Shriveled curling leaves, yellow/brown spots - Pics inside

Medicanman

Active Member
My babies are sick. They were transplanted from solo cups 14 days ago. They were fine until then.

After I transplant I watered with PH 6.5 water for two waterings then add nutes at 1/3 strength. My nute PPM value is 500. My water is 120 with no nutes. I use Jungle Juice.

I measured my runoff and the PH is 6.5. My PPM is between 5-600 depending on the pot.

I think its my soil. I had been using Sunshine mix 4 and my shop switched brands so I had to use Nutri Mix HP.
This grow is split between the two soils. There are a few with the Sunshine Mix I had left and they look far better than the NutriMix pots.

I don't have a soil tester but I just ordered one that will test soil PH and NPK values.

I've attached pictures of the worst of them.

What can I do to get my babies back on track?
 

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Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
Sunshine mix 4 has no nutritional value and from the very limited info that I could find neither does Nutri mix. So you grew some plants in a substrate that has no nutritional value and now you're feeding them. They look over fertilized. Plants that grow in medium that is void or nearly void of nutrients for a while tend to burn like this when newly transplanted and fed. This condition may worsen before it gets better. Also growing in a smaller container limits root mass development wich may also be unable to handle the sudden influx of nutrients that were absent before.
 

Medicanman

Active Member
Thanks Jimmy.

What should I do at this point? Should I flush them or keep them on a light nutrient diet for the next few waterings? Or should I just water with PH water this next time and then light nutes after that?

If my water is has a 120 ppm how much should my total ppm be with nutes at this early stage?
 

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
No. Don't flush that will throw the balance off even more. I would keep them on a water,feed,water,feed schedule . I cannot help on ppm or % as I do not monitor these and never have. Introduce nutrients at 1/4 strength at least to start the process. Only water when needed do not follow a "schedule". Good luck my guy
 

Medicanman

Active Member
Thanks Jimmy. Water/feed it is, as needed. 1/4 nutes to start.

How long do you think it will take for them to bounce back? A week or two?
 

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
Thanks Jimmy. Water/feed it is, as needed. 1/4 nutes to start.

How long do you think it will take for them to bounce back? A week or two?
You could see improvement almost instantly or it can take many weeks. EVERYTHING has an effect on how quick they come up.. Worrying will ruin things faster than anything.
 

Medicanman

Active Member
Thanks again. They needed watering tonight so that is exactly what I did. Plain PH water.

As long as they don't look worse I won't worry much. I burned a crop a few years back when I switched nutes but they recovered in about two weeks. It looked different that time and when I measured my runoff it was easy to see what had happened. This one had me puzzled because my runoff ppm is low.
 

Jimmy Sparkle

Well-Known Member
Yeah, I'm not sure on that partner. I'm one of the lucky ones that have p.h perfect water out of the tap. I use city water out of the tap chloramine and all. I'm also a no flush advocate and I never check p.h in run off water. So that being said , that is the back story on why my approach is the way it is. Check your water , if the starting plain water p.h is in range then use it and forget what the run off says. Feel your plants, they are alive and they will tell you what you need to do. Use what knowledge you gain along the way as a foundation and fact as truth. Treat each plant as an individual and like all ladies each one has something unique about them.
 

bloodstone

Well-Known Member
It's hard to say what's wrong with them exactly but it looks like those plants have been in those 6 inch pots for a long time now. 500- 600 ppm is really low on the 500 scale, EC or TDS is a better way to tell us your strength. Seedlings are usually started out at 600 to 700 ppm or an EC of .8 to 1.0, that is including the staring water, then gradually work up to 1.2 , just watch and adjust. Also make your self some seeds so you can experiment with the PH. Screw all that electronic testing crap and get you some drops from general hydroponics, cheap, always works for me even in really dark water. You would be surprised at the wonders that a plant can experience being fed water at 5.5 -5.8. get two plants ph the water at your 6.5 and the other at 5.5. Seen many a plant green up super fast because the ph was too high all the time.
 

bloodstone

Well-Known Member
Seen many a plant die to faulty electronic equipment too, i once had 4 different ph testers at the same time and not one of them synced up with another. give up on those ph ones.
 

jarvild

Well-Known Member
It's hard to say what's wrong with them exactly but it looks like those plants have been in those 6 inch pots for a long time now. 500- 600 ppm is really low on the 500 scale, EC or TDS is a better way to tell us your strength. Seedlings are usually started out at 600 to 700 ppm or an EC of .8 to 1.0, that is including the staring water, then gradually work up to 1.2 , just watch and adjust. Also make your self some seeds so you can experiment with the PH. Screw all that electronic testing crap and get you some drops from general hydroponics, cheap, always works for me even in really dark water. You would be surprised at the wonders that a plant can experience being fed water at 5.5 -5.8. get two plants ph the water at your 6.5 and the other at 5.5. Seen many a plant green up super fast because the ph was too high all the time.
Not trying to be rude but I have plants that don't like to go over 550ppm or they burn so I don't know why you think 500-600ppm is low. I can show you plants that never saw over 500ppm their entire live and produced 26 O'z under a single 600. I'd burn up half my seedling @ 600-700ppm.
 

peteski72

Active Member
My babies are sick. They were transplanted from solo cups 14 days ago. They were fine until then.

After I transplant I watered with PH 6.5 water for two waterings then add nutes at 1/3 strength. My nute PPM value is 500. My water is 120 with no nutes. I use Jungle Juice.

I measured my runoff and the PH is 6.5. My PPM is between 5-600 depending on the pot.

I think its my soil. I had been using Sunshine mix 4 and my shop switched brands so I had to use Nutri Mix HP.
This grow is split between the two soils. There are a few with the Sunshine Mix I had left and they look far better than the NutriMix pots.

I don't have a soil tester but I just ordered one that will test soil PH and NPK values.

I've attached pictures of the worst of them.

What can I do to get my babies back on track?
 

Medicanman

Active Member
Yeah, I'm not sure on that partner. I'm one of the lucky ones that have p.h perfect water out of the tap. I use city water out of the tap chloramine and all. I'm also a no flush advocate and I never check p.h in run off water. So that being said , that is the back story on why my approach is the way it is. Check your water , if the starting plain water p.h is in range then use it and forget what the run off says. Feel your plants, they are alive and they will tell you what you need to do. Use what knowledge you gain along the way as a foundation and fact as truth. Treat each plant as an individual and like all ladies each one has something unique about them.
My water is between 7.0 out of the tap. I'm on a deep well, no chlorine, fluoride, or any other crap.

Thanks
 

Medicanman

Active Member
Not trying to be rude but I have plants that don't like to go over 550ppm or they burn so I don't know why you think 500-600ppm is low. I can show you plants that never saw over 500ppm their entire live and produced 26 O'z under a single 600. I'd burn up half my seedling @ 600-700ppm.
I just did an experiment and filled a pot with plain soil. Poured water in and measured the runoff. It came up at 500ppm with nothing added to the water.

With the AN Jungle Juice product, full strength according to the manufacturers directions of 2 ml per liter gives me a PPM value of 1000. Half strength is 500. This is not including my water ppm value of 125.

I used to use the AN Sensi line and it gave me a PPM of 1500 when mixed according their directions at full strength. When I first switched I messed up by mixing according to Sensi PPM value rather than mixing as per directions. Of course I burned them but after a flush they were fine and I learned. So PPM values don't mean much apparently across product lines. Since then I never go higher than 1000 and have never burned them until now but I guess they were too young for 500 or too starved.

I don't know much about the meters themselves but I think there are variations on the measurement systems. So I mixed as per directions to get the baseline ppm reading as per what my TDS meter shows and then use that to verify my mix.
 

Medicanman

Active Member
Jimmy Sparkle: Things are starting to look up for the girls. They've perked up and new growth is not looking as gnarly after just one watering. I'll be going 1/4 strength nutes for my next watering.

Thanks
 

bloodstone

Well-Known Member
Not trying to be rude but I have plants that don't like to go over 550ppm or they burn so I don't know why you think 500-600ppm is low. I can show you plants that never saw over 500ppm their entire live and produced 26 O'z under a single 600. I'd burn up half my seedling @ 600-700ppm.
I thought I made a point in my post where I asked if he or she could use an EC value and not a ppm because there are two standards for ppm 500/700 scale. You are correct that you can grow great buds at 500 to 600 ppm on the 500 scale..which is 1.0 - 1.2 EC. ( I did make a mistake about the scales in the above post, but can't seem to edit.), which is the EC that I recommended to work up to. I was wrong however giving a ppm nutrient strength to somebody without knowing the scale they use, for that I am sorry. But the EC value which i gave is correct. My bluelab pen has two scales on it and i always look at the left side for ppm reference and it's the 700 scale side. My bad.
 

jarvild

Well-Known Member
I thought I made a point in my post where I asked if he or she could use an EC value and not a ppm because there are two standards for ppm 500/700 scale. You are correct that you can grow great buds at 500 to 600 ppm on the 500 scale..which is 1.0 - 1.2 EC. ( I did make a mistake about the scales in the above post, but can't seem to edit.), which is the EC that I recommended to work up to. I was wrong however giving a ppm nutrient strength to somebody without knowing the scale they use, for that I am sorry. But the EC value which i gave is correct. My bluelab pen has two scales on it and i always look at the left side for ppm reference and it's the 700 scale side. My bad.
No problems, 200-300ppm sounds better than 500-600ppms for seedlings.
 
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