gazan114
Well-Known Member
That looks wet still or am I wrong?View attachment 3371413 I prefer thecomb/crumble
Vacuum Purge times and temp for different wax consistency
- Thread starter chef oli
- Start date
questionforyou
New Member
What type of griddle though?
DonFlaccido
New Member
Well I went to Walmart and picked up their cheapest smallest griddle, set that on low with a pot of water on it, let it heat up then just threw my vac chamber in it. This way you won't need a super low temp heating application.
As for me, I'm trying to go for the shatter or pull-and-snap oil, and my 5th run I was able to finally get pull and snap. But when I went to dab it I accidentally dropped it on my cold floor and it did indeed shatter to pieces. Had to pick up what i could salvage but I'm finally pulling what I want
As for me, I'm trying to go for the shatter or pull-and-snap oil, and my 5th run I was able to finally get pull and snap. But when I went to dab it I accidentally dropped it on my cold floor and it did indeed shatter to pieces. Had to pick up what i could salvage but I'm finally pulling what I want
wrecksone
New Member
Shatter had nothing to do with temperature. To get real shatter you need to winterize or have a dewaxing sleeve/closed loop. Fats and lipids will only be filtered out at sub zero temperatures for hours at a time. Keep your heating pad around 100. GET RID OF THAT GRIDDDLE AND BUY A HEATING PAD AT WALMART FOR 10$
antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
just dont use vac and purge it in a pyrex in the sink with just barely boiling water yea I know 212 (is that boiling?) is too hot but by the time your cold sink and cold dish soak up that heat its just right temp and you will wanna put another pot on so u can add more hot water till it gets all the way purged and budders up. you need to scrape all the bho into a small glob in the center of the pyrex if you want a nice honeycomb texture its important how you form that final glob
antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
I got crystal clear bright yellow shit with just tubez, tane and a vac chamb, no dewax no winterize nothin, was suprised
antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
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antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
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antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
the key seemed to be freezing the tubes loaded up and the tane overnite, always staying below 100-110f on the OIL TEMP and didnt pull full vac right away, low and slow i think over 2 days.
too high of temps will def either budder it up or make it darker and its all most def strain dependent too.
too high of temps will def either budder it up or make it darker and its all most def strain dependent too.
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antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
line your pyrex ur blasting into with this slickroll ptfe sheet and it helps a LOT to glass it up too I noticed. when you scrape off a pyrex onto parchment or another dish or whatever you cause nucleation and thats what makes the thc fall out of the single phase and become opaque, so with this slick sheet ptfe you can blast into it, purge and finish on it you never have to do a transfer (usually via razor) .. freezing everything and the slick roll got me from like 1/3 glassy clear shatter 2/3 waxy glassy stuff to 100% glass
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antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
every pile is the run of a different strain, this is before i had vac and I would just purge in the sink w hot water
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antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
this is with vac, left darker is grape ox right slab is la cheese
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antimatt3r
Well-Known Member
the griddle works fine for me you just have to remember that it sends pulses of really high heat to maintain whatever the temp knob is set at, it does not keep it at that certain temp constantly so its dangerous and not advisable to have your concentrate vessel in direct contact with the heat due to the nature of the burner basically being on or off its just timed. I have a big pot that I sit on top of the burner, bring the water to 110-125 then sit the vac chamber inside the pot so its touching the water and that gives me a surface oil temp of around 100. best value vacs actualltymakes round heating pads that do stay at desired temp but with the griddle and double boiler type setup and a cheap thermometer (well and an infrared one
) pretty much ur first run you figure out ok the outside of the pot, that the chamber is sitting in is say 125F the inside of the chamber sufrace temp is gonna be like 120 or 115 then if its my first purge before flipping i got the layer of pyrex glass too so that takes away another 5-10 to give your shatter the correct temp of around 100 degrees F for purging overnite, and I do NOT leave my pump running but of course leave the heat on.... flip in morning and go another few hours till its not bubbling anymore, ended up with half oz each run of two pretty big tubesAttachments
Do you release the pressure before you let it cool down or after?
gazan114
Well-Known Member
It depends on the Extract sometimes yes and no, letting it cool can make a big cookie, once you get the size you want let it cool imo
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
Every strain is different, but if you put a sample in a thin film (<1/16") and start raising the oven temperature without vacuum, until it fully melts, that is the temperature that the surface tension is low enough for bubbles to readily escape, and which you can most rapidly purge the solvent with minimal decarboxylation and loss of monoterpenes. Start vacuuming at that point if your goal is shatter.
Start lower if your goal is a wax, and pump longer.
Since the material ostensibly started out as a carboxylic acid shatter, it should remain that way unless your process changes it to something else.
It also doesn't take copious experience to reliably produce shatter, but it helps if you have a good process, and equipment to support it.
I just helped install and instill life into a Pharmgold Mk IVC, as well as train the excited new owners to run it. After two runs using low grade electric trim to clean the pipes, which we discarded, we made a practice run using prime material, and elected to turn it into cotton candy before removing it from the Mk IVC for subsequent processing.
It came out of the collection tank a pale yellow solidified foam, and a bubble is about the thinnest film you can draw a resin into for purging purposes, so we chilled it further in a freezer for about 30 min and used a spatula to turn it into a fine dry powder, which we sprinkled on parchment and were able to easily meet residual solvent standards after only 4 hours, leaving the extremely aromatic end product in pull and snap consistency, with THC in the high 80%. A surprise couch locker on anecdotal testing, due to extremely high mycene.
Based on those results, we tweaked the process by freezing the column overnight and dropping the inject temperature of the n-Butane to around -20C, using liquid N2 as coolant through the Mk IVC's counter flow injection heat exchanger.
Since it was for a cup competition, I simply watched and offered encouragement and council, while the new owners strutted their stuff with their newest equipment and training, using material from their own gardens and curing process.
That further lowered the plant wax pickup, which reduced concentrate cloudiness, making it even purdier, while leaving it highly aromatic and tasty, as well as in pull and snap consistency. I returned home before seeing the lab results, but I predict an increase in targeted elements, given that we've further decreased the amount of plant waxes extracted.
Start lower if your goal is a wax, and pump longer.
Since the material ostensibly started out as a carboxylic acid shatter, it should remain that way unless your process changes it to something else.
It also doesn't take copious experience to reliably produce shatter, but it helps if you have a good process, and equipment to support it.
I just helped install and instill life into a Pharmgold Mk IVC, as well as train the excited new owners to run it. After two runs using low grade electric trim to clean the pipes, which we discarded, we made a practice run using prime material, and elected to turn it into cotton candy before removing it from the Mk IVC for subsequent processing.
It came out of the collection tank a pale yellow solidified foam, and a bubble is about the thinnest film you can draw a resin into for purging purposes, so we chilled it further in a freezer for about 30 min and used a spatula to turn it into a fine dry powder, which we sprinkled on parchment and were able to easily meet residual solvent standards after only 4 hours, leaving the extremely aromatic end product in pull and snap consistency, with THC in the high 80%. A surprise couch locker on anecdotal testing, due to extremely high mycene.
Based on those results, we tweaked the process by freezing the column overnight and dropping the inject temperature of the n-Butane to around -20C, using liquid N2 as coolant through the Mk IVC's counter flow injection heat exchanger.
Since it was for a cup competition, I simply watched and offered encouragement and council, while the new owners strutted their stuff with their newest equipment and training, using material from their own gardens and curing process.
That further lowered the plant wax pickup, which reduced concentrate cloudiness, making it even purdier, while leaving it highly aromatic and tasty, as well as in pull and snap consistency. I returned home before seeing the lab results, but I predict an increase in targeted elements, given that we've further decreased the amount of plant waxes extracted.
Quagmire6969
Active Member
Very interesting thread I know there is no right answers as for temps etc. I have one question though that I feel can be answered. Does the amount of time of purging different if I'm purging say a 40 gram slab compared to a much smaller run where Im only purging 5-10 grams of bho of the same material and process used?
Quagmire6969
Active Member
That's what i thought