Lol!
Thanks for your feedback with that much detail!Those CAP units are just expensive contractors in a box. They used to make them with an integrated timer but I believe they have been discontinued.
In your scenario, if you purchased that unit, you would run 240v to it, plug all your ballasts into it, and buy a 120v timer of your choice(most common hardware stores will have a few in stock). Plug the 120v timer into any nearby 120v receptacle, and from the timers controlled receptacles, run a cord to the lighting controllers trigger plug. All the timer does is switch on/off 120v to energize a magnetic coil in the CAP unit, that in turn switches the 240v on and off. Do yourself a favor though, go buy a decent DMM(digital multi meter) and test that outlet and make sure it's 240. As for extension cords, it'll be a lot cheaper probably to buy some 12/3 SO cable and the proper amperage and size/shape cord ends that you need. Over 100' in length get 10/3. Voltage drop depends on quite a few different factors but it's guaranteed to be a problem at that lengh. 12/3 means two current carrying conductors, and a ground. Cable/cords are labeled differently than Romex, mc, or any type of building wire. 12/3 Romex means 3 current carrying conductors, and ground is there as well but doesn't count.
Last but not least if you're unsure of anything your doing electrically, please stop and get some help. Screwing up plumbing, wrong size ducts, things not level, etc are mistakes you can fix later when you notice them, and some water in the floor or whatever can be mopped up. It's hard as hell to fix a burned down house bro.
Thanks for the feedbackThe 3rd shielded conductor is completely unnecessary. So is the size. 14/2 is plenty for 2 600 watt 240v ballasts. Amps is amps regardless of voltage.
But in this scenario I would suggest the op hire someone to do this seeing he has very limited knowledge in electrical and is asking for serious injury.
Do you mean I have my controller connect with the plug that fit the replaceable that I already have?To make life a lot easier, I'd say just get your lighting controller, take a picture of the existing 240 receptacle, and go down to the electrical shop and tell them what you need to connect. They'll most likely be able to cut some cable and make a cord for you that'll be plug and play with the right size wires and plugs, then all you'll have to do is hook your timer up. Or just call an electrician out, no permits will be required for what you're trying to do.
Certain things you can figure out as you go and usually make out alright, electricity is not one of those things.
For now I will only have 3 600s. My breaker only hold 20amp. But for 3 600s, it's safe right?you can draw around 4k watts from that source
just use a nice thick power lead cos resistance will add load but you`ve got a bit of headroom but I would only fire up 2 hids at a time max, maybe even stagger them by 15mins
As when they fire up they draw more, so I normally stagger them plus a lot of timers can only handle firing up 1 hps lamp at a time, unless you`ve brought something a bit more heavy duty
Thanks for the feedback.I have my 2 - 1000W magnetic ballasts hooked up to a single 120V on their own 25A breaker (along with 2 oscillating fans @ 80W max running constantly) and the wire doesnt even hardly get warm. I have my "light on" times staggered by 3 minutes so it isnt a full draw all at once when both lights come on. Never run 2 lights on one timer. Most are rated 120V 15A.
After some research, I think know what you mean just by now...The 3rd conductor on a 240v is usually only used in a critical gfci circuit. The plug on a 240v ballast is 3 prongs. 2 hot and neutral/ground.
Thanks for the feedback.
I want my light on 240v. When I have my ballast connect on120v. I can feel the light is not bright as 240v.
My timer now run total 1000W on 240V, thats the one that gets warm. Thats why I want to buy a controller. Make everything nice and safe.
thanks for sharing your experienced.
After some research, I think know what you mean just by now...
Sorry for asking those dummy questions.
Regarding to sonson176 mentionedThe cheaper timers normally get burnt out running 1 x 600w hps or 1 x 1000w hps, you get some "heavy duty" ones that can handle a 600w or 1000w all day maybe even 2 of them
The problem is the load they take to start up them mechanical timers don`t take it well but the heavy duty ones are better
Yeah 240v will be brighter if you ever get a 400v supply and a 400v`ish ballast there even better
The 400v`s are more efficient as the hids run on 400v so there not having to step up the voltage but you need a 400v supply and most people don`t have that, but double ended 400v is the king of the hidsRegarding to sonson176 mentioned
I will have my controller 120v plug into timer. Controller itself it's actually operate 240v for my light. So timer only carry the power of the controller. I think I'm gonna fine.
I'm not sure what the heavy duty one is. Could you you some link if possible
Never seen 400v bulbs fire. Would like to see if I have any chance
400v its more like industrial use from where I live here . I can not imagine if I use 400v. dont even know how can I have power with 400v. shit man it could be consider commercial grow if get caught growing hydro. at least 5 years in prison not joking around here. I ma just stay low grow for myself and couple friends.The 400v`s are more efficient as the hids run on 400v so there not having to step up the voltage but you need a 400v supply and most people don`t have that, but double ended 400v is the king of the hids
shame a 50v led beats it but costs more per W to buy/build, would be cool once they get the leds upto 200v`ish then the ac direct ones will give off less heat and you`ll be pretty much able to just wire them in to the mains, lol
you have to shop around bud400v its more like industrial use from where I live here . I can not imagine if I use 400v. dont even know how can I have power with 400v. shit man it could be consider commercial grow if get caught growing hydro. at least 5 years in prison not joking around here. I ma just stay low grow for myself and couple friends.
I dont have any experienced with LED either, Its really expensive and cost even more if I get one ship from state.
Would like to have a try if I can get one with good deal.
Do you mean make a DIY led? Is work as well as those expensive panels?you have to shop around bud
You can find 100w or bigger cob chips cheap like from £1 per chip, the chip is like the bulb, then you use thermal cement to glue it to the heatsink and then wire in the driver, there a lot like any other lamp with a driver but if you get it right leds will give you more and last longer plus they don`t get as hot as hps so the plants have to touch them to start a fire, lol
I`d just go with 13amp uk plugs, maybe put some 16amp fuse wire in them, your not going to draw 20 amps, or use 3 220v timers and 3 plugs
your other options would be to find a 220v heating controller they normally can be used to turn 200 to 300v on and off via times and temperatures shop around see what you can find