giantsfan24
Well-Known Member
Looks really good. That's how want my next grow to look. Nice work!
800w of CXB3070 in a 4x4
Traplife
Well-Known Member
Thanks you sir, with enough research and knowledge you can really do anything.
Mr.Goodtimes
Well-Known Member
Very interested in seeing this play out. I have the same exact tent as you w 3 600w in there now and the temps are hard to deal with.
Seriously considering the switch to led if I see them playing out w comparable yields and less heat. Could care less about electric, but it'd be nice to get a break on that too lol.
Anyway, grow on buddy. I'll be watchin'
Seriously considering the switch to led if I see them playing out w comparable yields and less heat. Could care less about electric, but it'd be nice to get a break on that too lol.
Anyway, grow on buddy. I'll be watchin'
Traplife
Well-Known Member
Yeah heat was my #1 issue which led me to going with COB technology. Our canopy stays at 75f with full lights on, in a space half the size of the tent! (4x4) and this is at a height of 21" we could go higher for more spread and less heat at the canopy, but I don't want to give up much intensity; I might raise the lights a little into flower.Very interested in seeing this play out. I have the same exact tent as you w 3 600w in there now and the temps are hard to deal with.
Seriously considering the switch to led if I see them playing out w comparable yields and less heat. Could care less about electric, but it'd be nice to get a break on that too lol.
Anyway, grow on buddy. I'll be watchin'
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
You using all 4 cobs through veg or the half switches?
Why does everyone want to run partial power during flower or raise the lights? Run your lights as low as possible. 21" is pretty high IMO. I am running 600w in a 4x4 of CXB3590 about 12-16" above the canopy. This is my second run with LED and I have never had an issue with "light burn". Just because you are using LED does not mean you should pull them further away due to being stronger than HPS.
If you look at the picture of your room, you can see on the wall the reflection of the light cut-off angles. You can lower those what looks to be 12" and not lose any spread over your canopy.
If you look at the picture of your room, you can see on the wall the reflection of the light cut-off angles. You can lower those what looks to be 12" and not lose any spread over your canopy.
Traplife
Well-Known Member
We use them only in the flower room at full power, we veg under 3 mars hydro600 panels.
I raised the lights at first because of the canopy heat, and second because our scrog net is basically filled, and i want the most even light distribution even to the outer edges. According to the light's manufacture theres a significant drop in par when you lower to 18" check it out :
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
This outta be cool! I am using 300 watts of CXB3070 w/ 150w of monos in a 4'x4' & getting huge growth. Can only imagine how well you're gonna do w/ 600w. I'm running mine w/ no lenses, only reflector cups & I noticed I can grow pretty close. Went down to 7" w/ no negative effects. My plants love the COBs, Must be the broader spectrum. Nice job!
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Traplife
Well-Known Member
im sorry you're correct i meant photosynthetic photon flux density. ppfd or PPF if you dont measure lux/m^2 . the chart is just labeled incorrectly. the intensity of the light is diminished at the edges of the area by lowering the lights, not the quality of light. You are right in the fact that the edges would still be receiving light within photosynthetic active radiation range (PAR) but the density/intensity of the light would be diminished. At least i would assume so, i will experiment in lowering them and see what the footprint looks like
Hybridway
Well-Known Member
I only had it that low as a test to how close I can run w/ COBs & still have a happy plant. Mine have 120• reflector cups so even at 7" it still covered the 4'x4'. I could tell by the reflection on the wall as to where exactly the light spread was. I'm @ 16" now which is as high as I can get the light & it covers the area with extra to go. They actually grew out of the box by over a foot & still had adequate coverage.
Are you running w/ lenses? I had issues w/ mine. Had to be 30" up to cover the 4'x4', so lenses weren't an option with me.
My 6 CXB3070's w/ monos covers the area real well with tons of light. Couldn't imagine what 16 of them will do! WOW! That's allota light. Should be a hellova grow. Can't wait to see. Might consider a double trellis? That's where I went wrong.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
In my opinion once you have 800-1000 instantaneous umol at the center of the canopy directly under the light is when you should stop raising the light. Anything over 1000 without supplemental co2 is probably not as effective as spreading that light out to the rest of the canopy. The use of orca film inside that tent will increase the effectiveness of using the walls to reflect the outer light. Just my opinion.
But you diminish when you raise the lights too..... Which is why properly spaced out COB lighting is a must.
Traplife
Well-Known Member
yes it would diminish in the center, which is already getting blasted with 1000+umol/sec. and as @Stephenj37826 said, it is not as effective in a normal setting (without supplemental co2) to have them that low. I believe its better to have higher readings on the outer edges of the canopy than crazy readings in the center. But i'm a novice grower so who knows what i will discover!
Traplife
Well-Known Member
These lights have 90 degree lens angle i believe, according to the manufactures website.Yeah it is a ton of light! i wanted to make sure that lack of light wasn't an issue and i think i might have went overkill but its better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it! The whole distance from the canopy issue really makes me want to buy a ppf or par reader, but its expensive and hard to find a legit quantum reader. Most of the cheap meters you see are simply just lumen/footcandle meters programmed to take the input and run it through a formula to get a rough PAR reading.
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
In a single fixture layout Cob spacing is more important than a multiply fixture layout .In an overlapping plan you control light intensity and spread of course by fixture placement and mounting height. The inverse square law doesn't really apply in multiple light layouts. In most instances if you are using lens then you have a circular light pattern. So in order to hit the corners of a square grow space you'll probably end up with some light on the walls. I can't stress enough how important having the highest quality reflective material is important. The plants themselves of course reflex a % of light and having the best reflective material helps with this as well. Orca film is great. The Orca tent is also very nice. My complaint with the tent is I wish it was adjustable to be taller like the gorilla grow tents.
kachiga
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your log. I am looking to replace my 600 HPS during the summer time, I have California Lightworks 440w now. I was looking at other leds and their grows to get a better idea. I am wondering what the diode size is on those? I couldn't find it on the web site, since they cost a bit more (Atleast on that web site you linked. Says 799.00)
Also what is cob? I have seen this word a few times now on here, (I am looking it up too.)
Also what is cob? I have seen this word a few times now on here, (I am looking it up too.)
GoGreenLEDs
Well-Known Member
COB stands for chip on board and it's a cluster of LEDs in a single package encapsulated in yellow phosphor they are more efficient than individual leds. It's a 23mm light emitting surface that produces about 30% more light than California light works per watt. We offer RIU members a 20% discount, by using coupon RIU20 so the price comes to $639.20.