Al B. FAQt

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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hey ABF bugsrnme and myself have the same strain WW and both of our mums showed sex DURING vegetation.
Sometimes preflowers ARE gender specific, sometimes they're not. You occasionally get a plant that pops up a couple calyxes out of a preflower at a node- if so, lucky you!

Could this be some of our problems cloning? I have read where its hard to clone during the flowering stage so i was wondering. HMMMMM
I don't think the two are related. Problems cloning have usually got to do with pathogens in the media, overwet media, devoid of oxygen, which encourages pathogens, etc. I've never found one strain to be more or less easy to clone. They're all about the same. Get the conds right, you'll get roots.

Oh and i just sent your royality check for August.
Would you prefer your next roll of licences to be scented or unscented? With or without pink bunnies and floral embossing? :lol:
 

Rocky Top High

Well-Known Member
I am late (as usual) but don't mind me. I am going to pull up a seat and just listen. I have read this thread from post one so I am now "caught up". Thanks AL, you are a ganja guru and I appreciate your giving back to the community. :peace:
 
tahnks al b and its an aero system the water gets misted on the coco liners which then drips thru the liner and rocks,and rockwool i will dispose of the coco liners and just fill the cups up with the hydoton and rockwool i just dont want to keep the rockwools soaked. i dont want root rot
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
huh? Then this is impossible!

These refs came out of a flat package. It is the spring tension of the alu sheet working against the stainless wires which connect the far ends together which hold this reflector in the double parabola shape.

thanks for the linkage. :)
No. But a parabola is a ever expanding curve. Typically with a focal point (the bulb would be the focal) By keeping the length of the curve the same (length of the sheet) the acuracy of the reflector is compromised over it range since the focal (bulb) is in the same spot.

Parabola - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Picture L a bit down shows it best.

Granted I'm splitting hairs. (I get that way at times)
 

q_tip201

Active Member
While I prefer no more than 2 in a row, you can daisy-chain up to 3 cooltubes in a row, pushing them with a single 150mm axial blower. Each cooltube will raise the temp of the air going through the duct line by about 7C. If the cooltube intake air is 20C, the air temp in the duct after the first cooltubed lamp in the chain is 27C, 34C after the second, 41C (!) after the 3rd. If you put 4 in a row, the temp at the end of the duct line is 48C (!!). The glass on the (3rd &) 4th tube will get too hot and that heat is convected into the grow room air, negating the purpose of having them.

You want to run 4 lamps in cooltubes (which are 150mm dia), so you should use two, separate duct runs, each with a 150mm blower pushing cool air into the duct lines, with 2 cooltubes in each. This will keep the heat mostly in the air in the cooltubes' ducts instead of warming up the cooltube (and aluminium duct if used) exterior surfaces. Insulated ducting helps keep heat inside the ducts, but isn't essential.

WBW, ALL CAPS in one run-on sentence really doesn't make you any more readable! When you write in ALL CAPS- you are YELLING! PLEASE DON'T YELL AT ME!

While I don't expect you to be a professional writer, all the same, I don't want to have to work to decode your writing AND work to sort out your grow problems. Please use SENTENCES, such as I've done for you here in my quotation of your last post. The quality of my reply is dependent upon how well I understand your query. Clarity is everything. Make yourself readable- or make yourself scarce!
My apologies. Not intending any yelling or disrespect.

Was in a hurry, typed the message as i was running out the door.

Recently ran through your "Get A Harvest Every 2 Weeks" thread and was already in the process of designing an upgrade. I decided to do 4 3'x3' tables with 600w hps over each. space restrictions will require all tables to sit against the wall next to each other, and as i was thinking common sense told me at the end of a run with 4 lights the heat would have to be building up pretty bad figured i'd ask to make sure because i would like the best for my babies.

Thanks for your response. No disrespect intended. Nor did I intend to confuse you with my quick typing. You are a rare asset to this site, and a gigantic help to all of us in the process of replicating your successes. I only hope one day my yields might be able to match yours and as I gain my own experience with this style of growing i only hope to be able to master it and produce the best yields. best of luck to you mate imm off to start this thread from begining and take notes thnx
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
zpack? wozzat?

Can I have some speed instead? I have a couple days work to do in 8 hours and only have enough energy to go back to bed at this moment. :lol:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I really have to stay offline for a day or two. Spending too much time on the computer, not enough on the harvesting task.

I'll try to keep after queries as they appear but please pardon me if I don't get to them for a day or so.
 

brontobrandon1

Well-Known Member
al b i have a quick question, how well do u think 1 600 watt with a light mover moving over 2 3x3 tables would do??

also u think u can get a good new close up pic of some of your babies your harvesting?? that would be great:mrgreen:


peacebongsmilie
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
I've commented a couple of times on light movers. This is from page 22...

Light movers are not a good thing, anyway. It's better to have a stationary lamp that suits the size of the space you're trying to light rather than trying to spread light out over an area that is really too large for that particular lamp.

With movers, you have a new figure to contemplate; lux-hours (lumens per sq metre per hour). When a mover has the lamp over one end of the grow, it's not over the other. You have to derate the amount of light the plants are getting owing to the mover having the light elsewhere for a certain amount of time.

Linear light movers also do not distribute light evenly. Plants in the middle of the traverse get more light than plants on the ends. Rotary light movers don't have this problem, but they do need 'slipper ring' connections to conduct electricity to the lamp from the ballast, which can be troublesome.

Also, light movers are mechanically complex. I'm pretty handy with electronics and welding/metalwork and even I would not attempt to DIY one.
I'll do some pics if I can. :)
 

torrezzz

Active Member
Hi Al. I asked you in one of the first few pages about feeding plants in a 4x4 tray in pots full of hydroton. I was flooding 3 times a day now I flood 5 times and I have seen a marked improvement in my plants. Each flood is about 10 minutes long from first water hitting the tray to last water draining back out. My lights go on at 8 am and off at 8pm. I flood at 8, 12, 2, 4, and 8. My question is should I flood at night? Or before the light comes on in the morning? My timer allows for 8 on/offs but as I said, I am only using 5 of them for now.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Hi Al. I asked you in one of the first few pages about feeding plants in a 4x4 tray in pots full of hydroton. I was flooding 3 times a day now I flood 5 times and I have seen a marked improvement in my plants.
Great, good to hear it. :)

Each flood is about 10 minutes long from first water hitting the tray to last water draining back out. My lights go on at 8 am and off at 8pm. I flood at 8, 12, 2, 4, and 8.
mmm, ok, your last flood is right at lights-off, I prefer to see last watering no less than an hour before lights-off.

My question is should I flood at night?
no, only in lights-on.
Or before the light comes on in the morning? My timer allows for 8 on/offs but as I said, I am only using 5 of them for now.
Try flooding at 8a, 10a, 12n, 2p, 4p & 6p. BTW, most folks run their flowering lights at night, when ambient air available to draw into the op is cooler.

Damn so much reading got to take it day by day. You got alot of knowledge in your noggin Shawty.
thanks. Gotta keep up, this thread moves fast! ;)
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
hey al. any tips on getting rid of spidermites?
Burning the grow room to the ground will knock them every time. ;)

Here's what I've said before about mites:

If you have mites, you have to clean the entire op, vac everything, thoroughly spray all plants esp under leaves and all surfaces in the grow. Even the general area and path leading to the grow must be cleaned and treated. Plants near the entry to the house should be checked and treated or removed if infested. Azaleas are mite hotels.

Mites are bastards and very persistent. All treatment has to be done at once to have any hope of getting rid of the bastards. Half-measures will guarantee they will be back and likely resistant to the miticide. Short acting miticides are the tool for the job, like Avid or any other miticide containing abamectin, aka avamectin.

Avid has a 14 day withholding period post-treatment. After that, it is OK to consume or smoke the treated plant material.
 
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