My question is it ok to to put them under flouresccent lighting @ 12/12 to get them to show sex?
Yep, that will do fine. Have your flowering area with HPS lighting set up, tested (without plants in it, for a week or so, keeping an eye on your peak-mem thermo so you know the temps will be right) and ready to fly in case the cuttings are female. They can be your first crop.
Al B. I am going to go hydro on my next grow which will be in about 9 weeks give or take.
what i am thinking as my plan is to get a 30 site EZ clone and a 3' X 3' econo 1 ebb and flow setup.
Sounds good
I don't think the insert is terribly necessary in a flood op, but it'll keep your pots from tipping over if you use a lightweight medium with a tendency to float like Fytocell.
since i will be cloning with only neoprene collars am i right to assume that i can then use only hydroton or similar in my 5.5 diameter net pots ?
there by eliminating the need for rockwool or equivalent helping avoid overwatering ?
Yep, good plan.
or do you recommend using some rockwool like substance to help retain water ?
and if you recommend rockwool or some equivalent, do you recommend i use it in the cloning process as well as in the ebb and flow tray?
I have always had better results from cloning in RW cubes as opposed to an aerocloner, but if you can make an aerocloner work well, more power to you. Yes, medialess cloning can be preferable if you intend to raise your plants in pellets. You will get the same result from medialess and RW cubes nested in the pellets, as long as the RW cube is nested so it is 1/2" above the flood line. With plants cloned in a medialess method, the roots can be placed right at or below the flood line. Don't put them too terribly deep in the pots; roots seek downward. If you put them in too deep, not much of the media will be filled with roots.
thanks in advance Al. you rock
PS tried to +rep you in advance but apparently i was stoned off my ass and did it before cuz it says i need to spread the love before i +rep you again.
lol i know you dont play the +rep game alot as you say but you deserve it ... only wish i could +rep you for every great bit of advice ive taken from you.
heh, thanks.
Thanx for the measurements. This one is going to by 760mm wide and 610mm across. I bought a piece of aluminum angle with the holes already in it and attached that to the 's' strips a few adjustments will still have to be made, it is taking shape. VV
dynamite, looks great.
If you haven't made plans to do so, the ref will need a couple-three coats of a good quality hi-temp flat white exhaust header paint on the reflector side. Alternatively, you can get out your alloy polishing kit and polish the holy bejesus out of the reflection surface and then protect it with a layer or three of hi-temp clearcoat. The surface will otherwise oxidise. Aluminum oxide isn't the best reflecting stuff.
My yeild question-Does that mean .5g/total watts in flower room or .5g per watt over the harvested tray.
A good first harvest would be .5g/W based on a single 1kW, presuming you are harvesting everything under that 1kW light. Since you'll be doing a SoG op, harvesting more often than the standard 8 weeks for a single light op, you'll base your figures on the last light in your chain.
If you are using that last 1000 to raise 2 trays at a time but only harvesting from 1 tray, divide the lamp power by 2 and calculate on that basis, since that harvested tray was only using half the light from that lamp.
If you harvested the whole room at once, you'd calculate the entire harvest wt against the total flowering area watts.
What are the pitfalls i face that will imact yeild so severely? What can I be doing now to ensure i don't end up with 1/3rd the efficiency per watt that you are seeing? Would you mind if posting your recipes for your flower room resevoirs when you have enough time?
Errors accumulate and are recorded in the total performance of the grow. The trick is to make as few errors as possible. Make sure the nute strength & pH are always right, tanks are dosed with H2O2 per schedule, temps are right, nothing's overwatered, etc etc.
All 4 of my flowering area tanks run Canna Flores, 1400ppm @ 5.8 except for wk 6, where I add about 50ml of Canna's PK 13-14 in addition to the usual 450ml A + 450ml B in 125L tanks. I'm getting kinda annoyed with the PK stuff as it seems that when I use it, I get a passel of yellowing leaves by harvest time, probably K toxicity. the PK bumps up the nute strength to about 1700. I may back down tank 4 to perhaps 1000 -1100ppm tocompensate.
Hydroguard-Yes indeed is right on the hydroguard, not h202. i have spoken to the hydro shop i use about 350km from here and indeed it is what they offer as a sub.
wow, and I thought my 200km round trip to the hydro shop was bad.
Obviously, Hydroguard isn't an acceptable sub for H2O2.
I do have 2 airstones in each res and it is a top drip system using hydroton (expanded clay pellets) for the medium and is on a 2hr on 2hr off timer for the drip.
Sounds good, but you know I have no love lost on drip systems due to the potential for dried nute salts clogging the drippers unless they're cleaned frequently.
Will those methods and the use of airstones assist in oxiginating my roots?
Is that sufficient till i source the h2o2?
Airstones will deal with oxygenation but won't do anything for pathogen control. Let's hope the competing bacteria sauce will keep you out of dutch until you get some H2O2.
As to the magic saucey factor of the fulvic acid-i agree, it would seem the hard science is missing and while i do not like that from a control perspective i am a believer in a little mother nature luv-and figure it can't hurt. I have seen it in the recipes of some large ops and it is not cost prohibitive to use on a regular basis. I will run a batch without to see if there is any discernable difference.
Yeah, I started worrying when I saw some new-agey website spruiking fulvic acid for human health, with a number of scienceless superlatives. Buncha tree-huggin' hippie crap.
May as well hang some crystals & pyramids over your head and hope for the goddesses to bless thee. Every once in a while, I'm tempted to drop in on 'fully organic' grow threads and leave comments like 'Blessed be' cos I'm really a chemical loving dickhead at heart.
Thankfully, I usually stop myself at the last second.
A truer test would be to run parallel, simultaneous control plants against your test plants. Might be difficult as you'd need separate watering systems to do it.
Do you use a proxy server that specializes in privacy and anonimity for your communications on here or similar threads? Or do you just roll straight up. Before i post any pics or such i wwould like to know more about the safety of such open forums.
I haven't used proxies much because they slow me way down. Bear in mind that I'm posting to a board located outside of my country of residence and I never, ever buy or sell any plant matter (not even seeds) via cannabis boards. I'd like to see RIU add https (secure protocol) as an option. That way, there's no snooping between you & the server running the RIU forum. LEO would have to be looking at the plaintext after decryption and would need to be 'inside' the RIU server (or your computer) with spyware. We can only depend on the security practises of the RIU board operators, whether you use a proxy or not. Your security practises are much more important. Don't give away specifics about your location, make sure there's nothing identifiable in the background of images you post. I'm actually more concerned about nosy neighbours who notice fan noise & scents. Silence is paramount, both out of your grow and your yap.
In any case, I've been using cannabis boards since about 1995, mostly without proxies, with no hassles. Either I'm a very small fish or no one is checking up on me. If I was selling buds online, I bet I would have attracted some attention by now.
But the flower shelf is only 30" wide x 16" deep x 37" tall. I could fit 8 6" pots in there, but would I have enough height for HPS with 37"?
Your cabinet is about the size of my clonebox. You'll need 1m for plants, 300mm lamp-leaf spacing, then room for the watering system below the flood tray, at least another 300mm. Sorry, it's just got to be bigger. You need something a little closer to 1.8m tall. Think freestanding wardrobe-sized, about 1.8m H x 1m wide x 600mm deep or in that general area. Your old cupboard may make a good clonebox, tho.
Hey Al, I have read around the forums a bit that if you harvest earlier you get more of an "up" high, whereas if you harvest later you get more of a couchlock high.
Is that true?
Δ9-THC can be broken down into non-psychoactive or less psychoactive cannabinoids by exposing buds to temps above 29C. Δ9-THC is converted into cannabidiol (CBD) and cannabidinol (CBN), which either are not psychoactive alone but moderate the psychoactive effects of Δ9-THC or induce lethargy.
When you hear stuff like this, you have to wonder about the conds in the grow. Hot grows are much more common than properly functioning ones. I can see the Δ9-THC being converted as a result of excessively high temps in the grow. If your temps are under control (24-26C) and your drying procedures are cool (literally), your Δ9-THC should remain Δ9-THC until you roll it up.
HYDROGEN PEROXIDE REAGENT ACS 30% 1GALLON
) direct you to soak the meter electrode in water for somewhere between an hour and a day before use. The electrode tip must also ALWAYS be kept damp by keeping a bit of wet sponge in the meter cap. Failure to perform these steps will result in a wandering reading while testing or big errors when calibrating. 