Light ???

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
They were forming buds at each top.

it takes 2 hours of darkness to send a plant into its phytochrome state. With IR ot takes a few min.

So when the lights came back on. The plants might have thought it was new day.

Like all other training methods and longer day manipulation , it's strain dependent.
In that case, you have discovered a way to make photos flower under 18 hours light per day total.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
In that case, you have discovered a way to make photos flower under 18 hours light per day total.
with some strains I guess. I've even seen plushberry start flowering when it gets rootbound during veg.

One time I had a bunch of plants flower in veg in 20 /4 when I ran too much IR from 710 -760nm. I forget what strains those were. That was 6 or 7 years ago. I was running raspberry cough, master kush afghani bullrider, whitaker blues , and skywalker back then. I don't remember which it was.


Typically with 730nm IR lighting on for 5 min after lights out to mimic sunset in late summer and fall. You can run 14 hours on and 10 hours off. Treat it like seasons going from spring to fall. 12/12 first 2 weeks then 13/11 or 13.5 / 10.5 or 14/11 then back to 12/12 the last 2 weeks
 

Odin*

Well-Known Member
@RM3 runs his RH quite low, so this doesn't become a problem in his application.

He's after resin maximization, not yield. It's a different mindset.

It was an example, but even still, utilizing an AC to control the temps would dry the room out even further, altering the water/nutrient uptake and feeding schedule.



High heat is counterproductive in resin development. Terpenes are the major components (oils) of resin. Low terpene development means low resin. Just look at the GSC pics I posted. I don't think I would even need to mention that the purple GSC (cooler temps) was the far "stickier" plant.

Again, fire can be grown in various environments, but there are optimal conditions that yield the best of buds. Cool temperatures fascilitate terpene development and overall plant metabolism.
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
with some strains I guess. I've even seen plushberry start flowering when it gets rootbound during veg.

One time I had a bunch of plants flower in veg in 20 /4 when I ran too much IR from 710 -760nm. I forget what strains those were. That was 6 or 7 years ago. I was running raspberry cough, master kush afghani bullrider, whitaker blues , and skywalker back then. I don't remember which it was.


Typically with 730nm IR lighting on for 5 min after lights out to mimic sunset in late summer and fall. You can run 14 hours on and 10 hours off. Treat it like seasons going from spring to fall. 12/12 first 2 weeks then 13/11 or 13.5 / 10.5 or 14/11 then back to 12/12 the last 2 weeks
I do that without the ir and most will flower at about 14.5-14 hours light. Of course sativas around 12/12 and some even 10/12.

I go from veg to flower over a couple weeks.

I just prefer to do it that way.
 

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Oh I do not. I hardly ever mention HPS at all. Just doesn't come up that often. I'm just going by experience. I find they burn plants up too much and produce too much heat in general.
You need to dissipate more watts of CFL to get the same amount of light as HPS. That means CFL produces more heat. That's what efficiency means. CFL generates way more heat than HPS.

Just too problematic to deal with compared to LED and CFL.
Bunch of idiots growing with 1000W HPS, right? They should take your advice and upgrade to CFL. :dunce:
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
@RM3 runs his RH quite low, so this doesn't become a problem in his application.

He's after resin maximization, not yield. It's a different mindset.

That's the opposite of what he's doing. He's after yield not trichome heads. If he was after trichs his plants would stink. The terpene oils are inside the waxy membrane of trichome head

Higher temps = larger yield poor trichome production, more airy buds

lower temps =. better trichome production, slightly smaller yield, denser buds


Heat and humidity are the enemy of trichomes. Ask any well known hash maker. They will tell you the same. Infact Robert Clarke says the same too. He wrote the book on marijuana botany and hash.
 
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BobCajun

Well-Known Member
You need to dissipate more watts of CFL to get the same amount of light as HPS. That means CFL produces more heat. That's what efficiency means. CFL generates way more heat than HPS.



Bunch of idiots growing with 1000W HPS, right? They should take your advice and upgrade to CFL. :dunce:
No, actually I don't advise anyone to do anything. Don't really give a crap what other people do. If I DID give advice before, I hearby withdraw it. Happy now?
 

BobCajun

Well-Known Member
with some strains I guess. I've even seen plushberry start flowering when it gets rootbound during veg.

One time I had a bunch of plants flower in veg in 20 /4 when I ran too much IR from 710 -760nm. I forget what strains those were. That was 6 or 7 years ago. I was running raspberry cough, master kush afghani bullrider, whitaker blues , and skywalker back then. I don't remember which it was.


Typically with 730nm IR lighting on for 5 min after lights out to mimic sunset in late summer and fall. You can run 14 hours on and 10 hours off. Treat it like seasons going from spring to fall. 12/12 first 2 weeks then 13/11 or 13.5 / 10.5 or 14/11 then back to 12/12 the last 2 weeks
I suspect that you made an error when you set the timer and ended up with at least 10 hours of straight darkness in there somewhere. You're telling me you set the timer for 6/2/6/2/6/2 and plants flowered? You know how short day plants work, right? So you know that if you set the timer correctly that no short day plant could possibly flower under that light cycle. Therefore, I think we both know what really happened. Not saying you're a screwup, just that mistakes happen when setting timers for unconventional light cycles sometimes.
 

RM3

Well-Known Member
@RM3 I didn't miss that bit and I don't doubt that you've dialed in your setup to run at, or close to, it's best. With higher temps, the plants will sweat more, this forces them to drink more, which assists in keeping the roots healthier. However, the constant sweating/loss of water is what prevents the buds from developing the bulbous calyxes. The "sweating"/heat also decreases terpene development. This might explain why your garden doesn't "stink". If you cooled your room via AC, the AC would pull water from the room (condenser), maintaining a similar level of soil moisture, but your plant would not be drawing up that water and "sweating". That alone would completely change your "feed" and watering schedule.



To illustrate the drastic difference that temperature makes, here is my GSC, grown in higher temps. Notice the lack of bulbous calyxes, the amount of leaves (in bud), the hairs, the color (which is determined by terpenes, as is scent and flavors).





Here is that exact same strain (my GSC, all from a single original clone), only grown in cooler temps. No other change was made, same medium, same feed schedule, same room. Look at the change in bud structure. Bulbous calyxes, very low leaf count, very few hairs, all purple (increased terpenes). I will also say that the nose is far stronger/complex, flavors are better as well as more complex, and the smoke is more potent, the high more complex and longer in duration. This is the healthier/happier plant and sets the bar that every run with this strain will be measured against. As long as I can maintain those temps, she will come out identical each time, everything else is in perfect order.



Here is some glue from that same run.







You can grow herb in higher temps, I've churned out fire from 88F, but that doesn't mean that it was grown in optimal conditions, or was as good as it could have been. Again, cooler temps, CO2 supplementation, roots, watering, nutrients, etc. at "perfect" levels allow for a greater light saturation threshold, which increases metabolism, resulting in boosted rates of photosynthesis. Higher temps lower the light saturation threshold and slows/stops the metabolism, which decreases/stops photosynthesis.
All I can say is you must now follow my grows lol,,,, You and others simply don't get it my room temp is not high !!!!!! Right now my room is 79 degrees my canopy is 91 my root zones are 71, the RH is 31%. My way of growing is COMPLETELY different than what you know or are used to. I have no seals, no ventilation fans, no carbon scrubber. My 5 X 5 grow area sits in the middle of a 500 sq ft room and is WIDE OPEN and my house is air conditioned.

Please take a moment to go outside on a day in the low 80's and put a thermometer in the sun, you'll see that what I do is how Mom Nature rolls it's not rocket science 8)

Please tell me how I fucked up this bud?
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c99b.jpg
 

Thorhax

Well-Known Member
RM3 grows in kitty litter if I'm not mistaken....made up of a lot of carbon. could be one of the reasons his plants don't smell. kitty litter was designed to absorb way stronger smells than some dank weed.

though if you have been using the same kitty liter for years....idk... maybe the waterings act as a wash for the kitty litter?

to be honest even after reading your book @RM3, i still don't understand. but whatever, it works for youbongsmilie:bigjoint:
 
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RM3

Well-Known Member
RM3 grows in kitty litter if I'm not mistaken....made up of a lot of carbon. could be one of the reasons his plants don't smell. kitty litter was designed to absorb way stronger smells than some dank weed.

though if you have been using the same kitty liter for years....idk... maybe the waterings act as a wash for the kitty litter?

to be honest even after reading your book @RM3, i still don't understand. but whatever, it works for youbongsmilie:bigjoint:
I'm sorry to hear that? The kitty liter I use is simply Calcined Clay, no scent, no odor control, it helps aeration, it retains water and it slowly adds sulfur or IOW creates a sulfur rich environment
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I suspect that you made an error when you set the timer and ended up with at least 10 hours of straight darkness in there somewhere. You're telling me you set the timer for 6/2/6/2/6/2 and plants flowered? You know how short day plants work, right? So you know that if you set the timer correctly that no short day plant could possibly flower under that light cycle. Therefore, I think we both know what really happened. Not saying you're a screwup, just that mistakes happen when setting timers for unconventional light cycles sometimes.
Might have mistaken preflowers for the real deal.
 
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