i hear tires fail faster if you drive them hard
Ok
i have a spare at all times
Meanwell's best are probably the best, period. The HLG series is great, I have a couple open frame and laptop-style drivers from them as well to run various things. Linear drivers, I look elsewhere.It's true that not all power supplies or drivers will reliably pump out 100% claimed power. Nor are all stereo amps equal, watt for watt. That's just to say yes there's variability out there in the land of electronics and different products get labeled differently. My impression, based purely on others reports, are that the Meanwell drivers will reliably run at 100%. Maybe they beef it up a little, hardware-wise, and their ratings are conservative, instead of the other way around like when a shady manufacturer will rate something too high through some bullshit testing procedure just so they can make a quick buck. There's an expectation of transparency with the Meanwell product and I think it's rubbing off on other manufacturers who are trying to compete in that space. That's just my impression. Lately some other driver OEMs have been getting screen time on RIU with the DIY kits and PLC has their driver. The Meanwell HLG series has been the gold standard for a while, and the first question is naturally "is this driver as good as the comparable Meanwell driver?". Anyway. I'm just saying. From peoples anecdotes, and the little I know about electronics, it appears that if the good-quality driver is adequately ventilated and the led's are run within their temperature specs it makes for a stable load on the driver up to 100% rated wattage, if the rating is realistic. And it's common for people here to run their cobs way below temperature spec. The driver stability is generally taken for granted. But, of course, electronics do sometimes fail. Usually it's related to excess heat. There's been no large scale spate of complaints about dying Meanwell drivers, or the newer players either. That would become apparent pretty quick. Not saying it can't happen though.
Same here, rather pay a little more for the proven quality.Meanwell's best are probably the best, period. The HLG series is great, I have a couple open frame and laptop-style drivers from them as well to run various things. Linear drivers, I look elsewhere.
PLC's Meanwell clones shipped out with broken dimming. Now there's a company I'm going to trust to build drivers. Just as good as Meanwell, we swear. Jesus. I'd rather pay $10 more, thanks.
I agree that they are top quality hardware, and they can be pushed to certain limits. But that doesn't mean they are invincible to failure. Mean Well's own suggested use says to give yourself 30% headroom. At least 1 driver has died on a riu member, as I linked, and another driver died on growmau5.. as he said in one of those tech talk videos on youtube. It's rare, but it does happen. this is only 1 site.. what about other sites and other users? I've read posts in the reef tank community in the past.. they've been using this stuff far longer than we have. That's where I learned most of this.. that and knna.. one of the godfathers of led growing. I'm pretty sure he'd be saying to give that headroom as well.@Spuzzum these drivers really do happily provide 106-110% with open dimming wires. And most people have them in the open and well ventilated. Those that don't will probably have issues, eventually. Took my first one 3 years to kick it, but whatever. It was in a crap spot.
those pots turn up to 220W, see my post aboveI'm with 80% guy in theory, not so much in practice. 100% driver utilization is a silly goal to have, way too much obsession here with that. Just pick what fits, if there's some left over on the driver, who cares? Fraction of a percent of efficiency gain, if any at all on some drivers, as @Spuzzum pointed out.
However, how do you run the CC/CV drivers in CC mode at anything less than 100%? You don't, but they also put out less power than the CC versions. 187W vs 200W in the HLG-185s. Built in derating.
Sure, mine does the same. I was just pointing out that people should not actually rely on test reports to make purchasing decisions. If it says CC region 50-100V, and you try to run at 40V because the test driver managed it...don't be suprised if you need to order a different driver.those pots turn up to 220W, see my post above
And my reef is exactly where I had Meanwell HLG die. In under three years.I agree that they are top quality hardware, and they can be pushed to certain limits. But that doesn't mean they are invincible to failure. Mean Well's own suggested use says to give yourself 30% headroom. At least 1 driver has died on a riu member, as I linked, and another driver died on growmau5.. as he said in one of those tech talk videos on youtube. It's rare, but it does happen. this is only 1 site.. what about other sites and other users? I've read posts in the reef tank community in the past.. they've been using this stuff far longer than we have. That's where I learned most of this.. that and knna.. one of the godfathers of led growing. I'm pretty sure he'd be saying to give that headroom as well.
Basically.. if I can prevent it by spending a few extra dollars, to get a driver using the recommendations of the actual manufacturer.. then that's what I'd do. That's how I design everything I make.. I look at any and all scenarios, and what could go wrong. I then work around that.
cheers.
Hey I never said nothing about turning no cobs down. Eff dat.yes but i guess my point is if the nameplate says 3.9A, you should feel relatively comfortable running it right up to that as it certainly can handle it without breaking a sweat. im all for conservative design. but when theres yield on the line, to turn your drivers down at all with the false hope of it maybe living 18 years instead of 15 just doesnt make sense for most people in our application
Hey @BOBBY_G where did you get that cool voltage/current/power meter? I want one (or maybe more than one)!theres no "may". every meanwell 185HLG that leaves the factory can push 220W, period. i just grabbed a new-in-the-box hlg-185h-48A and threw 2 cobs on it and maxed out the current. the two i grabbed were efficient but if i grabbed less efficient ones that ran at a higher voltage, they woulda maxed out the driver over 220W
View attachment 3732642
note that the rated output = 3.9A
actual max output = 4.26A
theres your built in 10%
hey im just here to rabblerouse, i offer no data to this threadHey I never said nothing about turning no cobs down. Eff dat.
You know, it's really time you started your own thread. Then I will have a new outdated top post to bitch about, and we can all get caught up on the latest and greatest Bobby datas in one spot.
that was a $12 ebay china dealio. its semi-accurateHey @BOBBY_G where did you get that cool voltage/current/power meter? I want one (or maybe more than one)!
Yeah, really need to be 150v-200v to cover my 147V driver. I will look around. Thanks for the info.that was a $12 ebay china dealio. its semi-accurate
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-20A-7-100V-LCD-Digital-Watt-Current-Power-Voltage-Meter-Ammeter-Voltmeter-US-/271952144643?hash=item3f519c6903:g:VR0AAOSwyQtVxihe
only good to 100v so may or may not work with cob in series setup
I agree with you that you should have some headroom, but Mean Well also tests the HLG-185 driver at 220W. So when we load them up to around 200W we have 10% extra room from the actual maximum already.Mean Well's own suggested use says to give yourself 30% headroom.