First attempt at recycling soil

astronautrob

Well-Known Member
I was looking to get some advice on my recent attempt to recycle my soil. I didn't know if what I used/amounts would be sufficient to use the soil in my next grow.

For 1 cf of soil I mixed - 1/3 of my old soil (which was a mix of ffof and perlite, garden lime, kelp meal),
1/3 mushroom compost
1/3 perlite
I also added - 1 cup bone meal
2 cups tomato tone
and 1.5 alfalfa meal
soaked and will let sit a month.

This is my first attempt at recycling my soil so I didn't know if my amendments where enough and if I had the right amounts per cf. My idea was to start simple since I don't have that much expendable cash. Do you guys think this is sufficient for me to reuse my soil on my next grow or do I need to add anything? I have enough money for one, maybe two, more things if I need them. Thanks in advance for any advice
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Sounds good so far. I would add some worm castings and/or think about starting up a worm bin. Shroom compost will help promote fungal life but there's not much here to kick up microbial populations to help break down the stuff already added. Fresh or bagged EWC would help a lot. The best thing you can do right now to ensure success in the future is to begin vermicomposting. It takes awhile to get it established but once you have a steady flow of fresh EWC in your mix you'll see the difference.
I personally use my hands to measure out amendments & usually recycle a bin containing about 5 cu ft of mix at a time. You don't have to be deadly accurate with ratios in recycling your mix.
I would consider adding some more minerals like garden gypsum, azomite, glacial rock dust, and/or soft rock phosphate. Don't get overwhelmed...you can just add one or 2 of these as you aquire amendments slowly over time. Your mix will get better with each recycle as the stuff you add now becomes more available. Get one thing at a time & add it to your recycled soil bin as you get it. You do not have to get everything all at once. What you have now is already better than what it started as...aquire needed amendments over time; they last quite awhile on a shelf. Minerals take forever to break down so you can put these in your mix without allowing time to cook them down unlike the bone meal & tomato tone.
I would add a nitrogen source like manure or guano & let it cook down. I like to use composted chicken manure...Charlie's compost brand is real good shit! Fast available N source for vigorous growth in veg. So all I would add is a mineral or 2, EWC, and maybe an N source & you've got a stellar mix IMO.
 

astronautrob

Well-Known Member
Right on, thanks Richard great info as always. So I'm guessing different compost has different nutrients, which I didn't even think about when I went to buy the stuff. Maybe mushroom compost wasn't the best idea. I was thinking I would get the bulk of N from compost, maybe that was backward thinking....I do have some EWC though so I'll throw those in. Quick question, I already soaked my soil to let it sit so with adding the EWC and minerals should I just top dress (i have the soil cooking in pots) and water again or would I need to pour the soil out and mix it all up again? Also, I'm keeping the soil outside in pots to cook is that ok? I didn't know if it was ok to let it cook outside if it is kind of cold where I'm at.
 
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Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Naw mushroom compost is good but yes there are many kinds of compost all containing different kinds of microbeasts. EWC is really just to add more microbial life which its very rich in..doesn't really do much to add nutrients or feed your plants even though it does contain npk value. You can mix it in your containers or leave it on top; its up to you. It's never too late to add compost & it doesn't even really need cook time. I know lower temps will slow down activity but warmer temps may be on the way soon. If it's very active it will make its own heat; pretty sure outdoors is fine. I do mine indoors but I have a perpetual to maintain & need it done in 30 days. Sometimes I will only add minerals & compost just to keep from having to cook it for a full month. I'm not sure compost alone will give you the N you will need to be water only through out bloom phase but there's lots of things you can add to do this. I add a jobes organic spike or 2 just before flowering which contains blood & bone meal. Btw Blood meal is another good amendment that is high in N.
 

astronautrob

Well-Known Member
OK I'm going to go grab some EWC and azomite tomorrow to add to the mix, and I think I'll run with that for my first go around. Yea it does seem like warmer weather is coming but idk where you are here in CO though that can change in a minute. I think I'm going to bring them inside just to be safe. You only have to water once right? In other words, once you soak it that first time you don't have to water again for the rest of the 30 days right?
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Yeah it'll stay nice & moist for awhile. If it's gonna sit for a month or so it won't need more waterings. The only other amendment I suggest highly but forgot to mention above is oyster shell. It helps regulate ph in the root zone. The lime you added helps but oyster shell flour won't break down as fast & is not water soluble. Again you can add it when you get around to acquiring it; if you don't make it for this cycle get it for the next one if you can but oyster shell doesn't need to be cooked in.
 

astronautrob

Well-Known Member
So what I ended up adding additionally per cf was...2 cups azomite
2-3 cups EWC (I feel like I should maybe do more)
1 cup sea bird guano 12-11-2 (I thought that would boost my N up to a good level)

I'm planning on making a run tomorrow to get some rock phosphate, and I was planning on some kelp meal too, but will probably look at some oyster shell now that you suggest it. Question though, do you think the phosphate and kelp meal with the oyster shell would be going overboard at this point or you think I should get all three?
 
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Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
Nope get all three; the shit takes so long to break down there's no danger to your plants as a a matter of fact you'll be glad you added all that when you begin to see the results of your labor in mid flowering. Yes you can go up to 50% compost: don't skimp on the EWC
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
I prefer to use the kelp meal in teas instead of adding it to the mix globally but that's just my preference because I need my recycled mix to be ready very quickly. The less that needs to cook the better for my own use but if you've got time to let it cook down in your mix kelp is great source of npk & macros as well.
 

astronautrob

Well-Known Member
Ok cool, yea I used a kelp meal in my last run so I'll probably just do that again. It seemed to work well that way. So I got all three and added those. I have one other question though, and I think this might be a problem, but I don't currently have access to anything like RO water, I just use tap. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with using tap water that has Chloramine in it? I called my water company and they said they don't use it but I've also read about water companies that don't report using it (against EPA policy). Has anyone had any problems using tap water and later found out it had Chloramine in it?
 
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DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Ok cool, yea I used a kelp meal in my last run so I'll probably just do that again. It seemed to work well that way. So I got all three and added those. I have one other question though, and I think this might be a problem, but I don't currently have access to anything like RO water, I just use tap. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with using tap water that has Chloramine in it? I called my water company and they said they don't use it but I've also read about water companies that don't report using it (against EPA policy). Has anyone had any problems using tap water and later found out it had Chloramine in it?
Chloramines aren't actually as effective against microbes as chlorine which is lethal..........They are one hell of a mutherfucker to get out of water if they are in there though. It depends what you are using the water for, if it's just for your root drenches, bubbling with an air pump for 24hours will rid any chlorine and the chloramines become ineffective as soon as they come into contact with organic matter. If you're planning an AACT or nutrient tea, I'd probably increase the initial bubbling to 48 hrs add some molasses and bubble for another 24hrs, you should be good to add your EWC/compost then

I've read that humic acid can eliminate chloramines also, research Elaine Inghams compost extract.......not tea

By the way............having said all of that............I still use an aquarium filter/pump to aerate the water, which I bought before I started learning all this, because my water does have shit loads of both chemicals

Oh......another note........the water companies don't add chloramine, they add another chemical I can't remember, which react's with the chlorine to make chloramines...................there should be information about your water analysis available from you supplier or local government etc
 

Richard Drysift

Well-Known Member
My system uses chloramine so I use RO but I have been collecting rain in buckets & using Walmart RO water which is cheaper than running my unit at home off a hose. I have never tried to bubble my tap water off because I know what's in it but I would try bubbling it for 24 hrs & see how it works for you. Seems like allotta peeps are doing this but have no idea if they are in organic soil or using nutes.
 

Cornfed Dread

Well-Known Member
My system uses chloramine so I use RO but I have been collecting rain in buckets & using Walmart RO water which is cheaper than running my unit at home off a hose. I have never tried to bubble my tap water off because I know what's in it but I would try bubbling it for 24 hrs & see how it works for you. Seems like allotta peeps are doing this but have no idea if they are in organic soil or using nutes.
I use same water bro. 1.95$ for 5 gal. Consistent quality and always open.
 

astronautrob

Well-Known Member
I believe it's Ammonia that's added to tap water which reacts with the chlorine to form chloramine. Good to know I can follow the instructions above on 48hr aeration, then 24hr w/molas and then add compost mix. Save a few dollars on bottled water.
Can I ask why you wait 24 hours after adding the molasses to the water? I'm thinking because the Ammonia mixes with the chlorine to make chloramine the water company can say they don't add chloramine but you can still find it in tap water.
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Can I ask why you wait 24 hours after adding the molasses to the water? I'm thinking because the Ammonia mixes with the chlorine to make chloramine the water company can say they don't add chloramine but you can still find it in tap water.
It's probably not nessasary, but it gives me a little peace of mind. From what I understand, simply adding the molasses should neutralise any chlorine, but an extra 24hr aeration before adding the microbes, gives a little more insurance, at least the way I see it
 

2ANONYMOUS

Well-Known Member
I personally wouldn't worry about chlorine so much . Never understood why so many do ??? Contrary to popular belief Chlorine is a essential element for all living things including plants it helps in many ways people got to stop baby sitting there micro;s they been here billions of years before us and will be here billions of years after us
With that said there is no need to remove chlorine at all make a tea have at her no need to bubble for 24 hrs it only takes 6 hrs max to disolve what ever your using and 9 times out of 10 its to strong
anyways to Each there own personally have not worried BOUT CHLORINE IN 20 YEARS FOR MY LIVE GARDENS week 6 water IMG3233.jpg IMG3219.jpg
 

DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
I personally wouldn't worry about chlorine so much . Never understood why so many do ??? Contrary to popular belief Chlorine is a essential element for all living things including plants it helps in many ways people got to stop baby sitting there micro;s they been here billions of years before us and will be here billions of years after us
With that said there is no need to remove chlorine at all make a tea have at her no need to bubble for 24 hrs it only takes 6 hrs max to disolve what ever your using and 9 times out of 10 its to strong
anyways to Each there own personally have not worried BOUT CHLORINE IN 20 YEARS FOR MY LIVE GARDENS week 6 water View attachment 3641532 View attachment 3641539
From my understanding, the chlorine put into tap water is very different to the chloride that plants and humans need to survive.
I know for a fact that my tap water is heavily treated with chlorine and ammonia to make chloramines,. I'm not questioning your experience, I've never actually tried making an AACT with water straight out of the tap, so I wouldn't know for sure how the micro-organisms would get on with my water and TBH I'll only make an AACT if I feel something isn't quite right with my plant/soil. For this reason I'd be worried about taking the risk and ruining the tea, then pouring something not so healthy on the ladies.

I grew in coco mainly for many years and have dabbled with various hydro systems and never worried about it then, it is actually beneficial to have it in the water then to help keep things sterile. I also added hydrogen peroxide too my reservoirs to kill all the microbes, LOL

I do agree that 6 hrs is probably enough bubbling, 24hrs is just more convenient, I'm usually at work 6 hrs before I'm in my garden though and visit my garden at a similar time everyday, so it's easier to set it bubbling one day and use it the next.

here's a little info on the difference between chlorine and chloride
http://www.mineralresourcesint.com/docs/research/chlorine-chloride.pdf
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
From my understanding, the chlorine put into tap water is very different to the chloride that plants and humans need to survive.
I know for a fact that my tap water is heavily treated with chlorine and ammonia to make chloramines,. I'm not questioning your experience, I've never actually tried making an AACT with water straight out of the tap, so I wouldn't know for sure how the micro-organisms would get on with my water and TBH I'll only make an AACT if I feel something isn't quite right with my plant/soil. For this reason I'd be worried about taking the risk and ruining the tea, then pouring something not so healthy on the ladies.

I grew in coco mainly for many years and have dabbled with various hydro systems and never worried about it then, it is actually beneficial to have it in the water then to help keep things sterile. I also added hydrogen peroxide too my reservoirs to kill all the microbes, LOL

I do agree that 6 hrs is probably enough bubbling, 24hrs is just more convenient, I'm usually at work 6 hrs before I'm in my garden though and visit my garden at a similar time everyday, so it's easier to set it bubbling one day and use it the next.

here's a little info on the difference between chlorine and chloride
http://www.mineralresourcesint.com/docs/research/chlorine-chloride.pdf
funny I just had that discussion a lil while ago.
the differences between elemental and ionic chlorine etc
 
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