Got my 3590's. Look different....

[grouch]

What's the difference between my 2- 4000k 's then? Why's one say 3590N in black and the other B3590N in silver?

There have been many iterations of lettering on Cree COBs over time. I think the newest is the gold and grey lettering but no worries if you got black. You can see that they are CXB by the arrangement of the traces, they match exactly in the pics you posted.

 

[Airwalker16]

Yes, but as Mark said, ALL CXA's have no prefix. There's only one cob of all 8 that DOESN'T say "B"3590N. The one in question is the black Cree logo, that says only 3590N. The second pic that I originally posted .

 

[Airwalker16]

Looks like a messed up "BD" on the packaging to me. That would make sense.

It definitely reads CD very clearly. There's no stray lines, (besides his little top he apparently puts on his uppercase "C"s), scribbling, or erasing attempts I can see at least. It's only mentioning the 4000k''s because he sent them in the original CD bin packaging with the sticker you can see at the top.

 

[grouch]

Yes, but as Mark said, ALL CXA's have no prefix. There's only one cob of all 8 that DOESN'T say "B"3590N. The one in question is the black Cree logo, that says only 3590N. The second pic that I originally posted .View attachment 3599727

Supra said cxb were printed multiple ways and to match it by the tracing. Or you could check the voltage.

 

[Airwalker16]

Tracing of the wire strips?

 

[Maine_Coast]

It definitely reads CD very clearly. There's no stray lines, (besides his little top he apparently puts on his uppercase "C"s), scribbling, or erasing attempts I can see at least. It's only mentioning the 4000k''s because he sent them in the original CD bin packaging with the sticker you can see at the top. View attachment 3599728

I was talking about the hand printed label over the 4000K Cobs. It still looks like a bD to me. I seriously doubt Jerry sent you a wrong part on purpose. If he made a mistake, he will correct it quickly. Try contacting the vendor first instead of posting the details in public. I have ordered from both Cutter and Jerry. Always excellent service and the product was exactly as described. Why not test the device yourself and stop causing hate and discontent. You post every question that comes to mind, instead of taking the time to read what people already posted. Have a little initiative and stop asking for people to hold your hand. Guess it's time to ignore my first user, just as others have done for you.

 

[Airwalker16]

I was talking about the hand printed label over the 4000K Cobs. It still looks like a bD to me. I seriously doubt Jerry sent you a wrong part on purpose. If he made a mistake, he will correct it quickly. Try contacting the vendor first instead of posting the details in public. I have ordered from both Cutter and Jerry. Always excellent service and the product was exactly as described. Why not test the device yourself and stop causing hate and discontent. You post every question that comes to mind, instead of taking the time to read what people already posted. Have a little initiative and stop asking for people to hold your hand. Guess it's time to ignore my first user, just as others have done for you.

Because once again, I have NOTHING to test it with. Man...
And also, that's exactly what my post talked about. Can you read? I say very clearly that I'm talking about the HAND WRITTEN LABEL at the bottom of the package

 

[grouch]

Buy a volt meter

 

[Maine_Coast]

Because once again, I have NOTHING to test it with. Man...
And also, that's exactly what my post talked about. Can you read? I say very clearly that I'm talking about the HAND WRITTEN LABEL at the bottom of the package

"Can you read".... Yes, in fact, I have successfully built multiple lights without asking a single question. I spent hours reading on this forum. All the answers you need are there.

For example here is your latest asinine question:

"Question, my ideal chip loks for 3590''s have 2 identical holes on the white wire connection push in slots. Which one do I even use?"

The answer would be: Both of Them. Just take the time and read. And get a voltmeter. I test as I go and every light powered up the first time.

 

[Airwalker16]

I'm just wondering what the second adjacent wire hole would be for. People I've seen videos of using these holders, and on ideals video, he Inserts ONE wire into the left side hole. He used a tiny pin ABOVE the pushed in wire to release it. It never explains what the other one is for.

 

[Maine_Coast]

I'm just wondering what the second adjacent wire hole would be for. People I've seen videos of using these holders, and on ideals video, he Inserts ONE wire into the left side hole. He used a tiny pin ABOVE the pushed in wire to release it. It never explains what the other one is for.

If you had a voltmeter, you could check continuity and see they are connected. You can use either of them. In a series application, just one is used - use either. In parallel, you could use both. Just make sure you get the polarity correct. Good luck, I am out.

 

[Airwalker16]

If you had a voltmeter, you could check continuity and see they are connected. You can use either of them. In a series application, just one is used - use either. In parallel, you could use both. Just make sure you get the polarity correct. Good luck, I am out.

Only ones needed for parralel though I thought?

 

[WeeblesWobbles]

AW16...You start threads about screws, COBs, heatsinks, sandpaper, mounting, connecting, etc., etc. etc. when every one of your questions was answered in Growmau5's six seminal Youtubes and again in multiple existing threads in this forum.

You seem like a good kid. I'm not trying to slam you. But dear lord you have to learn to conduct some research on your own and develop the initiative to make a move without seeking prior approval. This is a life skill that will serve you well. Master it.

Get a volt-ohm meter. You've spent hundreds on COBs--spend $20 on a VOM. You need one, if only to ensure you don't kill yourself with a short. Research a good, inexpensive one on the 'net. Check Amazon reviews. I know for a fact that folks have recommended good ones here on RIU. Either learn how to use it from the many excellent YouTubes out there or go to the library and pick up a book.

You need to know the difference between serial and parallel connections. Again, there are many fine tutorials on the 'net. You're a smart guy, you can master this stuff.

Watch all of the Growmau5 videos. Now watch them again. He explains serial connections. That's what you want.

Good luck.

 

[Airwalker16]

AW16...You start threads about screws, COBs, heatsinks, sandpaper, mounting, connecting, etc., etc. etc. when every one of your questions was answered in Growmau5's six seminal Youtubes and again in multiple existing threads in this forum.

You seem like a good kid. I'm not trying to slam you. But dear lord you have to learn to conduct some research on your own and develop the initiative to make a move without seeking prior approval. This is a life skill that will serve you well. Master it.

Get a volt-ohm meter. You've spent hundreds on COBs--spend $20 on a VOM. You need one, if only to ensure you don't kill yourself with a short. Research a good, inexpensive one on the 'net. Check Amazon reviews. I know for a fact that folks have recommended good ones here on RIU. Either learn how to use it from the many excellent YouTubes out there or go to the library and pick up a book.

You need to know the difference between serial and parallel connections. Again, there are many fine tutorials on the 'net. You're a smart guy, you can master this stuff.

Watch all of the Growmau5 videos. Now watch them again. He explains serial connections. That's what you want.

Good luck.

Thanks, I've watched them mutiple times. I know the differences. Just was unsure how to parallel wire using both holes rather than

Only ones needed for parralel though I thought? View attachment 3599774

This style.

 

[Airwalker16]

AW16...You start threads about screws, COBs, heatsinks, sandpaper, mounting, connecting, etc., etc. etc. when every one of your questions was answered in Growmau5's six seminal Youtubes and again in multiple existing threads in this forum.

You seem like a good kid. I'm not trying to slam you. But dear lord you have to learn to conduct some research on your own and develop the initiative to make a move without seeking prior approval. This is a life skill that will serve you well. Master it.

Get a volt-ohm meter. You've spent hundreds on COBs--spend $20 on a VOM. You need one, if only to ensure you don't kill yourself with a short. Research a good, inexpensive one on the 'net. Check Amazon reviews. I know for a fact that folks have recommended good ones here on RIU. Either learn how to use it from the many excellent YouTubes out there or go to the library and pick up a book.

You need to know the difference between serial and parallel connections. Again, there are many fine tutorials on the 'net. You're a smart guy, you can master this stuff.

Watch all of the Growmau5 videos. Now watch them again. He explains serial connections. That's what you want.

Good luck.

I know I ask a lot of questions, but I also get tired of the criticism. People don't have to respond or read anything I post even. It's easier to learn for me hands on, real time rather than studying pages and pages of threads.

 

[grouch]

I know I ask a lot of questions, but I also get tired of the criticism. People don't have to respond or read anything I post even. It's easier to learn for me hands on, real time rather than studying pages and pages of threads.

These threads you dont have time to read were written with the intention of making it easier for the teachers. Why should they have to reteach the lesson because you skipped the assignment.

 

[PicklesRus]

Yes, but as Mark said, ALL CXA's have no prefix. There's only one cob of all 8 that DOESN'T say "B"3590N. The one in question is the black Cree logo, that says only 3590N. The second pic that I originally posted .View attachment 3599727

Sounds like you need to figure out how to test that cob and do it. I don't see any other option. It can't be that hard... He just gets a cheap multimeter off eBay and hooks it up with a couple other cobs on a driver right?

You might want to post your exact plan so someone here can help you make sure you won't mess up your gear. It really should be about as easy as building a light.

Digital multimeter is like 15$ free shipping - longer you wait the long you'll have to wait

 

[PicklesRus]

I was talking about the hand printed label over the 4000K Cobs. It still looks like a bD to me. I seriously doubt Jerry sent you a wrong part on purpose. If he made a mistake, he will correct it quickly. Try contacting the vendor first instead of posting the details in public. I have ordered from both Cutter and Jerry. Always excellent service and the product was exactly as described. Why not test the device yourself and stop causing hate and discontent. You post every question that comes to mind, instead of taking the time to read what people already posted. Have a little initiative and stop asking for people to hold your hand. Guess it's time to ignore my first user, just as others have done for you.

This thread is actually helpful to me, although it seems to be somewhat annoying.

 

[PicklesRus]

Because once again, I have NOTHING to test it with. Man...
And also, that's exactly what my post talked about. Can you read? I say very clearly that I'm talking about the HAND WRITTEN LABEL at the bottom of the package

Dude chill and buy a multimeter for the price of a pizza.

 

[Airwalker16]

These threads you dont have time to read were written with the intention of making it easier for the teachers. Why should they have to reteach the lesson because you skipped the assignment.

Again,
They dont.