Adrosmokin
Well-Known Member
I'm organic too, have had good luck with mosquito dunks.
bodhi seeds
- Thread starter dankydonky
- Start date
packrat007
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the gnat info, will have to try some those suggestions.. Used Spinosad in the past, only worked so so.
indican3
Well-Known Member
I hate fungus gnats too! My tips:
1. Water less - Top soil needs to dry out every so often to kill larva. Throw some diatomaceous earth on the top also if you have some to allow the topsoil to dry out quicker.
2. Have good drainage, rocks/perlite at the bottom of potted plants. I had gnats breeding using the drainage holes at the bottom, don't give them organic material to feed on there.
3. Buy some Nematoads, products like this may be sold at your Hydroponics store: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nema-globe-3000-sq-ft-Coverage-Grub-Busters-Natural-Grub-Eliminator-8003002/203148153 . Water the packets and nematoads are slowly released into the soil, feeding on gnat larvae and won't hurt your plant! I'd actually recommend using this as a preventative measure also before gnats even appear if you're growing a seedling in a large 3 gallon + pot.
4. Sand that topsoil. Get some play sand, put a 1/2 inch layer at least on top, the larvae can't escape and become gnats so the cycle should stop. Note sanding the topsoil only works if you have good drainage as mentioned, otherwise your flies will breed below and it's much harder to address. Sand will start to creep down the side walls of the container overtime, your plants roots won't mind but you can always re-pot the plant later. I don't much like the look of sand on the topsoil (it's alright i guess) but it looks much better than gnats do.
5. Buy yellow sticky traps: https://www.amazon.com/Safer-Houseplant-Sticky-Stakes-Insect/dp/B000OV8OTY , this will help slow don't the infestation but don't expect it to prevent anything entirely.
6. Water plants at the same time, and divide and conquer i.e put plants in different rooms if you can.
7. Keep a clean grow room, remove excess water, don't mist the room too often either.
People also recommend sprays, burying a potato slice in the ground etc, but the above is usually enough for me.
Remember, the flies don't hurt your plant, their larvae which lays 1000s of eggs that will start eating your plants roots once they run out of food are the real pest.
1. Water less - Top soil needs to dry out every so often to kill larva. Throw some diatomaceous earth on the top also if you have some to allow the topsoil to dry out quicker.
2. Have good drainage, rocks/perlite at the bottom of potted plants. I had gnats breeding using the drainage holes at the bottom, don't give them organic material to feed on there.
3. Buy some Nematoads, products like this may be sold at your Hydroponics store: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nema-globe-3000-sq-ft-Coverage-Grub-Busters-Natural-Grub-Eliminator-8003002/203148153 . Water the packets and nematoads are slowly released into the soil, feeding on gnat larvae and won't hurt your plant! I'd actually recommend using this as a preventative measure also before gnats even appear if you're growing a seedling in a large 3 gallon + pot.
4. Sand that topsoil. Get some play sand, put a 1/2 inch layer at least on top, the larvae can't escape and become gnats so the cycle should stop. Note sanding the topsoil only works if you have good drainage as mentioned, otherwise your flies will breed below and it's much harder to address. Sand will start to creep down the side walls of the container overtime, your plants roots won't mind but you can always re-pot the plant later. I don't much like the look of sand on the topsoil (it's alright i guess) but it looks much better than gnats do.
5. Buy yellow sticky traps: https://www.amazon.com/Safer-Houseplant-Sticky-Stakes-Insect/dp/B000OV8OTY , this will help slow don't the infestation but don't expect it to prevent anything entirely.
6. Water plants at the same time, and divide and conquer i.e put plants in different rooms if you can.
7. Keep a clean grow room, remove excess water, don't mist the room too often either.
People also recommend sprays, burying a potato slice in the ground etc, but the above is usually enough for me.
Remember, the flies don't hurt your plant, their larvae which lays 1000s of eggs that will start eating your plants roots once they run out of food are the real pest.
hockeybry2
Well-Known Member
Put a top layer of perlite over the soil and those fuckers were gone in a few days. I think it will be the standard for me moving forward
GreenTools
Well-Known Member
Spinosad is great for thrips....didn't seem to affect fungus gnats in my setup... Capt. Jacks Dead bug brew !
COGrown
Well-Known Member
Spinosad is good for thrips, which nothing else seemed to work on.
Yup
hillbill
Well-Known Member
Mosquito Dunks have the same bacteria as gnatrol and are available at most hardware, nurseries, and big box stores. Easier to get for some. Diatomaceous Earth helps on surfaces and on containers between soil and container top. Not saying anything negative about gnatrol.
JDGreen
Well-Known Member
Im using diatomaceous earth on top, will prolly be mixeing it into.the next barch.cuz the season isnt good.
I also use b thurcide bateria, which seems to help.
Do the mosquito dunks help too?
I really just need them under good control. And id rather not use.my last resort. Peroxide wash, which in theory should kill on contact but difuse to water and oxygen.
Bubbashine
Well-Known Member
Goji OG 12/12 from seed first time running... I only popped 4 beans & got 2 fem!!!
Lex Talioniss
Well-Known Member
Lex Talioniss
Well-Known Member
Thrips are fucking with my life right now. Im trying a high humidity method I read about before dousing everything in spinosad. Little leaf eating bastards!
hillbill
Well-Known Member
The dunks and gnatrol use bacteria that feed on fg larvae so either way. They will keep them seriously on the decline as replacing adults are not making it to adult stage. I always have a few around but my area is the most gnat-free in the house. My compost and bog garden have millions as does decaying leaves and such. Harmless out there.
Dunks definitely help! I crumbled some onto the top layer of medium and they were gone in days. Before the dunks I couldn't take clones because they were so bad. Fyi I was told that home depot would not be carrying the dunks in stores this year but they would have it online. Lowe's still carry's them in stores
Bubbashine
Well-Known Member
Took a few more images of my Goji some are macro, but they're handheld so not super sharp.
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doniawon
Well-Known Member
Gnatrol and mosquito dunks are BT, BT works well but takes time to become effective. And as someone stated already distilled or RO only as chlorine will kill the BT.
My favorite product to rid fungus gnats on contact would b a azamax drench. Only draw back would b its antimicrobial and may impact your soil food web.
May need to reinnoculate after the drench.
Would prevent other pest as well as it becomes a systemic antifeedent
I'm anxious to try the top layer of perlite method for fgnat control. Seems like that would increase drainage over time as well.
COGrown
Well-Known Member
Azamax is just made with azadirachtin extracted from neem, so I don't think it would have the fungicidal compounds that are in need oil. It probably wouldn't be great for then, but i don't think it would outright kill the fungal life in the soil the way that a neem drench strong enough to kill gnats would.
packrat007
Well-Known Member
My bad. Yes, Spinosad for thrips, not gnats. Anyone got experience using nematodes?
coolkid.02
Well-Known Member
If you can't get rid of gnats you should spend more time reading and less time posting...
Gnat control is growing 101... If you can't even handle gnats, kiss your butt good bye if you get broad mites or root aphids.
Gnat control is growing 101... If you can't even handle gnats, kiss your butt good bye if you get broad mites or root aphids.