The Official Canna Coco & Nutrients Thread
- Thread starter jberry
- Start date
REEFER4life20
Member
Hey I just preped my coco for seedlings I am using canna coco with 25% perlite ro water and phd the water to 5.8 I have 2 solo cups and I am having run off of 6.8ph after about a gallon of water through the solo cups still 6.8 run off with 5.8 input b
Is that correct ? (Shouldn't ph of in/out be the same or close?)
Is that correct ? (Shouldn't ph of in/out be the same or close?)
pinner420
Well-Known Member
I only sweat the input.
REEFER4life20
Member
Ok that's what I have read and looked up on other sites Thansk for the conformation seedinglings broke the surface today only using phd water to 5.8 for watering till I have 3 set of leaves then using canna "start" for 5 days with light feeding till plants can handle a&b at a light feeding schedule untill I know what they can handle any tips on using "start" can't really find good instructions and anything else I should be doing? Sorry trying to read through all the pages but many conflicting answers first time grow in coco so all this is new to me
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
I have never used "start" but always used canna coco A+B and rest of the range from seed to harvest. Its funny the official feeding schedule doesn't even mention "start" . Does it not say on the bottle?
Beware of ph 5.8, you can lock out cal above that range and Phosphorus and mag below that range. Its wise to alternate between 5.7 and 6 then you are not locking anything out.
http://www.canna-uk.com/growguide
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dave chull
Well-Known Member
What can I do for taste? I've ran whole line in coir with molasses , flush last two weeks. 200ppm run off my tap is 147ppm?
since1991
Well-Known Member
Pick very tastey and smelly strains to run first off. Harvest when ripeness is peak... And employing a really decent and controllable drying/curing method also. These 2 pillars are 90% of where your taste and smell are.
pinner420
Well-Known Member
water or 3 tbsp/gallon. This is a 1:250 ratio.
Part A
Calcium Nitrate: 263.10 g/l
Magnesium Nitrate: 83.60 g/l
Fe-EDTA 13%: 1.84 g/l
Part B
Magnesium Sulfate: 131.50 g/l
Mono Potassium Phosphate: 77.60 g/l
Potassium Sulfate: 19.10 g/l
70% humic acid: 7.14 g/l
Mn-EDTA 13%: 0.77 g/l
Zn-EDTA 13%: 0.54 g/l
SolUBor: 0.35 g/l
Sodium Molybdate: 0.25 g/l
Cu-EDTA 14%: 0.07 g/l
The final blend will deliver nutrients in the following concentrations:
Coco A/B Combined:
Total N: 113 ppm
N (NO3): 106 ppm
N (NH4): 7 ppm
P: 39 ppm
K: 68 ppm
Ca: 113 ppm
Mg: 45 ppm
S: 49 ppm
B: 0.16 ppm
Cu: 0.022 ppm
Total Fe: .54 ppm
Mn: 0.22 ppm
Mo: 0.05 ppm
Zn: 0.16 ppm
Humic Acids: 11 ppm
since1991
Well-Known Member
The Canna Start is a relatively new product to hit American store shelves. Iam sure it will be incorporated into the feed charts soon. The Start is not necessary. Its just a mild seedling and clone nutrient. Alot like Clonex cloning solution (not the root gel) from HDI/Growth Tecnology. They are ideal for early early starts though. In tomato and veggie hydroponic commercial greenhouses they use a mild base salt fertilizer for early starts that is really a different profile than what they run when the crops grow into maturity. Many greenhouse managers and workers do this and they have been for decades. Its standard practice and where the idea of these starter nutrients came from. This was told to me by Harley Smith awhile back. Hes kind of an industry (ours) insider and kind of smart when it comes to hobby hydroponics.
since1991
Well-Known Member
Yes...for early seedlings and rooted cuts i like Canna (or any other popular base nute) at around 500 ppm (0.8 -1.0 ec) with a seaweed based root promoter (any will do).
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
Bob did you find the answer? If you search this forum, there is a thread called "reverse engineering your nutrients"
the guy who started the thread sends off nutes to a lab and has them broken down and analysed. On his thread there is somewhere a link to his website and on there he has the exact info you are after for canna range, coco and terra and also many many other ranges. So anybody can build there own. He hasn't had boost done yet but A and B are on his site.
Edit, I should of read below your comment bob... doh, pinner420 has already sorted it out. Still anyone whos hasn't seen the reverse engineering thread should check it out.
Is that where you got the info @pinner420 ?
since1991
Well-Known Member
Do you know where the ppm of Fe (chelated Iron) is in this profile? EDIT... Oh shit...i just saw it. Thanks. Seems low. Damn. I always throw in some Fossil Fuel humic acid at the very last when mixing up a tank. Helps with iron. I knew Canna was low in iron but not that low.
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since1991
Well-Known Member
That reverse engineering thread is one of the best on this forum. Ive been leaning towards mixing my own stock fertilizers but it is convenient to pay the extra money and run down to the hydro shop and pick up a ready to go base nutrient. My operation is not that big. If i were running a big spot....would definitely consider buying my own salts. Save a ton of money. Its what separates the more professional growers from the hobbyist leaning ones.
pinner420
Well-Known Member
Indeed. I hope he does cutting edge next.. their doing some great stuff with organic chelation.
since1991
Well-Known Member
Yeah. Humic/Fulvics and Aminos like glycine. There truly is nasty ingredients in artificial chelation agents like EDTA...DTPA...& EDDHA. And believe it or not...cyanide is used in its manufacturing.
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
I couldn't agree more, I'm in the same boat, I don't find the basic canna range so expensive that I would go to all the effort but if I were in a bigger operation I would damn sure be doing so. Still hoping misterBlah comes back with the rhizo formula. He sounds like a guy with a lot going on though. I'm just skimming back through the thread now to find his website.
coreywebster
Well-Known Member
ah found it, it was on page 6.
a website with the measurements to create your own nutrients of various ranges. He's a bloody LEGEND!
https://www.open-salt.com/
a website with the measurements to create your own nutrients of various ranges. He's a bloody LEGEND!
https://www.open-salt.com/
pinner420
Well-Known Member
Per Harley I blend the ominA first so the l-aminos snag the calcium. Then plant amp calcium chloride at 10mls/g then bullet proof si silicic acid. Then the base nutes. In rdwc I work in 5:2 humic kelp at a foliar level as the solution gets chunky; however, my coir autopots get it in solution as there is no return. I've found this adventure of getting the girls calcium is the 1st priority. This paragraph represents 8 months of study lol.