DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

fearnoevil

Well-Known Member
Hello, so I'm a complete noob where this LED is concerned, I'm beginning to get a handle on it but still confused a bit when trying to order/match parts.
I'd like to build a small 4-COB unit, 5000K CCT, using (possibly) this:

CitiLED CLU046-1812C1-503M2G2 5000K COB LED Version 4 CRI 80+ Drive Current (1080 - 2760)mA, 54V typ, LES 22mm; Cost $20.08 each

If those COBs are a good choice, would this driver work?

MeanWell HLG-240H-15B LED Driver (CC, CV) 225W 15A Linear (7.5-15Vdc) 90-305Vac PFC PWM, Resistance, 0-10V Dimming IP67 Metal Enclosure; Cost $67.50

The site is cdiweb.com, and they have hundreds of drivers it seems, hard to use the drop down menu to get to what I think I need, so any input would be a big help ;?)
 

Victor6634

Well-Known Member
Hello, so I'm a complete noob where this LED is concerned, I'm beginning to get a handle on it but still confused a bit when trying to order/match parts.
I'd like to build a small 4-COB unit, 5000K CCT, using (possibly) this:

CitiLED CLU046-1812C1-503M2G2 5000K COB LED Version 4 CRI 80+ Drive Current (1080 - 2760)mA, 54V typ, LES 22mm; Cost $20.08 each

If those COBs are a good choice, would this driver work?

MeanWell HLG-240H-15B LED Driver (CC, CV) 225W 15A Linear (7.5-15Vdc) 90-305Vac PFC PWM, Resistance, 0-10V Dimming IP67 Metal Enclosure; Cost $67.50

The site is cdiweb.com, and they have hundreds of drivers it seems, hard to use the drop down menu to get to what I think I need, so any input would be a big help ;?)

you can get better prices fom cobkits.com for same cob he also has everything there you need
 

fearnoevil

Well-Known Member
The driver needs to output atleast 54v to work with that COB.
That's where I'm finding it hard to glean the info. Does HLG-240H-15B mean that it's a 240-250v @15a/15,000mA and I forget what the B stands for (of the types A-D I thought I wanted B, is that right?).
 

fearnoevil

Well-Known Member
THere's just too many variables/options listed on this site, it all starts to look like Chinese to me, lol. I wish there was some kind of simplified spread sheet where you could plug in the numbers you want and it would spit out a kit that had all the parts you need ;?D
 

fearnoevil

Well-Known Member
you can get better prices fom cobkits.com for same cob he also has everything there you need
Well I checked there and cannot find this particular COB, nor any in the 5000K range, although a couple of their higher end units, like the 1825, jump from 4000K to 6500K, but they're twice as expensive and I really want one in the 5000K optical frequency.
 

fearnoevil

Well-Known Member
Also I'm having a hard time finding what these stand for:

Version#
Bin
CRI (70/80/90 ???)
PFC PWM, Resistance

And are they important, or should I just stick to looking at just the main numbers? Yeah, this is literally making me dizzy, lol, just can't wrap my head around some of this (it really is harder for old dogs to learn new tricks ;?).
 

nevergoodenuf

Well-Known Member
The 240, means it's a 240 watt driver ( closer to 250 watts). The 15, is the max volt out. Like I pointed out before, you around 54 volts out. The B means you can have remote dimming, and is preferred.
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
Does anyone know the Forward Voltages of Cree 36V CXB3590s @1050ma?

The Cree datasheet only lists it down to 1400ma (~34.8V) :http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/Cree/LED-Components-and-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/ds-CXB3590.pdf
(page 9)

I'd like to be able to calculate how many COBs I can power at 1050ma
Are you supposed to just extrapolate from the graph and guess?
The Cob calculator on the thread by the same name gives the fV of 33.85



CXB3590CD36V3500K 1 COBS @1.05A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
1 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @11 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 38.3
Cobs power watts: 36
Total voltage forward: 34
Total lumens: 7020
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 20
Total PPF: 93.0
PPFD based on canopy area: 1001.04
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 20.0
Cob efficiency: 61.5%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 36.0
Voltage forward per cob: 33.85
Lumens per watt: 195.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 14
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.65 / Estimated
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 17 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 6 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $2.38
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $2.02
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $2.78
Cost per cob: $47.62
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $48
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $11
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $3
 

Redoctober

Well-Known Member
The Cob calculator on the thread by the same name gives the fV of 33.85



CXB3590CD36V3500K 1 COBS @1.05A ON 1.813 PROFILE HEATSINK
1 SQ.FT. CANOPY 94% EFFICIENT DRIVER @11 CENTS PER KWH
Total power watts at the wall: 38.3
Cobs power watts: 36
Total voltage forward: 34
Total lumens: 7020
Total PAR watts assuming 10% loss: 20
Total PPF: 93.0
PPFD based on canopy area: 1001.04
PAR watts per sq.ft.: 20.0
Cob efficiency: 61.5%
Power watts per sq.ft.: 36.0
Voltage forward per cob: 33.85
Lumens per watt: 195.0
Heatsink riser thickness / number of fins / fin's length: 0.3in/6/0.95in
Heatsink area per inch: 100.94 cm^2
Total heat watts: 14
umol/s/W / CRI: 4.65 / Estimated
Heatsink length passive cooling @120cm^2/heatwatt: 17 inches
Heatsink length active cooling @40cm^2/heatwatt: 6 inches
COB cost dollar per PAR watt: $2.38
Electric cost @12/12 in 30 days: $2.02
Electric cost @18/6 in 30 days: $2.78
Cost per cob: $47.62
Heatsink cost per inch cut: $0.66
Total cobs cost: $48
Total heatsink passive cooling cost: $11
Total heatsink active cooling cost: $3
Now that's some good data! Awesome @coreywebster, much Appreciated!!
Also thanks @bggrass for making the calculator!
I'll have to make a dropbox account so I can download it
 

justsmokedope

Well-Known Member
any one know how many max ma you can actualy run a Cree XPEPHR-L1-0000-00901 it says 1000ma but on the cree horticultural reff design they are using 1050ma drivers ? so is it infact more than 1000ma
 

furalle

Active Member
Hello.

Im planning on building a light for 4x4 using 12 vero29 4000k@700ma. I hope Its sufficent light with less problem with lightbleach and I can have them about 20" from canopy.

Can I can run them on 1 Meanwell hlg-320-c700b? My main concern is the solderless connectors (pico ez-mate)that are rated at 130v max, ecept for that they seem to fit that driver.

If anyone knows better driving options, plus feel free to post other ideas.
 

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Hello.

Im planning on building a light for 4x4 using 12 vero29 4000k@700ma. I hope Its sufficent light with less problem with lightbleach and I can have them about 20" from canopy.

Can I can run them on 1 Meanwell hlg-320-c700b? My main concern is the solderless connectors (pico ez-mate)that are rated at 130v max, ecept for that they seem to fit that driver.

If anyone knows better driving options, plus feel free to post other ideas.
You'll actually need 2 hlg-320h-c1400b to get 600w of led. 320s are only 300w not 600w
 
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furalle

Active Member
You'll actually need 2 hlg-320h-c1400b to get 600w of led. 320s are only 300w not 600w
Yes but @ 0.7amps Its 300w and the voltage fits. But my ez-mate connectors seem weak, only 130v, but I wonder if that is a problem at that low current. I could solder them but I guess Its a better choice to use 2 driver and the ez-mate connectors.

I dont like to run them at 1.4 since Its so easy to burn. With 300w I can have light closer, but maybe Its too little? Its seems pretty easy to burn with 1050ma too?. I will use 3 heatsinks, 36" long.
 

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Yes but @ 0.7amps Its 300w and the voltage fits. But my ez-mate connectors seem weak, only 130v, but I wonder if that is a problem at that low current. I could solder them but I guess Its a better choice to use 2 driver and the ez-mate connectors.

I dont like to run them at 1.4 since Its so easy to burn. With 300w I can have light closer, but maybe Its too little? Its seems pretty easy to burn with 1050ma too?. I will use 3 heatsinks, 36" long.
First off how close will the light be from the plants? Secondly soldering will be the best way to go but just be careful not to overheat the cobs. Thirdly why not use pin heat sinks and angle aluminum? They are cheaper in the long run and they are passive.
 

furalle

Active Member
First off how close will the light be from the plants? Secondly soldering will be the best way to go but just be careful not to overheat the cobs. Thirdly why not use pin heat sinks and angle aluminum? They are cheaper in the long run and they are passive.
Around 15" from plants.Yeah I really dont like soldering and I already got the connectors.

Its says this in datsheet for ezmate:
Voltage (max.): 130V
Current (max.): 2.8A‡
Contact Resistance: 20 milliohms
Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 500V
AC Insulation Resistance: 100 Megohms
‡ Pending final testing and qualification of harness assembly; improved voltage result expected.

My guess is that they can handle it?


I got a decent deal on 3 black anoidized heatsinks, 225 euro with shipping. I dont think the pin heatsinks will be so much cheaper? And the grill one is looking better I think. 4 cobs on a bar at 700ma can run passively? If not I just add a 140mm fan.
 
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REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Around 15" from plants.Yeah I really dont like soldering and I already got the connectors.

Its says this in datsheet for ezmate:
Voltage (max.): 130V
Current (max.): 2.8A‡
Contact Resistance: 20 milliohms
Dielectric Withstanding Voltage: 500V
AC Insulation Resistance: 100 Megohms
‡ Pending final testing and qualification of harness assembly; improved voltage result expected.

My guess is that they can handle it?


I got a decent deal on 3 black anoidized heatsinks, 225 euro with shipping. I dont think the pin heatsinks will be so much cheaper? And the grill one is looking better I think. 4 cobs on a bar at 700ma can run passively? If not I just add a 140mm fan.
Damn Kingbrite would have been great for the heat sinks and would be predrilled and tapped for Vero. Easy peasy lol And the current you are using @ 1050ma will be well suited for passive cooling.
 

furalle

Active Member
Damn Kingbrite would have been great for the heat sinks and would be predrilled and tapped for Vero. Easy peasy lol And the current you are using @ 1050ma will be well suited for passive cooling.
Im gonna check it out havent ordered them yet. Can vero 29s fit on all kingbrite pinsinks? its says 3590 on most of them on alibaba page.

The shipping from China or USA must be a pain in the ass compared to within EU as I got on the bar heatsinks. By boat is cheap but takes forever.
 
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