12 Plants Under ~600w Cob Leds

butterbudface

Well-Known Member
Going to start a grow diary here.

12 Exodus Cheese clones

12 x Vero29's Driven @ 1.55A

3 part nutes (Micro/Grow/Bloom)

only running 8 of the 12 LEDs at the moment to save a little on electricity.

They are in totes with net pots and a air pump with NO air-stones.

I'm still planning on building a cabinet around the whole setup to get better control over temps and humidity.

Please feel free to criticize as much as you want.

upload_2016-8-2_13-28-4.png

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I burned them when they were little but they seem to have recovered now. Put them in the hydro setup 2016/07/31. I'm hoping to see some new white roots tonight.

I still consider myself a noob. If you see something wrong please let me know.

So my tap water was at ec 330ppm (0.5 factor pen). I added 6ml of each bottle to the 10L water as specified on the bottle. Ph'ed to 5.8 as i know the ph drifts upwards a little.

My concern is that after adding the nutes the ppm were only 410ppm. Does this mean i'm only feeding at 80PPM? it seems way to low? Should I just add more nutes in the same ratios till the ppm is in the right range?
 

MrTwist1

Well-Known Member
Going to start a grow diary here.

12 Exodus Cheese clones

12 x Vero29's Driven @ 1.55A

3 part nutes (Micro/Grow/Bloom)

only running 8 of the 12 LEDs at the moment to save a little on electricity.

They are in totes with net pots and a air pump with NO air-stones.

I'm still planning on building a cabinet around the whole setup to get better control over temps and humidity.

Please feel free to criticize as much as you want.

View attachment 3747464

View attachment 3747466

I burned them when they were little but they seem to have recovered now. Put them in the hydro setup 2016/07/31. I'm hoping to see some new white roots tonight.

I still consider myself a noob. If you see something wrong please let me know.

So my tap water was at ec 330ppm (0.5 factor pen). I added 6ml of each bottle to the 10L water as specified on the bottle. Ph'ed to 5.8 as i know the ph drifts upwards a little.

My concern is that after adding the nutes the ppm were only 410ppm. Does this mean i'm only feeding at 80PPM? it seems way to low? Should I just add more nutes in the same ratios till the ppm is in the right range?
TDS meters actually measure EC (electrical conductivity) and then convert that internally to TDS using a conversion factor of 0.5 or 0.7 to calculate PPM. Many people find it simpler and easier to talk in terms of EC.

At 410ppm TDS with a 0.5 conversion factor you are feeding approx 0.8 EC... which I believe is in the ballpark for hydroponics, although the real hydro guys should be able to confirm this. good luck
 

butterbudface

Well-Known Member
TDS meters actually measure EC (electrical conductivity) and then convert that internally to TDS using a conversion factor of 0.5 or 0.7 to calculate PPM. Many people find it simpler and easier to talk in terms of EC.

At 410ppm TDS with a 0.5 conversion factor you are feeding approx 0.8 EC... which I believe is in the ballpark for hydroponics, although the real hydro guys should be able to confirm this. good luck
my tap water is 0.6 EC though?

so there is only 0.2 EC worth of nute's in my water?

Am i understanding something wrong?
 

In Shape Vet

Well-Known Member
use your meter a ref, write em down along with the ph. watch for ph drift to know if the plants need more or less nutes. first see if these guys are heavy eaters or not. you can work your way up over the next few days until the ph stops rising each day. this will get you going into the ballpark in regards what you should keep your meter readings at. and of course also watch for burn.

when using tubs like that instead of buckets changes might take another day.

you should get some air stones in there, the air stones will make smaller bubbles, the importance of this is the increased surface area it provides to further allow the oxygen to become dissolved in the water.

what are you going to use for ventilation? you can also install an osccilating fan on each side of your set up on the ends. you can hang them upside down and have them blowing across the tops of the plants.

if your going to do any lst, or training the plants with wire, they are big enough to do so. i prefer the wires, it doesnt slow them down as much but still allows lower branches to grow due to auxin displacement in the plant i think, but dont quote me on it.

looks like a very nice set up, those are some nice looking lights as well. i use led but i just have some cheap ebay ones that have been kicking ass for well over a year now. i was able to grow a large pablino pepper plant that grew lots of peppers with it.

is this your first time using that 3 part? is it from gh? you may not need the grow. just 1 micro and 2 blooms. you can look into the lucas formula. i started out with that, its simple and works. helps you get a feel.
 

butterbudface

Well-Known Member
use your meter a ref, write em down along with the ph. watch for ph drift to know if the plants need more or less nutes. first see if these guys are heavy eaters or not. you can work your way up over the next few days until the ph stops rising each day. this will get you going into the ballpark in regards what you should keep your meter readings at. and of course also watch for burn.
Thank you, this is the info i'm looking for.

when using tubs like that instead of buckets changes might take another day.

you should get some air stones in there, the air stones will make smaller bubbles, the importance of this is the increased surface area it provides to further allow the oxygen to become dissolved in the water.
I have used air stones in the past and ime the open pipe with a weight toe keep it down works best.
what are you going to use for ventilation? you can also install an osccilating fan on each side of your set up on the ends. you can hang them upside down and have them blowing across the tops of the plants.
A osilating fan and a 8inch extractor fan with scrubber



if your going to do any lst, or training the plants with wire, they are big enough to do so. i prefer the wires, it doesnt slow them down as much but still allows lower branches to grow due to auxin displacement in the plant i think, but dont quote me on it.
that is accurate. I am going to install a screen and scrog this thing

looks like a very nice set up, those are some nice looking lights as well. i use led but i just have some cheap ebay ones that have been kicking ass for well over a year now. i was able to grow a large pablino pepper plant that grew lots of peppers with it.
The light seem to be working perfect!

is this your first time using that 3 part? is it from gh? you may not need the grow. just 1 micro and 2 blooms. you can look into the lucas formula. i started out with that, its simple and works. helps you get a feel.
Lucas is more for GH i use a local brad, first time running these nutes, they seem to not raise the ppm so high?
 

Yodaweed

Well-Known Member
Do those totes cave in when the plants get too big? I would recommend each one get an airstone, yes they can grow without it but they will grow bigger/faster/stronger with an air stone in that water.
 

weed-whacker

Well-Known Member
i used to fuck around with ppm but honestly start at quarter the recommended dose, next time half, then full, then full then 1.25x full then 1,5x full then2x full ect, until u burn them then go back to the last dose that didn't burn them.

each strain will need dif ec, same strain with lower humidity will need less ec, same strain with more light will need more ec, same strain with higher humidity and more light will need same ec ect ect etc

just watch ur plants, they will tell u what to do.

(this is just what I do, take it with a grain of salt)
good luck
 

butterbudface

Well-Known Member
Do those totes cave in when the plants get too big? I would recommend each one get an airstone, yes they can grow without it but they will grow bigger/faster/stronger with an air stone in that water.
I'm planning of putting a screen up, that should support their weight. The totes are sturdy though.

If I'm putting anything in to reduce the size of the bubbles it wont be air stones, rather the hose, but I'm confident with my pipe just tied down method.

i used to fuck around with ppm but honestly start at quarter the recommended dose, next time half, then full, then full then 1.25x full then 1,5x full then2x full ect, until u burn them then go back to the last dose that didn't burn them.

each strain will need dif ec, same strain with lower humidity will need less ec, same strain with more light will need more ec, same strain with higher humidity and more light will need same ec ect ect etc

just watch ur plants, they will tell u what to do.

(this is just what I do, take it with a grain of salt)
good luck

This was what i was looking for! So i can feed my plants at say 2x the recomended dose if they don't burn?
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
my tap water is 0.6 EC though?

so there is only 0.2 EC worth of nute's in my water?

Am i understanding something wrong?
the problem is what is it thats making your tap water .6ec ? if you dont know whats in your water you will never know why the plants look bad.you need to either get your water tested to find out what the break down is,or use cleaner water like r/o or some other type of filtered.if that 330ppm is all iron or even manganese your doomed out the gate in hydro.the water is all you have so knowing it is paramount to a good run in dro.when i ran grow micro bloom i used 7ml per gallon of each for small plants and worked up to 10 to 12 ml per gallon until late flower when i dropped the micro down to around 5 and bumped the bloom up to compensate.but i use r/o water @ about 6 ppm so pretty damn clean to start.
if you want to use that tap get it tested.
 

butterbudface

Well-Known Member
the problem is what is it thats making your tap water .6ec ? if you dont know whats in your water you will never know why the plants look bad.you need to either get your water tested to find out what the break down is,or use cleaner water like r/o or some other type of filtered.if that 330ppm is all iron or even manganese your doomed out the gate in hydro.the water is all you have so knowing it is paramount to a good run in dro.when i ran grow micro bloom i used 7ml per gallon of each for small plants and worked up to 10 to 12 ml per gallon until late flower when i dropped the micro down to around 5 and bumped the bloom up to compensate.but i use r/o water @ about 6 ppm so pretty damn clean to start.
if you want to use that tap get it tested.
i was just unprepared this week im going with 70% ro at 2ppm and 30% shitty water with 340ppm should make it around 100ish ppm then i'm adding my nutrients from there. Should i add calmag or are the calmag in the nutrient mix suffitient?
 

weed-whacker

Well-Known Member
I'm planning of putting a screen up, that should support their weight. The totes are sturdy though.

If I'm putting anything in to reduce the size of the bubbles it wont be air stones, rather the hose, but I'm confident with my pipe just tied down method.




This was what i was looking for! So i can feed my plants at say 2x the recomended dose if they don't burn?

in theory yeah, but you should feed ur plants as little as possible so long as they dont show deficiencies. mostly about what the instructions say is right
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
i was just unprepared this week im going with 70% ro at 2ppm and 30% shitty water with 340ppm should make it around 100ish ppm then i'm adding my nutrients from there. Should i add calmag or are the calmag in the nutrient mix suffitient?
plenty of cal and mag if you use all 3 parts full cycle or at least to week 6 or 7.but still that tap water might be loaded with cal and or mag and then you will have issues.looks like they already are having problems based on the pics,i would bet the next run in just r/o would look much better.but if ya tested your water and it does have calcium or mag,or other goodies you could just switch to any hard water nute and solve some issues if you insist on using your tap water.
 

sixstring2112

Well-Known Member
5 weeks of shitty tap water
2-2-10.jpg

5 weeks of r/o
hydro & the flav 001.JPG hydro & the flav 003.JPG

that tap water plant never made it to flower lol.i tried for a good 2 months to turn that fucker around and once the other shit on r/o water got bigger after being 4 or 5 weeks behind i tossed the shitty one in the compost pile and never looked back.
if you are using a/c or a dehumidifier you can collect the water from those and its as clean as r/o.think i paid 220.00 for my last ro system maybe 250,but damn man thats an oz of weed to cover the water sys.
 

butterbudface

Well-Known Member
plenty of cal and mag if you use all 3 parts full cycle or at least to week 6 or 7.but still that tap water might be loaded with cal and or mag and then you will have issues.looks like they already are having problems based on the pics,i would bet the next run in just r/o would look much better.but if ya tested your water and it does have calcium or mag,or other goodies you could just switch to any hard water nute and solve some issues if you insist on using your tap water.
How much calmag is plenty? 80ppm calmag 2 much?
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Thank you, this is the info i'm looking for.



I have used air stones in the past and ime the open pipe with a weight toe keep it down works best.


A osilating fan and a 8inch extractor fan with scrubber





that is accurate. I am going to install a screen and scrog this thing



The light seem to be working perfect!



Lucas is more for GH i use a local brad, first time running these nutes, they seem to not raise the ppm so high?
Dude... use the 4" large cylinder air stones. You need to be breaking up the bubbles as small as you possibly can. Just sticking an air line, weighted, under water is terrible for achieving this. Get. STONES. NOW.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
And yes, reverse osmosis water in Hydro is as absolute must. People who say "oh I use tap water with great results" have never tried r/o water and have no idea what they're missing out on.
 
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