Interesting video on different store bought soils

backtracker

Well-Known Member
I ran across this video on YouTube it shows the results of different bag soils he did two fox farm soils and it isn't pretty if you use fox farm or MG it is well worth a look.
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
Blah

I've been using ffof for 4+ years. I go thru a bag every week and a half. I've never had any issues, minus some fruit flies, which are easily taken care of.
 

bryan oconner

Well-Known Member
this test was done with out feeding the plants any nutrients . its a great test . and it also show you CANT use mg for veggies or 420. you cant flush out the nutrients . not safe to eat or smoke .
 

backtracker

Well-Known Member
Blah

I've been using ffof for 4+ years. I go thru a bag every week and a half. I've never had any issues, minus some fruit flies, which are easily taken care of.
wait until you get thrips and white flies big fun especially outdoors. I tried lucky dog this year and the shit is lousy with em. I love it when people can't believe their own eyes.
 
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backtracker

Well-Known Member
4+ yrs and only fruit flies. It's why I hit them at every up pot with promis. Knocks them dead.
They are getting huge and it's hard to source quality products consistently and they have more than one plant now but this isn't the first I have heard about bugs in their stuff.
 

DemonTrich

Well-Known Member
They put hyposasis miles in their soil to eat the fruit fly larvae. Something I read 2 yrs ago. Not sure how true it is, but I freaked out when I seen one scurrying across the bottom of my pot at harvest. Thought I had SM, and bought something to kill everything, good or bad. Was a HM after doing some research. I was about to go nuclear on my entire garden.
 

9leaves

Well-Known Member
The tomatoe plants in miracle grow or other wise might be getting far to much direct sunlight. A big one. Not enough heat. Very important about tomatoes. They need the heat of the day with some shade daily. In my growing of cherry tomatoes in MC I got plants 7 foot in hieght. I had so much tomatoes. That is cherry tomatoes I was giving them away to anyone that wanted some. I grew for 2 seasons. Same results. In fact I got tired of eating tomatoes. I had to take a year or so off. I also wonder how many pots have roots in the ground below the pot. All sitting directly on the ground opens up the chance for roots in the earth below. That also has a few directions it can follow. The ground could be good in some areas and bad in others. The soil in the pot might have made such good root growth. That the roots were fast to exit the pot. Then the soil below the pot was the problem.

I do give you credit for taking the time to do this. Experiments are always filled with issues. Each kid of soil with nutes in them has a time release. I try for the 3 month kind. Then I can do a mild flush and start adding what I need. Some hold nutes as long as 9 months. In general practice I believe that the nutes have been used up before then.

Testing outdoors adds elements you can't control. Experiments need an invironment that you can control almost totally. Or at least have a control set inside with you controling the environment.

Loooking forward to seeing more.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
The tomatoe plants in miracle grow or other wise might be getting far to much direct sunlight. A big one. Not enough heat. Very important about tomatoes. They need the heat of the day with some shade daily. In my growing of cherry tomatoes in MC I got plants 7 foot in hieght. I had so much tomatoes. That is cherry tomatoes I was giving them away to anyone that wanted some. I grew for 2 seasons. Same results. In fact I got tired of eating tomatoes. I had to take a year or so off. I also wonder how many pots have roots in the ground below the pot. All sitting directly on the ground opens up the chance for roots in the earth below. That also has a few directions it can follow. The ground could be good in some areas and bad in others. The soil in the pot might have made such good root growth. That the roots were fast to exit the pot. Then the soil below the pot was the problem.

I do give you credit for taking the time to do this. Experiments are always filled with issues. Each kid of soil with nutes in them has a time release. I try for the 3 month kind. Then I can do a mild flush and start adding what I need. Some hold nutes as long as 9 months. In general practice I believe that the nutes have been used up before then.

Testing outdoors adds elements you can't control. Experiments need an invironment that you can control almost totally. Or at least have a control set inside with you controling the environment.

Loooking forward to seeing more.
Um, ah....Where did you get the idea you can "flush" any "timed-release" soil?

I'm afraid your wrong! You can not and the reason is that the little "timed release" balls are activated or brake open by how much/often you water! They are little water (the chems inside do not effect the material) degrading balls of differing thickness.
As they degrade they open releasing more ferts.

So then, If you "flush". Your simply running more water through. That makes the soil stay moister, longer, and that opens MORE balls! Kinda defeats the purpose don't you think!

Never flush a timed release soil!

Some one else accused FFOF of giving them Thrips and White flies......

I don't believe they came in the soil! Neither of those are soil born pests! They do not lay their eggs in the soil!
Your problem came from being outside! Accusing the soil was simply the easy thing to do!

FFOF will tend to have problems with Fungus Gnats and fruit flies.
Fungus gnats are NOT a big problem for MM,, and fruit flies are nothing but annoying!
Fungus gnats are simple to get rid of!

The video is misleading on several points!

He's running plants that have a wide range of nutrient requirements!
The lettuce needs little amounts of P&K and the FF soils show their higher P&K build. You can see what I mean by how well the nice mild 100% compost did with the lettuce! Light nutrients and good drainage!
For the MG - he over watered everything.
The ROOTS showed some higher P&K levels also, but, not as high as the FFOF or FFHF (even less N then OF) You all need to keep in mind that this is done in an "attempt" to give MM a "boost" during late flower. I find the problem with that being that FF and others to a point will run the N low/out and then all you basically have left is P-K that's yellowing out your plants by overall too much P&K. The rest of the story is that with FF...If you simply feed more N....You'll cover the high PK till very late in the run. This can work out ok but, most nutrient lines cut the N too much and too early in bloom.....

Some of what he called lack of N was a bit of that with way too much P available!

The well preforming soils had not been "enhanced" for MM "growing"!
His soil did "best" because it was well "BALANCED" to cover all the needs for longer times!
THIS is true for MM too! The point most Organic SS builders MAKE , , , is that you get the best results with a clean balanced soil..Once your too high/low in N or P or K ----- Your going to have problems!

Just like using any nutrient and hand feeding!

Keep in mind that it's still up to you to know how to and to feed properly! With any soil!
 

9leaves

Well-Known Member
Thank you.

I try not to use soil with nutes in it. Sometimes that is what they have and I must buy it. Ok I won't flush my current soil. Next plant I will get soil that is fert free. I have so many ferts to add anyhow.

I was going to flush this one. Than you so much for stopping me. I now see how tragic it could be for my plants. Need to rely on the nutes and ferts I currently have. This pot i will leave alone besides adding some sugar later in the life span of the plant.

Thabk you.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Thank you.

I try not to use soil with nutes in it. Sometimes that is what they have and I must buy it. Ok I won't flush my current soil. Next plant I will get soil that is fert free. I have so many ferts to add anyhow.

I was going to flush this one. Than you so much for stopping me. I now see how tragic it could be for my plants. Need to rely on the nutes and ferts I currently have. This pot i will leave alone besides adding some sugar later in the life span of the plant.

Thabk you.
In reality, the plant makes it's own "sugars" for the plants use. the "idea" of adding "sugars" to soils is to feed the living bio's in the soil. Adding them to timed release soils is rather fruitless as the ferts in them basically repress the bio's life and effectiveness..Molasses is an old school move during late bloom and that's rather ineffective too. The things in molasses that make any difference in late bloom are better available by other means. Search "Home made sweet raw" here at this site and use my site name as a filter. You'll find a good formula for that and save over 64 bucks a gallon on it by making it yourself. There is an explanation on how to use it with most of my posts on that.....It'll increase trich and terp production - there for increasing THC and terp concentrations.

Good luck!
 
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