FLUSHING before harvest... BS or not?

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since1991

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Its started out as just a few days before chop...then the myth took on a life of its own. The manufacturers put the "flushing agents" on the shelves in the hydroponoc stores and growers were going as far as 2 to 3 weeks before harvest. Thats prime bud swellage time. And no plant food. What the hell?? Even organic soil dorks. Everyone took this bullshit as gospel.
 

saiyaneye

Well-Known Member
I failed to mention also. So now I gather from reading various posts around the net. There are two different types of flush right?

The one where you water with like 2-3 times gallons of water than your pot size

And then...

Just watering with PH water till finish. I am confused :p
 

Resinhound

Well-Known Member
Its started out as just a few days before chop...then the myth took on a life of its own. The manufacturers put the "flushing agents" on the shelves in the hydroponoc stores and growers were going as far as 2 to 3 weeks before harvest. Thats prime bud swellage time. And no plant food. What the hell?? Even organic soil dorks. Everyone took this bullshit as gospel.
Well it sure did help the nutrient manufacturers...overfeed your plants to hell...then buy our "flushing" shit so it doesnt taste bad...people are waking up now.
 

alaskachic

Well-Known Member
Oh really maybe @ very very end of flower in? Huh! Well what about orange juice? I know acidic but. To kick up um let's say Tangerine Dream?
 

Honey Oil Riot Squad

Well-Known Member
READ THIS fine research by a well respected member.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-truth-about-flushing.409622/

Flushing is totally unneeded.

I cure for as much as 2 months! The MINIMUM would be 2 weeks and that's pushing it way hard for me in any way, shape or form!
Ok there's a lot of posts I still have yet to read cuz this was long, but this article seems to know exactly what's up. Thank you Dr who.

There's a couple important notes I gathered from here as to WHY flushing can be bad:
1. The theory with flushing is that it gets excess nutes out of the soil and fan leaves bc when you starve it of nutes it uses the nutes leftover in the soil/ fan leaves up to continue growing the buds, leaving less chemically nutrient taste in plant/ buds bc it is all gone. But there's one problem with this: most of us know there are mobile and immobilie nutes that the plant needs. The plant is 100% capable of using up the mobile nutes left over in it, but on the other hand, it can NOT use the immobile nutrients nearly as efficiently (cuz they're immobile). Some people might say "oh whatever they have most nutes at least" but that's not reliable for this one key reason: ****The chemical reactions happening inside the plant cells are NOT INDEPENDENT REACTIONS.**** I.E. This means for the reaction to actually happen, you will need more than just the mobile nutrients available, you need ALL neccesary nutes, including the immobile nutes. Without ALL nutrients being available to the plant in some amount, there would be issues similar to that in which the mobile nutrients are hardly present as well.

2. The article also mentioned that doing a flush is essentially similar to "curing" your buds while they are still on the plant. So you get better tasting buds sooner than without a flush but you are hurting your final yield bc that's two weeks of no growth or hardly any growth ability on the plant.

That being said I think I'll stick with the same plan I layed out for something halfway in between. This way the plant will still tend to leech out at least some of the excess nutes in the coco/ fan leaves, while still providing neccesarry immobile nutrients to keep the plants ability to do its sticky thang during the critical last couple weeks.


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Honey Oil Riot Squad

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it;s very simple, just look up mobile and immobile nutrients. you can flush all you want but immobile is immmobile.just sayin!!
It would be interesting to see if there is a nutrient line out there that only has immobile nutrients contained in it to see if that works instead.

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Resinhound

Well-Known Member
Feed in moderation,with a reasonable npk ratio,dry and cure properly is all you need.

If you feed at 2000ppm of some 0-50-50 bullshit and chop the next day ofc its gonna taste like shit.
 

Honey Oil Riot Squad

Well-Known Member
Feed in moderation,with a reasonable npk ratio,dry and cure properly is all you need.

If you feed at 2000ppm of some 0-50-50 bullshit and chop the next day ofc its gonna taste like shit.
At this point I've literally just cut out my GROW nutes entirely and am only doing BLOOM MICRO AND cal mag (using GH trio). This was recommended by growweedeasy.com, my favorite site lol (except for the bad info on flushing I guess).
But would any nutes from those three in particular cause a bad taste that I should go just a bit easier on? I've heard magnesium can cause horrible taste, but at the same time calcium is very neccesary especially in coco, so would it be advised to go a bit easier on calmag starting a couple waterings before or should I not do that?

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Honey Oil Riot Squad

Well-Known Member
I know people say it's to remove "salts" but wouldnt you want warm water to aid that??? Or am I just off my rocker here?
NO.
ROOM TEMP. ALWAYS. Lol.
Also warm water if it's from tap will have a lot more salts dissolved in it already. That is why always start from cold water if using tap and let get to room temp.

One of my biggest pet peaves is when people cook pasta with warm tap water. It saves about 30 seconds of waiting for it to boil and then youre cooking your pasta in a bunch of dissolved metals from the hot water heater. Like wtf people. Gross.

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