Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

[nogod_]

Lotta noodles

Hey Malo,

I have a thread elsewhere where I log all my grows although I've been a bit slow on updating it too. Google knows where. As for osrams, the ones you pointed out. Probably about 10% of total wattage, just to create a small 660 peak.


Yes, arduino with datalogger shield (which has a handy prototype area for resistors, transistors etc). Barely fits on a Uno in terms of connections and memory, ended up controlling all fans with one pwm (they all get roughly equally warm anyway).

BJB holders, tape (holders for now, not the cobs), cobs, and a digital temp sensor with more tape.

Some of the plants (hindu kush and panama clone) were already in transition for a few weeks, under an old 400watt mh on 4x4'. They've been under led for nearly 10 days now.

Panama

pure Hindu Kush (partly seeded, pollinated with PCK)

Panama x Silver Haze below. Both very stretchy yet high yielding varieties, vegged under 400w mh too low intensity for too long which caused them to stretch even more. Didn't feel like going to 600w hps for a week while I finished the brain. Fortunately I got 8 feet in height.

Yes, flat leaves. Only downside so far is that I have to turn my exhaust down too far to keep temps ideal which causes the humidity to raise a lot. That has a lot to do with my closet being unnecessary tall/large now an crappy high humidity outside though. Will fix that soon, the former that is.

My favorite, leaning more to afghanica parentage of silver haze in terms of structure, great for cropping too.

This run is mostly to check some crosses and includes a handful of males. I may use some clones of the best and do a quantity run after this one.

Most recent pic of the lcd I could find. I measured actual rpm of each fan at first but takes 4 extra wires and since I set the fan speed I already know how fast in % it runs, and they all run as fast. It's still a working in progress, still waiting on a few sensors (IR contact less temp sensor to calibrate the others, as well as measure average canopy temp). Sensor for humidity and ambient temp is hanging below the light at canopy level. The fans on the heat sink create an upward wind below the light skewing the results a little, need calibrate that. Values below are with light on 20% and just for minutes.

I use a remote like this one (an old TV remote would do too)

Dimmed to 30% or so:

 

[Castaman]

My replica of Holographic Series. Long AC and fan in final version. Much cheaper than original one. I was too lazy to look for something like "hololens" so I used acryl glass 2mm thick.

 

[Airwalker16]

My replica of Holographic Series. Long AC and fan in final version. Much cheaper than original one. I was too lazy to look for something like "hololens" so I used acryl glass 2mm thick.

So those are those luxeon holographic pcbs huh? Cool little cluster.

 

[DonBrennon]

Finally finished the lights, 300w cxb3070 3500k + 100w random epistar blurple
Running at 1690w max

But with cobs and mono's on separate dim-able circuits, for each light. This is with cobs dimmed fully and mono's maxed out.....................yes the mono's ARE some what random(I've been making this shit up as I go along and learn).

The current power/control panel is temporary and still in the design/build stage. I've got some aluminium racking for mounting everything on to reduce heat and I've got some din rail mounted timers and a contacter which I was going to use, but having seen @Sativied 's control system, wouldn't mind learning something about arduino's......................or even better, someone spoon-feeding me what to do to digitally control those bad boy's

 

[DonBrennon]

Finally finished the lights, 300w cxb3070 3500k + 100w random epistar blurpleView attachment 3764691
Running at 1690w max
View attachment 3764694
But with cobs and mono's on separate dim-able circuits, for each light. This is with cobs dimmed fully and mono's maxed out.....................yes the mono's ARE some what random(I've been making this shit up as I go along and learn).
View attachment 3764692
The current power/control panel is temporary and still in the design/build stage. I've got some aluminium racking for mounting everything on to reduce heat and I've got some din rail mounted timers and a contacter which I was going to use, but having seen @Sativied 's control system, wouldn't mind learning something about arduino's......................or even better, someone spoon-feeding me what to do to digitally control those bad boy's

Oh..........and my dog prefers blurple, even if the plants don't, LOL, think I may have blinded him temporarily. Poor sod

 

[Shugglet]

Oh..........and my dog prefers blurple, even if the plants don't, LOL, think I may have blinded him temporarily. Poor sod

Thats a nice clean build right there. Very nice.

My only concern would be the intensity of the COBs vs the singles... Assuming the COBs need to be kept further away and thus the singles are further away than ideal.

Id actually be very curious to see how your lamp would fair if you ran a grow just using the COBs and then the COBs + singles to see how much difference that extra 100w does. What do ya think? I cant be the only one curious about that.

 

[DonBrennon]

Thats a nice clean build right there. Very nice.

My only concern would be the intensity of the COBs vs the singles... Assuming the COBs need to be kept further away and thus the singles are further away than ideal.

Id actually be very curious to see how your lamp would fair if you ran a grow just using the COBs and then the COBs + singles to see how much difference that extra 100w does. What do ya think? I cant be the only one curious about that.

I see your reasoning on both points, there is the possibility that the mono's won't add much, if anything. But, I can see a significant increase in light intensity and colour change when I add the mono's. If I was running a monocrop, I'd definitley do a side by side, but there's gonna be so much pheno variation with my next few runs, a S-B-S would be inconclusive anyway. Plus when you've invested so much time and money in your lights, you wanna use em to their full potential.

 

[Shugglet]

I see your reasoning on both points, there is the possibility that the mono's won't add much, if anything. But, I can see a significant increase in light intensity and colour change when I add the mono's. If I was running a monocrop, I'd definitley do a side by side, but there's gonna be so much pheno variation with my next few runs, a S-B-S would be inconclusive anyway. Plus when you've invested so much time and money in your lights, you wanna use em to their full potential.

Yep, totally understand. If theyre there you might as well use em! Im just extremely curious whether that 100w on the blue reds would have been more effective running say, another COB in each row perhaps.

Info like that could have a significant impact on the DIY light builds.

 

[Airwalker16]

Finally finished the lights, 300w cxb3070 3500k + 100w random epistar blurpleView attachment 3764691
Running at 1690w max
View attachment 3764694
But with cobs and mono's on separate dim-able circuits, for each light. This is with cobs dimmed fully and mono's maxed out.....................yes the mono's ARE some what random(I've been making this shit up as I go along and learn).
View attachment 3764692
The current power/control panel is temporary and still in the design/build stage. I've got some aluminium racking for mounting everything on to reduce heat and I've got some din rail mounted timers and a contacter which I was going to use, but having seen @Sativied 's control system, wouldn't mind learning something about arduino's......................or even better, someone spoon-feeding me what to do to digitally control those bad boy's

My idea of a perfect extruded fixture. Mad props. Shit is SICK

 

[Sativied]

The current power/control panel is temporary and still in the design/build stage. I've got some aluminium racking for mounting everything on to reduce heat and I've got some din rail mounted timers and a contacter which I was going to use, but having seen @Sativied 's control system, wouldn't mind learning something about arduino's......................or even better, someone spoon-feeding me what to do to digitally control those bad boy's

Using an arduino for dimming and timer is barely any more difficult than what you built already, nice job. Main thing to keep in mind is that with 8 drivers you need 8 pwm channels/pins, while the popular arduino Uno has 6 by default. So you would need an arduino Mega (has more input/ouput pins including 15 pwm) or a pwm shield (shields physically stack on the arduino). If you want the arduino to be able to turn on/off individual drivers, you could use a relay like this: http://www.icstation.com/channel-relay-module-with-optocoupler-level-triger-p-3422.html (which then requires 8 pins on the arduino, not including + and gnd ). You can then still use the pots, but also connected to the arduino, requires again 8 pins/wires. Then, unless you're ok with hooking up a laptop to change the timer, you need a display (various widely available, requires 5-8 pins) and some means of input, like buttons or IR remote (less wires).

E.g. Get this one:
http://www.icstation.com/icstation-atmega2560-mega2560-board-compatible-arduino-p-3517.html
And for example this one:
http://www.icstation.com/channel-relay-module-shield-arduino-p-1706.html

Then read this one (just one of many examples)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Controlling-AC-light-using-Arduino-with-relay-modu/

Or, check aliexpress or ebay for starter sets with a mega, including breadboard for prototyping, dupont wires and usually sensors and other items to play around with. Try a few of the basic tutorials at instructables.com or adafruit or arduino site.

Like this cheap starter kit:
http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-Basic-Project-Starter-Kit-for-Arduino-UNO-R3-Mega328-Na/32650248830.html

Or, better, the following, includes display, relay, remote, real time clock module, and a whole bunch of other items for less than the cost of a genuine arduino mega by itself. Those chinese clones work fine especially for prototyping. Can always buy a genuine mega once you're done and keep the clone for other stuff or backup.
http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/100-new-mega-2560-r3-starter-kit-motor-servo-RFID-Ultrasonic-Ranging-relay-LCD-for-arduino/32231960669.html

I also highly recommend one of these:
http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Newbrand-Prototyping-Prototype-Shield-ProtoShield-Mini-Breadboard-for-Arduino-Free-Shipping/32279103685.html
Besides the handy mini breadboard, you can eventually solder all connectors/connections to the shield instead of the arduino itself (so you can remove/replace the arduino easily by removing the shield).

And like I said in a previous post, check out VegasWinner's arduino on/off dimmer thread for a complete example. Not sure how many channels his dimmer supports now but in any case you could use a Mega and avoid dealing with the typical scarcity of (digital and pwm) pins on the arduino uno.

 

[Airwalker16]

Using an arduino for dimming and timer is barely any more difficult than what you built already, nice job. Main thing to keep in mind is that with 8 drivers you need 8 pwm channels/pins, while the popular arduino Uno has 6 by default. So you would need an arduino Mega (has more input/ouput pins including 15 pwm) or a pwm shield (shields physically stack on the arduino). If you want the arduino to be able to turn on/off individual drivers, you could use a relay like this: http://www.icstation.com/channel-relay-module-with-optocoupler-level-triger-p-3422.html (which then requires 8 pins on the arduino, not including + and gnd ). You can then still use the pots, but also connected to the arduino, requires again 8 pins/wires. Then, unless you're ok with hooking up a laptop to change the timer, you need a display (various widely available, requires 5-8 pins) and some means of input, like buttons or IR remote (less wires).

E.g. Get this one:
http://www.icstation.com/icstation-atmega2560-mega2560-board-compatible-arduino-p-3517.html
And for example this one:
http://www.icstation.com/channel-relay-module-shield-arduino-p-1706.html

Then read this one (just one of many examples)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Controlling-AC-light-using-Arduino-with-relay-modu/

Or, check aliexpress or ebay for starter sets with a mega, including breadboard for prototyping, dupont wires and usually sensors and other items to play around with. Try a few of the basic tutorials at instructables.com or adafruit or arduino site.

Like this cheap starter kit:
http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Mega-2560-Basic-Project-Starter-Kit-for-Arduino-UNO-R3-Mega328-Na/32650248830.html

Or, better, the following, includes display, relay, remote, real time clock module, and a whole bunch of other items for less than the cost of a genuine arduino mega by itself. Those chinese clones work fine especially for prototyping. Can always buy a genuine mega once you're done and keep the clone for other stuff or backup.
http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/100-new-mega-2560-r3-starter-kit-motor-servo-RFID-Ultrasonic-Ranging-relay-LCD-for-arduino/32231960669.html

I also highly recommend one of these:
http://nl.aliexpress.com/item/Newbrand-Prototyping-Prototype-Shield-ProtoShield-Mini-Breadboard-for-Arduino-Free-Shipping/32279103685.html
Besides the handy mini breadboard, you can eventually solder all connectors/connections to the shield instead of the arduino itself (so you can remove/replace the arduino easily by removing the shield).

And like I said in a previous post, check out VegasWinner's arduino on/off dimmer thread for a complete example. Not sure how many channels his dimmer supports now but in any case you could use a Mega and avoid dealing with the typical scarcity of (digital and pwm) pins on the arduino uno.

That was like reading French to me.

 

[Sativied]

That was like reading French to me.

 

[Airwalker16]

Okay....

 

[Acerman]

Citizen CLU058 (3x)
Cree 660-730nm
Meanwell HLG-185H-48A
LCP-35-700(x2) one for each bar

 

[Airwalker16]

View attachment 3764959


Citizen CLU058 (3x)
Cree 660-730nm
Meanwell HLG-185H-48A
LCP-35-700(x2) one for each bar

730nm (far red) really is used only for like 15 minutes after lights turn OFF. It'll be interesting to see what having them on all the time will do for you.

 

[bassman999]

Finally finished the lights, 300w cxb3070 3500k + 100w random epistar blurpleView attachment 3764691
Running at 1690w max
View attachment 3764694
But with cobs and mono's on separate dim-able circuits, for each light. This is with cobs dimmed fully and mono's maxed out.....................yes the mono's ARE some what random(I've been making this shit up as I go along and learn).
View attachment 3764692
The current power/control panel is temporary and still in the design/build stage. I've got some aluminium racking for mounting everything on to reduce heat and I've got some din rail mounted timers and a contacter which I was going to use, but having seen @Sativied 's control system, wouldn't mind learning something about arduino's......................or even better, someone spoon-feeding me what to do to digitally control those bad boy's

So each light draws about 420 watts roughly nice!
They look great!

 

[Acerman]

730nm (far red) really is used only for like 15 minutes after lights turn OFF. It'll be interesting to see what having them on all the time will do for you.

That is kind of where I'm at as well. This was my first light and I wanted to do a lot of experimenting to see what I like and doent like. When I figure out a template I am going to replicate it 6x for the whole setup. Going from all hps so I'm excited to see what will happen.

 

[Airwalker16]

That is kind of where I'm at as well. This was my first light and I wanted to do a lot of experimenting to see what I like and doent like. When I figure out a template I am going to replicate it 6x for the whole setup. Going from all hps so I'm excited to see what will happen.

Use 435nm blue and 630-660 red. Throw a few 3000/5000k white monos in there too for shits n giggles. Do a 2-1 ratio for reds to blues. That's what you want.

 

[Acerman]

Use 435nm blue and 630-660 red. Throw a few 3000/5000k white monos in there too for shits n giggles. Do a 2-1 ratio for reds to blues. That's what you want.

My next build will have all of the colors you recommend. There will be one light on each side of this one, so those will be more full spectrum.

 

[zzzzhailzzzz]

HLG-60H-36B + 2x CXB3590-0000-000N0HCD65E + 2x ARCTIC Alpine 11 PLUS CPU Cooler
Each CXB3590 6500K Color Rendering Index - CRI: 80 running 36 V @ 850 mA