Alienwidow
Well-Known Member
Nice. I make X's from duct tape, and then staple those to the wall.
How to push out sucked in mylar tent walls?
- Thread starter GreenLogician
- Start date
JSB99
Well-Known Member
Problem is that you're system still isn't balanced so no matter how high you turn your fan up, the amount of air is still restricted.
In the Winter, when it's cool, a lot of times you can turn your fan down low and achieve proper cooling. But when you need to turn the fan up to account for heat, it'll still be like running your fan at low speed. All you'll do is put stress on your fan, your tent, your plants (from inadequate flow of air), and cause your fan to run hot because of the massive load it's pulling.
Those flaps are useless and you'll probably see a lot of tent owners using the duct ports on the bottom of the tent as either passive or active air intake.
You do not need an intake fan. If you added one it would probably spin just as fast unplugged from the massive amount of negative pressure.
Simple test...close your flaps and use something to hold your bottom intakes open and see how your tent does.
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
Yep using a foot of duct to prop open the bottom intakes seems to do better than the flaps in some places, lower temps and more airflow near the front. Some warmer areas in the back.
They are at the corners adjacent the door, so that's expected.
Good test, I think flaps + bottom intakes open is the way to go.
They are at the corners adjacent the door, so that's expected.
Good test, I think flaps + bottom intakes open is the way to go.
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
The problem of restricted air is still one I face though, since I put my hps back in alongside my led, the exhaust is being dragged over my bulb in the cool tube on its way out. That bulb takes up a reasonable portion of the 6 inches 
JSB99
Well-Known Member
If you're using a cool tube, it's kind of the point to make it as compact as possible.The problem of restricted air is still one I face though, since I put my hps back in alongside my led, the exhaust is being dragged over my bulb in the cool tube on its way out. That bulb takes up a reasonable portion of the 6 inches
Try using a small 6" fan pointed right under the cool tube. This will disapate any standing heat directly under the light.
JSB99
Well-Known Member
One last thing, if you're getting cooler temps in the front of your tent you can put a small fan on the floor to push some cool air back, or run a length of duct from one port to the back of the inside of the tent. A booster fan might help balance this out.
If you still have negative pressure and you've used all available bottom ports, you can also run a length of duct from one of the open ports on top to the floor. It's not ideal, but it is a solution. And when you're fighting heat, max airflow will definitely help.
Good luck, my friend
sixspeedv
Well-Known Member
I have a small tent with 460cfm exhaust and was having pretty bad neg pressure with fan dialed down a lot. My passive intake was only 4 inches. I recently added a 100cfm inline fan into the intake hole and with exhaust at about half speed I not longer have neg pressure. The air exchange is great and temps are holding.
I just need to cover the intake fan as light is blasting through it and get a filter over it. Stealth is key.
I just need to cover the intake fan as light is blasting through it and get a filter over it. Stealth is key.
kmog33
Well-Known Member
Propping the tent open is not a good solution for negative air pressure. You either need to add a fan to balance out pressure. Or to do passive you need to open more surface area of the tent for the fan to pull into the tent passively and it will fix you sucked in issue without hurting your fan.
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JSB99
Well-Known Member
Get a length of black, white, or insulated flexible duct. Coil it up from the intake of the fan. Then get some black nylon panty hose and stretch it over the end up the duct. This will all help prevent light leaks as well as keeping bugs and dust out.
blackforest
Well-Known Member
Use some bamboo poles, the kind you use to stake up plants. Just make a makeshift cage with the existing support poles. Just a few bucks and some duct tape.
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
Ya that's good, but I did better using coat hangers - my makeshift cage can bend outwards giving me extra room, not just restored to rectangular - but beyond
justugh
Well-Known Member
https://www.rollitup.org/Journal/Entry/filter-box-for-intake-to-tent.25313/#comment-27754Ya that's good, but I did better using coat hangers - my makeshift cage can bend outwards giving me extra room, not just restored to rectangular - but beyond
the answers are simple
1 u need to brace the walls (u can do it with string go around the poles and make a taught line of string when it sucks in it hits the string and stops)
2 a powered intake rated lower then your exhaust so maintain negative pressure for smell control but lighten the suck force on the walls/passive intake
highdave
Well-Known Member
Ran into this problem when I bought my set up. Was losing about 8 to 10 inches of space. In a 3x3 it was killin me.
But instead of taking my own advice and getting an intake I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone and make a pvc boarder around my tent. ( complete With a little section for my tower fan) it holds my walls at 32" and holds my screen
But instead of taking my own advice and getting an intake I decided to kill 2 birds with one stone and make a pvc boarder around my tent. ( complete With a little section for my tower fan) it holds my walls at 32" and holds my screen
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WeedFreak78
Well-Known Member
What's the frame on these tents made from? Seems like some electric emt conduit or pvc could easily be added as cross braces, the emt stuff has connectors/couplings that could be adapted easily. Slide some 1"foam insulation between the frame and fabric. It's solid enough to not suck in. Wrapping the frame in tight string or wire seems simple to me.
antonios88
New Member
hi
i am still having this problem with the walls caving in, iv added intake (not too much) i tried the bamboos from pole to pole with duct tape but still having problems not very secure.. any more ideas?
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
Yes Antonios88! If your tent is about the same size as mine, coat hangers. Coat hangers coat hangers coat hangers.
Bamboo, pvc, string and all that have been suggested as bracing, but that will only go straight from pole to pole.
It will only restore sucked in walls to flat walls, although you could do it on a tent any size.
Mine is 80cm x 80cm, which is perfect for coat hangers.
With coat hangers, They can actually bend out, pushing the walls out and giving EXTRA room, as if you had a positive pressure system in there blowing the walls out.
Bamboo, pvc, string and all that have been suggested as bracing, but that will only go straight from pole to pole.
It will only restore sucked in walls to flat walls, although you could do it on a tent any size.
Mine is 80cm x 80cm, which is perfect for coat hangers.
With coat hangers, They can actually bend out, pushing the walls out and giving EXTRA room, as if you had a positive pressure system in there blowing the walls out.
GreenLogician
Well-Known Member
If duct tape isn't stable enough for you, try zip ties
rob333
Well-Known Member
get a stonger intake if your walls are sucking in it ,means u dont have a strong intake there for your intake will be sucked up by the outake and you will get zero to 13% air intake in the grow room wood rails to push the tent apart will not work
Candybeast
Active Member
How did this help?