the HLG-600H thread
- Thread starter BOBBY_G
- Start date
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
depends where you grab it. on a lower current model (500 or 700 mA) close to the higher voltage side of the driver can see upwards of 400 volts
this is why you ground your heatsink. if 400V shorts to this and its ungrounded, it is a hazard. if you are grounded and you touch it YOU become the ground and take all that current
if the heatsink is properly grounded as soon as it shorts it faults the driver and shuts it down
Last edited:
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
pretty dangerous. my friend went to the ER because he tried to insert one and was in surgery for hours
but seriously anything is dangerous, esp electricity when a few basic rules arent followed
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Ummm..... BUUUUUZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!
Future Skills
Member
Ok now I get the picture. I'm going to split the ground leaving the driver and wrap one end onto the heatsink and the other goes to the wallplug. Any short on the heatsink will go into the wall ground.
Sound safer? Sorry for the questions but hopefully this will save somebody one day.
Sound safer? Sorry for the questions but hopefully this will save somebody one day.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Absolutely safer. Good job man. It's a great question to ask.
the dopest
Well-Known Member
I'm not certified to say, I was just stating what I know about lowrider cars and golf carts from my experience.
Please do not take my post as advocating the use of a high amp power supply, I have zero experience with them, I just noted personal experience with high amp battery situations. They(multiple car batteries) will absolutely burn your place to the ground if you have an accidental short. I've witnessed it multiple times. I have also been hit with 48, 72 & 96v DC at high amperage in those situations and it will rock your world. It shocked and burned me but I'm still alive and continue to work with both but cautiously. Personally I would not hesitate to use a high amp power supply but you need knowledge and common sense and most of all safety.
You cant learn common sense and you cant fix stupid and there are people that think that if they see it done on a website that they can do it themselves without knowing everything the person posting knows. I do not recommend using a high amp power supply without lots of research and the understanding that lives can be lost from simple mistakes and/or accidental issues.
Please do not take my post as advocating the use of a high amp power supply, I have zero experience with them, I just noted personal experience with high amp battery situations. They(multiple car batteries) will absolutely burn your place to the ground if you have an accidental short. I've witnessed it multiple times. I have also been hit with 48, 72 & 96v DC at high amperage in those situations and it will rock your world. It shocked and burned me but I'm still alive and continue to work with both but cautiously. Personally I would not hesitate to use a high amp power supply but you need knowledge and common sense and most of all safety.
You cant learn common sense and you cant fix stupid and there are people that think that if they see it done on a website that they can do it themselves without knowing everything the person posting knows. I do not recommend using a high amp power supply without lots of research and the understanding that lives can be lost from simple mistakes and/or accidental issues.
EfficientWatt
Well-Known Member
As the URL of next link says, this is GCSE education guys (15 year old in the UK ?)
http://www.gcsescience.com/pe39.htm
I also modified with my *highly* advanced paint skillz the following diagram :
An alternative if you have a shitty electric setup / plugs, is to ground to a copper pipe (instead of at the plug) which happens to go all the way into the ground.
Please note and be aware : If you don't understand those basic concepts to begin with, you really shouldn't even be thinking of 'playing' with electricity ...
http://www.gcsescience.com/pe39.htm
I also modified with my *highly* advanced paint skillz the following diagram :
An alternative if you have a shitty electric setup / plugs, is to ground to a copper pipe (instead of at the plug) which happens to go all the way into the ground.
Please note and be aware : If you don't understand those basic concepts to begin with, you really shouldn't even be thinking of 'playing' with electricity ...
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
alesh
Well-Known Member
Depending on the situation (actual voltage, what you touch it with, insulation between you and ground, ...), something between nothing and heart failure is likely to happen. Generally, if you're not standing outside, barefoot on the wet ground, touching your driver with your left hand, I wouldn't expect more than a numb finger for a few minutes.
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
trying to make sure i understand the voltage/current curve
i want to run (at first) 8 3590s per driver in parallel which comes out to 16.7A/8=2.0875A ea. (~75W ea)
here's output from cree's design tool for CD bin
you can see at that current the forward voltage is just a hair over 36V (~36.09V) so i guess my question is how is that driver going to behave, im trying to figure out which region of the CV/CC curve im operating in (from driver datasheet pg 4 - http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/HLG-600H-SPEC.pdf )
. seems like the maximum driver voltage in the B model is limited to 36V, which i take to mean i cant run any of the cobs over ~2.04A. The 'A' model can do it but i kind of wanted the external pot/pwm dimming
lets say at an extreme i tried to run 6 instead of 8: 16.7A/6= 2.78 A = 37.2 Vf. would it provide the COB only 36V? and the COB would only pull 2.04A at that voltage?
the opposite example (10 COBs at 1.67A each) is 35.3V and would be more clearly in the vertical constant current portion of the curve since Vf < Vo.
i guess in summary i cant wrap my head around how you would ever be in the constant current portion of the curve. say you hooked up one or two COBs to it, would it behave as above (feed it 36V and the cob would only draw 2.04A) - or would you risk runaway current draw and burn out the cob?
ultimately in the future i want to do 12-20 COBs per driver at lower voltage/current for better efficiency (playing the waiting game on COB prices falling)
would i be better off using the 42V version? i really dont have much of a desire to run much over 2.1A (eff. goes way down and i become heatsink limited). also would limit me to 14.3 vs 16.7A since im 'wasting' that voltage headroom. Also seems like an opportunity to blow up some cobs if a parallel string falls out.... where the 36V model would appear to hard limit within the acceptable voltage range of the COB.
i want to run (at first) 8 3590s per driver in parallel which comes out to 16.7A/8=2.0875A ea. (~75W ea)
here's output from cree's design tool for CD bin
you can see at that current the forward voltage is just a hair over 36V (~36.09V) so i guess my question is how is that driver going to behave, im trying to figure out which region of the CV/CC curve im operating in (from driver datasheet pg 4 - http://www.cdiweb.com/datasheets/meanwell/HLG-600H-SPEC.pdf )
. seems like the maximum driver voltage in the B model is limited to 36V, which i take to mean i cant run any of the cobs over ~2.04A. The 'A' model can do it but i kind of wanted the external pot/pwm dimming
lets say at an extreme i tried to run 6 instead of 8: 16.7A/6= 2.78 A = 37.2 Vf. would it provide the COB only 36V? and the COB would only pull 2.04A at that voltage?
the opposite example (10 COBs at 1.67A each) is 35.3V and would be more clearly in the vertical constant current portion of the curve since Vf < Vo.
i guess in summary i cant wrap my head around how you would ever be in the constant current portion of the curve. say you hooked up one or two COBs to it, would it behave as above (feed it 36V and the cob would only draw 2.04A) - or would you risk runaway current draw and burn out the cob?
ultimately in the future i want to do 12-20 COBs per driver at lower voltage/current for better efficiency (playing the waiting game on COB prices falling)
would i be better off using the 42V version? i really dont have much of a desire to run much over 2.1A (eff. goes way down and i become heatsink limited). also would limit me to 14.3 vs 16.7A since im 'wasting' that voltage headroom. Also seems like an opportunity to blow up some cobs if a parallel string falls out.... where the 36V model would appear to hard limit within the acceptable voltage range of the COB.
the dopest
Well-Known Member
What would be the wattage and efficiency of 12 cxb3590's on that driver?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Ugh. Impossible to do. 4 5 or 6 that's all
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
they would each run at 50W, 1.43A, 56% efficient
With all due respect airwalker, i dont think you understand the nature of that driver
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Whoa... I don't know how this happened. I got this mixed up totally with the other thread about an hlg 240-c1050.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I'm too tired...
Though I was respondin to this ^^
the dopest
Well-Known Member
Thanks, just what I was looking for! I have a 12 sqft space I would like to light at 50w per sq ft, I'm still looking at options.
marosa
Active Member
Hi 
i have 3 questions..
so i can use this driver & 12 x cxb 3590 ?
from where i should buy the 3590 3500 k or should i stick with the 3000k models? ( since they are a bit more efficient )
the driver mentioned here is really expensive in europe as far as i could google it 230 € wouldnt it be better to buy some of the other ones like 3 hlg 185 1400 or hlg 240 ?
i have 3 questions..
so i can use this driver & 12 x cxb 3590 ?
from where i should buy the 3590 3500 k or should i stick with the 3000k models? ( since they are a bit more efficient )
the driver mentioned here is really expensive in europe as far as i could google it 230 € wouldnt it be better to buy some of the other ones like 3 hlg 185 1400 or hlg 240 ?
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
I'd go with the 240's. Just my opinion.Hi
i have 3 questions..
so i can use this driver & 12 x cxb 3590 ?
from where i should buy the 3590 3500 k or should i stick with the 3000k models? ( since they are a bit more efficient )
the driver mentioned here is really expensive in europe as far as i could google it 230 € wouldnt it be better to buy some of the other ones like 3 hlg 185 1400 or hlg 240 ?
BOBBY_G
Well-Known Member
50W/sqft is way too much with 56% efficient cobs. you want like 30-35w