Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!
- Thread starter TimeToBurn
- Start date
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
baby steps kitty, don't want you to get zapped from the tech you've been trolling on for 5+ yrs......................Yes cause wiring is such a complex task it leads to bigger egos and led expertise...Your predictable, petty and pathetic personal attack only makes it more enjoyable. And I haven't even posted the bottom side yet. Apart from the enclosure and 22 watts more leds it's already up and running for nearly a month fool. The only thing that needs rewiring is your butthurt feeble brain, get over yourself...
On a more relevant note, anyone have suggestions where to get the enclosure pieces fabricated? Only need one set. I'm considering 3D printed + spray putty + car paint + a few layers of varnish for the top pieces, to keep it lightweight yet give it a metalic look. Or just alu sheeting,
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Yeah I got the "joke" the first time, expected some hurt butts to piss sure, dead wishes... well, nothing surprises me anymore here. Doesn't get funny or less misplaced than it was the first time though. I get it, connecting leds is the most complicated thing you've done, the foundation of your ego, led expertise and the nonsense you posted for years. I am sure I can find multiple posts over the past 2 years where I made the same observation. While I was trolling bullshitters like you, led-extremists not capable of having a discussion based on facts turned that into a level they can grasp... "anti-led"... It's all in your head, try getting it zapped by professionals.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Bad ass. Is that far reds on the 2 diodes on each arm?
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
Growmau5 called, wants his design back..............not that you will finish it anyways, just like Doer
thermal management looks "killer" too............maybe you should ask some of the vet builders in here for help?, oh wait, you insulted them all; bummer.
good luck on your xbox
thermal management looks "killer" too............maybe you should ask some of the vet builders in here for help?, oh wait, you insulted them all; bummer.
good luck on your xbox
Sativied
Well-Known Member
You sure are slow aren't you. Again, it's already up and running for a month and finished, for a while anyway, apart from a few finishing touches and the enclosure. There's an earlier version in this thread... plenty of pics of the results so far too. I'd be cranky too if I fucked up my grow like you, but your misplaced associations with any "design" or Doer is just desperate... It's the inevitable result of having 4 alpine, 2.5 meter aluminium and a 90x90mm junction box. It's starting to get obvious why you have a hard time growing cannabis so don't waste any time trying to figure that one out.
Vets... on thermal management. Wow... are there no limits to your delusions. I should rub your face into a fancy simulation using the same sofware cree does.... like I did for Doer's, but then I actually measure the heatsink temp, it is displayed on the builtin lcd, and logged every minute.
Obviously with an enclosure it needs a few openings. The images are not a design, it's a 3d model of my light... I do appreciate the Xbox comment. And you haven't even seen the usb connection and flash card drive yet
Sativied
Well-Known Member
All reds including on the module are osram ssl 120 660nm. 3x royal blue on the module too, mostly just because they happened to be there. I wanted to go for 4x4 red in center first, on a pcb with a wide optic, something like in the cree ref design, but this one (from led-tech.de) fits nicely. May be able to add an optic someday. Don't actually have lenses on the cobs (citizen 2700k 90 cri) either, are in bjb holders.
This is very rough especially because it doesn't support the cri 90 and citizens 2700k but monos:
Combined:
That small hump at 610 is at 625-630 instead.
All but module dimmed to ~50%.
This allows me to add more BR in the future and push that 510-600 area lower while increasing intensity and efficiency.
It's a shame they don't make these anymore, company is gone, old amd cpu heatsink. 60x60mm, plenty of room for a cob. Going to use it for the module.
sixstring2112
Well-Known Member
what are you using for all these 3d drawings/renderings ? pretty coolDrilled and tapped the heatsink View attachment 3775835
Testing... need to get screws with flatter head.View attachment 3775834
Quite bright at 22 watts (running at 700ma).View attachment 3775836
Going to take the light down tonight and replace with hps temporarily. Need to remove and probably move the junction box (off center).
PSUAGRO.
Well-Known Member
You sure are slow aren't you. Again, it's already up and running for a month and finished, for a while anyway, apart from a few finishing touches and the enclosure. There's an earlier version in this thread... plenty of pics of the results so far too. I'd be cranky too if I fucked up my grow like you, but your misplaced associations with any "design" or Doer is just desperate... It's the inevitable result of having 4 alpine, 2.5 meter aluminium and a 90x90mm junction box. It's starting to get obvious why you have a hard time growing cannabis so don't waste any time trying to figure that one out.
Vets... on thermal management. Wow... are there no limits to your delusions. I should rub your face into a fancy simulation using the same sofware cree does.... like I did for Doer's, but then I actually measure the heatsink temp, it is displayed on the builtin lcd, and logged every minute.
I do appreciate the Xbox comment. And you haven't even seen the usb connection and flash card drive yet
I'm just happy you finally upgraded from the mag ballast!.......lol...............good luck on your build
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Well, what I use for the renderings is not for consumers but https://www.blender.org is a good cheap alternative. Or, free, http://www.wings3d.com.
Wrong again cry baby, did that early this year already lol. Those mag ballasts were put to better use than you have done with any light. You are only upsetting yourself more with your desperate and delusional comments, hps hater.
DIY-HP-LED
Well-Known Member
NEW WATER COOLED DESIGNS
It's been awhile since I've posted anything here, but I've been busy building lights, growing and learning. My light designs have gone through a couple of generations and I've recently completed a large air cooled light (500 actual watts) with a flow through design and ducting to remove heat. I wasn't satisfied with the result, so I dropped plans for a larger 4' long version. I'm using over 1000 watts in a regular sized room and the heat build up is too much and air cooling the LED lights wasn't working out too well. So I decided to try a radically different approach, water cooling. I think I might start a new thread on this subject since I figure it deserves more attention. I've got a couple of economical designs in the works that should prove very interesting to any DIY grow light builder.
A few days ago I made a prototype light to test a few ideas and shatter some assumptions. The ease of building, cost and efficiency, convinced me that this is the way to go for anybody who wants to put lots of LED power into a small space with no increase in heat. Your carbon filter and blower are for reducing odor, not cooling your lights, with water cooling you can reduce your blower speed to a fraction. A sealed room and CO2 enrichment is easily possible with water cooling and the only noise you'll hear is the sound of an oscillating fan.
The most common arguments against water cooling are: expense, difficulty and it's not necessary for most small growers. What if I told you that you could build a water cooled light bar cheaper than you could build the equivalent LED grow light on a heatsink and for less bother and with no screw tapping. If your LED junctions run at 80 C with air cooling, then with ambient temperature water cooling (24 C) they will run at 35 to 40 C, cool the water down to 15 C and your juction temps will be in the 25 C range. This means your COBs will last over 200,000 hrs with very little diminishment over time, you can drive them harder, they will produce more light, especially the reds and use less power. Even Cree and Vero fans will find this useful, since if yer paying hundreds or thousands of bucks for COBs you'll want the best possible cooling, and water is it. Stick around and I'll post some pictures, plans, builds, data, ideas and info sources on economically water cooling COBs. All the materials for a water cooling system can be obtained locally and are cheap, the only tools required are an electric drill and a 3/8 drill bit.
More info on my thread of builds in progress.
It's been awhile since I've posted anything here, but I've been busy building lights, growing and learning. My light designs have gone through a couple of generations and I've recently completed a large air cooled light (500 actual watts) with a flow through design and ducting to remove heat. I wasn't satisfied with the result, so I dropped plans for a larger 4' long version. I'm using over 1000 watts in a regular sized room and the heat build up is too much and air cooling the LED lights wasn't working out too well. So I decided to try a radically different approach, water cooling. I think I might start a new thread on this subject since I figure it deserves more attention. I've got a couple of economical designs in the works that should prove very interesting to any DIY grow light builder.
A few days ago I made a prototype light to test a few ideas and shatter some assumptions. The ease of building, cost and efficiency, convinced me that this is the way to go for anybody who wants to put lots of LED power into a small space with no increase in heat. Your carbon filter and blower are for reducing odor, not cooling your lights, with water cooling you can reduce your blower speed to a fraction. A sealed room and CO2 enrichment is easily possible with water cooling and the only noise you'll hear is the sound of an oscillating fan.
The most common arguments against water cooling are: expense, difficulty and it's not necessary for most small growers. What if I told you that you could build a water cooled light bar cheaper than you could build the equivalent LED grow light on a heatsink and for less bother and with no screw tapping. If your LED junctions run at 80 C with air cooling, then with ambient temperature water cooling (24 C) they will run at 35 to 40 C, cool the water down to 15 C and your juction temps will be in the 25 C range. This means your COBs will last over 200,000 hrs with very little diminishment over time, you can drive them harder, they will produce more light, especially the reds and use less power. Even Cree and Vero fans will find this useful, since if yer paying hundreds or thousands of bucks for COBs you'll want the best possible cooling, and water is it. Stick around and I'll post some pictures, plans, builds, data, ideas and info sources on economically water cooling COBs. All the materials for a water cooling system can be obtained locally and are cheap, the only tools required are an electric drill and a 3/8 drill bit.
More info on my thread of builds in progress.
safety meeting
Active Member
Sexy, what size is your space?
Im trying to fill a 4x2. Any suggestions....thank you!
Evil-Mobo
Well-Known Member
This went into a 3x3, for your space I would do the same build but make it a bar style light instead.Sexy, what size is your space?
Im trying to fill a 4x2. Any suggestions....thank you!
DIY-HP-LED
Well-Known Member
Nice job and a good looking light. A little ceiling fan above the rig set on low like Growmau uses to create a little air flow, and the thermal efficiency of the pin heatsinks will greatly increase and yer COB junction temps will decrease. Yer gonna have an oscillating fan in the grow anyway for air circulation and plant health.
Mad&Weed
Well-Known Member
high Sativied,Drilled and tapped the heatsink View attachment 3775835
Testing... need to get screws with flatter head.View attachment 3775834
Quite bright at 22 watts (running at 700ma).View attachment 3775836
Going to take the light down tonight and replace with hps temporarily. Need to remove and probably move the junction box (off center).
very nice design!
respect & well done...
so do you really need the Osram SSL 120?
It looks like a great addition to the cob's... but is it effective by the distance to the plants?
can you tell me what driver you use for the SSL... Meanwell xxxx
i'm also interested in the Androino setup...
that makes it perfect to me...
Do you think that the platform is stable enough to run 360day's without issues?
i will use this setup:
4x CXB3590(CREE CXB3590 3500K/35G/CD/80Ra/36V )
1x MW driver HLG-185H-C1400 type B
@ Evil-Mobo
also well done!
why you use the expensive driver?
many many thx great thread!
M.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Most small chips are run at 700ma 90% of the time. So any meanwell hlg-***h-c700.
Mad&Weed
Well-Known Member
thank you!