-volt-power-supply.shtml
http://www.trcelectronics.com/48-volt-power-supplies-open-frame-1.shtml
http://www.trcelectronics.com/View/Mean-Well/RPS-60-48.shtml
EDIT: I thought the open face drivers were 24-48v but looks like a straight 48v. I dont know if that is 0-48v or a constant 48v. I am assuming constant 48v. Damn it! Oh well, i tried.
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stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Well ....Do we have a new player here ?
http://www.led-professional.com/products/led-driver-ics-modules/uel240b-a1z-226515-kv-surge-immunity-3-in-1-dimming-function
http://www.fuhua-cn.com/en/
http://www.fuhua-cn.com/en/product/LEDdianyuan_huna_/LEDhengliudianyuan/list_85_2.html
http://www.fuhua-cn.com/en/LEDdianyuan/huwai/Constant_Current/
They seem to be high quality ones ...
Cheers.
http://www.led-professional.com/products/led-driver-ics-modules/uel240b-a1z-226515-kv-surge-immunity-3-in-1-dimming-function
http://www.fuhua-cn.com/en/
http://www.fuhua-cn.com/en/product/LEDdianyuan_huna_/LEDhengliudianyuan/list_85_2.html
http://www.fuhua-cn.com/en/LEDdianyuan/huwai/Constant_Current/
They seem to be high quality ones ...
Cheers.
kony brado
Well-Known Member
They look like good drivers ,i couldn't find the price on the sites that sells them,without a quotation that is.
Do you have an idea abut prices for the 150,200,240 w ,cc ?
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
nope...They look like good drivers ,i couldn't find the price on the sites that sells them,without a quotation that is.
Do you have an idea abut prices for the 150,200,240 w ,cc ?
kony brado
Well-Known Member
ok thanks,ill try to get some prices and post it for u guys ,i got my mw already 
modular
Member
Hey guys, would appreciate some advice, hopefully is an easy answer for you jedi masters. I currently have 4 cxb3590 cobs (36 v CD) being powered by a hlg 185h-c1400b. Actively cooled by 4 Arctic Alpine 64 Plus fans.
Just picked up a decent watt meter to test the consumption of the panel I just built. I'm getting a reading that the hlg 185h-c1400b is pulling 220 watts from the wall, is this normal? I was under the impression it would be 185 watts - 200 watts max?
Furthermore when I attach a 100 k pot to the dimming wires (using wago connectors), with at the pot at max position it jumps down to 185 watts and will not go any higher?
I've noticed the hlg driver is really warm to touch, is this normal or am I over loading it by not attaching the 100 k and running it 220 watts?
In short, is it all nothing to worry about and fine to continue running it at 220 watts consumption? Its noticeably brighter running at 220 watts in comparison to 185 watts with the 100 k pot installed..
Thanks in advance
Just picked up a decent watt meter to test the consumption of the panel I just built. I'm getting a reading that the hlg 185h-c1400b is pulling 220 watts from the wall, is this normal? I was under the impression it would be 185 watts - 200 watts max?
Furthermore when I attach a 100 k pot to the dimming wires (using wago connectors), with at the pot at max position it jumps down to 185 watts and will not go any higher?
I've noticed the hlg driver is really warm to touch, is this normal or am I over loading it by not attaching the 100 k and running it 220 watts?
In short, is it all nothing to worry about and fine to continue running it at 220 watts consumption? Its noticeably brighter running at 220 watts in comparison to 185 watts with the 100 k pot installed..
Thanks in advance
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Again ...And again ....And again ...Hey guys, would appreciate some advice, hopefully is an easy answer for you jedi masters. I currently have 4 cxb3590 cobs (36 v CD) being powered by a hlg 185h-c1400b. Actively cooled by 4 Arctic Alpine 64 Plus fans.
Just picked up a decent watt meter to test the consumption of the panel I just built. I'm getting a reading that the hlg 185h-c1400b is pulling 220 watts from the wall, is this normal? I was under the impression it would be 185 watts - 200 watts max?
Furthermore when I attach a 100 k pot to the dimming wires (using wago connectors), with at the pot at max position it jumps down to 185 watts and will not go any higher?
I've noticed the hlg driver is really warm to touch, is this normal or am I over loading it by not attaching the 100 k and running it 220 watts?
In short, is it all nothing to worry about and fine to continue running it at 220 watts consumption? Its noticeably brighter running at 220 watts in comparison to 185 watts with the 100 k pot installed..
Thanks in advance
FGS ,read the fuckin' report ,for the HLG 185H-C-1400B ,at MeanWells site ....
When nothing is connected at Dim wires (no pot ,no resistor ...just nothin' ) ,
Most -if not ALL- the CC drivers featuring 3in1 dimming ,output more current than the rated .
Your driver is not outputting 1400 mA ,but ~1570 mA .
Plus the losses from the driver ( as it has a max efficiency of 94% ) .
That's why you get 220 W power dissipation from the wall ,instead of 185 or 200 W .
So ,the calculation goes like this :
At 1570 mA ,and with a Tc of ~40°C ,each CXB3590 will have a Vf of ~ 34,7 V ( roughly )
You use 4 of them ..
4 * 34,7 = 138.8 VDC
138.8 * 1,57 = 217,9 W ( total power dissipation at the DC side )
P ac * eff = P dc => P ac = P dc / eff
217,9/0.94 = 231,8 W ( total power dissipation at the AC side )...
That's the figure you should be getting ,from your power meter ...
( consider also the tolerance / accuracy of your power meter )
Is it clear to u now ?
Nothin' to worry about ...
Cheers.
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alesh
Well-Known Member
Yes it's pretty normal. When the dimming wires are disconnected, 102-108% of rated current flows through. The driver is 94% efficient. And this together makes 220W at the wall.Hey guys, would appreciate some advice, hopefully is an easy answer for you jedi masters. I currently have 4 cxb3590 cobs (36 v CD) being powered by a hlg 185h-c1400b. Actively cooled by 4 Arctic Alpine 64 Plus fans.
Just picked up a decent watt meter to test the consumption of the panel I just built. I'm getting a reading that the hlg 185h-c1400b is pulling 220 watts from the wall, is this normal? I was under the impression it would be 185 watts - 200 watts max?
Furthermore when I attach a 100 k pot to the dimming wires (using wago connectors), with at the pot at max position it jumps down to 185 watts and will not go any higher?
I've noticed the hlg driver is really warm to touch, is this normal or am I over loading it by not attaching the 100 k and running it 220 watts?
In short, is it all nothing to worry about and fine to continue running it at 220 watts consumption? Its noticeably brighter running at 220 watts in comparison to 185 watts with the 100 k pot installed..
Thanks in advance
Lower quality pots usually have 20% (or even 30%) tolerance. Lot of them is <100K (I'm often getting 85K). Your driver probably runs at lower current even with the pot at max.
e:SDS beat me there.
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
We were noobs ourselves ,once upon a time ,brother ..
But I've the feelin' ,that we used to do more extensive research ,than the today's noobs ...
Or maybe we had better "gurus" (see @guod ,for example) ,than we 're ourselves ,today ...
Anyway ...
I might start writin' a book about "Solid State Lighting & Cannabis Horticulture " ....
Who knows ?
I might get awarded with the next Pulitzer prize !
alesh
Well-Known Member
Well, I certainly was a noob (not sure how it's improved). I was just desperately searching for a 4.7K resistor (didn't find it) and came across remnants of my first LED grow light. 3W of brutal powerWe were noobs ourselves ,once upon a time ,brother ..
But I've the feelin' ,that we used to do more extensive research ,than the today's noobs ...
Or maybe we had better "gurus" (see @guod ,for example) ,than we 're ourselves ,today ...
Anyway ...
I might start writin' a book about "Solid State Lighting & Cannabis Horticulture " ....
Who knows ?
I might get awarded with the next Pulitzer prize !
And then this 'beauty'
alesh
Well-Known Member
So I bought the drivers from KB. Turns out that with a small tax fraud they were cheaper than TME (including shipping and DHL fee).
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
I'm gettin' my drivers at Kutop ..Hong-Kong ...
(Original MWs , no receipt inside the package ,no taxes ,no customs ,20€ shipping fees )
But not the best prices ever I guess ...
https://kutop.com/led-driver/hlg-c-series.html
Still ,I'm unable to trace my favourite HLP drivers anywhere else ...
https://kutop.com/led-driver/hlp-series.html
alesh
Well-Known Member
There's basically no chance to avoid customs/VAT with such a large package. They require you to send documents about payment in order to calculate customs+VAT. And DHL charges about $25 fee for dealing with them. So I shifted decimal points on the invoice one place left and didn't pay that much after allI'm gettin' my drivers at Kutop ..Hong-Kong ...
(Original MWs , no receipt inside the package ,no taxes ,no customs ,20€ shipping fees )
But not the best prices ever I guess ...
https://kutop.com/led-driver/hlg-c-series.html
Still ,I'm unable to trace my favourite HLP drivers anywhere else ...
https://kutop.com/led-driver/hlp-series.html
$69 a piece.
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