Diy Cxb3590 2x4 help!

[scubasteve1206]

So I've been doin some research and I'm going to build a light for my 2x4 grow area. I was wondering what a good setup would be I was thinking 4 3590s 3000k ran at 700ma or should I do 8 3599s at 700ma? I just don't know if that's too much light. Any input will help thanks. Also it's for my flowering tent and was going to use 90deg lenses

 

[VegasWinner]

50WPSF X 8 SF = 400W
I would go with 8 CXB3590 @ 700mA is 50W/CoB giving you 400W max, just what you want. so you will need two C700 Drivers and two fans, a fan driver LDD 12/12 1W, two 5.886 x 48" heat sinks and you are good to go.

 

[scubasteve1206]

50WPSF X 8 SF = 400W
I would go with 8 CXB3590 @ 700mA is 50W/CoB giving you 400W max, just what you want. so you will need two C700 Drivers and two fans, a fan driver LDD 12/12 1W, two 5.886 x 48" heat sinks and you are good to go.

Excellent thanks. Do you think that's overdoing it for the area?

 

[brettsog]

You could also run 4 @ 1.4 a and still do well in that space. But 8@ .7 a would be more efficient

 

[scubasteve1206]

Ok great 8 it is I'm gonna order material tonight and start the build

 

[dandyrandy]

I have ran 1000w of 3590's in an 11sq ft area. It works but it will bleach. I start at 800 and finish at 500w. I run my 65 day strains a week quicker. Clones so I see the difference. I'm chopping now at 55 days.

 

[VegasWinner]

I have ran 1000w of 3590's in an 11sq ft area. It works but it will bleach. I start at 800 and finish at 500w. I run my 65 day strains a week quicker. Clones so I see the difference. I'm chopping now at 55 days.

How is the yield?

 

[dandyrandy]

If going for yield I get 800 to 1000g of just Bud. This round 1 ww, 1 3d a heavy yielder, slh, and strawberry amnesia. 30 days veg give or take and I would say 700g. I usually run 6 5 gal buckets and shoot for 2 to 4 colas. If I run that way 6 buckets works. This is soil. No fancy nutes etc. Calmag yes. Next round my 3d again, and bog stuff and I forget what else. I run 600w mostly now. I tried heavier light intensities in veg and Earl flower it seems to help. The last month I start at 600 and the final 2 weeks 500.

 

[MrTwist1]

If going for yield I get 800 to 1000g of just Bud. This round 1 ww, 1 3d a heavy yielder, slh, and strawberry amnesia. 30 days veg give or take and I would say 700g. I usually run 6 5 gal buckets and shoot for 2 to 4 colas. If I run that way 6 buckets works. This is soil. No fancy nutes etc. Calmag yes. Next round my 3d again, and bog stuff and I forget what else. I run 600w mostly now. I tried heavier light intensities in veg and Earl flower it seems to help. The last month I start at 600 and the final 2 weeks 500.

Hmmm I thought the general consensus was to increase light intensity throughout veg and flower (except the last 2 weeks or so), so this is a new idea to me. It seems like it could make sense though... kinda imitating the end of summer and start of autumn (fall). I am all for trying to imitate nature as much as possible. Does anyone else have similar experience with decreasing light intensity?

 

[thetr33man]

50WPSF X 8 SF = 400W
I would go with 8 CXB3590 @ 700mA is 50W/CoB giving you 400W max, just what you want. so you will need two C700 Drivers and two fans, a fan driver LDD 12/12 1W, two 5.886 x 48" heat sinks and you are good to go.

8 x 3590 @ 1.4A would be 400 watts

Thats way more heatsink than you need, even passively cooled at 1.4A thats overkill. If you wanna run 8 3590s at 700mA passively you would need about 80" of heatsink in the 1.8 inch style, which is a very nice option and probably what Im going to do next. If you wanna put a fan on them you can more than cut that in half. Also if you wanna cut your bill down a bit, you could run 2 strings of 4 cobs each from one of the 1750 drivers, each at about 900mA. Put each string on a single 42" 1.8" heatsink and throw a fan in the middle and youd be golden. Get the dimming driver so you can turn things down if you want...

 

[VegasWinner]

Hmmm I thought the general consensus was to increase light intensity throughout veg and flower (except the last 2 weeks or so), so this is a new idea to me. It seems like it could make sense though... kinda imitating the end of summer and start of autumn (fall). I am all for trying to imitate nature as much as possible. Does anyone else have similar experience with decreasing light intensity?

It is not watts you want to increase with LED's it is a combination of heat and luminescence. The higher the Lumens the better growth and faster growth. More lumens at lower wattage is more effective than higher watts and lower lumens. Plants respond to lumens for growth, we think in watts. MH for veg and HPS for bloom traditionally gave different frequencies of light and lumens. A 1000W HPS is limited by hte ability of the plants to absorb the light or lumens. Too high and plants bleach, fade and convert less energy. Fading and bleaching reduces capacity of l;eaves to convert energy. Bright green leaves are best, more chloroplast; green color; to produce energy. Hot summer sun bleaches plants out. you can water them, but the sun will bleach and kill them. LED's allow a new approach, by increasing lumens, increasing production, and profits f done well. I converted from 600W HPS and 400W CFL's for a 1000W flower chamber, and T5's for veg chamber. Did wonders for me, but technology allows so much more now.. peace

 

[Rahz]

So I've been doin some research and I'm going to build a light for my 2x4 grow area. I was wondering what a good setup would be I was thinking 4 3590s 3000k ran at 700ma or should I do 8 3599s at 700ma? I just don't know if that's too much light. Any input will help thanks. Also it's for my flowering tent and was going to use 90deg lenses

Be sure you know what you're getting. If you're talking about the 36 volt 3590s, 8 of them at .7 amps would give you 200 watts total, 64% efficient, 128 par watts, 16 par watts per foot, which would be very nice in a 2x4.

That's 72 watts of heat, split in two bars, 36 watts each. The 5.886 profile can handle just over 2 watts per inch passive, so more than enough would be just enough to support your cob spacing, which in a 4' space I'd suggest 36" sinks with 3 inches on each end and cobs spaced 10 inches apart.

 

[VegasWinner]

@SupraSPL says ->https://www.rollitup.org/t/gonna-do-my-first-diy-led-with-cree-cxa3590.854157/page-3
At 700mA (51W), a 12-20" spread between COBs is doable, depending on the canopy size you need to cover. If you are planning on using active cooling, for (4) CXA3590s (204W)
-3.5" profile - 46" length
-4.23" profile, 36" length
-4.6" serrated, 17.5" length
-4.9" profile, 25.5" length
-5.375" profile, 17.5" length
-5.88" profile, 23" length
-7.28" profile, 17.5" length
-8.46" profile, 15" length

But if you are thinking passive cooling, with a little help from your circulation fan, basically triple the lengths above. I am still experimenting with reducing the passive cooling numbers though, you might be able to get away with a lot less if your circulation fan is hitting them.
peace

 

[thetr33man]

Be sure you know what you're getting. If you're talking about the 36 volt 3590s, 8 of them at .7 amps would give you 200 watts total, 64% efficient, 128 par watts, 16 par watts per foot, which would be very nice in a 2x4.

That's 72 watts of heat, split in two bars, 36 watts each. The 5.886 profile can handle just over 2 watts per inch passive, so more than enough would be just enough to support your cob spacing, which in a 4' space I'd suggest 36" sinks with 3 inches on each end and cobs spaced 10 inches apart.

Going by the DIY cob calculator, it says that a single 5.88 heatsink 30 inches long would be enough for 8 cobs @ 700mA, Wouldnt a single 36 be enough, considering this is a fairly narrow grow area? Maybe even better would be 7 36v 3590s on a 240H-1050B on a single 5.88 44inches long. Should be able to run passive but wouldnt hurt to throw a couple fans on it and keep it COLD?

 

[thetr33man]

@SupraSPL says ->https://www.rollitup.org/t/gonna-do-my-first-diy-led-with-cree-cxa3590.854157/page-3
At 700mA (51W), a 12-20" spread between COBs is doable, depending on the canopy size you need to cover. If you are planning on using active cooling, for (4) CXA3590s (204W)
-3.5" profile - 46" length
-4.23" profile, 36" length
-4.6" serrated, 17.5" length
-4.9" profile, 25.5" length
-5.375" profile, 17.5" length
-5.88" profile, 23" length
-7.28" profile, 17.5" length
-8.46" profile, 15" length

But if you are thinking passive cooling, with a little help from your circulation fan, basically triple the lengths above. I am still experimenting with reducing the passive cooling numbers though, you might be able to get away with a lot less if your circulation fan is hitting them.
peace

IC the confusion, hes talking 72v cobs and I was thinking 36v....

 

[Rahz]

Going by the DIY cob calculator, it says that a single 5.88 heatsink 30 inches long would be enough for 8 cobs @ 700mA, Wouldnt a single 36 be enough, considering this is a fairly narrow grow area? Maybe even better would be 7 36v 3590s on a 240H-1050B on a single 5.88 44inches long. Should be able to run passive but wouldnt hurt to throw a couple fans on it and keep it COLD?

Right on all counts. 44 inch would just barely be enough to get decent temps on 7 @ 1.05 amps, better to add a couple fans and keep things cold. At .7 amps the ideal IMO is one cob per foot, so from a DIY perspective it makes sense to go the extra mile and do two bars, but in practice the difference is probably small. Going with the 1.05 amp option would be a good bit more light though, no two ways about it.

If you're really wanting to push the space, go 8 cobs on two bars, at 1.05 using 2 HLG-120H-C1050, couple fans and a dimmer for veg... worth considering. Still, there's something to be said for 3590 at .7 amps, pushing GPW to the extreme with a silent lamp and lower wattage. It just depends on what your angle is.

 

[thetr33man]

If running a HLG-120H-C1050 with all 7 cobs in series, could you use 20ga wire to connect them or would that be too thin? Im a little clueless about what wire gauge to use for different applications. I have 20ga and 16ga stranded available and the 16 is kind of a PITA to solder....

 

[Rahz]

The HLG-120H-C1050 can run 4 of the 36 volt cobs each, so 2 for 8 cobs, just under 300w total.

20 gauge will work, just make sure the wire jacket is rated for high voltage. Often the smaller gauge wire will be rated for low voltage applications. Even 16 gauge wire can be found with low voltage rating.

 

[MrTwist1]

It is not watts you want to increase with LED's it is a combination of heat and luminescence. The higher the Lumens the better growth and faster growth. More lumens at lower wattage is more effective than higher watts and lower lumens. Plants respond to lumens for growth, we think in watts. MH for veg and HPS for bloom traditionally gave different frequencies of light and lumens. A 1000W HPS is limited by hte ability of the plants to absorb the light or lumens. Too high and plants bleach, fade and convert less energy. Fading and bleaching reduces capacity of l;eaves to convert energy. Bright green leaves are best, more chloroplast; green color; to produce energy. Hot summer sun bleaches plants out. you can water them, but the sun will bleach and kill them. LED's allow a new approach, by increasing lumens, increasing production, and profits f done well. I converted from 600W HPS and 400W CFL's for a 1000W flower chamber, and T5's for veg chamber. Did wonders for me, but technology allows so much more now.. peace

With all due respect this did not answer my question at all. I was simply asking if anyone had any experience of lowering light intensity throughout the grow cycle. Not trying to be a dick, just hoping to hear from people who have tried this method.

Also FWIW lumens are a measure of light intensity as experienced by the human eye, and not really particularly useful when talking about plants. PAR is a much more useful measurement when talking about plants and photosynthesis.

I've also grown with HPS and CFL in the past and now doing my first run under COB LED... As with many other folks here; I can attest to the fact that so far my plants really seem to love these Cree LEDs! Peace

 

[VegasWinner]

With all due respect this did not answer my question at all. I was simply asking if anyone had any experience of lowering light intensity throughout the grow cycle. Not trying to be a dick, just hoping to hear from people who have tried this method.

Also FWIW lumens are a measure of light intensity as experienced by the human eye, and not really particularly useful when talking about plants. PAR is a much more useful measurement when talking about plants and photosynthesis.

I've also grown with HPS and CFL in the past and now doing my first run under COB LED... As with many other folks here; I can attest to the fact that so far my plants really seem to love these Cree LEDs! Peace

RealStyles and SuprSPL both have. peace.