Node are so close is that normal?

[jpizzle4shizzle]

Hps all day everyday, when these companies say 600 watt it means equivalent with most LEDs. I love LEDs but if you want weight hps is the way to go

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[RolllingStone]

Hps all day everyday, when these companies say 600 watt it means equivalent with most LEDs. I love LEDs but if you want weight hps is the way to go

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app

How far it needs to be from the canopy during Veg an then during flower

 

[jpizzle4shizzle]

LEDs are tricky, cobs can be closer than those purple ones. I always stayed about 16 inches above the canopy with the purple ones.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Rollitup mobile app

 

[RolllingStone]

Imma switch to hps would 1 light cover my whole tent or i would have to buy 2? 60×60×80 tent

 

[Olive Drab Green]

Molasses is fine. I dunno, I have no experience with either. Check the reviews. However, MarsHydro is pretty cheap and effective. Some people will fuck with you because they are made in China and past models had a moderate fail rate, but I think they stabilized it. They have pretty good reviews.

 

[Olive Drab Green]

Imma switch to hps would 1 light cover my whole tent or i would have to buy 2? 60×60×80 tent

Don't go HPS in a tent like that. I really think that will set you up for heat issues and it'll fuck up your electric bill. Plus, you have to figure out your wiring situation with it, i.e. dedicated circuit, ballast, etc. Check out the MarsHydro 600w. $129. 300s are $69-99

 

[RolllingStone]

Don't go HPS in a tent like that. I really think that will set you up for heat issues and it'll fuck up your electric bill. Plus, you have to figure out your wiring situation with it, i.e. dedicated circuit, ballast, etc. Check out the MarsHydro 600w. $129. 300s are $69-99

I got the marshydro 2 300's for 140$ from what doc said i need more light cause my plant is small for a 4 - 5 week veg plant

 

[Dr. Who]

I said that the cupping COULD be mild mag def, but I didn't say it was. And I looked it up last night. Said 800mg if potassium. I also missed the part about hydro? I assumed he was in coco and just using liquid nutes. And you do use LESS N (not entirely no N) for flower.

Coco IS considered a hydro run!

You should not decrease N till NO sooner then week 3 and that's a very minor drop. There are several nutrient makers that INCREASE the base amount of N by over half a percent and then "boost" the P&K at week 4!

 

[Dr. Who]

I respect you, Doc, but the only thing you seem to have been wrong about is the molasses. Everywhere I'm looking, the consensus is 1-0-5, and 5's decent. Other than that, though, you called it.

OP: He's definitely right about not using molasses if you're hydro. Clogging tubes, stringy mold errwurr, etc. Cupping is a symptom of heat stress or mag def, but not necessarily in your case; I only brought that up for you to monitor.

Im growing in canna coco medium not 100% hydro. It was either molasses or GH flora nectar or boost but boost price is out of my range

Outside of REAL soil you should NEVER use molasses..... NOT in Coco or any soilless method period!

Molasses feeds the living things in the soil! NOT THE PLANT! There are FAR more effective ways to get K then to use molasses and risk possible problems with it! I would simply never choose to use molasses in ANY synthetic soil grow!
Molasses is best for brewing Teas and the rest is simply hippie myth - just like "flushing"....Any benefit of molasses use is so small it's not worth using it for the price it costs!
Hell dudes, you can use Silica and get 2 benefits in one! K and Si!

Use a Kelp extract and be happier. Just like your plants will be!

 

[Dr. Who]

What would produce more yield a 600w glaxayhydro LED or 600W Apollo hps?

The Apollo HPS! Hell I would go 1k in that 5x5 - BlockBuster 6 air cooled hood. All you would need is to cool the room the tent's in and blow the hood exhaust out the room.....

Prebuilt LEDs are fine for vegging.....Then they fall off hard for Bloom! Unless you build your own Cobb LED system or go with a set 3 fixtures of 6 or 8 bulb T-5's Like some do...

Take the TIME to read this thread! You'll learn a lot! Cobb's, CDM, Dual Arc bulb's, GREAT T-5 set up's - just read this thread...

https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/

 

[Olive Drab Green]

Coco IS considered a hydro run!

You should not decrease N till NO sooner then week 3 and that's a very minor drop. There are several nutrient makers that INCREASE the base amount of N by over half a percent and then "boost" the P&K at week 4!

DTW hydro is slightly different than pure hydro, I thought? I was told my coco/peat/yucca isn't considered DTW byt more of an organic mix setup.

 

[Canon]

Canna A+B is organic, innit? You can't flush organics. Don't sweat it, just carry on.

Not true.

 

[Olive Drab Green]

I got the marshydro 2 300's for 140$ from what doc said i need more light cause my plant is small for a 4 - 5 week veg plant

It might be the distance or spectrum of your lights. They look only a little small to me.

 

[Olive Drab Green]

Not true.

This is just what I've been told.

 

[Olive Drab Green]

Outside of REAL soil you should NEVER use molasses..... NOT in Coco or any soilless method period!

Molasses feeds the living things in the soil! NOT THE PLANT! There are FAR more effective ways to get K then to use molasses and risk possible problems with it! I would simply never choose to use molasses in ANY synthetic soil grow!
Molasses is best for brewing Teas and the rest is simply hippie myth - just like "flushing"....Any benefit of molasses use is so small it's not worth using it for the price it costs!
Hell dudes, you can use Silica and get 2 benefits in one! K and Si!

Use a Kelp extract and be happier. Just like your plants will be!

I use molasses for the carbs and potassium so that my myco and Rhizobacillus can eat it and shit out what my plant needs. My set-up is made for this, in particular (the nutes are all solid.) I personally will continue to use molasses as it has been effective. I dilute with water. I will at least look into Kelp.

 

[Olive Drab Green]

You are also completely wrong about bloom, though. I yielded just under a QP with my 500w and 240w. Will it yoekd as much as HPS? No. But you won't be paying for cooling nor full price on your wattage with LEDs. Start with your LEDs.

 

[Dr. Who]

DTW hydro is slightly different than pure hydro, I thought? I was told my coco/peat/yucca isn't considered DTW byt more of an organic mix setup.

I go by the simple personal rule that if you have to pH at hydro levels, your running hydro.....

I use molasses for the carbs and potassium so that my myco and Rhizobacillus can eat it and shit out what my plant needs. My set-up is made for this, in particular (the nutes are all solid.) I personally will continue to use molasses as it has been effective. I dilute with water. I will at least look into Kelp.

Your not running a "soil" able to maintain living bacterial/fungal growth with out feeding them.....what your doing is sort of working for you.....It can be done better other ways. Building an actual organic soil being the most effective way. (and you won't need ANY molasses to "feed" it!)

So what DO you use for nutrient and how do you use it? I'm interested to try and wrap my head around Coco/peat/yucca and using organic solids as you claim.....I think you maybe shooting yourself in the foot in some ways......Hmmm, unless you use a simple bio tea very regularly........maybe.

Anyway, How about you line that out for me, ok?

Media mix
Nutrients used
Any supplements and what you pH too and how....

 

[Dr. Who]

You are also completely wrong about bloom, though. I yielded just under a QP with my 500w and 240w. Will it yoekd as much as HPS? No. But you won't be paying for cooling nor full price on your wattage with LEDs. Start with your LEDs.

Your opinion! We all have those and you can keep yours.....
Even the hard core LED guys don't like them for Bloom unless they're running COBB's..

You should read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/

 

[Olive Drab Green]

I go by the simple personal rule that if you have to pH at hydro levels, your running hydro.....



Your not running a "soil" able to maintain living bacterial/fungal growth with out feeding them.....what your doing is sort of working for you.....It can be done better other ways. Building an actual organic soil being the most effective way. (and you won't need ANY molasses to "feed" it!)

So what DO you use for nutrient and how do you use it? I'm interested to try and wrap my head around Coco/peat/yucca and using organic solids as you claim.....I think you maybe shooting yourself in the foot in some ways......Hmmm, unless you use a simple bio tea very regularly........maybe.

Anyway, How about you line that out for me, ok?

Media mix
Nutrients used
Any supplements and what you pH too and how....

This is the system that NC built up, not me. Their food that goes with their potting mix is made with microbes mixed in to the meat, bone, blood, feather, wheat, manure, etc. that make up the pellets. Like, this is their design, not mine, and it retains like soil does.

Nature's Care Bone meal and Blood meal, NC potting mix, NC Veg/Fruit/Flower food, FF Bat Guano with myco and humic acid, unsulphured blackstrap molasses, Espoma dolo, coconut water on occasion, and that's pretty much it. All of my NC stuff is OMRI.

 

[Olive Drab Green]

Your opinion! We all have those and you can keep yours.....
Even the hard core LED guys don't like them for Bloom unless they're running COBB's..

You should read this too!

https://www.rollitup.org/t/light.853779/

It is, in fact, my opinion. I'm not stating it as fact, but the facts for me worked out pretty well. One plant, 3.8 ounces dry.