Unless this forum is responsible for the virtual tsunami of pin heatsinks coming out of China, I'd say nobody here is responsible for anything except buying what is available for cheap from our Asian brothers.passive pin heatsinks everywhere===imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.........................or something like that, plc would be proud
That was my point with a 20 some CRI HPS lamp producing enviable results. There are horticultural reference spectrums but no industry standards as far as I know. Besides that we will need canna-specific data.
I'm glad you feel your Amare grows with all they have, and I've never said they were bad lamps but you understand that your feelings don't prove things I'm sure. My preference when we are discussing spectrum tweaking and morphology would be to leave brands out of it. The only time I'm talking about Tasty lamps is when I'm talking about Tasty lamps. I'll be doing some proxy testing on some Citi cobs over the next 3-6 months and will hopefully have some useful data to share at that time. I expect to see some morphology differences but don't suspect notable yield differences, though if the results are surprising that will be good to know. Until then, or until someone else I consider trustworthy puts out some controlled grow data I will continue to feel strongly that within the context of a reasonable spectrum 3000-4000K 70-90 CRI the overwhelming factor regarding yield is how many photons are hitting the plant. You can't just compare two lamps with known wattage from the wall and conclude that one has a better spectrum, much less the best possible.
id have to agree with this ^^^^^^^after re-reading my post sober..........................RIU, beat me with a penguin carcass.Unless this forum is responsible for the virtual tsunami of pin heatsinks coming out of China, I'd say nobody here is responsible for anything except buying what is available for cheap from our Asian brothers.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/amare-tech-led-pricing-6-26-2015.875400/#post-11955741
Did you ask @sunni ? Seems like a pretty reasonable dude, honestly.
Citizen doesn't bin, it's all min/max/typical.Hi Jorge it seems you are the citizen cob expert I was wondering if you could help me what is the best citizen cob to get.or top bin if they bin I want to build my first cob light and the cree is a little to expensive any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Thank you for the infoCitizen doesn't bin, it's all min/max/typical.
Here's a rundown I wrote, hard to find, sorry about that. This place is a total mess:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/cheap-and-cheerful-diy-using-citizen-cobs.909460/page-10#post-12731076
This is a collection of tables showing lm/W, efficiency, PPF etc at various currents for different Citizens. All anufacturer provided data:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/cheap-and-cheerful-diy-using-citizen-cobs.909460/page-13#post-12802292
@robincnn and @BOBBY_G both have practical tests against the 3590 and new Veros, but I swear to baby jesus I'm not sure what thread any of them are in. They are also the two to see if you want to actually find any of cobs to buy, unless you get lucky at CDI.
The difficult bit is figuring out heatsinks, holders, optics, and drivers. So, the light. They can be awkward to fit on constant current drivers.
A cheap but awesome build would be 1825s @ $40 each, running two per HLG-240H-C2100, for a 220W light. Active cooled, no optics, very reasonable way to build, less than half the cob cost of a 3590. I'm sure there are other good options if you can sort the logistics. 1812 or 1818 @ 700ma, or 1212 at 1050ma fit well on drivers as well.
Yeah, if diversion from the topic was the goal.great reply!
It seemed relevant.Yeah, if diversion from the topic was the goal.
No, I totally get it. But I wasn't suggesting anything or saying much other then a comp. has built a light like you described as being better for horicultural use. No need to get defensive.It seemed relevant.
Explain how HPS with 22 CRI can produce similar GPPW to other lights.
CRI is a standard set against the faithful replication of a list of specific colors against black body radiation at a specific Kelvin temp (not necessarily the Sun). Look it up. If you don't care to, then consider the fact that a candle with a Kelvin rating of 1700 has a CRI of 100. Additionally, taking a specific COB spectrum and adding to the red and blue peaks doesn't make it more Sun-like and doesn't necessarily increase the CRI. Also, there's no proof that the Sun is a standard we should be working towards. A sunlight spectrum would be in the 5000-6000K range with the spectral peak at 450-600nm. Perhaps now you can understand why so many people here hesitate to proclaim any specific spectrum as "the best" and why there is more research to be done.
Yeah, if diversion from the topic was the goal. Putting a bunch of words out there like I said them so people will lose sight of the topic & respond with likes. Ha. Not even close. It's all good though!
Some totally reasonable undefensive shit in response
What in the actual fuck dude? It's like everything you read gets garbled up and turned into a personal insult, while your own memory rewrites itself and turns you into a blameless angel. It's totally bananas!No, I totally get it...No need to get defensive.
My first reply was about one sentence. His last on his post I replied to. Go quote it for me please, I don't know how!?What in the actual fuck dude? It's like everything you read gets garbled up and turned into a personal insult, while your own memory rewrites itself and turns you into a blameless angel. It's totally bananas!
the clu048 series are a no brainer. a rundown:The difficult bit is figuring out heatsinks, holders, optics, and drivers. So, the light. They can be awkward to fit on constant current drivers.
A cheap but awesome build would be 1825s @ $40 each, running two per HLG-240H-C2100, for a 220W light. Active cooled, no optics, very reasonable way to build, less than half the cob cost of a 3590. I'm sure there are other good options if you can sort the logistics. 1812 or 1818 @ 700ma, or 1212 at 1050ma fit well on drivers as well.
The person I was replying to was asking about CRI. You replied to me without being specific about what you were replying to so I covered all the bases... it's useful discussion for this forum anyway.The rest was assumption that I wanna argue over CRI ect...
Or the answer is right above our heads! As a grower, from day one, I have tried to replicate an outdoor or natural environment w/ man made enhancements. More Co2, enhance white light, nutrients, soils, temp. & hunmidity. All based around what works in nature, but more of it cuz we can. Its common sense by now.The person I was replying to was asking about CRI. You replied to me without being specific about what you were replying to so I covered all the bases... it's useful discussion for this forum anyway.
Moving the peak from 600nm to 630 is useful if it includes more photons per watt in the 580-680 range IMO. Whether a specific nm in that range is more powerful than others when it comes to the question of yield is not something that's been proven, and the reality of HPS yield does throw doubt on the idea that spiking the red makes some meaningful difference in the end. I hesitate to guess except to say it's reasonable to suggest the difference will be small if it's there. There is the question of the Emerson response, but I don't think the study was specific enough to draw conclusions about what ratios are necessary for it to work. Fortunately there are a wide variety of spectrums that can provide excellent results, but the reality is that when it comes to the perfect spectrum we're basically still in the dark.
Yeah, if diversion from the topic was the goal.
Putting a bunch of words out there like I said them so people will lose sight of the topic & respond with likes. Ha. Not even close. It's all good though!