The Importance of pH

How important is pH to the quality of the bud?

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Doogan

Doogan

Well-Known Member
MoodyShoes said:
I think it's fairly obvious what i meant but thanks for the informative post. Any advice on how i should tie my shoelaces, or how to ride a bike? Maybe you can tell us all why it's important to wrap up warm in winter...
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Feel free to add some information to the conversation. No need to get pouty. This isn't a pissing contest.
 
MoodyShoes

MoodyShoes

Well-Known Member
Doogan said:
Feel free to add some information to the conversation. No need to get pouty. This isn't a pissing contest.
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I've already added the crucial information. There's no need to state the patently obvious. This is a stupid (although perhaps ambiguous would be a better word) question which will only serve to confuse a new grower looking for a definitive answer as to the importance of using a PH meter. Picking up on a semantic error between the word 'hydro' and 'hydroton' and following it with what can only be described as a 'six year old introduction to cannabis cultivation' is not only fairly pointless, but moreover, it's condescending.

The bottom line is (as i've already said) that it depends upon the medium.
 
Doogan

Doogan

Well-Known Member
MoodyShoes said:
I've already added the crucial information. There's no need to state the patently obvious. This is a stupid (although perhaps ambiguous would be a better word) question which will only serve to confuse a new grower looking for a definitive answer as to the importance of using a PH meter. Picking up on a semantic error between the word 'hydro' and 'hydroton' and following it with what can only be described as a 'six year old introduction to cannabis cultivation' is not only fairly pointless, but moreover, it's condescending.

The bottom line is (as i've already said) that it depends upon the medium.
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That is all you had to say...

Jumping into a conversation and adding no realtime information docent help. Condescendence also dent help. If you were so inclined to help and read this thread then you must be in a similar situation.

MoodyShoes really takes on the full aspect of his Screen name.
 
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PerfectGrower

Well-Known Member
Low pH and you will uptake micronutrients like Boron, Manganese, and Zinc much more. This will cause toxicity issues. If it's too high, you risk potential phosphorus and micronutrient deficiencies.


The pH of your substrate will change over the plant's growth cycle.

A 5.8 to 6.2 swing in soilless mediums is ideal. Having a good calibrated TDS and pH pen is very important. I don't care what any nutrient company says :)
 
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Doogan

Doogan

Well-Known Member
PerfectGrower said:
Low pH and you will uptake micronutrients like Boron, Manganese, and Zinc much more. This will cause toxicity issues. If it's too high, you risk potential phosphorus and micronutrient deficiencies.


The pH of your substrate will change over the plant's growth cycle.

A 5.8 to 6.2 swing in soilless mediums is ideal. Having a good calibrated TDS and pH pen is very important. I don't care what any nutrient company says :)
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Thank you. I actually did a pH check this week. Using AN Con along with some sugars and enzymes, I was surprised to find that the solution was respectably 5.9. I know that over time the medium will change in balance, I have seen some growers test the run-off to gauge the soil's pH. But is there an easier or different way that is reliable?
 
VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
Headadead said:
Because you have a properly mixed soil. pH is unimportant until it's screwed up. So.. ultimately pH matters. It's like asking if water is important.
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and i quote.........

Organic pH issues

I hear a lot of people asking or talking about the pH of their organic soil mix or organic nute solution and how they might correct or adjust it. pH in organics is not an issue like it is in synthetic growing.
The best place to settle the pH issues in organics is within the grow medium. A medium rich in humates (humus) is the place to start. Humates work to "buffer" the pH of organic mediums and the nutes you pour (or mix) into it.

Humates come from compost, worm castings and bottled humus. If you use a peat based medum, use dolomite lime to raise the pH of the acidic peat. Dolomite should be used in any soil or soiless medium to provide magnesium and calcium. But since we are talking about pH here, I'll mention dolomite lime's pH correction benefits.

A medium of coir has a pH near neutral (or 7.0). But humates are still neded to allow uptake of organic nutrients that are outside a near neutral pH range.
With an active medium rich in humates you can pour in nutes like Pure Blend Pro, Earth Juice and guano teas way outside the optimum pH range without worry. The humus will allow the nutes to be taken up through the roots, even at such an extreme pH reading.
So throw those pH meters away folks and enjoy the ease and safety of organic gardening.

Chlorine tap water

Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.

Flushing

There is absolutely no reason to "flush" organic nute solutions from your soil mix. In an organic grow, the plants don't take up the organic nutes (guano, bone, blood or kelp). The bacteria eat the organic nutes and excrete food that the plant can feed off of. So the organic nutes don't need to be flushed because they never enter the plant. And besides, meals like kelp, bone and blood along with worm castings and dolomite can't be flushed from your soil mix anyway. If you use guano and seaweed, try using plain water or worm casting tea for your last watering or two so the plant can use up what's left in the soil. But drowning your soil with water isn't necessary.
 
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PerfectGrower

Well-Known Member
Doogan said:
Thank you. I actually did a pH check this week. Using AN Con along with some sugars and enzymes, I was surprised to find that the solution was respectably 5.9. I know that over time the medium will change in balance, I have seen some growers test the run-off to gauge the soil's pH. But is there an easier or different way that is reliable?
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Blue Lab makes a few soil pH meters. So does Hanna. They are around $80-200 on amazon.


Read reviews and decide ;)
 
RM3

RM3

Well-Known Member
VTMi'kmaq said:
Chlorine tap water

Just a word of caution for you organic heads out there...
If you are tapped onto a municipal water supply that uses chlorine to kill bacteria in the water, it'll do the same thing to the bacteria (microherd) in your organic food source.
Always bubble your municipal water in an open container (5 gallon bucket) for 24 hours before adding ANYTHING organic to it.
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Sorry, I can't resist,,,,

1) Clorine is one of the 16 elements that plants use/require

2) If Cloromines are used ( and they are now in most cities) They do not evaporate so air stone bubbling, leaving sit out all useless, They are removed either with charcoal filters or ascorbic acid.

3) perhaps read this ?
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/information-on-chloride-and-plant-growth.htm
 
VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
thats not my tutiledge rm3 thats a post i took from a previous post in a thread started many moons ago to show how things have changed,.,..........
 
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VTMi'kmaq

VTMi'kmaq

Well-Known Member
I know you r not man. Its important for me to clarify my intentions at riu im starting to realize.....lol. ya know burlington still uses chlorine ....very few dont use chloromines up here but last i checked isnt sodium thiosulfate a surefire removal method? I know aqaurium pros have it all figured out.
 
shpongler

shpongler

Well-Known Member

I use this diagram ... it looks a little diffrent from yours. Might be because this is for soil and yours for hydro?
 
Mr420man

Mr420man

Well-Known Member
sbga420 said:
My tap water has a PH ~7.2... I'm using those shitty aquarium testers with the glass tubes and the dropper solutions. My fish tank however has a low PH around 6.0 or lower.. as long as I test the ammonia in my tank.. couldn't I mix my tank water with tap water to create a better ph?
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Dude I do the same exact thing. My tap is about 7.5. I add a teaspoon of distilled vinegar in my 2 gallon watering can and it lowers it to about 6.8-7.0
 
Tim Fox

Tim Fox

Well-Known Member
I do not pH in my soil grows, that's why Ilove growing in ffof, I add domolite lime to my soil also , then it's tap water only the whole ride, I live on well water in Oregon
 
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