Can this be a nitrogen deficiency?
- Thread starter Blitz35
- Start date
I'll take your word on it then. You seem to have a lot of experience with auto's..many grows LOL, and you were spot on about not lst-ing auto's lol..so your advice on this topic isn't worth the paper its written on! Thanks, but again..you have no experience with auto's, so same boat as me. Good luck and goodbye!
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
As one mentioned earlier - AUTOS ARE FINICKY - Some strains CAN tolerate LST and some cannot.
Most AUTOS form into the typical APICAL shape ( xmas tree ) BUT ........
Some hybrids CAN be manipulated ... Heavy sativa dominate strains can be LST ( meaning LIGHTLY SHAPED - or " opened up for light ".
AUTOS HATE STRESS ..... TRANSPLANTING , TOPPING AND SUPERCROPPING CAN DROP YOUR YIELD GREATLY .
AUTOS ARE MOSTLY " PLUG AND PLAY " ... Just plant and harvest !
Sativas can be trellised as an alternative to LST.
Indica autos are usually more squat and bushy and can be " opened " up a little.
Autos " do not have the time to recover from injury or stress " ..,
They go thru a short veg from seed - usualky ( 4-5 weeks ) and then it will MOVE INTO PREFLOWER whether you want it or not. Its hardwired to flower ON ITS OWN.
Thats why it is best to grow on NO LESS than 18/6 or better. If you grow on 12/12 you making the descision before it can VEG as best it can on its short life.
Right there .... you stepped on your dick and cut your yield ...
Why over think these ?
HERE IS HOW I DO THESE NOW ...
I just pop seed into a premium mix .....
I water ONLY ........... For up to week 6 or 7
( this is where my soil shows a little depletion )
THEN i begin a Bloom feed during these Critical weeks for Bud Building !
I feed for 2-3 weeks ( depending on strain ) then back to water.
No burns , no strange stem colors .... No drama.
The following is an AUTO JACK HERER .... On the WATER ONLY regiment.
These are early pics and she is now 4-foot and beginning preflower
( i will update with pic )
I still am just giving water. It is going into week 5 .
All green , no problems.
She is more sativa dom with wide branching and more narrow leaves then what the early pics showed.
Most AUTOS form into the typical APICAL shape ( xmas tree ) BUT ........
Some hybrids CAN be manipulated ... Heavy sativa dominate strains can be LST ( meaning LIGHTLY SHAPED - or " opened up for light ".
AUTOS HATE STRESS ..... TRANSPLANTING , TOPPING AND SUPERCROPPING CAN DROP YOUR YIELD GREATLY .
AUTOS ARE MOSTLY " PLUG AND PLAY " ... Just plant and harvest !
Sativas can be trellised as an alternative to LST.
Indica autos are usually more squat and bushy and can be " opened " up a little.
Autos " do not have the time to recover from injury or stress " ..,
They go thru a short veg from seed - usualky ( 4-5 weeks ) and then it will MOVE INTO PREFLOWER whether you want it or not. Its hardwired to flower ON ITS OWN.
Thats why it is best to grow on NO LESS than 18/6 or better. If you grow on 12/12 you making the descision before it can VEG as best it can on its short life.
Right there .... you stepped on your dick and cut your yield ...
Why over think these ?
HERE IS HOW I DO THESE NOW ...
I just pop seed into a premium mix .....
I water ONLY ........... For up to week 6 or 7
( this is where my soil shows a little depletion )
THEN i begin a Bloom feed during these Critical weeks for Bud Building !
I feed for 2-3 weeks ( depending on strain ) then back to water.
No burns , no strange stem colors .... No drama.
The following is an AUTO JACK HERER .... On the WATER ONLY regiment.
These are early pics and she is now 4-foot and beginning preflower
( i will update with pic )
I still am just giving water. It is going into week 5 .
All green , no problems.
She is more sativa dom with wide branching and more narrow leaves then what the early pics showed.
Thanks for the replies..unfortunately the main question, like always, wasn't answered...can a plant display nitrogen toxicity from a previous feed, yet still need nitrogen now? The rest of the things, including all that's mentioned in the prior post, I have read over and over a million times. All I wanted to know is can a plant show the claw and still be needing nitrogen. I found the answer elsewhere, thanks all, no need to get another thread completely off topic
Resinhound
Well-Known Member
Yes once leaves claw from N tox they won't recover and will stay clawed. Even if the plant later moves into a N deficient condition . I guess I wasn't aware that was the original question.
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
LOL! WHY can't it be?
From pic 1 to pic 4 you are showing a slight Ir and maybe some S def!
While I would have added some more feeding at pic 1.....At pic 4 I would look to add a kelp extract and keep using it for everything it brings to the table! Not just micro's!!!
So, how about you tell us what soil?
Did you do anything to the soil?
What are you feeding?
How often and how much?
Any supplements? LIST them please.
What water?
pHing the feed and or water? To what?
I might supply these answers before my Dalek "friend" - "exterminates" you!
Dr. Who
Well-Known Member
WELL SAID!!!
YES!Thanks for the replies..unfortunately the main question, like always, wasn't answered...can a plant display nitrogen toxicity from a previous feed, yet still need nitrogen now? The rest of the things, including all that's mentioned in the prior post, I have read over and over a million times. All I wanted to know is can a plant show the claw and still be needing nitrogen. I found the answer elsewhere, thanks all, no need to get another thread completely off topic
LOL..like most threads..no one reads! All the info is on page 1 post #1! lol..question was answered days ago..thanks again.LOL! WHY can't it be?
From pic 1 to pic 4 you are showing a slight Ir and maybe some S def!
While I would have added some more feeding at pic 1.....At pic 4 I would look to add a kelp extract and keep using it for everything it brings to the table! Not just micro's!!!
So, how about you tell us what soil?
Did you do anything to the soil?
What are you feeding?
How often and how much?
Any supplements? LIST them please.
What water?
pHing the feed and or water? To what?
I might supply these answers before my Dalek "friend" - "exterminates" you!
and I said no to iron deficiency as it starts at the TOP of the plant first..my issue was with the lower leaves..top is green as can be! Sulphur deficiency is the most obvious deficiency to spot! That too is at the top and very evident! My question had nothing to do with that..was simply about nitrogen..no need to start guessing and throwing everything at the wall lol.
"Iron deficiencies are similar to magnesium deficiencies except that iron affects all new growth except the lower leaves. Magnesium attacks the lower and middle leaves at the start. Iron does not move fast around the marijuana plant, giving it a low mobility"
Just to answer your question as you seemed to laugh at why in the world it couldn't be iron deficiency You ask one question and all the 'experts' come out with misleading info Thanks guys...only 1 person actually answered the question..and thank you for that!..thread can be closed.
Just to answer your question as you seemed to laugh at why in the world it couldn't be iron deficiency
You ask one question and all the 'experts' come out with misleading info Thanks guys...only 1 person actually answered the question..and thank you for that!..thread can be closed.I know enough to know when im being misinformed and people guessing. My question wasn't what was wrong..it was can a plant display nitrogen toxicity and be needing it at the same time? Then everyone is throwing other things in about lst'ing and supercropping and such, completely irrelevant to the question. To answer yours..i mean you're not even seeing the pic..pic 4, the top is not even visible on the plant...its lst'd to the side and out of the pic..you cant see the tie pulling the branch away??? What you're seeing is the bottom of the plant through the middle from above. and that's twice you mention s and 'lr'? I never heard of lr!
Look at day 26WW..that's the top..you see anything wrong with the top? Sulphur deficiency? Btw I sprayed twice with Epsom salt solution in 2 weeks and added some to the watering once. Its also in the fert I gave it twice. Not to mention there is gypsum in the soil mix, which is another source of sulphur! Being that sulphur is also absorbed between ph 5 up to 10, it cant be locked out. That's why I say no to sulphur..usually leaves aren't completely green at the top with a sulphur problem. The problem was yes, the plant displayed the claw from 3 weeks ago and I was scared to add more thinking it doesn't ned it as the claw is still thre. Turns out it did need it and the claw remains even after it needs nitrogen the next time. That's all I wanted to know from this thread and two people answered it. Thanks!
you even put in capital letters YOU GOT IT lol..hilarious..you cant tell the top of the plant from the bottom..i have 4 sources of sulphur..your mysterious lr deficiency, and you know for sure what's lacking lol. Im done with this thread..question was answered...good luyck all..make sure to read a lot so as not to get led down wrong road by some people who appear to know less than they write
These are 2 pics of each from now. The first pic of WW is of the main cola. Second is the other side of the top. Same with AK..first pic is main cola, the last one is the other side. I don't see any bleaching or spotting to show an S or Fe deficiency..not even first stage. The only paling/yellowing was on the lower fan leaf, the biggest one.
