No one answer me, my plants are still yellow but alive

[panhead]

First off in sea of green hydroponics foliar spraying of anything not abso fucking loutely essential is not in your best interest , at 1,200 ppm I can't imagine what your plants would be lacking that a foliar spray would correct , if it were me I'd back off on the nutes & take them down to around 700 ppm .

On the pH issue you should have a truncheon meter in your rez at all times for a grow that size, as well as a good hand held meter to double chech the truncheon every few days , never allow the probes to dry either .

Chasing the pH trying to keep it at the magic 5.8 is not in the plants best interest either , many times you can avoid nute deficiencies simply by allowing your plants to push the pH around where they need to feed , a lower pH of even 4.0 for a day or so shouldn't hurt healthy plants and will allow the plants to absorb many nutes a lot better , the same goes for allowing the pH to rise above 5.8 up to even 7.0 for a day or two , you'll find out once you stop chasing pH to keep the plants where you want them the plants will move the pH where they need to feed for a day or so & level off in normal range .
If ph keeps rising & you can't find a reason then allow it to rise & level off , when my pH moves around its because the plants need access to nutes absorbed much better at much lower , or higher than the magic 5.8 , allowing your pH some Lee way without forcing it up or down constantly can save you a bunch of issues with deficiencies .

 

[HydroRed]

First off in sea of green hydroponics foliar spraying of anything not abso fucking loutely essential is not in your best interest , at 1,200 ppm I can't imagine what your plants would be lacking that a foliar spray would correct , if it were me I'd back off on the nutes & take them down to around 700 ppm .

On the pH issue you should have a truncheon meter in your rez at all times for a grow that size, as well as a good hand held meter to double chech the truncheon every few days , never allow the probes to dry either .

Chasing the pH trying to keep it at the magic 5.8 is not in the plants best interest either , many times you can avoid nute deficiencies simply by allowing your plants to push the pH around where they need to feed , a lower pH of even 4.0 for a day or so shouldn't hurt healthy plants and will allow the plants to absorb many nutes a lot better , the same goes for allowing the pH to rise above 5.8 up to even 7.0 for a day or two , you'll find out once you stop chasing pH to keep the plants where you want them the plants will move the pH where they need to feed for a day or so & level off in normal range .
If ph keeps rising & you can't find a reason then allow it to rise & level off , when my pH moves around its because the plants need access to nutes absorbed much better at much lower , or higher than the magic 5.8 , allowing your pH some Lee way without forcing it up or down constantly can save you a bunch of issues with deficiencies .

I've argued this exact point on pH swings on here before. If you allow pH swing you hit all the target ranges to effectively pull ALL of the nutrients and micros. Well said.

 

[panhead]

I've argued this exact point on pH swings on here before. If you allow pH swing you hit all the target ranges to effectively pull ALL of the nutrients and micros. Well said.

It takes new growers a while to learn that and some never do , constantly sweating over perfect ph while the plants starve ,fortunately I was mentored in sog flood n drain by Albfuct & was taught those things very early on & resisted the urge to do too much , hopefully people weren't saying you were wrong because your not & I'm betting your yields prove your not wrong as mine do .

 

[Grandpapy]

Have you always added condensate from your ac/dehumid? if so have you added a new or different unit?

 

[Tripp2005]

Mabey root rot my pH kept dropping and I couldn't fig out why til I really pulled out the roots and felt/saw the clear snot that usually occurs first but can be hard to see u can deff feel it though even on hoses and pumps a thin layer almost

 

[Budley Doright]

Mabey root rot my pH kept dropping and I couldn't fig out why til I really pulled out the roots and felt/saw the clear snot that usually occurs first but can be hard to see u can deff feel it though even on hoses and pumps a thin layer almost

Try and get a pic but yup, kinda figured that . running a flooded root zone without a chiller is a fast road to rot, been there, done that .

 

[BobCajun]

The electrodes in pH meters only work for so long, then need to be replaced. There's usually a little piece of wick sticking out too, and you need to pull it out some and cut off the old part every now and then. You're also supposed to store the meter with some storage solution and never let it dry out. That's the problem with pH meters, they need a lot of maintenance unlike TDS meters. BTW, those plants look very scrawny anyway. I think you got a bad strain or something. All that setup will be wasted if the plants are poor producers.

 

[Budley Doright]

The electrodes in pH meters only work for so long, then need to be replaced. There's usually a little piece of wick sticking out too, and you need to pull it out some and cut off the old part every now and then. You're also supposed to store the meter with some storage solution and never let it dry out. That's the problem with pH meters, they need a lot of maintenance unlike TDS meters. BTW, those plants look very scrawny anyway. I think you got a bad strain or something. All that setup will be wasted if the plants are poor producers.

Where's the wick? All mine have a little clear bulb. I actually treat mine like I stole em and the cheaper one I just bought last year seems to be comparable to the many expensive ones I've bought . I still calibrate once a week just to confirm its working. As said earlier I too spent the first while chasing a number, now it let it do its thing and drop naturally till res change.

 

[BobCajun]

Where's the wick? All mine have a little clear bulb. I actually treat mine like I stole em and the cheaper one I just bought last year seems to be comparable to the many expensive ones I've bought . I still calibrate once a week just to confirm its working. As said earlier I too spent the first while chasing a number, now it let it do its thing and drop naturally till res change.

On mine there's a wick right next to the electrode. Maybe yours is different. Anyway, the electrodes only last a few years so you're probably due for buying a new meter, since it's probably not worth the trouble to try to change the electrode, unless the meter is expensive.

 

[Tripp2005]

I just use a tds meter seems to work fine now that I have everything measured out with my water an journaled it shoild nt really need it next run as much anyway I still will prob double check it now and again just in case tho cheap ass TDs meter I think less is more in most cases but that's just me