http://rollitup.org/t/matching-drivers-and-cobs.883866/Good thread lots of serious info here. I'm looking to build a Vero light for a 2x2 flower box. Im thinking 4 Vero 18's would cover that area? I'm having some trouble pairing a driver to run all 4. Any info from the informative Vero community would be awesome!
I'm building a 6 vero 18 light using the hlg-185h-c1050a from meanwell for a 2x2 area. I'm using 4 3000k and 2 4000k and they will produce a little over 185w, or just over 46w sq/ft. There will be 2 rows of 3 cobs, both will have the 3000k on the ends and the 4000k in the middles.Good thread lots of serious info here. I'm looking to build a Vero light for a 2x2 flower box. Im thinking 4 Vero 18's would cover that area? I'm having some trouble pairing a driver to run all 4. Any info from the informative Vero community would be awesome!
Thanks. I like the idea of the six veros. I think my build will be similar. I may look in to driving them at 700ma for veg, then stepping it up to 1050ma for flowering as I will be using the light for both phases. Thanks againI'm building a 6 vero 18 light using the hlg-185h-c1050a from meanwell for a 2x2 area. I'm using 4 3000k and 2 4000k and they will produce a little over 185w, or just over 46w sq/ft. There will be 2 rows of 3 cobs, both will have the 3000k on the ends and the 4000k in the middles.
I plan on running Autos so I wanted a light that would be mostly flower but would also have a good enough spectrum to get good growth for the month or so of veg. I also didn't want to mess with switching lights from veg to flower, especially since its a small area and would only be one or two plants at the most
well for the hlg 185 c1400 it says 3.93 ?! so is it possible to use them at full power like a cxb?
Thats why I went with the A version of the driver, it has a built in dimmer that will let you turn it down to 525mah. I plan on running mine at between 525-700 when the seeds first pop and slowly turning them up over the course of 3 weeks, which is usually when Autos start flowering.Thanks
Thanks. I like the idea of the six veros. I think my build will be similar. I may look in to driving them at 700ma for veg, then stepping it up to 1050ma for flowering as I will be using the light for both phases. Thanks again
PWM for dimming?Thats why I went with the A version of the driver, it has a built in dimmer that will let you turn it down to 525mah. I plan on running mine at between 525-700 when the seeds first pop and slowly turning them up over the course of 3 weeks, which is usually when Autos start flowering.
Now if you wanted to dim down more than 50% you could go with the B version of the driver and buy an external pot that would allow yo to dim down something like 90% and with the addition of another thing, the name escapes me at the moment you could dim all the way down to 0.
A potentiometer, I think its the C version that would allow PWM dimming, but its all a little over my head. Thats why I just went with the A version which has a little screw built in and I would'nt want to go much lower than 525mah anyway.PWM for dimming?
Or a potentiometer! (From 100 to 10%)
Are you going to go 20/4 from start to finish?
Change a timer from 18/6 to 12/12 is easy to do and will provide you a more potent weed (but since you smoke pure weed maybe auto are easier to smoke pure...!?!?)
CU
The solderless option is nice and was what I planned on using at first. But after doing some research I learned the pico ez-mate connectors are only rated for something like 120v and my build was going to be 180v. So for my build I I would have either had to go with 2 drivers or do what I'm gonna do and just solder the wires to the cobs.But even if the v22 were just as efficient as vero29,10 etc, i think that the vero being solder less is a huge plus...
They=connectors, right?I also wouldn't risk running more than what they are rated for because you can risk failure or even worse a fire.
BonjourSo, i was looking at the v 22, but then someone said(in this thread) that the v 22 is not that efficient. But If I'm not wrong, the datasheet states 120lm/w at 85c. (3000k @ typical current)
But even if the v22 were just as efficient as vero29,10 etc, i think that the vero being solder less is a huge plus...
So, I would like to know how does stealth/small cabinets vs large grows light requirement.
Like, 30w/sqft is nice. But if I have a stealth 1.3sqft grow with Mylar on the walls, or if I have a large 3x4 area. Is 30w/sqft good for both?
If I plan to use one spectrum from seed to harvest. Should I go 3000 or 4000k? Or it depends on the genetics of each plant(auto vs unknown seeds)
And again, for a 1.3 sqft stealth grow I'm aiming at 40w total. For a better canopy coverage should I go 1 x v18 @ 1.3a or multiple v10/13 cobs at a total 40w?
Cheers
Hello,Bonjour
In a PC box I would go with Vero10 maybe 13 @500mA (3 = 48w)
Idk if there is V13 3500ºk but I would go that route!
CU
BonjourHello,
Actually in my case it is a 1.5x1 and 2.5 ft tall cabinet box...
Actually I harvested my first growth in that cabinet. Veg with 2x45w cfl 6500 k , and flowered some buds with 3 x 16w led 3000k e27 bulbs(they claimed 1600lm at 16 w so its not true I guess....)
For even canopy in 1.5sqft and 2.5 ft tall with 3 vero 10 @ total 48w... What about spacing them vs one centered heatsink?
Cheers and thanks
BonjourThanks for the tips!
[email protected] sounds amazing, but my actual grow space is very small. And I'm afraid of getting the LEDs too close to the plant and burn them...
I'm trying to avoid the idea of 3 or 4 cobs in 1.3 sqft due to final cost and multiple drivers, wire, heatsinks, fans. But at the same time I don't have enought distance from the cobs to the plant, so multiple cobs tend to give a more equal coverege.
Now I'm looking for the prices of cheap 36-84 @ 350(or 500)ma drivers to run 2 vero 10( or 13) per cob...
When running 2 cobs in series, like 2 vero 18 @ 60w(2x30w) each in its own CPU cooler, any problem due to different temperature and different Vf?
Cheers