question about H&G top booster application

Bud XL
Top Booster
Top Shooter
Shooting powder

Just looked at the H&G web page. First time in a cpl of years.
SHADY comes directly to mind as NO NPK values are given and no separate or advanced information on any product!
No label or ingr. are listed for anything!
No links to that information.

Looked at the schedule and I'll bet if you follow that with the P&K piling on that way.....You'll get yellowing quick!
You don't NEED boosters to reach a plants potential......for the most strains I do nothing but water my soil (water only soil)

I do "tickle" the P&K a little.....I use single organic nutrients and do a specific P&K value once a week at 6 & 7 and stop...Sometimes 7 & 8 strain dependent for average finish times.
H&G is the good stuff my friend. All of their NPK info is listed on the bottles. Maybe the website isn't up to date? I've done many pulls with and without top booster. The proof is in the final weight. Top booster works and works well.
 
House & Garden was one of the most reputable plant nutrients in NL. The lack of info is surprising though, I expected that would improve now they moved to the US...

Bud xl is 4-0-1 (note the N)
Top booster is Pk13/14 + Fe but with npk of roughly 0-10-11.
Top shooter (liquid) and shooting powder is 0-39-25 roughly.

I have used the entire line including shooting powder without premature yellowing. AB is complete though and I don't use anything but that and some sillica nowadays.
Please post the correct NPK value.

Bud XL is 0.4 - 0 - 0.2
Top booster is 0 - 0.7 - 0.6

4 and .4 is a huge difference. I don't have the NPK for shooting powder but I would double check your #s.
 
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a mongo frog

Well-Known Member
Please post the correct NPK value.

Bud XL is 0.4 - 0 - 0.2
Too booster is 0 - 0.7 - 0.6

4 and .4 is a huge difference. I don't have the NPK for shooting powder but I would double check your #s.
Come on dude..... The bottles tricked you again. Tell us their base npk as you read it please. Like tell us the npk of aqua flakes A&B
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
Yeah we went through that before. Sometimes they list a ratio, some the wv ratio and some the ww ratio.

The dude is right to correct me nonetheless though, I'm looking at years old bottles and labels of the dutch line. Just recently they decided to finally play along here and list the actually percentages, which are sometimes very different.

My bud xl bottle says 4-0-1, not 0.4-0-0.2.

My Top Booster contains 13% P and 14% K according to ingredients on the bottle. I looked up a guaranteed analysis years ago and it turned out to be something like 10/11 instead. Apparantly they lowered the ratio in US version of their pk13/14 aka top booster even further.

That goes for most if not all that target cannabis growers, if you really want to know the contents the manufacturers just aren't the most reliable and one should look for a guaranteed analysis. For example http://www.agr.wa.gov/PestFert/Fertilizers/FertDB/prodinfo.aspx?pname=6229

Shooting powder is 0-0.9-0.2

Similar site from the state of California.
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
NPK of Aquaflakes is

0.3 - 0 - 0.3

NPK of coco is

0.3 - 0 - 0.3

Where is the confusion?
"Please post the correct NPK value"

For someone who dared to correct the great Sativied after 12 posts you don't seem very bright.... You forgot the P. Or more specifically, you forgot the B part.
 

cap master

Well-Known Member
I agree they are a wste of cash might as well give them additional non burning nutes like fish during there cycles
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
So AB is 0.4 - 0.3 - 0.9.

Which makes Bud XL with its 0.4 N a pretty strong N boost. Basically if you fuck up the ratio with the high pk top booster and shooter it is somewhat unfucked if you use Bud XL too. Like the manufacturers say, you got to use the entire line... Might as well stick to the AB ratio which works fine, actually, ime it works better without the additives.
 
So AB is 0.4 - 0.3 - 0.9.

Which makes Bud XL with its 0.4 N a pretty strong N boost. Basically if you fuck up the ratio with the high pk top booster and shooter it is somewhat unfucked if you use Bud XL too. Like the manufacturers say, you got to use the entire line... Might as well stick to the AB ratio which works fine, actually, ime it works better without the additives.
Different strokes for different folks I guess.
In my experience top booster is a must when using the House and Garden nutrient line. The difference with and without is dramatic. The proof is in the weight. This not my opinion. Occasionally one must dose less top boost than the directions state. You must also factor in light intensity or risk funky tops. Burning, no bud mass and fox tailing can occur. But if you get it right magical things will happen.
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
magical things will happen.
And that is exactly what you pay for, a fairytale you can belief in, the idea that you can increase weight magically, even though botanically and scientifically it's just bullshit. There is plenty of P and K in the AB already. They use the oldest trick in the book, made up by Canna. Add pk13/14 and your buds will explode... at a time in the cycle where it genetically does so already.

The difference with and without is dramatic. The proof is in the weight. This not my opinion.
Yes, that is your opinion. I've done many runs with pk 13/14 products, and without, several with top booster, and without, and given a moderate amount of AB 0.8-1.3ec, is all it needs to achieve its genetic max potential.There is no dramatic difference at all, not a positive one anyway...

I think it's time for the question... How much do you yield per space and watt? Show me some healthy top boosted plants at the end of a cycle please.
 
And that is exactly what you pay for, a fairytale you can belief in, the idea that you can increase weight magically, even though botanically and scientifically it's just bullshit. There is plenty of P and K in the AB already. They use the oldest trick in the book, made up by Canna. Add pk13/14 and your buds will explode... at a time in the cycle where it genetically does so already.

Yes, that is your opinion. I've done many runs with pk 13/14 products, and without, several with top booster, and without, and given a moderate amount of AB 0.8-1.3ec, is all it needs to achieve its genetic max potential.There is no dramatic difference at all, not a positive one anyway...

I think it's time for the question... How much do you yield per space and watt? Show me some healthy top boosted plants at the end of a cycle please.
I'm not spouting opinion on Top Boost. Top boost consistently adds more weight than not using it. Every run is weighed out obviously. Yes I have stopped using it in the past and yields started to suffer even when not using it and also supplementing different boosters. If you don't see a difference you are not doing it correctly. I average 2.5lb-3lb per light. Anything less than 2lb a light is not acceptable to me. Your results may vary but I suggest giving boosters a 2nd look. Far as pics go I will have to sit on that. For obvious reasons.
 

Grandpapy

Well-Known Member
The first time I used it was on Durban Cookies (a high yielder to begin with) the next day, I open the tent to see half of the Tops laying over, I thought WTF! Close inspection revealed they needed added support for the additional uptake.

Other strains not so much.

I would like to try it one day when I have a room large enough with extra head room, but in my tent it might be worth a try at 50%.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
So AB is 0.4 - 0.3 - 0.9.

Which makes Bud XL with its 0.4 N a pretty strong N boost. Basically if you fuck up the ratio with the high pk top booster and shooter it is somewhat unfucked if you use Bud XL too. Like the manufacturers say, you got to use the entire line... Might as well stick to the AB ratio which works fine, actually, ime it works better without the additives.
Ah my Dutch friend,,,,,I SEE the WHOLE picture now!
They are still a "push" happy line, if you get my drift.....

I too have gotten "better" results as you say without the additives. When I ran it. Must say that when the company decided to send me the products to test. They were one of the very FEW companies that send me everything! I would imagine in the 9 years since, they have done some reformulating (the reason I went to the web for the #'s).

Maybe some of the new formulations better cover the high (but not extreme) P&K building.....The only thing I didn't like at all, was how (at the time) the formula slowly turned my soil into a "brick".....Not being a guy big on "flushing" it gave me fits.....Quit the "drip clean" and for some reason it seemed better the next run but, I also cut the supplements way back on that run too.

The thing with "Bloom Boosters" is moderation....Shooting Powder seems over the top but used little and late. M.O.A.B., FF Cha Ching, Beastie Blooms and or anything in the 0-50-50 area is in my book,,,,too strong. Then you have some early use and it builds to yellow out the plant kinda fast!

I guess I've always had a problem with how many nutrient makers push so hard (for the most part) right from the flip.....The overly high jump in P&K so early sports a vast sea of problems seen here.....Early use of "boosters" will magnify the problem in pushed plants......Bumping the N to "cheat" them through is doing the novice grower nothing in actual "learning" about what he's doing.

Then again most just walk into the site and say basically, "How do I grow weed?" with 0 growing skills and no idea how to even grow a house plant......(Buy some books and read! Get an African Violet. If you can get an Af. violet to bloom,,,,your ready to grow "weed".)

Anyway - Nice posting Sativied and thanks for the ratio's.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
H&G is the good stuff my friend. All of their NPK info is listed on the bottles. Maybe the website isn't up to date? I've done many pulls with and without top booster. The proof is in the final weight. Top booster works and works well.
I find that while there maybe some effect of bud size increase.
The main reason for yield increase's with late bloom "booster" use, like "shooting Powder".....is mainly the density is increased.....even with more "airy" leaning strains....I have seen some strains blow up pretty good - But again, these were getting more "normal" NPK ratio's and the end "boosting" was closely managed.... From what I see of the new ratio's and feed charts. H&G is still packing it on fast but, doing it in "layers" and covering yellowing as best they can with increased N ratio's too......Buy understanding what their doing and how their doing it - You may be able to "manipulate" the products to your own schedule's and do a better job without so much!

I don't "need" a nutrient line to do that for me....I formulate my soils to do that. I change to a "bloom" formula soil at the up pot to the finishing pot - 10 days and they move to the bloom room. Heavy feeders get a weekly boost after 2-3 weeks. Some strains get a neat little P&K tickle (organic and I ratio it) at the last 3 weeks and only once a week, twice, leaving the last week for the plant to actually use it. I like to manipulate "coloring" by K and by temps.

I did the synthetic thing for some years. Tried many and found only 3 brands to preform as cost effective and result effective at the same time....I'm not saying that the others didn't work. I found the 3 I liked as working better.......I no longer use any synthetics......several reasons.
 
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I find that while there maybe some effect of bud size increase.
The main reason for yield increase's with late bloom "booster" use, like "shooting Powder".....is mainly the density is increased.....even with more "airy" leaning strains....I have seen some strains blow up pretty good - But again, these were getting more "normal" NPK ratio's and the end "boosting" was closely managed.... From what I see of the new ratio's and feed charts. H&G is still packing it on fast but, doing it in "layers" and covering yellowing as best they can with increased N ratio's too......Buy understanding what their doing and how their doing it - You may be able to "manipulate" the products to your own schedule's and do a better job without so much!

I don't "need" a nutrient line to do that for me....I formulate my soils to do that. I change to a "bloom" formula soil at the up pot to the finishing pot - 10 days and they move to the bloom room. Heavy feeders get a weekly boost after 2-3 weeks. Some strains get a neat little P&K tickle (organic and I ratio it) at the last 3 weeks and only once a week, twice, leaving the last week for the plant to actually use it. I like to manipulate "coloring" by K and by temps.

I did the synthetic thing for some years. Tried many and found only 3 brands to preform as cost effective and result effective at the same time....I'm not saying that the others didn't work. I found the 3 I liked as working better.......I no longer use any synthetics......several reasons.
Great take on nutrients Doc. Btw my system is using coco drain to waste and the HG nutrient line works great for me. Also, you mentioned MOAB. This is another favorite product of mine. Dare I throw a shout out to Mendecino Avalanche to?Plz don't come back with the pitch fork :) . I have had great success in my days using these products.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Great take on nutrients Doc. Btw my systems is using coco drain to waste so this and the HG nutrient line works great for me. Also, you mentioned MOAB. This is another favorite product of mine. Dare I throw a shout out to Mendecino Avalanche to?Plz don't come back with the pitch fork :) . I have had great success in my days using these products.
Pitch forks coming? Actually I won't!!

I've used it. It works but again it's one of those "you better know what your doing first" kinda things! (Bet you know what I mean, eh?)

Drain to waste and H&G are made for each other with Coco!
 
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