a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
I never said you hated any one. What the fuck?
Ttystikk's vertical goodness
- Thread starter tystikk
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ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Wow man. Drop it already.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I know, they look like tiny sombreros under the 'scope. Makes 'em a little spicy!Do your plants listen to a different station in veg? Mexican radio! Different music changes the stomata shape.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Just moved a batch of ladies in 5 gallon buckets. We modified these with holes drilled all around the sides at the bottom, so roots could find their way out and into the shallow water in the tub they sit in.
Even before day one of bloom, every bucket had roots coming out. I'm all kinds of impressed!
Even before day one of bloom, every bucket had roots coming out. I'm all kinds of impressed!
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Wish granted.
Alaric
Well-Known Member
Hey tty,
I'd like to see under the covers (root zone).
Question: Why not remove the bottoms of the buckets?
Impressive,
A~~~
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I'll see what I can do.
The Tupur buckets are full of the substrate, so cutting the bottoms off won't keep it in place.
Alaric
Well-Known Member
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
i have seen you say more than once you have your dimming wires capped off for more power,yet you think your cooking the plants with too much light.why in the hell dont you add dimmers to your ballasts and turn them down during transition for a week or so before you crank them up a lil at a time ? this of course if you insist on NOT moving the cobs back away from the plants some lol.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
If I'm having problems with plants coming from another space, why not start there?
The current run was in fact hardened off exactly as you just suggested. It's doing much better, but from a systems design standpoint that's treating the symptom rather than curing the disease.
There are lots of references above about how I first replaced my veg lighting with more efficient systems, but I made the mistake of reducing my wattage instead of keeping power consumption constant and increasing light output. The mismatch came when I did the opposite with the LED rack.
Now there's a 6:1 disparity in PAR between the two, and so my plan is to bump up PAR Watts in veg to solve the problem. That's tracking the problem to its source and eliminating it.
Why is everyone dying to have me turn my lights off? I'm nowhere near the upper limit of PPF, so turning the lights down isn't addressing the underlying problem. New growth is healthy and vigorous.
Besides, if these lights are too strong to grow plants under, why are they working so well in my nursery?
Dimming in transition is a technique for making up for the weakness of the previous phase. Instead of reducing DLI in bloom, I'm simply adding more in veg.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
'idk man,i really think sometimes you just over complicate things.so whats my "par disparity" as you put it if im vegging a plant under 216w of t5 and going straight to a gavita @800w ? because i do it all the time and my plants never skip a beat.and for that matter what do you blame when a grower vegges under 1000w mh and flips them under 1000w hps and his plants look like shit?do you ever chalk it up to the grower or do you have to blame the system in that case as well ? i would guess your new spectrum has more to do with it than light intensity does.plants under led require different nutes than plants under hid,i learned that the first run under a mars panel with a strain i have had forever.my point is you been playin in water for years now,constantly changing shit,nutes,lights whatever.only now do i see a decent looking leaf and your in a dif "substrate" which i never caught what you switched to.im not trying to be a dick but you would think after 3 or 4 years in dro you would have that part dialed in like 110% #1 rule or advice given in the noob grower 101 topics is dont change 10 things on every run or you cant get help or get your crop dialed in.i know from watchingyou through the years you love to tinker with shit constanly.all im saying is how can you say with such absolute that its def the change in lighting from veg to bloom? because to me thats the one thing a plant can adapt to like overnight.what they dont do well with is stuff like a jump from say 300ppm to 1000ppm in a day,and although they may eventually adapt to that feed change,your yields would most likely suffer alot.
my next question is why even use led if you are matching watts in flower while cooking shit,and having to bump veg power so much you lose any electrical savings you might gain in cooling costs?
i grew outdoors for many years before we went medical here.i always started my seeds under t12 or t8 floros and when it got warm enough outside i put them out in a field of sun,they did fine.i never bought into hardening off shit.i just wonder what my " par disparity" might have been in those days lol.
these lil fuckers were vegged under t5,never skipped a beat tossed right under hid.theres 2 of my helpers in there if ya look close haha.
first run under the cobs @ just 1050ma and i didnt put the reflectors on till the last week,wish i did it sooner since my lights were so high.but i cant complain,new strain new lights.i might of got more under the 600w that used to be there but i know my next run will be better with a known strain.bitches be hungry as hell under the cobs.
now i know to use more calmag,my feeds are weak @ about 450 to 500ppm.lesson learned i guess.
my next question is why even use led if you are matching watts in flower while cooking shit,and having to bump veg power so much you lose any electrical savings you might gain in cooling costs?
i grew outdoors for many years before we went medical here.i always started my seeds under t12 or t8 floros and when it got warm enough outside i put them out in a field of sun,they did fine.i never bought into hardening off shit.i just wonder what my " par disparity" might have been in those days lol.
these lil fuckers were vegged under t5,never skipped a beat tossed right under hid.theres 2 of my helpers in there if ya look close haha.
first run under the cobs @ just 1050ma and i didnt put the reflectors on till the last week,wish i did it sooner since my lights were so high.but i cant complain,new strain new lights.i might of got more under the 600w that used to be there but i know my next run will be better with a known strain.bitches be hungry as hell under the cobs.
now i know to use more calmag,my feeds are weak @ about 450 to 500ppm.lesson learned i guess.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Consistency in nutrient uptake, leading to more consistent results. Tupur does an excellent job of buffering both EC and pH.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
@sixstring2112 what substrate are you using?
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
its just promix and jacks classics.when i go out of town i use ionic in my res
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I'm guessing promix and Tupur are similar.
From having used both, I know for sure that my dry nutrient salts are the same as Jacks.
I'm expecting more consistent results than RDWC with less work.
Evil-Mobo
Well-Known Member
I think that is exactly what you will find, as that's what I am finding in my switch to Coco and Flora Nova